Glover Park’s Best-Kept Dining Secret
By • January 21, 2021 0 1310
A soaring, spacious, weather-protected, heated outdoor terrace offering hearty comfort fare and freshly baked specialties crafted by top talents, Glover Park Grill — located at 2505 Wisconsin Ave. NW in the Glover Park Hotel — may be the neighborhood’s best kept secret.
Chef Hamilton Johnson’s kitchen smarts, honed at Vidalia and other former hot spots, are displayed in clever takes on all-American classics. His cheese steak features slow-braised short ribs that are crisped, caramelized and smothered in melting indulgence. Shrimp and grits focus on fire-roasted crustaceans in a buttery shellfish broth. Fried chicken sandwiches are equally indulgent, dressed with jalapeño honey and chipotle aioli. Salads, pastas, pizza and entrees like roast chicken and steak frites fill out the family-friendly menu.
Chef Alex Levin’s pastry talents shine in the all-day café, where house-made bagels and croissants pair with coffee drinks from 8 a.m. until 5 p.m. His chewy bagels, made with malt, are some of the most authentic in D.C. Levin prides himself on his chocolate chip cookies, rich with dark chocolate and the product of serious caramelization. His goal, he explained, is a “chewy center and a crisp outside.” He’s also proud of the crunchy texture of his peanut butter cookies. Brownies, muffins and options like granola and avocado toast are offered all day.
Dinner desserts like tiramisu and apple crisp also testify to Levin’s ability to make classic recipes soar. Together, Johnson and Levin take American comfort food to a high level.
The sweeping outdoor terrace offers an airy setting, protected from winter chills. Few, if any, D.C. streateries offer such roomy space. What’s more, it’s dog-friendly and child-friendly. Wine, beer and well-priced cocktails are offered at dinner. Takeout is popular as well.
