Cocktail of the Month: The Musso & Frank Martini
By • May 14, 2025 0 358
The 2019 film “Once Upon a Time … in Hollywood” — often called Quentin Tarantino’s love letter to L.A. — is set in 1969, a time of transition from old-school glamour to the birth of a new era of cinema.
In one of the opening scenes, fading TV star Rick Dalton (Leonardo DiCaprio) and agent Marvin Schwarz (Al Pacino) discuss Dalton’s starring in Italian “spaghetti Westerns.” Their meeting takes place at the Musso & Frank Grill, which bills itself as the oldest restaurant in Hollywood (Tarantino and Pacino are rumored to be regulars).
During its 100-plus years, the legendary lounge has hosted numerous celebrities, from movie stars like Douglas Fairbanks, Humphrey Bogart and Marilyn Monroe to illustrious writers like F. Scott Fitzgerald and Charles Bukowski. It’s said that Monroe loved to sit in the front, where she could be seen by those entering. Others have theorized that Bogart’s cigar smoke seeped into the wallpaper and is still there.
Early on, Charlie Chaplin would hold horse races from his studio down the street (the loser had to pick up the tab), then keep an eye on the horses, tied up outside, from the only booth with a window. To this day the “Charlie Chaplin booth” is the most requested table.
Whether you sit in one of the dark-leather banquettes, where you’re served by waiters in classic red tuxedo jackets, or perch yourself on one of the barstools, where many famous stars sat (and probably fell off), you can feel the energy of those who have been here before.
On the drinks side, the restaurant is famed for its martini. Stirred and served with a sidecar on chilled ice, it was named one of the 20 best cocktails in America by GQ.
(Yes, James Bond had it all wrong. Martinis — or any other drinks forged from pure spirits — should be stirred. Shaking incorporates too much ice, making for a watery drink.)
The other aspect that sets a Musso & Frank martini aside is the absence of vermouth, creating an icy cold, silky smooth texture. To keep your tipple at the perfect temperature, it’s served in a small (2½ ounce) glass, with the carryover in a small pitcher set in crushed ice. This allows the drink to stay frigid until you’re ready for a refill.
Last December, while visiting L.A., my friend Jonathan and I decided to step back in time. On our first try, we arrived about a half-hour after opening; it was four people deep at the bar. The second day, we arrived right on time and got the last seat available. Dinner reservations are booked out weeks in advance.
The joint oozed ambiance. It felt classy and authentic compared to the strip of Hollywood Boulevard outside, lined with souvenir shops and tattoo studios. Jonathan opted for a whiskey sour (coincidentally the same drink DiCaprio ordered in the movie), while I went straight for the hard stuff. The impeccably groomed bartender asked if I wanted gin or vodka, suggesting Grey Goose.
My petite glass arrived with two giant house-cured olives and alongside a cute carafe. I eagerly took my first sip, which tasted svelte and sublime. Its frosty temperature masked the powerful kick of pure spirits. As I languidly drained my glass, Jonathan continued to replenish it from the icy reserve. It tasted more like a refreshing swig from a fresh mountain stream than straight booze, an ideal accompaniment for the raw oysters we snacked on.
As I slowly drained my decanter, I soaked up the environs and thought about the others who had dreamed and drank here over the past century. For that brief time, we felt — and were treated like — showbiz VIPs.
The Musso & Frank Martini
2½ oz. vodka or gin
2 pimiento olives on a toothpick
Stir vodka or gin in an ice-filled shaker. Strain over olives in a petite martini glass.
