Pépin’s Way 

Sébastien Giannini of L’Avant-Garde Joins Fellow Chefs to Celebrate Jacques Pépin’s 90th Birthday 

D.C. Restaurants Host 90th Birthday Dinners for Jacques Pépin 

Yearlong Celebration Benefits Culinary Education Programs 

For many Americans the biggest name in French cooking, Jacques Pépin will turn 90 on Dec. 18. To mark the occasion, celebrate the man and support his namesake foundation, a nationwide parade of chefs, restaurateurs, culinary leaders, food influencers and home cooks are hosting virtual and in-person events during the entirety of 2025, including right here in Washington, D.C. 

Founded in 2016 by Pépin, his daughter Claudine and his son-in-law Rollie Wesen, the Jacques Pépin Foundation is dedicated to supporting culinary education, especially for those in underserved communities. 

Revered for his avuncular television persona, Pépin, who served as personal chef to French President Charles de Gaulle, made culinary waves cooking with bestie Julia Child and racking up an astounding 16 James Beard Awards. His countless media appearances and two dozen-plus cookbooks — along with the work of the Jacques Pépin Foundation — have added up to a lifetime of impact.  

Central to this year’s celebration is the 90/90 Dinner Series, launched on Oct. 6, 2024, at New York’s Gramercy Tavern. Pépin has said that he is “gratified by the restaurants that we’ve had partner, with chefs all over the country.”  

D.C.’s first 90/90 event took place in Georgetown on March 20 at contemporary French brasserie L’Avant-Garde, located at 2915 M St. NW — a logical spot given the restaurant’s roots and chef-partner Sébastien Giannini’s Gallic pride.   

A native of the French Riviera, Giannini was born in the sun-drenched port city of Toulon. His lifelong passion for cooking took him to the kitchens of Michelin-starred restaurants in the region. Moving to D.C., he held executive chef roles at the St. Regis, Watergate and Four Seasons hotels. In 2024, he ascended to helm L’Avant-Garde, bringing with him a Riviera-inspired culinary identity rooted in seasonal produce.  

At the 90/90 dinner, Giannini presented five courses of French classics with a modern twist. Leaving diners slack-jawed, the menu celebrated Pépin’s legacy with such dishes as lobster and chicken vol-au-vent and duck à l’orange.  

Giannini also embodies Pépin’s spirit by acting as East Coast president of Les Disciples d’Escoffier, an organization that helps rising culinary talents prepare for a career in the industry. He first met Pépin in 2019 for a dinner at which they joined forces at the Watergate Hotel.  

“I really enjoyed cooking with him and appreciated how kind and generous he was. He gave me some great advice,” says Giannini. “When the JPF team reached out to me I did not hesitate.” He adds: “Pepin is a living encyclopedia. He knows every single product, every recipe that he’s ever made. He is about classic French cooking, leaving a legacy of simple, elegant food.” 

As for the dinner, “The event sold out very quickly and the ambiance in the restaurant was very special. It felt like a big dinner party with friends, all gathered around an extraordinary meal for a good cause.”  

“There is a great community in Georgetown,” notes Giannini, commenting on the neighborhood’s European feel: “You can stroll along the streets to go shopping and stop at a café for a nice meal or glass of wine.”  

Giannini recently connected with the celebrated chef at Pépin’s farm in Madison on the Connecticut shoreline. Their families frolicked on the lawns and played pétanque, a French counterpart to bocce.  

Following the Georgetown foray at L’Avant-Garde, the District’s 90/90 celebrations continued on April 27, moving to Amy Brandwein’s Centrolina, located at 974 Palmer Alley NW in CityCenterDC. Then, on May 12, the Square, the West End’s newish food hall at 1850 K St. NW, was the site of a unique dine-around experience. At that dinner, anchored by the Casa Teresa restaurant, chefs popped up at various stalls to prepare and serve dishes inspired by Pépin’s recipes.  

“Pépin has been a guiding light for so many of us in the kitchen,” said chef Rubén García of Casa Teresa. “His dedication to craft, teaching and the joy of cooking has shaped generations of chefs. It’s an honor to celebrate his 90th birthday by bringing our culinary community together and supporting the next generation through the Jacques Pépin Foundation.”  

The final D.C. dinner will take place at Fabio Trabocchi’s Fiola DC, located at 601 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, on May 20.  

In addition to the chef-hosted dinners, anyone can step up to support the foundation’s work by hosting a Home Cook Celebration. As described on the Celebrate Jacques website: “Create a menu inspired by your favorite recipes from Jacques or make it easy and host a potluck or a picnic.”  

Over the years, Pépin has had many connections to the nation’s capital. Last October, he was in D.C. for the 10th annual Smithsonian Food History Weekend at the National Museum of American History. At the event, cookbook author Joan Nathan presented restaurateur Alice Waters with the Julia Child Award. Also active as an artist, Pépin, the award’s first recipient, hand-painted the menu card.   

In 2011, the chef visited the Obama White House for the Easter Egg Roll. In a breezy tent, alongside his daughter and grandchild — and under the admiring gaze of journalists Kelly Ripa and Al Roker — Pépin prepared delicate French crepes with berries and vegetables sourced from Michelle Obama’s garden. Toward the end of the cooking demo, the first lady joined in, marvelling at Pépin’s deft pan-handling. “This is good stuff,” she joked.  

The Giannini family — Sébastien and Anina Belle Giannini and their children Pierre and Valentina — with Jacques Pépin at his home in Madison, Connecticut. Photo by Tom Hopkins.

During the visit, Pépin caused a bit of controversy. Heading into the White House for a photo session after the cooking demo, his personal security lost him, prompting a lockdown by White House security to locate the culinary star.  

Previously, Pépin — who famously turned down an offer to cook for President John F. and Jacqueline Kennedy — had visited the White House during the George W. Bush administration, spending time with first lady Laura Bush.  

Pépin also counts Patrick O’Connell of Virginia’s Inn at Little Washington as a friend; they have known one other for more than 30 years. In 2014, he stopped by the inn to inspect a suite named for him and featuring his artwork. Pépin also visited the inn in 2023 on his book tour for “Art of the Chicken: A Master Chef’s Paintings, Stories and Recipes of the Humble Bird,” an event that included an exhibition of Pépin’s paintings and a four-course menu inspired by the book.   

As the 90/90 campaign noshes through the rest of the year at restaurants across the U.S., it fortifies the foundation’s goals: to preserve, protect and promote Pépin’s legacy; and to empower people facing barriers to employment through its culinary education initiatives, including the Community Kitchens Support program. 

“These parties are really special and show just how generous chefs are with their time. I’m very touched by what everyone is doing,” says Pépin.  

tagsChef Sébastien GianniniJacques PépinL'Avant GardeL'Avant-Garde DCSebastien Giannini