Our Once and Future Oyster Capital

June 29, 2012

Eating an oyster is like putting the history of mankind on your tongue. Within its fluted shell, a single bivalve holds chronicles of gastronomy, culture, mythology, religion, evolution, royalty, geography and love. That and a bit of seawater.

“The Delmarva region is the keeper of much of North America’s oyster history,” says chef and restaurateur Ris Lacoste, whose restaurant in Foggy Bottom now offers fresh local oysters on the half shell throughout the weekend. A century ago, she reminds us, there were more than 150 oyster bars in the District, and the Chesapeake Bay was the largest oyster-producing area in North America. Washington was an oyster mecca.

However, because of massive overfishing, over-industrialization and disease, the Chesapeake oyster population had dwindled to about 1 percent of its population from the late 19th century, and Washington area oyster culture was nearly lost. Thankfully, due to population restoration efforts, the bay is once again home to around 180 million native oysters, and populations are on the upswing. With the help of devoted and knowledgeable oyster farmers, the history, abundance and flavor of Chesapeake oysters are once again filtering back into our culinary consciousness. The oysters that are now being farmed here are milder in complexity than their more northern cousins but wonderfully plump and meaty – perfect as they are, as well as in recipes that call for cooked oysters.

“The trick with an oyster’s flavor profile is where it lives in the water,” says Jed Foxx, sous chef and resident oyster authority at RIS. “If it lives in the ocean, it’s going to be salty. If it lives in a nutrient-rich environment, it’s going to grow fat quicker. If it’s surrounded by seaweed, it will pick up those flavors. There are almost infinite factors.”

Chesapeake Bay oysters typically come from fresher water, so they tend to have less salinity than those from other regions. “That’s an issue some people often have with them: less flavor,” says Jed. “But there’s more to look for in the flavor than how briny it is. Bay oysters can be delicious on the half-shell, but their milder, delicate flavors — sometimes woody, with hints of cucumber and sweetness — are great for cooking. You wouldn’t want to dump a cup of ocean water in your seafood stew. You just want that sweet oyster flavor.”

The other great pleasure with oysters, as we all know, is pairing them with choice libation. “Ideally, you are looking for something light, crisp and cleansing, with good minerality — qualities that compliment the flavor of oysters,” says Leah Cheston, wine director at RIS. “Rich and oversaturated drinks tend to muddle them.”

For wines, Leah recommends a good Chablis, Muscadet or Champagne. But the Chablis, which comes from the very north of Burgundy, is her favorite pairing. “The wines from that area have the natural richness of a good Chardonnay with crisp acidity and a flinty quality from the soil.” The Simonnet-Febvre is her personal pick, which is available by the glass at the restaurant.

For a beer selection, you may also be looking for lightness and crisp texture. A German Kolsch, for instance, fits this profile, with a clean yeastiness like fresh baked white bread that compliments the cool freshness of an oyster. Schlaffy’s Reissdorf, a German brew, does this expertly.

Then there’s the dry Irish stout. “Something magical happens when you mix an Irish stout with an oyster,” Leah says. “You’ve heard of an ‘oyster stout’ — that’s not an accident. It’s because they go so well together.” A stout is the fresh cracked pepper to the salt of the oyster, she explains. The contrast is remarkable. Bell’s, Murphy’s, Beamish and, of course, Guinness, all make fine stouts that pair well with oysters.

Buying Local

While there are some phenomenal oyster bars in the city — Pearl Dive, Kinkead’s, Hank’s Oyster Bar and the historic Old Ebbitt Grill are favorites of Ris and Jed — there are also great places to pick up oysters to shuck in the comfort of your home kitchen. (For a how-to shucking tutorial and a flat-out great guide to oysters of the world, pick up a copy of “Consider the Oyster,” by world champion oyster shucker Patrick McMurray. “The Big Oyster” by Mark Kurlansky, and “A Geography of Oysters” by Rowan Jacobson are also good bets.)

Wagshal’s, on Massachusetts Ave., NW, has oysters in stock every day and can special order oysters from around the region. River Falls Seafood in Potomac, Md., and Cannons Fish Market in Georgetown are also good bets. At BlackSalt Fish Market & Restaurant in Georgetown, you can take oysters home or eat them at the bar.

”To cook with oysters, you need to be respectful of their natural flavors and be sure not to overcook them,” Ris says. “If you’re using them in seafood stew, don’t add them until the last couple of minutes. Let them retain their texture and flavors.”

Jed’s fried oysters are just the ticket. The corn-based masa flour is lighter and has brighter flavors than bread flours, matching texturally and palatably with something as delicate as an oyster. Use them to make a New Orleans-style po’ boy sandwich, oyster salad, or just stick ‘em with toothpicks and dip them in homemade tartar sauce. You can’t go wrong.??So go out there and enjoy some local oysters. And as you do, please thank all those involved in the restoration of the Chesapeake for their huge effort and dedication in bringing back this gift to us and to our waters.

Jed’s Masa-Fried Oysters with Homemade Tartar Sauce
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——

For the oysters

Fresh oysters, shucked, removed from shells, left in their liquid
Masa flour
Semolina flour, or cornmeal
Cayenne pepper (optional)
White pepper (optional)
Salt (see below)
Oil (canola, vegetable or peanut)
Lemon, cut into wedges

For the tartar sauce

Mayonnaise
Dill pickles or butter pickles, finely diced
Capers, chopped
White onion, finely diced
?A few drops of Tabasco sauce
?Squeeze of lemon
?Pinch of sugar
?Salt and pepper

Mix the mayonnaise with a balance of the ingredients to suit your palate, and salt and pepper to taste. Cover and store in the refrigerator until ready to use.

Season the masa flour with cayenne, white pepper, salt and other spices to taste. Arrange two platters, filling one with the seasoned masa and the other with the semolina. Remove oysters from liquid, lightly toss in the masa and then the semolina. If the oyster is smaller and less plump, delicately clump it into a loose ball with your hand to give it extra bulk so as not to overcook.

In a skillet or frying pan, heat a quarter inch of oil on medium high. When the oil is very hot, fry the oysters for about ten seconds or less on each side, depending on the size, using tongs to flip. Don’t put more oysters in the pan than you can reasonably deal with at one time. The process is fast and you need to stay in control to prevent overcooking.

When cooked, transfer to a paper towel on a plate and let rest for a minute. The insides of the oysters should still be raw and gooey, not cooked all the way through. Serve immediately with the tartar sauce.

Salt — Before adding salt to your seasoned masa flour, eat an oyster raw and consider its natural salinity. If the oyster is naturally salty enough, you don’t need to add more.

Raise a Cup for President Washington’s Whiskey Punch


Many presidents have gone on to have successful careers after leaving office. Jimmy Carter formed Habitat for Humanity and went on to become a global human rights campaigner and a recipient of the Nobel Peace Prize. William Howard Taft served as Chief Justice of the United States.  And Bill Clinton, in addition to his charitable works, spearheaded his wife’s presidential bid in 2008

This tradition dates back to our very first president, George Washington, who became a successful whiskey-maker after his presidency. According to Dennis Pogue, vice president for preservation at George Washington’s Mount Vernon Estate, our founding father operated one of the largest whiskey distilleries in 18th-century America.

Pogue, the author of “Founding Spirits,” a detailed portrayal of the origins of the American whiskey industry, including Washington’s role, was the featured speaker during a recent event hosted by the Museum of the American Cocktail. While Pogue described the intimate details of Washington’s whiskey-making business, guests were treated to a number of classic whiskey cocktails.

Washington began distilling spirits as a way to generate income in his retirement. After leaving office, Washington moved back to Mount Vernon where he hired James Anderson, a Scotsman, as plantation manager. Anderson suggested making whiskey from the grain grown in the plantation for profit. Washington was skeptical at first, but after writing to John Fitzgerald, a trusted friend who operated a rum distillery, he decided to give it a go. Whiskey making began in early 1797 and by October of that year, Washington was confident enough to expand the operation.

Washington’s whiskey, a raw un-aged spirit, sold for 60 cents per gallon. By 1799, Washington’s distillery was the single most profitable part of his plantation. It was sold mostly to his neighbors, while some of it was bartered for items such as candles, oysters and shoe leather.

At this time in history, alcohol consumption was quite common. Washington himself drank, and he and Martha served punch to guests on various occasions. Washington had what Pogue calls a very modern view of alcohol. Washington knew drinking was a part of life but also knew there were drawbacks. He was forced to fire number of important employees because they could not control their drinking. He had officers during the war that got in trouble for abusing alcohol.

The distillery continued to operate after Washington’s death but burned to ground in 1814 and never reopened.

What did Washington’s whiskey taste like? According to Pogue the spirit was made primarily from rye, which was the typical type of whiskey produced the time. Washington’s recipe called for 60 percent rye, 35 percent corn and 5 percent malted barley. It was not aged, like whiskeys are today, although Washington did drink Madeira wine and was aware of the effect aging had on improving the taste alcohol.  But whiskey that time was consumed with a primary purpose of getting drunk, and aging the spirit would require a greater investment and delay of revenue.

During the event the audience was presented with a glass of “American Whiskey Punch,” a recipe developed by cocktail historian David Wondrich, who is also a contributing scholar and member of the board of advisors of the Museum of the American Cocktail. The recipe, which highlights the spicy flavor of rye whiskey, follows a longstanding formula for punch which has been cemented in the rhyme, “One of Sour, Two of Sweet, Three of Strong, Four of Weak.”

While sipping on this classic concoction, I conjured up images of George and Martha Washington entertaining guests with their hand-made spirits at Mount Vernon. According to Derek Brown, of The Passenger and Columbia Room, punch was a popular libation during the 18th century.

Washington’s distillery and gristmill have been reconstructed and are open seasonally. The fully functioning sites are located just three miles from the Mount Vernon mansion. And in limited production, bottles of whiskey produced at the distillery are available for purchase from time to time.

Visitors may learn more about Washington’s whiskey production and purchase Dennis Pogue’s book at www.mountvernon.org For more information on informational cocktail seminars, visit MuseumOfTheAmericanCocktail.org

David Wondrich’s American Whiskey Punch
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Muddle one cup sugar with the peel of two lemons.
Add 4 oz. lemon juice and 8 oz. water until sugar is dissolved.
Add 16 oz. Wild Turkey Rye and 3 cups water.
Serve over large block of ice in punch bowl.
Garnish with lemon wheels.

Delicious Defined

June 27, 2012

Delicious (di-?li-sh?s) adj. 1. Highly pleasing or agreeable to the senses, esp. of taste or smell. 2. Very pleasant; delightful.

How would you define delicious? Perhaps the most ubiquitous word in the English language to denote appreciation of the culinary spectrum, delicious signifies our love for everything from a single exquisite bite to the grand flavors of a cultural heritage. From lemongrass to lemon ice, if it makes our tongues jump, “Delicious!” seems to say it all.

Jeffrey Buben
Chef/owner of Vidalia and Bistro Bis
To me, a lot of food is based on taste memory. So, when you get into the idea of delicious, it’s got to appeal to all your senses. Something delicious draws from your memory and imagination. It could be as simple as an apple. You know what an apple tastes like. But when you go to market and bite into that one apple with the right amount of sugar, ripeness and texture, you just go, “Wow, that’s delicious.” It brings together all your memories and ideas of what an apple is and it’s the best possible version of it. That is the culmination of all your senses, what your mind tells you it’s supposed to be like. The most satisfying sensation is when you hit that note.

That sense of memory is why I’ve stuck to the French European culinary tradition for most of my career. You can invent combos and put things together that shock the senses and put you in a place where all your preconceived notions are blown to hell, and that’s all good. But how often is that described as delicious?

But if you make a stew, or you braise something, and you do it perfectly, the whole world will come flooding into your mouth. That’s why you cook, and that’s why you eat. That feeling transcends all my other ideas around food. Boeuf bourguignon and a glass of red wine usually does it for me. It just takes over all of my senses [laughs].

Tracy O’Grady
Chef/co-owner of Willow Restaurant
I think that “delicious” food is part of what’s got us into the weight issue in this country [laughs]. Especially us chefs, all of us trying to make the most delicious burger, fries, whatever it is. And most of that deliciousness is added through fat and salt. Some people might define delicious as farm-fresh vegetables or farmer’s market produce. Others will define it as an amazing prime steak.

But I think it’s definitely the quality of the ingredient and how you handle it—chefs are always trying to add layers of flavors. But there’s a gray area between the ingredient and the cooking: I’ve seen people take really good product and ruin it. And I’ve seen people take not-so-great product to a new level.

But good, fresh ingredients are a must. As far as the idea of farm-to-table, it’s funny where we’ve come in our culture. At Willow, I don’t state where all my vegetables come from on my menu—it’s a given that if you come eat here, you get fresh herbs, fresh produce and the best cuts of meat. Of course, it’s fresh—getting choice produce is just part of my job.

When you come in, try our grilled flatbreads—we literally grill flatbread pizza on a grill. We do cheese blends and use great quality ingredients, of course. It’s just a vehicle for flavor and texture. It’s so simple, but you put any flavor profile on top, and it’s good. I have a lot of fun with that.

Roberto Donna
Executive chef of La Forchetta Ristorante
Delicious is any kind of food that you put in your mouth that makes you open your eyes and say, “Wow, that tastes good.” It’s something that gives you an immense sensation of happiness and joy. Delicious is equal to joy.

My mother had a grocery store when I was growing up in Turin [Italy], and my grandparents were vegetable gardeners. When they had something in their hands that was good to taste—a fresh vegetable or even a piece of bread—they would give it to me to bring me joy. When you taste something good, it makes you feel good. It’s all love: food is love. You eat with love, you drink with love, you grow and raise food with love. If you do it for different reasons, it never comes out good.

You know, if you cook while you’re in a good mood, the food comes out good. If you cook in a bad mood, the food is usually not so good. The food knows this. At my restaurant, we have a lasagnetta, which I think is a good example of my feelings on this. It’s a lasagne casserole that brings me back in my memories. It’s a Sunday dish we made with our family when we got together. It was the love my family had for each other—and now I share that with my dinner guests.

Mike Isabella
Chef/owner of Graffiato, chef/partner of Bandolero
Delicious is what naturally tastes good. Half of my job in serving good food is to buy good products. Maybe that just sounds lazy [laughs].

But that is my concept as a chef. But what do I like? I really just like simple, good food, and I try to bring that out in my menus. Graffiato has its roots in a sort of salt-of-the-earth, seasonal Italian tradition—very much inspired by an “old country” mentality, like my grandmother used to cook. We try to make big flavor happen without overdoing it—just bring out the ingredients as naturally and beautifully as we can.

At Bandolero, I’m after that same thing. Mexican cuisine is so good because the ingredients are just right there in your face—pumpkin seeds, avocado, tomato, habanero—and they’re some of the best ingredients in the world. It’s hard to go wrong. Still, I think we definitely do it right.

Cathal Armstrong
Chef/owner of Restaurant Eve
Without getting too esoteric about it, what I always try to teach people when creating delicious food is balancing acidity with sweetness, and then an understanding of texture contrast.

When you think about the finest wines of the world, they always have a good balanced structure between ripe fruit and good, bracing acidity on the palette. And they also have depth and texture contrast, where it stays in your mouth with a long and lingering sense. I think food should be made the same way.

If everything is sweet, then it’s too cloying. Too sour, and it’s puckering. No texture, and it’s flat and boring.

Sweetness doesn’t mean sugar exclusively—the sweet taste of pork is a natural sweetness, carrots, parsnips, beef, fresh seafood. They all have a natural, earthy sweetness to them. And when balanced with a little acidity it creates beautiful contrast. And that will give you that lingering flavor that makes you want more of it all of the time.

There’s one dish that’s been on the menu of Restaurant Eve since we opened, called OOO. It stands for onions, oysters and Ossetra caviar. It’s a rich creamy dish: you get the natural sweetness of the onion, and then the brininess of the oyster and caviar to balance it. And to create texture contrast we serve it in a crisp puff pastry. The sweetness of onion, brininess of the oyster and caviar and the crunchiness of the pastry. To me, that is a complete dish.

Bob Kinkead
Chef/owner of Kinkead’s and Sibling Rivalry
Delicious is when food is in balance. As basic as it sounds, food that is correctly seasoned achieves a balance of tastes—like tart versus sweet—that creates unprecedented flavor. Something precisely cooked, in keeping with seasonal ingredients at the peak of ripeness—this, to me, is where the essential, natural flavor of the food shines through.

Another component that enhances our experience is that epiphany of eating something sublime for the first time. Nothing beats those moments where you realize what great food really is.

Ris Lacoste
Executive chef/owner of RIS
There is no better word a chef wants to hear from a guest than “delicious.” There is no better word for me to experience. It’s one of those “super words” that invokes a passion and satisfaction, something that goes beyond a single element in a dish—it means you have reached their heart and soul, you have made their whole being content. When you taste something like that, you lack and want for nothing.

Delicious comes in many forms, from a single pure essence to a finely tuned symphony of flavors and textures. It might even just be a memory, like a favorite meal at your mother’s table, something delicious perhaps only to you.

As a chef, delicious comes from heart and soul, from a life force created by memories and passion, all transferred from you to the guest through the food you cook.

The Latest DishJune 13, 2012

June 13, 2012

Two longtime veterans of **The Palm** plan to open their own restaurant, **Epic Smokehouse,** in Arlington near Pentagon City Mall. It will be halfway between a fine-dining steak house and a barbecue joint, according to owner-operators Wayne Halleran and Joon Yang. Halleran was a waiter at the Palm in Tysons Corner and Yang was assistant GM. The design will be more on the masculine side (no surprise to Palm vets) with everyone?s most popular design element (it seems) ? reclaimed barn wood. The plan is to open at 1330 S. Fair Street in early August.

Chef & GM Update: David Lynch, a seasoned general manager from NYC and the DMV area joins **Ping Pong Dim Sum** in Chinatown as general manager. ..Randy Hill was named general manager for Ping Pong Dim Sum at Dupont Circle? Sonny Gorushanovich joins **901 Restaurant & Bar** as general manager. Previously, he was food and beverage director at **The Donovan House,** and before that, general manager Oya in Penn Quarter. He led teams and established food and beverage programs at prominent upscale restaurants in Miami, New York City, and San Antonio?Entertainment Cruises hired Scott Reynolds as executive chef for the ***National Elite,*** the new private charter yacht docked at National Harbor. It?s expected here in early summer. Chef Reynolds comes to Entertainment Cruises from the Marriott Annapolis Waterfront Hotel **Pusser?s Caribbean Grille**?Erik Guti?rrez has been named executive chef of **Indigo Landing** in Alexandria. Previously, he worked as sous chef at **Blue on Blue** at the Avalon Hotel in Beverly Hills, Calif., and the acclaimed **Morrison House** in Alexandria. Sue Drabkin is the new executive pastry chef at **RIS** in D.C.?s West End. She comes from **Harvest** in Cambridge, Mass., another leader in the farm to table movement.

Mel Oursinsiri signed a lease to open another **Tom Yum District** at 1515 Wilson Blvd in Rosslyn by year?s end. The first one is in Dupont Circle. It?s a Chipotle-like concept, with a Thai twist, where guests choose from five proteins on either a salad, noodles or rice with a variety of sauces such as Penang curry. Mel is a seasoned restaurateur, as he also owns and operates **Bangkok Joe?s** and **T.H.A.I.** Shirlington.

Mark White of Whisk Group, which is known for **Againn**, a gastropub, plans to open a new salad, sandwich, pastries, breads and coffee spot called **Bean & Bite,** at 1152 15th St., NW. He also plans to donate a percentage of every item sold to a charity to be named?Bean & Bite will have a retro, recycled look. It?s slated to open mid-summer.

Boilermaker Shops is a development that was once the site for manufacturing Navy ship boilers. Expect some recognizable eateries like Thompson Hospitality?s **brb (be right burger)** and **Austin Grill Express,** as well as NRG?s **Buzz Bakery**. Out-of-towners like Louisiana transplant **Huey?s 24/7 Diner** and **Willie?s Brew & Cue,** from Xavier Cervera, the owner of Capitol Hill favorites, such as **Lola?s, Molly Malone?s** and the **Chesapeake Room**. The biggest addition may be **Bluejacket,** a craft brewery from the Neighborhood Restaurant Group (NRG) which also owns and operates **Evening Star Cafe, Birch & Barley/ChurchKey, Rustico, Tallula** and **Vermilion**. The restaurant will have 150 seats plus a large outdoor seating area. The brewery will provide beer not just on-site and to NRG?s eateries, but to other local restaurants. NRG beer director Greg Engert and Bluejacket head brewer Megan Parisi, previously with **Cambridge Brewing Co.** in Massachusetts, are collaborating on the beer. Birch & Barley chef Kyle Bailey will oversee the menu, though details have not yet been finalized. Bluejacket will open in 2013.

In addition to Willie?s Brew & Cue, restaurateur Xavier Cervera plans to open **Park Tavern** at Canal Park. The public space, previously an empty lot, will have water fountains in the summer as well as sculptures. The restaurant aims to be among D.C.?s first LEED Gold-certified restaurants. Canal Park, named for the historic Washington Canal, will provide a water-borne connection between the Anacostia River and the Potomac River via the National Mall. It?s slated to open by late fall 2012.

**Osteria Morini,** the first D.C. restaurant from esteemed NY chef/restaurateur Michael White, plans to open in the Lumber Shed development near Nationals Park along the riverfront. White was named ?Best Chef in New York? by the James Beard Foundation. Osteria Morini, a casual Italian concept, already has locations in Soho and Bernardsville, N.J. It will feature pastas, grilled meats and other northern Italian specialties. The restaurant pays homage to the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy known for prosciutto, Parmigiano and balsamic vinegar. It?s slated to open next summer.

Quick Hits: **Sakuramen**, a ramen house, recently opened in an underground hideaway in Adams Morgan. It has a communal table for 20 for those who seek to avoid sunlight ? and you know who you are. **The Pinch** also recently opened in Columbia Heights, at 3548 14th Street, NW by owners Daniel Maceda, Carlos Eyster and Ashley Brudowsky. The chef is Stephanie Sharkey. Owner operators of **Cava Mezze** and **Cava Grill,** Ike Grigoropoulos and Ted Xenohristos, recently opened **Sugo Ciccetti** at 12505 Park Potomac Drive in Rockville. Allison Cooke of Core Group designed the space. The center of attention is a large pizza oven. There is also a charcuterie case with a slicer for mesmerizing guests…**Carving Station** and **FAI Pizza** will open at Mass Court building at 300 Massachusetts Ave., NW. **Tony & Joe?s** and **Nick?s Riverside Grill** are slated to (finally) open this month.

Although the Hilton Brothers have decided not to open a restaurant at the **HR-57** jazz club space at 1610 14th St., NW, their almost-partner, Ari Gejdenson of **Acqua al 2,** has taken over the lease to open an Italian restaurant there. The Hilton Brothers have also sold their lease at 1337 H Street, NE.

James McGillivray has signed a lease to open **Volcano Hot Stone Grill** in Gainesville. It?s interactive, as it features food cooked at the table on hot lava rocks. The only similarity to **The Melting Pot** is the cooking-at-the-table part. He signed a lease to open a 3,000-square-foot location at 14706 Lee Highway. The menu will concentrate on seafood, steaks and vegetables. It will seat 100, with room for more on the patio. He plans to open mid- to late- summer.

From the owners of **Agoura** in Dupont Circle comes **Tel?veh Caf? and Wine Bar,** a more casual concept at 401 Massachusetts Ave. NW It is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Like Agora, the restaurant will have a Mediterranean theme. The cafe will serve more than 300 wines by the bottle and more than 48 wines by the glass. Chef Ghassan Jarrouj will oversee both the new restaurant and Agora.

*Linda Roth Conte is president of Linda Roth Associates, Inc. (LRA), specializing in making creative connections through media relations, marketing initiatives, community outreach and special events for the hospitality industry. Contact Linda at 703-417-2700 or linda@lindarothpr.com, or visit her web site at www.lindarothpr.com*

Cocktail of the WeekMay 16, 2012

May 16, 2012

While Mardi Gras may be the biggest party of the year in New Orleans, visitors looking for a grand shindig that showcases the city?s musical heritage will head to the Big Easy for the annual Jazz and Heritage Festival. Those who made it to the recent 2012 event were entertained by local acts like the Neville Brothers and Dr. John as well as by international superstars, such as Cee Lo Green, Foo Fighters, Bruce Springsteen and Tom Petty.

For many, a trip to Bourbon Street before and after the show was all part of the musical fun. In a town known for drive-through daiquiri shops and go-cups, partiers can wander through the French Quarter with a choice of mind-numbing beverages like the cyclone, hand grenade and jungle juice. Long before these frosty concoctions hit the streets, there was the drink that may have caused more Crescent City hangovers than any other: the Hurricane.

Bright red and cloyingly sweet, a version of this tipple can be found in any watering hole in the French Quarter. While the drink?s formula has changed through the years, its history can be traced back to World War II when it was invented at Pat O?Brien?s.

For the first-time visitor to New Orleans, Pat O?Brien?s deserves a place on their to-do list. While some dismiss this well-tracked spot as ?touristy,? there?s a special allure about visiting the bar that the New Orleans Times-Picayune referred to as ?Disneyland for serious drinkers.? Founded by Pat-O?Brien, a bootlegger, and Charlie Cantell, a wholesaler, this Louisiana institution opened its doors as Prohibition was repealed. With its charming fountain courtyard, live piano music and storied history, Pat O?Brien?s is memorable stop in a city filled with saloons.

The invention of their signature drink came about as a practical necessity. Back in the 1940s, liquors such as Scotch and Bourbon were in short supply. There was a glut of post-Prohibition rum, and the dealers wanted to move it. The bar?s partners were forced by liquor wholesalers to order as many as 50 cases of rum in order to purchase a few cases of the whiskeys they wanted.

Barmen played around with a mixture of fruit juices and passion fruit until they came up with an alluring combination: a tasty and potent cocktail, containing four ounces of rum in each serving. They began selling the new creation in a Hurricane glass and the drink?s moniker was born. The Hurricane caught on, and the rest, as they say, is history.

While the atmosphere at Pat O?Brien?s has remained a constant, today?s Hurricanes have changed dramatically since the cocktail?s inception. Due to the high volume of visitors, Pat O?Brien?s now makes their hurricanes from a pre-made mix.

The ingredients are fairly simple a rum, grenadine, citrus and passion fruit juices. Pat O?Brien?s sells its own brand of Hurricane rum, made in the Virgin Islands, and mix, that can be ordered online. Nevertheless, creating your own hurricane from scratch will result in a rewarding and delicious refresher.

Even though this fabled tipple is not what it used to be, a stop at Pat O?Brien?s is still a fun diversion for those planning a visit to New Orleans. ?We have such a long and colorful history,? reminded Pat O?Brien?s spokesperson Jamie Touchton. ?Visitors want to experience the legend that people have been talking about for decades. The hurricane is the drink of New Orleans. Many try to imitate it, but none can compare to the taste, strength and the overall experience of being in Pat O?Brien?s.?

**THE HURRICANE**
2 1/2 oz Mount Gay Silver Rum
1 1/2 oz Goslings Black Seal Rum
1 oz fresh orange juice
1 oz fresh lime juice
2 ? oz Passion fruit puree
? Oz Stirrings grenadine (made from pomegranate)

Combine the ingredients in a shaker, and serve over ice. Garnish with an orange slice

Last-Minute Brunch for Mother’s Day

May 14, 2012

In case you need a reminder, Mother’s Day is just around the corner, and many places in the city are booked solid for brunch. Check out these last-minute brunch locations to say thank you to the moms in your life.

Café Milano
Starting at 11:30 a.m., you and your family can enjoy a Mother’s Day Buffet Brunch at Cafe Milano. The Buffet Brunch includes breakfast station, antipasti, raw bar, bread station, pasta station, carving station and desserts. $95 per person. $35 per child 12 years and under. 3251 Prospect Street, NW, 202.333.6183.

Coco Sala
Chocolate, Champagne and Flowers Brunch at Coco Sala serves a multi-course meal, champagne cocktail and chocolate surprise for mom. $60 for adults; $30 for children, 10 and under. Brunch is served 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. 929 F Street NW, 202.347.4265.

Bistro lepic
Offering classic and contemporary French cuisine, Bistro Lepic offers the perfect setting to say thank you to the mother in your life. On May 13, Bistro Lepic will be offering a special Mother’s Day four-course menu at $49.95 per person. The menu features foie gras, soft shell crabs, and whole grilled branzini. 1736 Wisconsin Avenue NW, 202.333.0111.

Blue Duck Tavern
The Blue Duck Tavern will offer a three-course, buffet-style holiday brunch, from 10:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Brunch highlights include prime rib, scrambled eggs with rock shrimp and ricotta cheesecake. Brunch is priced at $90 for adults and $42.50 for children between ages six and 12. 1201 24th Street, NW, 202.419.6755.

Brasserie Beck
Enjoy savory crepes and waffles at Robert Wiedmaier’s contemporary Belgian restaurant. A favorite at Beck is the large selection of daily cheeses served with apricot cake. Reserve a spot for brunch on the outdoor patio between 11 a.m. and 4 p.m. 1101 K Street NW, 202.408.1717.

Lincoln Restaurant
This year for Mother’s Day, Lincoln Restaurant, an upscale-casual restaurant known for its small plates, will be offering a three-course brunch. At $55 per person, choose from traditional brunch items with a twist. 1110 Vermont Avenue NW, 202. 386.9200.

Sea Catch
From 11:30 a.m. to 6 p.m., Sea Catch will be offering brunch in celebration of Mother’s Day. Brunch items include a lobster and goat cheese omelet, spinach quiche, poached eggs and stuffed French toast. 1054 31st Street Northwest , 202.337.8855.

Top of the Hay
Celebrate Mothers Day at the Hay Adams new venue located on the 9th floor of the hotel. With breath-taking views of Lafayette Park and the White House, enjoy a delicious brunch buffet featuring fresh produce from local farms, a chilled seafood station and housemade desserts. Pricing begins at $110 per person which includes a glass of Scharffenberger Brut upon arrival. 800 16th St NW, 202.638.2570.

Das

May 3, 2012

Ethiopian food remains a distant concept to many.For Georgetowners, Ethiopian dining means Das, which over the past six months has transformed from the former Zed’sto become apowerhouse in the niche market.
If you’ve never tried Ethiopian food before, Das prevails as the premierplaceto taste it.Theknowledgeable staff delights in advising guests about the menu and customs of Ethiopian dining. One of Das’ erudite servers was quick to assist her guests about one such custom: Injera.All Das’ dishes arrive with Ingera, a spongy yeast-risen flatbread. Guests use this Ethiopian staple as a utensil to scoop up their main course.
“It tastes even better if you use a little less of the bread and get more food,” she suggested.
Das has a variety of traditional dishes, complete with Injera, that are sure to surprise. One such dish is theChicken Doro Wat, a peppery poultry delight. The chicken arrives moist and tender in a spicy red sauce complimented by a hard-boiled egg. Though Doro Wat is reserved in its homeland for holidays and special occasions, by popular demandDasserves it everyday.
Another favorite dishis the SteakTibs. These diminutivecubed streaks are paired with hot green peepers, sautéed onions and fresh juicy tomatoes. The seasonedvegetables and Das’ specialty sauce successfully create a strong, but not overpowering,flavor combination.
For those with a braver tongue, Das Owner and hospitality expert, Sileshi Alifom recommends the Kitfo, a steak tartare. The chef’s spices alight the Kitfo with a salty gusto amplified by a robust spicy wallop.
After dinner,Alifom remindsthatthere are no true Ethiopian desserts. Most natives prefer fresh fruit as their after-dinner indulgence. However, if you are soinclined, Das has created a dessert menu complete with delicious variations on everyone’s favorites, like Chocolate Fondant.
Not only does Das acquaint guests with Ethiopia’s savory selections, it also seeks to bathe them in a chicambiance. Traditional artwork spans the walls and soft music welcomes Das’ eclectic customers toward the table’s treasure and the staff’s service expertise.
“All Ethiopian food is pretty much the same. If you go to 14th street they’ll have a similar menu. The difference is in the consistency side. The difference is in the presentation,” says Alifom. “The difference is service, and our main focus is service.”
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Across the Cutting Board with Ris


When I got to Ris, Washington chef Ris Lacoste’s lauded contribution to DC’s food culture, the restaurant was empty. It was early on a Saturday morning, and the city was just waking up. Through the windows, the expanses of barren dining tables and upturned chairs looked nearly unfamiliar from the week before, when I met Ris for the first time amidst a clattering of plates and glasses, the hum from a dozen full tables swarming around me in the bustling eatery. Now, it was lifeless and unmoving. They didn’t open for a few hours.

However, walking into the kitchen through the back, it was a different story. I was greeted by a pastry chef feverishly mixing some creamy, white spread (which, as I later found out, was completely delicious). Fresh fruits and vegetables were being hauled in by the palette-load while a flurry of assistants disseminated the boxes throughout the kitchen. Pots and pans were nearly flying, finding their proper location after the previous night’s demands. Vegetables were being prepped. A flame shot briefly out from an industrial stovetop. Rows of cutting stations pulsed with the temptation of the coming day, the knives glistening on the wall not far away.

I was there to cook soup with Ris. Call it a job perk. I myself know enough about food to fool my friends into thinking I can cook. I could tell you if you’re about to burn the rice, what to add to your stir-fry to make the vegetables zing, which wines go well with which meats. My fish is always crisp and juicy and my knives are always sharp. But setting up at a cooking station alongside Ris Lacoste feels like meeting Andre Agassi for a few sets of leisure tennis: whether or not they’re trying very hard, I am surely in over my head, but it’s still rather thrilling.

We are making soup because it is the season for soups. And if you know Ris at all, you know that she cooks with the seasons. Regularly going to farmer’s markets for inspiration, she sees food the way photographers see their subject matter. You can’t shoot a sunset in the morning, and you can’t cook with strawberries in the dead of winter. It doesn’t make sense. Food will taste best, and be most nutritious, if it’s fresh and local.

So it’s not surprising that soups are popular in the fall. In the autumn months, root vegetables and squashes are in great abundance: potatoes, butternut squash, beets, radishes, onions, horseradish,
sweet potatoes. Now is the time of year when these key ingredients are reaching their peak. Still, soup transcends mere seasonal convenience.

Giving someone a bowl of soup, Ris explains, is like giving that person your love, a taste of your soul. Soup needs to be listened to, pampered, spoken with, encouraged, handled delicately but firmly. Always keep your finished product in mind, she tells me. If it were a white soup, we would make sure the butter didn’t brown. If we were not going to puree the soup, we would skin the vegetables, and cut them uniformly to make sure they cook evenly. However our soups will not be white, and one will be pureed. Not to mention that there are loads of vitamins in vegetable skins, so it’s best to keep them in the cooking when you can.

The soups we will be making, she tells me over coffee, will be sweet potato bourbon soup and borscht. Sweet potatoes are like chocolate to me. I don’t care when or where or why—I just like eating them. I had also once added sweet potatoes to a ham bone soup and it tasted good, so I was looking forward to seeing what else it could do to a soup.

But the borscht had me jumping for joy. Like the Russian peasant’s equivalent to American beef chili, no one makes it the same way. A piecemeal dish from the old country, it’s modest, cheap, healthy, and a great way to clean out the pantry. Need to get rid of some onions? Tomatoes? Beef? Potatoes? Carrots? Celery? Throw ‘em in. Eggs? Hardboil ‘em and throw ‘em in.

This dish, however, has been largely left behind. You don’t see beets much outside the salad bar these days. My grandmother used to make borscht, and I recall being scared of it. That thick, impenetrable red, the indecipherable chunks of mystery vegetables.

My palette has since expanded, and my grandmother hasn’t been able to cook for years. I was excited to reinvigorate my heritage. As it turned out, the love of borscht runs in my blood. However,
this is not, as they say, your grandmother’s Russian borscht. The heavy beefstock and kielbasa add a savory thickness that cuts through the sweet-sour play of beets and horseradish like a razor. And as for the sweet potato bourbon: it indeed tastes as good as it sounds. A word from the wise: The apple-horseradish sour cream is an unmistakable stroke of genius.

SWEET POTATO BOURBON SOUP
Yield: 1 Gallon
The flavors in this soup that brighten and enhance the sweet potato are the Sage, Orange and Bourbon. Although the recipe calls for use of a ham and chicken stock, you can eliminate the ham and substitute vegetable stock or water.

Ingredients/Shopping List
2 Tbsp. Butter
3 Carrots, roughly chopped
2 Celery Stalks, roughly chopped
1 Onion, roughly chopped
Bouquet Garni of 6 Sage leaves, 2 Bay leaves, 5 Sprigs Fresh Thyme
1 C. Bourbon
3 lbs. Sweet Potatoes, peeled & roughly chopped
2 Oranges, halved
1 Smoked Ham Hock, optional
3 Qts. Chicken Stock, Vegetable Stock or Water
1 Tbsp. Salt or to taste
½ tsp. Freshly Cracked Black Pepper or to taste
½ C. Orange Juice

Garnish
1 C. Crème Fraîche, combined with 2 Tbsp. Bourbon
Diced Ham, Optional
Toasted Pecans, roughly chopped
Green Onions, thinly sliced

The Soup:
In a heavy-based 2-gallon soup pot, melt the butter. Sweat the carrots, celery and onions with the bouquet garni over medium heat for 5-7 minutes, until onions are lightly caramelized. (A Bouquet Garni is a mixture of whole fresh herbs, used to flavor soup or stock, tied in a ‘bouquet” for easy removal.) Add bourbon to deglaze the pan and flavor the vegetables. Cook for another 2 minutes until the vegetables are saturated and the alcohol of the bourbon is “cooked off.” Add the sweet potatoes, halved oranges and ham hock (if using). Add enough chicken stock to cover the vegetables by about 2 inches. {the amount of liquid you add to achieve the perfect thickness of the final purée depends a lot on the vegetable being used. Some vegetables render more water into a soup than others. Some take longer to cook, thus resulting in greater reduction of the amount of added liquid. Trial and error and experience are great teachers. Just remember to always observe. You can always thin a too-thick soup with stock or water and and thicken a too-thin soup with added cooked vegetables. Almost always there is a “fix.” You’ll know better next time.) Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook for 25-30 minutes or until potatoes are cooked through. (the cooking time depends on the size of the vegetables and the level of heat. If you are in a rush, cut the vegetables smaller and up the heat.)

The Garnish:
Meanwhile, mix together the crème fraîche and bourbon. Ready the remainder of your garnish
and set aside until ready to use. Remove the oranges, bouquet garni and ham hock from the soup. Season with salt and pepper. Puree in a blender until smooth. Pour blended soup back into the pot and stir in the orange juice. Taste for seasoning and adjust as needed. Serve with a dollop of bourbon crème fraîche, diced ham (if using), toasted pecans and green onions. Garnishes are KEY! They provide balance, texture, freshness, a bit of “je ne sais quoi“ to any soup.

RUSSIAN BORSCHT
Yield: 1 ½ Gallons

This soup is great for its vibrant color and texture – cutting the vegetables and other ingredients
into different shapes and sizes gives it an interesting consistency. Borscht is a soup that uses everything but the kitchen sink, so feel free to use leftover vegetables or meats that you have in the kitchen – no rules here! Every cook has their own version of Borscht. This is mine, which has developed over the years, inspired by friends and their grandmothers.

Ingredients/Shopping List
1 C. Bacon, small dice, Optional
2 Tbsp. Olive Oil
1 Onion, medium dice
3 Carrots, peeled & sliced into rounds
2 Celery Stalks, sliced
Bouquet Garni of 4 Sprigs of Fresh Thyme, 2 Bay leaves, & 5 Sprigs of Parsley
2 lb. Head of Red or Green Cabbage (approx. 2 qts.), thinly sliced
2 Qts. Beef Stock, optional (You can omit beef stock and just use chicken if preferred)
2 Qts. Chicken Stock
1 Ham Hock, optional
2 C. diced fresh tomatoes; in season, or canned San Marzano tomatoes
1 lb. Sausage (your choosing, we used kielbasa here), cooked & sliced
2 lb. Red Beets (approx. 2 qts.), roasted, peeled & grated
1 Celery Root, small dice
1-2 C. Brown Sugar
4-6 Lemons, juiced (1/2 – 2/3 C. lemon juice)
2 Tbsp. Salt or to taste
1 tsp. Freshly Cracked Black Pepper or to taste

Garnish
1 Apple, peeled & cut into a large dice (use any local, firm textured apple, such as Honeycrisp)
1 Tbsp. Butter
2 cups sour cream
½-1 Tbsp. Prepared Horseradish or to taste
Green Onions, thinly sliced

The Soup:
In a heavy-based 2-3 gallon soup pot, sauté the bacon in olive oil over medium heat until cooked thru, 3-4 minutes. Add the onions, carrots, celery, and herbs, and sweat for 3-5 minutes until softened. Add the cabbage and roast until it begins to caramelize slightly, about 5 minutes. Add beef stock (if using), chicken stock and ham hock (if using). Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook another 5 minutes, allowing the flavors to meld. Add the tomatoes, sausage, beets, celery root, brown sugar and lemon juice. Bring back to a boil and then reduce to a simmer and cook until vegetables are just cooked, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Taste additionally
for sugar/acid balance and adjust if necessary.

The Garnish:
Sauté the diced apple in butter for 3-5 minutes until softened and lightly caramelized, but still firm. Set aside to cool. Add the sour cream, horseradish and a pinch of salt. Mix well. Taste for seasoning and adjust as needed. Ready the remainder of the garnish and set aside until ready to use. Serve with a dollop of apple-horseradish sour cream & green onions. Add fresh sliced apple for texture & presentation.

Ris Tips: You can create your own prepared horseradish by grating fresh horseradish and mixing it with a little cider vinegar, brown sugar, and salt. Be mindful, fresh horseradish packs a punch. Also, when puréeing soups or sauces, use extreme caution. You may want the soup to cool slightly before using the blender. Blend in small amounts and always use a towel and your hand to secure the lid. The towel allows enough air circulation to keep the heat from building up pressure inside the blender, while keeping your hand from burning. Furthermore, every time you roast a chicken, make sure to make chicken stock while you are doing the dishes. And always make a whole pot of soup. Make deliveries to your neighbors with the leftovers. [gallery ids="99253,99254" nav="thumbs"]

Fancy Food Show Wows, Wins Over D.C.


The 57th Summer Fancy Food Show occupied the exhibit halls of the Walter E. Washington Convention Center, from July 10 to 12, as buyers and other attendees walked the aisles “to spot hot trends, find new ideas and source the latest products for stores and restaurants for the year to come” — and to sample foods, which included the latest trends and flavors in chocolate, artisanal meats and cheeses, confections, snacks, beverages, salsas, spices and natural and organic products.

With 180,000 products from 2,400 exhibitors representing 80 countries and regions, the show was overwhelming. Not open to the general public, it is run by the the National Association for the Specialty Food Trade, Inc. (NASFT), which says “the $70 billion U.S. specialty food industry is on the rebound after a period of holding back.” Indeed, the show is the largest marketplace for specialty foods and beverages in North America — and there was no holding back at the convention center. There were some familiar brands to causal attendees, but many exhibitors displayed unique, high-quality foods.

“We are so pleased to bring our show to Washington, D.C., as unprecedented interest in artisanal food and innovative products creates wonderful opportunities for buyers and suppliers,” said Ann Daw, president of the NASFT. The Summer Fancy Food Show moved to Washington, D.C., this year from its long-time home at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center in New York due to ongoing construction. It will be held again in D.C. in 2012.

One local attendee, advisory neighborhood commissioner Bill Starrels, was enthusiastic not only about the show but about its economic benefits for D.C. “This is a great benefit for hotels, restaurants and tourism nearby and around the District.”

A panel of trendspotters, coordinated by the NASFT, cited these trends: “Booze-Infused Foods,” such as Chili Lime Tequila Tortilla Brittle from Anette’s Chocolates or wine-infused ice cream from Mercer’s Dairy; “Give it a Try Kits,” like Grow Your Own Mushroom Garden from Back to the Roots; “Popped Food” like Black Truffle & White Cheddar Popcorn from 479 Degrees Popcorn; “Japanese-Inspired Eats,” such as Yuzu Gummy Pandas from Bissinger’s Handcrafted Chocolatier; “Cherries” like Bada Bing Cherries from Tillen Farms. Other trends identified at the Summer Fancy Food Show include coconut in food and beverages, salts from around the globe and innovative dairy products such as goat milk yogurt.

Winners of the 39th sofi Awards for the outstanding specialty foods and beverages of the year — ranging from cheese, chocolate and crackers to meat, past and snack foods — were announced at the show hosted by celebrity chef Cat Cora. (A sofi Award is considered the highest honor in the $70-billion specialty food industry. “sofi” stands for specialty outstanding food innovation.)

The big international food pavilions included Italy, Spain, Morocco, India, South Africa, Mexico, Chile and Jamaica; food aisles for states included Virginia, North Carolina, New Jersey, Vermont and New York.

At the end of the show, food was donated to D.C. Central Kitchen, which had teams ready to gather the samples.
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D.C. Trend Trucks Into Georgetown


Strolling down the brick-laid sidewalks, weaving in and out of the usual crowds, one large gathering stops you in your path. Quickly planning a scheme to maze your way through the group, a savory smell of mouth-watering food triggers a growl in your stomach. Much to your surprise, the crowd that was once in your way is now the crowd you want to be part of: a gathering of hungry Georgetowners waiting for fresh-made food from one of D.C.’s renowned food trucks.

A classic scene at Farragut Square, Franklin Park, L’Enfant Plaza, and Metro Station, D.C. food trucks have made a name for themselves and now are beginning to adventure into Georgetown. D.C. Food Trucks Association, a group of more than 20 local food trucks banding together to improve and develop the food truck industry, is actively seeking out new and beneficial places for food trucks access a greater D.C. audience.

A member of D.C. Food Truck Association, Big Cheese Gourmet operated by Patrick Rathbone, traveled to Georgetown two weeks ago, and got a great reception from locals.

“People were very appreciative that we actually came down there because they don’t get very many food trucks,” commented Rathbone about his premier Georgetown experience. Discussing competition with fellow food trucks, he said “we talk about how good different spots are… [we] pass along if someone is looking for a food truck in particular.” Rathborn sees a great potential market for their business in Georgetown, and plans to use his connections with the Association to get more trucks to the area.

Not only does D.C. Food Truck Association help organize and promote the mobile business, it also legally fights for better and improved legislation to help the industry thrive. A common misconception is that, like street food vendors such as hot dog stands, food trucks need site permits. In reality, since they have stationary kitchen property where the food is prepped and stored, they do not need site permits. Mike Lenard, owner and operator of TaKorean, encountered this issue on May 22, according to Prince of Petworth, a local D.C. neighborhood blog site, and almost had his truck shut down because of this misunderstanding.

Following the trend filling the nation’s sidewalks and streets, D.C.’s food trucks offer a variety of foods and treats. From Scoops2U, a not-so-classic ice cream truck, to CapMac, the bearers of some incredible macaroni and cheese, these trucks are bringing the restaurant scene curbside to people who only have a 20 minute lunch break to enjoy the savory and sweet sides of life. Even celebrity chefs are partaking in the mobile business. According to Zagat.com, Bravo’s Top Chef contestant and Good Stuff Eatery co-founder and head chef Spike Mendelsohn partnered with Sixth & I Historic Synagogue. Together they will launch Sixth & Rye in late May, a kosher food truck specializing in the classic corned beef sandwich.

“It’s not really about competition… it’s about bringing everyone together, the more trucks the merrier,” says Bapu Fojol, a founding brother and operator of fojol bros. Food Trucks, serving Merlindian food – their take on Indian – from one truck and Benethopian food – their take on Ethiopian – from another. fojol embraces similar concepts that the Association and Rathborn represent, one that sees food trucks as “more of a togetherness than a competition feeling.”

This “togetherness” is best represented with food truck’s use of social media. Constantly Tweeting to their customers and fellow colleagues, food trucks have mastered the craft of building community through social media. Websites such as FoodTruckFiesta.com use truck’s Twitter feeds and geo-locating social media to track locations of trucks, supplying customers with updated information every 60 seconds on where to go for their favorite mobile meal. Also, this aggregator site compiles the tweets, locations, blog posts, and reviews of the food trucks in D.C. and the greater Metropolitan area.

Constantly updating tweets from trucks discussing deals and locations to announcing launchings of new trucks, FoodTruckFiesta.com (also available in App form) centers this portable industry by getting truck operators and customers to come together to keep the business going. This keeps the somewhat scattered and on-the-go companies connected to one another and their customers.

“It’s less expensive to get into the [food truck] business,” comments Rathborn, when comparing food trucks to regular restaurants. “Customers bundle up [in the winter months] and wait in line… in the summer months they can’t wait to get out of the office into the sun,” he continues.
This summer, the food trucks have Trukeroo to promote their business. Created by Georgetown Events, Truckeroo is a food truck extravaganza with over 20 trucks lining up in the Navy Yard serving thousands of people. The day-long munching spectacle hosts live music, free admission and access to the Das Bullpen. With Trukeroo I and II already completed with wild success; Truckeroo III, the final summer event, will be held on August 12.

“It’s not the same old stuff,” comments Jake Robertson, a business worker in the Farragut Square area who comes to food trucks daily for lunch. “When you work somewhere you can only go so many places for lunch and it’s nice that they come to you,” he says when asked about the best part of food trucks while sitting on the grass in the shade of a tree, nibbling away at his kabob from the Stix Truck.
“We’re not just about food,” says Fojol, “we’re about bringing people together… about entertainment, enjoying yourself, leaving here with a smile.” As customers enjoy their food on silk blankets laid out by the fojol bros. truck under trees in Franklin Park, the atmosphere of food trucks sinks in. John S., operator of Sauca Food Truck, says the best part of his job “is being with the people and playing my music.”

The trucks are not only famous for their food but also for their atmosphere, that comes from the people who run the trucks “[We] drive around, play music… We wave. We smile. We get smiles back. It’s the best part,” says Fojol.

So when is the next food truck rolling into Georgetown? Keep your eyes on the Twitter feeds. According to Rathborne, they’ll be coming back “soon.”
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