Food & Wine

Georgetowner • December 13, 2012

**John Fulchino** of Johnny?s Half Shell and **Ann Cashion** of Taqueria Nacionale (next door) have come out winners, taking over the space at 1407 T St., NW. It was supposed to be the Post Office Bistro, operated by a New York company, but instead it will become a much bigger **Taqueria Nacional**. The old post office fa?ade will remain, and the large space will be divided into three areas inside. It will offer favorites ? authentic tacos, juices made fresh daily and tasty margaritas. The current Taqueria Nacional, next to Johnny?s Half Shell, will now become a take-out place for Fulchino?s food. It should be open by the time you read this.
**Chef Update: Juan Natal** has been named executive chef of **14K Restaurant & Lounge** in the Hamilton Crowne Plaza Hotel at 14th & K Streets, NW. Previously, he worked at Hawks Cay Resort and Villas in Duck Key, Fla. He was also executive chef for Pienza Italian Market at the Gaylord National Hotel?. Tony Conte has been promoted to group executive chef of Oval Room & 701 Restaurant. His has two new chefs de cuisine: **Lucas Sousa** will work with Conte at **701**, and **James Barton** is at the **Oval Room**. Barton and Sousa graduated from the CIA in Hyde Park, N.Y.
**Correction (sort of):** Without the ??? it?s hard to separate the Quick Hits so please know that the new Sprig & Sprout in Glover Park is a Pho and Vietnamese sandwich shop. It is not a Mexican restaurant, which was in reference to the next item in my October column about Riscatta.
America will always love hamburgers. **Burger 21**, a new fast-casual concept from Tampa-based **Front Burner Brands**, which also brought us the Melting Pot Restaurants, has signed franchisees to open four new Burger 21s in Fairfax and Montgomery counties. The franchisees: **Joseph Yu, Bubuhai, Ray** and **Nick Patel**, will develop the local outlets in Alexandria, Tysons Corner, Fair Lakes and Rockville. They know the franchise biz, as they also have Dunkin? Brands franchises. There are 10 franchised restaurants in development along the East Coast.
**Recent Openings: TAAN** is now open in Adams Morgan? **Hanoi House**, a new Vietnamese concept in the U Street Corridor just opened where Blackbyrd Warehouse used to be. **James Claudio**, executive chef of Marvin, draws from the experience and talent of his Vietnamese grandmother, **Lap Claudio**, to bring a more extensive menu of authentic Vietnamese dishes. **Brendan Murphy** of the **Gibson**, created the cocktail menu, which incorporates Vietnamese influences.
Typically, a restaurant opens first locally, then enters the world of airport food service ? but not this time. **Vino Volo**, a wine bar that opened its first location at Dulles in 2005, recently opened a wine lounge at Bethesda Row, its first location not at an airport. San Francisco-based Vino Volo or ?wine flight? in Italian, operates in 14 airports, including Dulles and BWI/Marshall Airport. That?s not all. Vino Volo will open its second location not at an airport in Tysons Corner in early 2013.
Restaurateurs **Paul Stratmeyer** and **David Levitt** are on a roll. They just opened **Black Lime Caf?**, a Mediterranean concept, in Crystal City, and plan to open more Black Lime Caf?s in the Baltimore-Washington area within the next five years. Levitt co-owned **Tenderjacks** in Leesburg; he and Stratmeyer bought the restaurant from Levitt?s partners. They converted Tenderjacks into **DelMarVa?s Taphouse**, which features locally crafted beer and wine. There are plans to open a Taphouse in Sterling next month, with others coming to Arlington and Quantico next year. The duo also operates DelMarVa?s Southern Caf?, a traditional Southern restaurant, which has one location in Baltimore that opened earlier this year.
Potomac Mills is expanding. It will soon take over all of Prince William County (just kidding?) **The Cheesecake Factory** has recently opened (its 12th location in the Baltimore/Washington area), the first of several new sit-down dining choices at Potomac Mills on its redeveloped south side. **Bahama Breeze** is scheduled to open its first Washington-area location at Potomac Mills later this year. **Bobby Flay?s Bobby?s Burger Palace** is also slated to open early next year.
**Ch-Ch-Changes:** Even though **Art and Soul** in the Liaison Hotel is not very old, it is closing immediately following January?s inauguration for a makeover that will transform the modern interior into something better suited to the restaurant?s farm-to-table southern menu. It is slated to re-open in mid-February. The change won?t affect the kitchen, which will continue to be manned by executive chef **Wes Morton**.
**Brickside Food & Drink** is slated to open on Cordell Avenue in Bethesda where Bubby?s Deli used to be. **Villa Mozart** (Fairfax) chef-owner Andrea Pace will be in charge of the kitchen. His business partner, **Brian Vasile**, a co-owner of **Grand Central** in Adams Morgan, will serve as general manager of the 85-seat operation. The interior is described as ?Prohibition.?
**Quick Hits:** Gordon Biersch plans to open near Nationals Stadium on M St, SE, by the beginning of the 2013 season. They have five other locations in the metro area?**Gypsy Sally?s Acoustic Tavern**, has applied for a license to open in Georgetown at 3401 K St., NW.
**Opening Update: Frederik de Pue?s Azur **on 405 8th St., NW, is slated to open by New Year?s Eve. The theme is European-style seafood. De Pue knows seafood, having cooked at the Michelin-rated Sea Grill in Brussels. Pastry chef **Kieu-Linh Nguyen** will make desserts. **Jon Arroyo** of **vFounding Farmers** is designing the cocktail menu. Tea is provided by Teaism.
**Beuchert?s Saloon** on 623 Pennsylvania Ave., SE, will have five sections focusing on locally sourced vegetables, snacks, main courses called ?Whole Meals,? side dishes and a dessert selection focusing on such retro treats as banana Foster Twinkies. The 47-seat restaurant is set to open Jan. 7.

Lisa Gillespie • November 27, 2012

Amid all the buffets in Las Vegas is Thomas Keller’s Bouchon, with that bustling quiet that a fine dining restaurant usually has and without any of the flash and prefabricated extravagance that the town was built on.

With indoor and outdoor seating, the ambience was lively but contained to low chatter with an old-world bar and an even better bartender who served up a Coudoulet de Beaucastel 2009 Red Rhone Blend. An inviting and intimate atmosphere amidst the overwhelming lights and people of Las Vegas, the staff is punctual and treat customers like what most restaurateurs should treat customers like, but even more so when the prices are as high for elegant but traditional food.

Living in the not-so-coastal town of D.C., every chance I get, I go for the oysters. And though Las Vegas is farther from water than our own home, I took a chance that Bouchon wouldn’t let me down on what I can never eat enough of: oysters. Starting with three varietals of oysters — Fannie Mae, Barron Point and Hama Hama — they were the dream of any seafood lover who never quite gets enough. Creamy and firm all at once with a hit on vinegar on each. Priced at $18 for half a dozen, they were a pricey decadence, but so is Vegas. They did not disappoint.

And then came the Rillettes aux Deux Saumons, or a jello-mold of smoked and baked salmon that the server peeled back a layer of Crisco-looking lard from. Served with toasted croutons, this could have made an entire meal for one. With plentiful croutons, I chose to dollop on more salmon than what was proportional to each garlicky crouton — the fish did not have the usual flakiness that a salmon cake can have, but was a fatty spread. A couple sitting next to us peered at the dish of salmon as the server peeled back the layer of fat, and after I took the first bite asked if it was worth it. It was.

My companion had to try the classic Frisee aux Lardons et Oeuf Poche, which is like an egg sandwich made somewhat healthier with frisse lettuce. Lardons, or thick pieces of bacon and pork belly were embedded in a bacon vinaigrette that deliciously mixed with runny egg yolk from the poached egg. The most indulgent “salad” on earth.

The restaurant features an open seafood bar, with three chefs preparing mussels, lobster, crab and clams with a muster. While watching them during the appetizer course, they prepared a Grand Plateau, or one lobster, 16 oysters, eight shrimp, eight claims, tne mussels and seasonal crab, for $110. It was like watching the building of a boat, with each chef on a particular duty and high fives at the end as the masterpiece was hauled off to a table.

Onto entrees. Gigot d’Agneau, or roasted rack of lamb with crispy swiss chard subric, bite-size pieces of rutabaga and rosemary lamb jus. The portion of lamb was just right with around 5 oz. and perfectly cooked. Oh, and the pears. The pears. Poached in red wine for over three hours, they tasted like what one always wishes plastic fruit on Christmas wreathes should take like: succulent, sweet and with the texture of a good steak that fades slowly away and down the throat. Paired with the slightly salty lamb, it was a match made in heaven and something most would never think to put together, or could pull off. The pears were the best, and I recommend Bouchon start offering them in as dessert.

From the same seafood car comes Moules au Safran, which are steamed with white wine, Dijon mustard and saffron and served with French fries, though we were unable to try it because of the bounds of our stomachs. For gnocchi lovers is a Gnocchi a la Parisienne with a fricassee of garden vegetables and brown butter sauce. And for the more simple bargain shopper is the Croque Madam, or a grilled ham and cheese sandwhich on brioche bread with a fried egg and sauce Mornay.

The classic steak Frites was a tossed bag, with pan-seared prime flatiron, caramelized shallots and maître d’hotel butter. Though the steak was slightly over-cooked for medium to what was probably medium well, the prime cut was still full-flavored and created enough jus for the massive amount of fries to be dipped in. On this front, the fries were too many and heaping. To watch them be dumped in a trashcan after perhaps an eighth was eaten was painful. Downsize the fries, Bouchon.

My companion who hates crème’ caramel, loved the crème caramel. The caramel custard was everything it should be – candied air that had just the right amount of caramel sauce that seems like it could be the jus from sugar. The Marquise au Chocolat was a must, with burnt orange cream on top of a singular disk of dark chocolate mousse that was thick and rich. Also on the dessert menu that was a close toss up in ordering were the Profiteroles, which are the classic puff pastry with vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce.

All in all, the meal was amazing and the service even better. It was a quiet respite, even from the venue of the bar, from Vegas with its French-inspired décor that begged to be likened to a French home and inviting and personal wait staff. The dark wood paneling, tables and bar made myself and my companion feel at home, which complimented the traditional food that was all in all, quite good.

Prices: $60 to $200 for dinner for two
Ambience: Classic and intimate amidst Las Vegas extravagance
Address: 3355 Las Vegas Blvd. S, Las Vegas, NV
Location: In The Venetian
Phone: (702) 414-6200
Web Site: www.bouchonbistro.com
Cuisine: French
Reservations: Recommended

Georgetowner • November 14, 2012

**Mi Cocina** plans to open in the spring of 2013 in The Collection at Chevy Chase where M Caf? was. It is part of M Crowd Restaurant Group, based in Irving, Texas, a suburb of Dallas. Mi Cocina offers classic Tex-Mex food, with hearty margaritas and their signature Mambo Taxi. There are 20 Mi Cocina restaurants currently open in Texas and Oklahoma, with one slated to open in Atlanta by the end of the year.

**Teatro** on K Street, NW (formerly Teatro Goldoni) has undergone a metamorphosis and will re-open as **LooK**, featuring small plates from all over the world ? even some Teatro favorites. D?cor is Icelandic-inspired with interactive bar and stair lighting, 20-foot suspended TV that can be viewed from either sides of the restaurant, making it two-way.

**AJ Prakash**, who has been in the Mexican restaurant business for 28 years, working with Tex-Mex too, plans to open his own modern, slightly upscale Mexican restaurant with a Mayan inspired menu. The 280-seat restaurant will be located in the Tysons area. There will also be seating for approximately 60 on the outdoor patio. No name yet. Stay tuned.

**The Raven Grill** owner Merid Admassu is teaming up with Kevin Perone and Cafe Saint Ex?s Jessica Kleinmann to open a tavern called Lyman?s at 3720 14th St., NW. Plans call for a 20-seat heated patio with a retractable roof, a latticed privacy fence, and an indoor-outdoor counter. Should be open soon.

**Quick Hits**: **Fabio Trabocchi** plans to open a second restaurant, **Fiola Mare**, with an emphasis on seafood, at Washington Harbour in 2013. The space is next door to Nick?s Riverside Grille. It?s about 10,000 square feet with a great patio overlooking the park and Kennedy Center. **The Firelake Grill** is slated to open at 4200 Wisconsin Ave., NW, where Ruby Tuesday?s was. **Casey?s Coffee** will open at 355 E St, SW, this month. **Lime Fresh Mexican Grill** will open on 7th Street, NW in Penn Quarter where Potbelly Sandwich Works used to be. A mid-2013 date is targeted. **Taylor Gourmet** will open its fifth locations when it opens at 6th & E Streets, NW in Penn Quarter where Meatballs used to be. Pho 14 will replace Pizza Hut on Columbia Road, NW in Adams Morgan. They plan to open in early November.

**Opening Updates**: **Farmers Fishers Bakers** at Washington Harbor will now open on Nov. 7. They were also victims of the flooding a year and a half ago. Latest intel straight from **Soupergirl**: her expanded Silver Spring operation should be open late November/early December. **Matchbox** 14th Street by end of November (fingers crossed). **Ted?s Bulletin** 14th Street and matchbox Merrifield by end of 1Q 2013. **Smash Burger**?s second store, in Dupont Circle, by February 2013.

Shari Sheffield • November 6, 2012

My parents used to tailgate in high style at the Strawberry Hill races in Virginia when I was growing up. I remember my mother packing up the station wagon with her sterling silver platters and chafing dishes to lay the prefect tailgate display. There was pea salad, spinach dip in pumpernickel bread, carved watermelons in crystal bowls, Jefferson cups, strawberries and powdered sugar in silver bowls and, of course, a huge Smithfield ham on its massive platter. All would be laid out on the back of the table-clothed tailgate of the Oldsmobile. I remember my sister and I running around and checking out the other tailgate parties along the rope. I also remember Dad and his associates standing around in tweed jackets with patches on the elbows mixing cocktails from shiny silver flasks of whiskey.

I tried to recreate my parent’s flair of entertaining and southern hospitality several years ago for Gold Cup. Silver platters? Check. Strawberries and powdered sugar? Check. Linen table cloths? Check. Flasks of whiskey? No check! This time we packed the SUV with wine.

Be it tailgating at the horse races, Redskins games or your alma mater’s homecoming, wherever there is an outdoor sporting event, there will be wine and food. If it’s your inclination this fall to pack up your car and entertain with style out the back of it too, do it with wines that will please tailgaters and their palates.

First, a couple of rules of thumb for selecting and serving wines for tailgates to make your spread easy and delicious:

1. Pair simple but flavorful wines with simple foods.

2. For fancier foods, by all means breakout the champagne. In my opinion, champagne goes with everything.

3. Food-friendly red wines varietals like Tempranillo or Sangiovese will please a wide range of your tailgaters palates.

4. Offer a semi-sweet white and a dry white, if you can, for the “I only drink white wine” tailgaters.
Here are a couple of recommendations to bring along to the game:

White Burgundy

Big oaky chardonnays don’t always pair well with food. So while you want to make sure you have some whites on hand for your sports fans, serve a lightly oaked, more subtle chardonnay like this white burgundy (French Chardonnay) from Pouilly Fuissé, France: LaBoure-Roi Vallon D’Or 2011.

Riesling or Pinto Gris

Riesling from Washington State that is on the sweeter side is generally liked by many new wine drinkers. So for those new alums returning for Homecoming and tailgating with you at you alma mater, you might consider packing the Pinot Gris or Riesling from Columbia Valley’s Cht. Ste. Michelle. These wines are simple but travel well. Both wines will pair well with spicy barbecue sauces and more complex spicy foods like red pepper hummus and savory dips.

Red Zinfandel

Segehsio Family Vineyard’s Sonoma Valley Zinfandel is a red wine for tailgates involving grilling. With its red fruit and spice flavors, this is a great food wine. It has a good amount of acidity. Acidity in wine compliments fats in meat. With grilled meats remember to choose a wine that has structure but not heavy tannin. Serve with grilled burgers, steaks, and sausages with onions and peppers.

See Seghesio Family Vineyards for more red zinfandels.

Tempranillo

Tempranillo is traditionally found in great Riojas from Spain but it is also found as a single varietal wine simply bottled as Tempranillo. Like red zinfandel, its level of acidity and plum/cherry flavors make it very food friendly. This wine will appeal to many different palates. Pair it with ribs and Latin fare like guacamole and chips and salsas. Try Marques de Caceres Rioja Reserva.

You could also toast RG3 and the Skins out at your next FedEx Field tailgate with a bottle of Redskins Reserve wine. Bottled to celebrate the team’s 80th anniversary, this Cabernet Sauvignon is a limited edition. It has been spotted in the restaurants at FedEx field as well as Harris Teeter.

So step up your tailgating game and try some of these wines (along with the beer). And remember the most important rule of tailgating with wine: Don’t Forget the Corkscrew! Cheers!?