Food & Wine

Nico Dodd • April 10, 2013

1789 Restaurant
1226 36th St. NW Washington, D.C. (202) 965-1789. Easter Day brunch includes a guest appearance of the Easter Bunny at each table delivering candy for children. Celebrate the holiday with a festive three-course brunch or an a la carte dinner. Entree prices range from $28-36.

Al Dente
3201 New Mexico Avenue, NW, Washington, D.C. (202) 244-2223. Al Dente is offering a family style menu for $39.95 that includes first and second courses, an entrée and dessert. The restaurant will be open from 11:30 a.m. – 8:30 p.m.

Billy Martin’s Tavern
1264 Wisconsin Ave. NW, Washington, D.C. (202) 333-7370. Martin’s will be offering a special Easter brunch menu for $30 from 8 a.m. – 4 p.m.

Bistro Francais
3124-48 M St. NW, Washington, D.C. (202) 338-3830. Celebrate Easter at Bistro Francais with Champagne Brunch a la carte 11 a.m. – 4 p.m. Regular menu also available for both Lunch & Dinner

Bistrot Lepic & Wine Bar
1737 Wisconsin Ave. NW, Washington, D.C. (202) 333-0111. Bistrot Lepic is offering an Easter Brunch special priced at $49.95.

Cafe Milano
3251 Prospect St. NW Washington, DC. (202) 333-6183. Easter brunch, made to order omelets and Italian cuisine, $95 per adult, $25 ages 6-12.

Chadwick’s
3205 K Street NW, Washington, D.C. (202) 333-2565. Chadwick’s offers Sunday brunch from 11:3 a.m. to 3:45 p.m. priced at $22. Be sure to make reservations.

Clyde’s of Georgetown
3236 M Street NW, Washington, D.C. (202) 333-9180. Clyde’s will be offering its regular brunch menu as well as spring menu items.

Nick’s Riverside Grill
3050 K Street N.W., Washington D.C. 20007. (202) 342-3535. Nick’s Riverside Grill will be offering a two course, prix fixe brunch for $18.95 that includes two courses. Available from 11-3 p.m.

Peacock Cafe
3251 Prospect St. NW, Washington, D.C. (202) 625-2740. Peacock Café will be offering its regular brunch menu.

Tombs
1226 36th St NW, Washington, D.C. (202) 337-6668. Don’t forget about free coffee cake on Sundays at Tombs.

Adour at St. Regis
923 16th St. NW Washington, DC (202) 509-8000. Four-course menu $90 per person, $40 per child.

The Colonnade
The Fairmont Washington DC. 2401 M St. NW Washington, DC. (202) 429-2400. Easter brunch buffet, $99 per adult; $49.50 per child age 6-12.

Roof Terrace Restaurant & Bar
The John F. Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts. 2700 F St. NW Washington, DC (202)416-8555. Brunch from 11 a.m. until 2 p.m. Take your picture with the Easter Bunny and receive a special treat. Enjoy a special Easter brunch with skyline views of the Potomac River. $39.95 for adults and $20.00 for children.

Tabard Inn
1739 N St. NW Washington, DC (202) 833-2668. A la carte Easter brunch in a quaint hotel setting near the White House.

Bistro Vivant
1394 Chain Bridge Road in McLean, VA (703) 356-1700. A la carte menu with Easter specials. Prices range from $12 to $22 for appetizers, $24 to $26 for entrées and $11 to $12 for desserts.

BRABO by Robert Wiedmaier
1600 King Street Alexandria, VA. (703) 894-3440. Easter brunch buffet $55 per adult, $15 per child.

Gary Tischler •

To some minds, Easter seems like an easy sermon for any Christian minister, priest or even motivational speaker. This particular Sunday is rich with the resonant metaphors and reality of resurrection, of rising again.

Still, so rich a palate could present a challenge for the making of sermons. You wonder how the Reverend Camille Cook Murray at the Georgetown Presbyterian Church will deal with it at a time when not just Catholics but Presbyterians and the whole denominational spectrum of Christendom and the community of faith rejoice in Easter–along with the arrival of a new pope–in perilous times.

You can guess that the Rev. Murray, who has rejuvenated one of Washington’s oldest religious communities and congregations with her youth, intelligence and connectivity since becoming its pastor in 2010 will find ways to bring in heaven and earth and stories, communities both celestial and just around the corner.

“In scripture, we find that the apostles were told that the tomb was open, and they ran to the tomb, because they wanted to see for themselves,” Murray said. “And this is what we must do with faith in our time—we can’t simply adopt it because our parents or our grandparents did. It is something we must come to see, discover, feel and live for ourselves. I am calling my sermon, ‘Seeing for Myself.’ “

Since her arrival in 2010, the church and Murray herself (her maiden name is Cook) have been blessed with major and positive changes. Her youthful presence—she is 31-years-old but looks younger—and her outward looking, embracing vision matched to an impressive intellect and resume—have buoyed the historic and venerable congregation to a notable increase in membership, many of them skewing younger. Murray herself had a notable change in her life: she married Scotsman Roddy Murray the summer of 2012, and they now own a house in Georgetown.

I suspect talking theology with Murray would be both stimulating and challenging because as senior pastor, she’s seems both obviously spiritual and grounded, philosophical and pragmatic. She is passionate about running and reminds you that she ran in the recent Rock and Roll marathon. “Three hours, 54 minutes,” she says emphatically.

The healthy athleticism probably stems from growing up in Minnesota with three brothers. The outward-reaching aspects of her vision probably comes from her parents—her father came from a Presbyterian family, her mother’s was Roman Catholic. She studied medicine at Vanderbilt University, changed her major and life and enrolled in the Princeton Theological Seminary. She spent time at the Madison Avenue Presbyterian Church in New York, had a year at Oxford University and after being ordained was appointed associate minister at St. Columba’s Church in London in 2007.

Her professional story line is impressive, but it’s her vision that must have been just as telling to others. Last year, at Eastertide, she outlined her vision to the congregation which included this: “I imagine our church being a place for its people to see God, minister to each other and reach out to others in the world.”

Georgetown Presbyterian Church dates back to 1780, and venerable is a good word for the solid church at 3115 P St., NW. But if you should take in a Sunday service as we did last summer, you note that how the venerable is part of a seamless tapestry not just of history but of the present. Sitting in the back, you notice the presence of numerous young children, who are restless with the spirit of just being there and you see former public officials, including an attorney general, a secretary of defense, a national security adviser.

“This is part of the history of this congregation, that it’s members believe in service and live a life of service,” Murray said.
Just from reading a series of titles of her sermons, it’s hard not to see that you are entering territory that claims the transcendent and the prosaic as kin. That kinship provides both energy and solace. It can call you home. Or, in the case of Pastor Murray, it can breathe new life into a church that she makes feel like home.

Shari Sheffield • April 9, 2013

The email’s subject read, “Invitation to a Champagne Conversation with Krug and Louis Vuitton.” I blinked at my computer screen and read it again. Yes, it did indeed contain the words invitation, Krug, champagne and Louis Vuitton. I thought I was surely dreaming. Krug and Louis Vuitton together, in one setting? I was all in!

Days later, on a rainy, cold January afternoon I slipped into the cozy environs of Quill at The Jefferson Hotel. Along with an exclusive group (less than a handful) of D.C. food and wine tastemakers, I was treated to a conversation and tasting by Krug and Vuitton. We were called together to discuss the current state of luxury. The two luxury brands are companies held under the LVMH Corporation and partially owned by Christian Dior. LVMH owns numerous luxury labels including Moet, Hennessey, Thomas Pink, and Fendi. Vuitton and Krug epitomize luxury brands that are evolving to capture the hearts of the contemporary luxury lover.

Krug’s ideal demographic consists in part of the 35 to 50 year-old entrepreneur (male or female) who doesn’t know about wine but wants the best and wants to be shown it without much fuss and fluff. They are contemporary and optimistic. They have savior faire and a joie de vivre. So does Krug champagne.

I often talk about styles of wines in relationship to human personalities. To me Krug represents contemporary freshness and finesse. The flavor profile of a Krug champagne is lemon or citrus, fresh bread, almond and richness without sacrificing freshness.

Their entry level, standard release, non-vintage champagne (basic level) is called Grande Cuvee. This retails around $150. Why the higher price for a non-vintage standard release champagne? It is a higher quality entry-level bottle than other champagnes. All of Krug’s champagnes are “prestige” and come from the harvest’s first pressing, i.e., the best juice. Also, it takes seven years to bottle Krug non-vintage champagne. Grande Cuvee can also include still wines from great harvests from 20 years ago. This particular afternoon the Grande Cuvee did not disappoint with its classic citrus, honey, and almond croissant flavors. I was delighted to see that Quill lists Grande Cuvee by the glass, (one of the few, if not only, place in the city that does).

Quill also provided wonderful accompaniments for the champagnes we tasted. We were served shrimp cocktail with horseradish crème fraiche, cheese plates with sweet “wine pearls” and seasonal fruit chutney; and local charcuterie. All are currently available on the Quill menu.

When we tasted the rosé, my mind reeled at the thought of how good it will taste when it ages. Krug’s rosé is the only prestige rosé champagne that blends wines from all three traditional champagne grape varietals. The use of all three grape varieties gives Krug rosé a richness unlike any other. It releases raisin on the nose and has a refreshing finish.

That stormy afternoon, we also had the opportunity to taste a quite appropriate treat in light of weather, the latest Krug vintage release. The 2000 vintage is affectionately named, the “Gourmandise Orageuse.” Krug indicates it means “stormy indulgence.” The climate in Champagne, in 2000, was unusual and chaotic. Hence, the grapes produced an extraordinary Krug vintage. Apple flavors and acidity make it very drinkable. However, the 2000 reflects the chaos of the climate the grapes were grown with a resulting rare style and elegance. But, isn’t that why we seek luxury? It provides a little needed comfort and elegance in our sometime chaotic, stormy contemporary world. Cheers to Krug! And cheers to you! Enjoy

Nico Dodd •

For this issue?s lunch, we stayed close to home and went to Caf? Bonaparte, a Georgetown favorite that first opened its doors in 2003. On a chilly Friday afternoon, it was packed and buzzing with people dining. The caf? does not take reservations, so be prepared.

We were impressed by their well-selected wine list and personal service. We tried the full gamut of the menu, including delicious mussels, asparagus risotto, calamari, French onion soup, and, of course, crepes. From the French fries and French onion soup to the last drop of the French press, we loved Caf? Bonaparte.

Finally, we sampled three different desserts, the best of which was–the Napoleon–coinidentally the name of Cafe Bonaparte?s sister restaurant, Napoleon Bistro & Lounge in Adams Morgan. Another restaurant, Malmaison, specializing in music and art, will be opening soon at 3401 K St., NW.

*For more information on Caf? Bonaparte, call (202) 333-8830 or visit NapoleonDC.com. Caf? Bonaparte, 1522 Wisconsin Ave., NW, Washington, D.C. 20007.*

Nico Dodd • March 12, 2013

For this issue?s lunch, we visited Range, Bryan Voltaggio?s latest, in the newly renovated Chevy Chase Pavilion. Under the pavilion?s large skylight, the restaurant is lit by a lot of natural light. We were interested in how the restaurant would look at night. The interior is decorated in palatial tans with modern opalescent soft leather seating and includes a sweet shop and a cookware shop. Diners have a full view of the kitchen, and bathrooms don?t disappoint.

As for the food, our favorites were the soup, tagliatelle. Everything we ordered had lots of savory flavors. Our dessert was a fluffy combination of chocolate and caramel corn with caramel ice cream.

The contemporary, casual vibe of the restaurant gels well with the small-plate concept. Diners can choose a few items to share, or stick to a pre-fixe menu. This is no place to be stiff. You?ve got to loosen your tie, share the dish you ordered and try something your table-mate ordered. Music was curated towards modern indie rock, with tracks from Band of Horses, Bloc Party and the Pixies among those we heard during our meal. Accordingly, serving staff are uniformly dressed in Converse Chuck Taylors.

***Range is located at 5335 Wisconsin Ave., NW, Washington, D.C. 20015. Make a reservation at [www.voltrange.com](http://www.voltrange.com)***

Georgetowner •

With a new Georgetown hotel comes a new restaurant ? with a familiar theme ? steakhouse. The new luxury **Capella Hotel** on 31st Street in Georgetown will open the **Grill Room**, featuring hand-cut meats and seafood. They have hired Swedish chef **Jakob Esko**, to run the restaurant and its bar, also with its own name, the **Rye Bar**. The restaurant will be open for lunch as well as dinner. They plan to open it in April.

And speaking of Georgetown, the **Graham Georgetown**, formerly the Hotel Monticello on Thomas Jefferson Street, which never had a restaurant, will open with two restaurants. **The Alex**, on the lower level, will offer breakfast and dinner. The rooftop Observatory will serve dinner and weekend brunch. April will be busy in Georgetown, as the Graham plans to be open at that time as well.

**Sanjeev Tuli** quietly opened **Malgudi**, a southern Indian restaurant on Wisconsin Avenue in Glover Park, just below his flagship Heritage India. Their bread is made with rice. There are more vegetarian dishes. It?s spicy?but black Pepper spicy, and southern Indian drink a pungent coffee more than tea.

**Quick Hits:** Finally, a Maryland location for **Sweetgreen** — on Georgia Avenue where Living Ruff pet store used to be ? and right near Discovery headquarters, so lunch time just got better. A summer opening is planned. Near to Maryland but still in D.C. **Soupergirl** is expanding her operations ? into the space next door. That means the kitchen can expand. Address remains the same — 314 Carroll St., NW. **Bryan Voltaggio?s Lunch Box** will open at Chevy Chase Pavilion, joining his other more upscale restaurant, Range. A Q3 2013 opening is planned. **Gourmet Pizza** plans to open on 415 8th Street, SE, on Barracks Row offering customized pizzas. No delivery service. A spring opening is planned.

**Chef Update:** **Chef Ravi Narayanan** is the executive chef at Heritage Management?s new concept, **Crossroads**, at 1901 Pennsylvania Ave., NW. He will also oversee the menu at Heritage India, also opening at that location by the end of this month. Previously, Ravi served as executive chef of Relais Chateaux USA, and worked at the luxury Hotel Oberoi in New Delhi. **Jacob Hunter** is the new executive chef at **Matchbox** in Merrifield, located in the Mosaic District. He played an integral role in the opening of matchbox Food Group?s Ted?s Bulletin and DC-3. Before matchbox, Jacob was executive chef at McCormick and Schmick?s. **Bistro Vivant** in McLean named **Ed Hardy** as chef de cuisine. Most recently he was chef de cuisine in NYC for Marcus Samuelsson?s American Table Bar & Caf? in Lincoln Center. **Anthony Pilla** formerly of Seventh Hill Pizza and Acqua al 2 is now at Urbana at Hotel Palomar Dupont Circle, taking over the pizza helm.

**Greg McCarty** has been named executive chef of NoPa Kitchen + Bar, a part of Ashok Bajaj?s Knightsbridge restaurant empire. The American brasserie will be located at 800 F St., NW. McCarty worked for Jean Georges Vongerichten for six years and opened Nobu 57 in NYC. An April opening is planned. It?s a busy April.

*Linda Roth Conte is president of Linda Roth Associates, Inc. (LRA), specializing in making creative connections through media relations, marketing initiatives, community outreach and special events for the hospitality industry. Contact Linda at 703-417-2700 or [linda@lindarothpr.com](mailto:linda@lindarothpr.com) or visit her web site at [www.lindarothpr.com](http://www.lindarothpr.com)*

Jody Kurash •

Aside from being a literary genius, Ernest Hemingway is also known for his legendary drinking habits. Evidence of his fondness for the bottle can be found throughout the world.

In Havana, the El Floridita erected a statue of Hemingway at the bar where he consumed his favorite papa doble Daiquiris. The author loved the bar at the Paris Ritz so much that when they renovated it in the 1990s, they named it after him. In Key West, visitors from across the globe flock to Sloppy Joe?s bar for the annual Hemingway look-alike contest, part of the island?s Hemingway Days celebration.

Many of Hemingway?s favorite tipples make appearances in his written works. In ?The Sun Also Rises,? the main character Jake Barnes drinks a Jack Rose in Paris while waiting for Lady Brett Ashley. In ?A Farewell to Arms,? Hemingway describes martinis as ?cool and clean? and in ?Islands in the Stream,? he mentions two of original concoctions: the Green Isaac?s Special, named for the Isaac Islands in the Bahamas, and the papa doble Daiquiri.

While much has been written about Hemingway, Phil Greene, a Washington resident and founding member of the Museum of the American Cocktail, has managed to capture another side of this prolific man. Greene?s book, ?To Have and Have Another,? is a historical account and collection of drink recipes based on the writer?s life and work. Greene focuses on Hemingway?s peculiar drinking habits and written descriptions of food and drink.

Greene, who discovered Hemingway in high school, says he ?was drawn to him for his style of writing, the vivid and compelling way he described scenes, people, food and drink, so much so that you could see, feel and taste what the characters were seeing, feeling, etc.?

As far as his interest in cocktails, you could say he was born into it. Greene is a descendant of Antoine Peychaud, the New Orleans pharmacist who created Peychaud?s Bitters and is credited with inventing the Sazerac, which was declared the official cocktail of New Orleans by the Louisiana legislature in 2008.

These two interests collided while Green was in his 20s. ?I sought to learn more about beer, wine and cocktails, I naturally took notice when Hemingway wrote about them,? he says ?When I encountered a drink I?d never seen or tasted before, the Jack Rose, absinthe, the Fine a l?Eau, Chambery Cassis, etc., I wanted to know what he/his characters were drinking. As a cocktail historian, it was a natural that I?d want to dig a little deeper here.?

?And finally, all through my 20s and 30s I wanted to write like Hemingway,? Greene recounts, ? By the time I reached my 40s, I figured I might as well write about Hemingway.?

Greene?s book is filled with interesting anecdotes about Hemingway?s preferred drinks. For example, he was not a fan of sweet drinks. ?For the Daiquiri,? Greene writes, ?he didn?t want sugar in his drinks (likely because he was diabetic), so he called for just a touch of maraschino liqueur in its place, and also added grapefruit juice to the usual lime juice.

Hemingway liked his martini ice cold. Greene describes the way he ?froze the glasses, made giant ice cubes at 20 degrees below zero using metal tennis ball cans, he froze his cocktail onions so they?d help keep the drink cold.?

Most of Greene?s research was done by scouring through Hemingway?s writings, biographies and letters. He traveled to Key West to interview Hemingway?s friends and children of friends and to Boston, where the Hemingway Collection is housed within the JFK Presidential Library.

Even if you are not a Hemingway buff, this book is full of interesting tidbits that make it a delightful read. ?I?d like to think there?s something for everyone,? Green says ?biography, literature, drinks recipes, folklore, pop culture, great old photos and ads, you name it.? The book is available at local stores including Politics & Prose, Kramerbooks, Barnes & Noble, Salt & Sundry and Coco Blanca.

**Green Isaac?s Special**
-2 oz. Gin
-4 oz. green coconut water
-1 oz. lime juice
-4 drops Angostura Bitters
-Fill highball glass with ice, add all ingredients, stir, serve. Optional garnish, wedge of lime.

To learn about upcoming events with Greene, visit [www.museumoftheamericancocktail.org](http://www.museumoftheamericancocktail.org)

Georgetowner • February 13, 2013

**Rose?s** Luxury is slated to open in second quarter 2013 in D.C.?s Barracks Row. Chef-owner is Aaron Silverman, who previously worked at **McCrady?s** in Charleston, and **Aldea** and **Momofuku Noodle Bar** in New York City. It will be a fixed price menu ($46) offering something cold, something warm, pasta, veggies & stuff, meat and a separate dessert menu. The upstairs dining space will be higher (literally) at $90 per person. No rules on how many courses to order.

Ivan Iricanin, who hails from Serbia, just opened a new Balkan restaurant, **Ambar**, in the popular Barracks Row neighborhood at of Rakija, at 523 8th Street, SE. Ambar spans two floors in 3,000 square feet and has a 700 square-foot outdoor patio on the second floor. Richard Sandoval is a partner with Iricanin in Ambar (as he is with Masa 14 and El Centro D.F. on 14th Street, NW) and is helping to develop the Balkan Mediterranean-inspired menu. Ambar is a Serbian name for a Balkan building for drying maize (corn). Iricanin?s hometown of Trstenik, Serbia, is known as the Land of Wine Goddesses, so the restaurant will offer imported Balkan wines and beer, as well as several types of Rakija, a fermented fruit brandy that is popular in Serbia.

Baltimore-based **Attman?s Delicatessen** has plans to open in Potomac, Md. Owner Marc Attman predicts an April opening date for the deli in the Cabin John Shopping Center on Seven Locks Road. D.C. has always been a strong market for Attman?s, as 80 percent of the deli?s catering business comes from D.C. As a Baltimore girl, I look forward to the opening of Attman?s closer to my D.C. home.

Former Shaw?s Tavern general manager Reza Akhavan has plans to open an upscale casual restaurant focused on local, seasonal ingredients at 917 5th St., NW, this March. It may or may not be called Success. A chef has not been named yet, but the food will have European and Mediterranean influ- ences. There will also be 12 taps for beer plus wine and cock- tails. The 85-seat spot (including bar seating) will have an industrial- style interior design. Further down the line, Akhavan hopes to open a roof deck.

**Chef Update:** Takeshi Nishikawa will be the new chef at **New Heights** in Woodley Park. Previously he worked at Bryan Voltaggio?s Volt in Frederick as well as **Restaurant Eve** in Old Town, Alexandria. He replaces Ron Tanaka, who will be opening his own place with Sherman Golden of Maple, called **Thally**. It will be located at 1316 9th St., NW. A spring opening is planned.

*Linda Roth Conte is president of Linda Roth Associates, Inc (LRA) Contact Linda at 703-417-2700 or linda@lindarothpr.com or visit her web site at www.lindarothpr.com*

Sara Gilgore • February 7, 2013

Restaurant Week hits D.C. Feb. 4 through Feb. 10, once again inviting food lovers to enjoy affordable three-course meals at top-notch restaurants.

This semiannual culinary celebration, presented by Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington, is known throughout the region for some great deals: prix fixe $20.13 lunches and $35.13 dinners that are generally pricey, comparably. It entices people to explore the growing restaurant scene and take advantage of fine dining experiences they otherwise might not.

More than 240 restaurants will participate this year, offering diverse cuisine from D.C.-metro area neighborhoods, including parts of Northern Virginia and Maryland. More than 20 Georgetown establishments will partake in the program, with menus representing flavors from Mexico, Italy, Spain, France and Latin America.

The Georgetown spots include:

1789 Restaursant

Bistro Francais

Bistrot Lepic & Wine Bar

Bodega Spanish Tapas & Lounge

Cafe Milano

Clyde’s of Georgetown

Farmers Fishers Bakers

Filomena Ristorante

Il Canale

La Chaumiere

M Street Bar & Grill

Morton’s The Steakhouse-Georgetown

Neyla Restaurant

Nick’s Riverside Grill

Ristorante Piccolo

Sea Catch

Thunder Burger & Bar

Tony & Joe’s Seafood Place

Unum Restaurant

A full list of member restaurants is available on the new Restaurant Week website: ramw.org/restaurantweek. RAMW President Kathy Hollinger said that the association worked hard to create a site that effectively provides potential consumers with important event information.

And do we need to add this advice? Make reservations now or as early as possible.