Food

Caitlin Franz • April 28, 2015

It’s easy to get bogged down in over-zealous green marketing campaigns when trying to find high-quality food that is also produced in an environmentally responsible way. Check out the following compilation of local restaurants with local, fresh and eco-friendly menus.

Big Bear Café
Big Bear Café features seasonal produce and dishes, homemade sausages and house-cured fish and bacon. The iconic Bloomingdale spot, a hipster haven, is now open for dinner. The newly expanded patio is the perfect place to enjoy the warming weather. 1700 First St. NW ? 202-643-9222 ? bigbearcafe-dc.com.

Busboys and Poets
Busboys and Poets is a widely popular restaurant with a cozy atmosphere for all ages. Whether for brunch with friends or a romantic date, the menu is well stocked with sustainable food and locally cultivated organic ingredients. Browse the bookstore’s environmental selection while you wait to be seated or after your meal. 2021 V. St. NW ? 202-387-7638 ? busboysandpoets.com

Café du Parc
This authentic French bistro provides a casual dining atmosphere, complimented by its one-of-a-kind menu, enhanced with locally grown produce. The restaurant has three-star certified status from the Green Restaurant Association.1401 Pennsylvania Ave. NW ? 202-942-7000 ? cafeduparc.com

Commissary
Another three-star certified Green Restaurant, Commissary offers a place to sit down for a meal at any time of day, plus a bar and a coffeehouse. The P Street venue serves breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner, along with snacks, desserts and smoothies. There’s a cozy lounge area, an outdoor café and free Wi-Fi. This local dining spot obtains its ingredients from the Eatwell Natural Farm in Maryland. 1443 P St. NW ? 202-299-0018 ? commissarydc.com

Table
Boasting menus that change daily depending on the seasonal ingredients on hand, it’s no wonder that hours are spent handwriting each of Table’s menus – in pencil. Tucked away on N Street in Shaw, Table gained the honor of being one of the first restaurants in the United States to be REAL (Responsible Epicurean and Agricultural Leadership) Verified by the United States Healthful Food Council. 903 N St. NW ? 202-588-5200 ? tabledc.com

The Pig
As its name would imply, the Pig has a pork-centric menu. The restaurant features locally sourced food, which changes based on the availability of the freshest ingredients. The vegetables used in its dishes are grown on its farm in nearby La Plata, Maryland. In addition, the Pig uses only humanely raised animals and works to create minimal waste. 1320 14th St. NW ? 202-290-2821 ? thepigdc.com

Restaurant Nora
Nora was the first restaurant in America to be certified organic. The venue uses solely organic ingredients and prides itself on farm-to-fork dining. Restaurant Nora utilizes sustainable cooking methods and offers a seasonal dinner menu. 2132 Florida Ave. NW ? 202-462-5143 ? noras.com

1789 Restaurant
An institution in Georgetown, 1789 also happens to be a great place to sample cuisine made with local and organic ingredients. The restaurant’s website features a list of local farms where it obtains its fresh ingredients. Make sure you make a reservation if you plan to dine at 1789. A jacket is required for men. 1226 36th St. NW ? 202-965-1789 ? 1789restaurant.com

Peter Murray •

The Fuchs family’s 90-year-old Wagshal’s empire has a new crown jewel: Pitmasters Back Alley BBQ.

The new venture, housed in an alley alongside Wagshal’s sprawling base in the Spring Valley Shopping Center, is unassuming but noticeable; the reclaimed wood entrance – in shades of amber, maroon and mahogany – stands out from the white walls and loading docks, announcing to passersby that something good is afoot.

And it really is. The literal hole-in-the-wall, 900 square feet with a rustic, pig-centric aesthetic throughout, serves up amazing barbecue, possibly the best in the District.

The quality is no surprise given that Bill Fuchs and his son Brian have been supplying renowned barbecue pitmasters with prime cuts of meat for competitions for years. In ramping up their own barbecue restaurant, they even got a few pitmaster pals to contribute recipes and cooking techniques – the equivalent of state secrets in the barbecue world. (The Washington Post reported that the Fuchses make the cooks at Pitmasters sign nondisclosure agreements.)

Additionally, their experience with Wagshal’s Market and Wagshal’s Deli has lent the Fuchs a unique perspective on meat. Brian takes great pride in the product quality, emphasizing that his team is intimately involved in the process, from farm to table (fear before slaughter can completely “change the taste of the meat,” he says). In the case of the “Kobe” of pork, their Ibérico de Bellota Costilla ribs, that involvement requires international travel, to Spain.

The care put into the meat shows, or, rather, comes through on the palate. The St. Louis ribs don’t fall off the bones – Fuchs says they really shouldn’t – until you take a bite. They feel like butter in between the teeth, but with a scrumptious and savory flavor. The half-smoke, which blows others in D.C. out of the water, is crispy on the outside and tender, with umami flavor, on the inside. The garnishments (chili, fries, cheese and onions) are the cherry on top of a near-perfect package.

Most barbecue joints serve up more pulled pork than you can wag your tail at. At Pitmasters, Fuchs opts for chopped pork, saying that competitors’ pulled pork is often overcooked. The resulting Carolina chopped pork shoulder is succulent and robust, excellent-tasting on its own, without any barbecue sauce. (There isn’t anything on the menu that needs sauce, despite how good the Pitmasters sauce tastes.) Flavor also carries the day for Pitmasters’ smoky, marbled brisket, which practically melts in your mouth as you chew.

As for sides, let’s start with the power players: the burnt ends. The beef and pork burnt ends are delectable little blackened bites rolled in sauce. They crunch before giving way to soft, delicious, slow-cooked meat.

Chef Trini’s “Mother in Law” salsa-cum-slaw – made with pickled veggies, Caribbean flavor (thanks to green mango) and a spicy kick – impresses right off the bat. One would be hard-pressed to find a similar taste elsewhere in the District, let alone the world. The staple sides, like the collard greens and baked beans, distinguish themselves with meat – bacon, that is. The rest of the sides, including the mac ‘n’ cheese and loaded fries (nachos on steroids: covered with cheese, burnt ends and pickled jalapenos), are sure to be crowd-pleasers in all their gluttonous glory.

This review may tempt you to tear up to Pitmasters to get in on all of this hot-meat action. But hold back: the restaurant only offers barbecue to order. You have to call it in, and you can’t eat it there.

Fuchs savors conversation about how his team prepares orders so that they are fresh for customers. Despite the trend of extending smoke times up to 24 hours, the meats are smoked for just a few hours, which Fuchs says is all they need. The restaurant even provides reheating instructions, because, Fuchs says, “you don’t want to microwave ribs.” [gallery ids="102055,134558" nav="thumbs"]

Sallie Lewis • April 23, 2015

On March 3, Ari Gejdenson of Mindful Restaurant Group unveiled his newest venture: Sotto on 14th Street NW. The space is home to a harmonious blend of live jazz, wine, craft cocktails and American cuisine with a smoky finish. Sotto, ‘below’ in Italian, is appropriately located underneath Ghibellina, another of Gejdenson’s popular dining destinations.

The jazz and blues cultural center HR-57 was the former tenant of the building, before moving to H Street four years ago. As a tribute to the building’s past, Sotto has live jazz and blues Tuesday through Saturday, featuring a constant rotation of local artists and aspiring talent.

The restaurant’s ambiance is as sleek and sexy as the jazzy sounds that fill it. Sotto’s dimly lit space, designed by Gronning Architects, incorporates lots of exposed brick, with attractive wood and steel accents for an overall warm, sultry effect. Patrons waiting for a table or simply looking to drink and snack on appetizers can sit at the long wooden bar, flanked by rustic steel barstools.

Sotto’s bar manager Daniel Barnes created his cocktail list based on classics from the 1950s and earlier; think of a “Trolley Car” with spiced rum, blood orange and angostura or an “Ed Ellington” with scotch, Lillet Rose, cranberry and orange. His take on these cocktails goes back to D.C.’s jazz culture, when jazz clubs were really big up and down U Street. “We’re trying to continue that by having jazz here,” said Michael Rosato, Sotto’s general manager.

Executive chef Keith Cabot’s menu reflects regional American cuisine with an emphasis on smoked meats. The chef’s selection of housemade sausages was inspired by Gejdenson’s trip to Austin. Other highlights include the Brussels sprout salad with an herb cream dressing and pomegranates, pork ribs, beef brisket and a delicious half-chicken with a delightfully crisp skin and chili sauce. Sotto also has a sweet selection of desserts, like poached apple with caramel ice cream or banana bread with dulce de leche and chocolate.

Diners can enjoy all of this in one of the restaurant’s cozy booths or at long wooden tables. At the end of the restaurant, a stunning glass wine cellar is the backdrop to the night’s local talent.

Sotto is open Tuesday through Saturday for dinner, starting at 6 p.m. [gallery ids="102023,134915,134914" nav="thumbs"]

Sallie Lewis • March 26, 2015

Walking into After Peacock Room is like opening an elegant coffee table book and spending an afternoon in its glossy pages. The location, a former consignment shop, has metamorphosed into a delightful teahouse and fine-dining café. With its gilded industrial hardware, crystal chandeliers, plush blue benches and peacock-colored walls, it is both cozy and hip.

The aesthetic of After Peacock Room is inspired by James McNeill Whistler’s “Harmony in Blue and Gold: The Peacock Room,” created in 1877 for wealthy English shipowner Frederick Richards Leyland. Whistler’s work was purchased by Charles Lang Freer and later installed in the Smithsonian’s Freer Gallery on the Mall, where it remains today.

Heewon Ra is the lady behind After Peacock Room. The Korean beauty, who has lived in D.C. since 2001, remembers the first time she saw the Peacock Room at the Freer Gallery more than ten years ago. That moment would spark a sense of wonderment that would flower years later in her first venture into the restaurant business.

Prior to opening, Ra’s love of art and interior design drew her to a curatorial internship at the Hirshhorn Museum and to studies at the Corcoran College of Art and Design. After graduating, she spent time in Paris, where she fell in love with Mariage Frères, the famed teahouse in her Saint-Germain-des-Prés neighborhood.

Upon returning to D.C., she dreamed about creating something similar to Mariage Frères, and Georgetown, with its pretty homes and European feel, seemed like just the place. “My goal was to provide excellent food and service in a nice ambiance,” she said. Inspired by the beautiful Prussian blues, deep greens and gold that come alive in Whistler’s work, After Peacock Room serves as a contemporary interpretation of the classic.

The quaint size of the teahouse is part of its appeal. In 2011, Ra snatched up the building on 27th and P. She began construction in 2013, and by 2014 After Peacock Room was in business. Along with being her first restaurant, the space was also her first interior-design project, and the outcome is a tribute to her talent. The interior walls, which are canvas, are layered in oil paint in hues of sea green and midnight blue that come alive at night.

The dining room in the back, called the Hawthorn Flower Room, is inspired by Leyland’s collection of blue and white porcelain; the walls are painted with gold flowers. Rockville-based woodworker Jed Dinger made the communal dining tables, and the black bistro chairs that accent them were freshened with brushstrokes of gold paint, which Ra added herself.

After Peacock Room was closed from June to November while the kitchen was updated and the wine-and-beer license was pending. During that period, the decision was made to transition from a full teahouse to a daytime tea-and-coffee destination with a fine-dining dinner component. Chef Nick Sharpe, who worked under the acclaimed Michael Mina in San Francisco, now helms the kitchen. The menu features the best of seasonal tastes.

On Sundays, After Peacock Room offers takeout coffee service from 9 to noon, with the proceeds donated to local charities.
Ra looks forward to growing the restaurant’s dinner business and being able to host small private parties. For now, though, she is focused on sustaining a unique teahouse and an elegant dining experience in the neighborhood.

After Peacock Room is located at 2622 P. St. NW.

Georgetowner • March 25, 2015

Minneapolis-based Granite City Food & Brewery plans to open its first East Coast location (and 33rd in the nation) late in April at National Harbor, on the bottom level of the Esplanade Building. With 300+ seats, this casual restaurant will feature a brewery, an open kitchen, a spacious patio and private dining. The plan is to have more than a dozen 450-gallon tanks on site. The company also owns Cadillac Ranch, which is slated to have a $1-million renovation this fall.

Quick Hits – Shaw edition: The Shay apartment building is expected to welcome a Tim Ma restaurant and a Compass Coffee … A ramen shop from Daikaya’s Daisuke Utagawa, Yama Jewayni and Katsuya Fukushima is slated for Shaw … Expect a Neighborhood Restaurant Group restaurant from their chef Rob Rubba in the old Atlantic Plumbing building.

More Shaw: All Purpose, a pizza-centric Italian American restaurant, is slated to open in the Colonel in Shaw at 1250 9th St. NW. It’s a team effort from the Bloomingdale restaurateurs who brought you The Red Hen – Michael Friedman, Michael O’Malley, and Sebastian Zutant – and Boundary Stone owners Gareth Croke and Colin McDonough. Michael will work with pastry chef Tiffany MacIsaac of Buttercream Bakeshop to create a special pizza dough. MacIsaac will consult on All Purpose’s desserts, as well as open a bakeshop in the same building. The beverage menu will be a collaboration between Zutant, Croke and McDonough. The 80-seat restaurant is expected to open in the fourth quarter of this year.

Also opening in the Colonel is a Mexican restaurant, Espita Mezcalería. Shaw resident and owner, Josh Phillips, a Master Mezcalier, plans an innovative bar program that highlights the many varietals of the spirit, paired with the complex flavors of food from the southern Mexican state of Oaxaca. A Cornell grad, Phillips worked in bars and restaurants in Philadelphia before studying mezcal in Oaxaca. A September opening is planned.

Robert Wiedmaier will open Urban Heights – with chef Cliff Wharton at the helm – at the former location of The Roof in Bethesda. In line with the chef’s Filipino heritage, Philippine and South Asian cuisine will be the heart of the menu. The restaurant will feature small plates on three floors along with a rooftop bar and a tuna bar – offering everything from the unusual ahi poke to the popular tuna tartare. A May opening is planned.

Cathal and Meshelle Armstrong plan to open their first D.C. restaurant in Southwest D.C.’s Wharf development. It will be different from Restaurant Eve, serving food from all over Asia, notably Filipino cuisine. Filipino food is trending hot now, as there is also Purple Patch in Mount Pleasant and Bad Saint in Columbia Heights, as well as the aforementioned Urban Heights in Bethesda. The Filipino connection is Meshelle, who is of Filipino descent.

Chef and Manager Update: Michael Williams was appointed beverage director of Bastille and its sister restaurant Bistrot Royal, both in Old Town, Alexandria. He previously worked at The Oval Room and The Occidental Grill … Bobbie Miller is the new chef and beverage director at the Westin Arlington Gateway and will oversee hotel’s Italian restaurant Pinzimini … Fabrice Bendano is the new pastry chef at Le Diplomate in D.C.’s Logan Circle. He has worked at Adour and Citronelle and, most recently, as a consultant for Alain Ducasse’s miX in Las Vegas. He won the RAMMY award for Best Pastry Chef in 2012.

Quick Hits: The Navy Yard Oyster Co., a wine-centric oyster bar, is slated to open at the Lumber Shed in Southeast … The Woodward Building on 15th Street in downtown D.C. will soon feature an intimate prepared-food shop and bakery from the owners of Pleasant Pops in Adams Morgan … Blackfinn will open a 6,500-square-foot restaurant at the Loudoun Station project in the fourth quarter of 2015. There are currently locations in downtown D.C. and Merrifield … Basil Leaf, a fast-casual Mediterranean restaurant with Persian influence (the chef is Reza Monsefan, who used to run Pars) will also open there this summer.

Openings Update: Momofuku Milk Bar has a summer opening scheduled … Pizza Studio in Dupont Circle is now planning an early second-quarter opening … Tadich Grill is now aiming for the middle of the second quarter … Smokehouse Live, a barbecue restaurant from Jim Foss, most recently of Hill Country BBQ, and Kristopher Diemar, formerly of Carmine’s, are taking this barbecue concept to Leesburg and plan to open mid-spring.

Linda Roth is president of Linda Roth Associates, a public relations and marketing firm that specializes in the hospitality industry.

Georgetowner • March 11, 2015

While cupcakes still rule and macarons have staked a claim in Georgetown and frozen yogurt holds on, there is a new contender coming to town: the cream puff.

Specifically, Beard Papa’s — an international chain of cream puff stores, begun in Osaka, Japan, in 1999 — will be setting up shop at 1332 Wisconsin Ave. NW, formerly a yogurt store. The company reports that it hopes to open the Georgetown shop in late April or early May.

Beard Papa’s has more 250 stores in Japan and 300 worldwide. Its main product is a choux pastry shell filled with whipped cream custard, available in many flavors that include vanilla, chocolate, strawberry, green tea, hazelnut or coconut cream. Beard Papa’s reports that it has served, as of this week, “453,418,099 cream puffs.” Think of the popular sweets cafe of cream puffs and eclairs as the Japanese version of Krispy Kreme and more.

Georgetowner • February 25, 2015

Sette Osteria plans to open this March in the Logan Circle space formerly occupied by M Café Bar at 1634 14th St. NW. Owner Iraklis Karabassis also has a Sette Osteria in Dupont Circle and Café Milano in Georgetown. Chef Nicola Sanna will feature housemade pastas and southern Italian pizzas. The dining room will seat 72, with a 30-seat private dining space. The outdoor patio will seat 45.

C-C-Changes: Could Robert Wiedmaier’s culinary tribute to fine dining, Marcel’s, possibly get better? In design: yes. Local designer Charles W. Craig, who worked with Robert and Polly Wiedmaier on their own home, was tasked with creating a new design that is lighter, brighter and festive. There’s new carpeting, new sheer curtains, framed silk scarves designed and signed by Art Deco master Erté, plush high-back leather chairs, starburst chandeliers and new Rosenthal china bearing the familiar logo of Marcel’s. The popular private table 28 is now completely enclosed by floor-to-ceiling drapery.

Mike Isabella is expanding his Greek concept, Kapnos, into Bethesda. Kapnos Kouzina (kitchen) will open this summer at 4900 Hampden Lane, where Vapiano used to be. The Bethesda outpost will feature more homestyle Greek platters meant for two to four people.

Quick Hits: Seven Hills Pizza is slated to open in D.C.’s Palisades neighborhood near BlackSalt, where Marvelous Market was…Derek Brown’s empire will expand once again with the addition of Scarlet Oak, slated to open in the Navy Yard area at 909 New Jersey Ave. SE…Brixx Pizza is slated to open in Clarendon next to Nam Viet…J ‘n G Tavern, a burger place with lots of beers on tap, will open in Petworth, from the folks who brought you Jackie’s and Bar Charley…Another fast-casual pizza concept, Mod Pizza from Seattle, will open at Silver Spring’s Ellsworth Place…Kin Da Thai and Sushi will open in Takoma Park where Takoma Bistro used to be. The owners also operate Aroi Thai in D.C.’s Bloomingdale neighborhood.

Openings Update: Ted’s Bulletin opened its Gaithersburg location earlier this month, making it the second Matchbox Food Group restaurant in Montgomery County. There is a Matchbox open on Rockville Pike. This 160-seat Ted’s features a train theme inspired by the original Gaithersburg train station, a historic landmark built in 1884. The restaurant also has a 40-seat outdoor patio…SER (stands for Simple Easy Real), a Spanish-themed restaurant, has opened in Ballston, as the winners of the Ballston Restaurant Challenge…Pizza Studio, the fast-casual, build-your-own pizza concept, plans to open by early March in Baltimore’s Charles Village and in Dupont Circle, its first D.C. location, at 1333 New Hampshire Ave. NW…Orange Anchor at Georgetown’s Washington Harbour, where Cabanas used to be, is now open…The Alex, a lounge and restaurant (named for Alexander Graham Bell) in the Graham hotel in Georgetown, has reopened.

Stanton & Greene will open at 319 Pennsylvania Ave. SE, where Pour House was, on Capitol Hill. The owners include Sonoma’s Eli Hengst and Jared Rager as well as August Paro of Beuchert’s Saloon. The menu is brought to you by executive chef Josh Hutter and chef de cuisine Damian Brown. The cocktail program was created by Erik Holzherr of Wisdom and Church & State. The 180-seat restaurant is named after Capitol Hill’s Stanton Park and the Revolutionary War General Nathanael Greene statue. A first-quarter 2015 opening is planned.

Founding Farmers plans to open its next restaurant in Tysons Corner at 1800 Tysons Blvd. this month. The 262-seat restaurant, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner, is designed by GrizForm Design Architects. It’s owned by a conglomerate that includes the North Dakota Farmers Union and the National Farmers Union.

Chef & Ops Execs Update: Table’s chef de cuisine, Patrick Robinson, will now run the kitchen in the Shaw neighborhood restaurant, taking over from Frederik de Pue. Table will continue to emphasize seasonal dishes. Pizza Studio has hired regional operations veteran Scott Black to oversee the Washington and Baltimore locations. Black previously worked as vice president of operations for &pizza and regional director of operations for Noodles & Co.

To celebrate its 20th anniversary, Georgetown’s Bistrot Lepic will offer a special prix-fixe menu for 20 consecutive days, from Monday, March 9, to Sunday, March 29. Guests will also enjoy a complimentary glass of Champagne.

Linda Roth is president of Linda Roth Associates, a public relations and marketing firm that specializes in the hospitality industry. Reach her at Linda@LindaRothPR.com.

Sallie Lewis • February 11, 2015

As winter winds down, the anticipation for warmer weather has pation for warmer weather has never been higher. Soon, spring and summer sailors will be assembling along the Georgetown waterfront.

And there’s a place that’s opening just in time.

Orange Anchor at Washington Harbour is a new, nautical-themed dining destination that caters to seaward-turning lovers of good food. Owner Reese Gardner – founder of Wooden Nickel Bar Company (Cooperwood Tavern, Irish Whiskey Public House and Second State) – has been boating all his life and wanted to create a space inspired by people coming in straight off the boat. The restaurant even has changing rooms and communal sink stations for washing up.

Inside, the decor is a study in primary colors: orange leather trades off with navy blues and white. Anchor-themed wallpaper contrasts with striped fabrics. Decorative accents such as boat cleats, mirrored portholes, stainless handlebars and steel spotlights all add to the nautical experience.

Large-scale photographs by local artist Mike Foster help set the scene with stunning views of the waterfront. On one wall, a medley of black-and-white boat photos honor members of the National Potomac Yacht Club at the Columbia Island Marina.

The restaurant will specialize in seasonal American plates, from jumbo lump crab fritters to classic clams casino, caviar tacos and lobster macaroni and cheese with a five-cheese blend. Patrons can also eat Chincoteague oysters four different ways: chilled, grilled, fried or on a half-shell filled with Champagne. Most ingredients are sourced from farmers within three hours of D.C. Orange Anchor will also have an “oyster hour,” 5 to 6 p.m., Monday through Friday, with oysters for $1 each.

The bar pro-gram is equally impressive, with a selection of more than 40 rum varieties and 10 beers on draft. Cans of beer are served with a vibrant Orange Anchor koozie.

For the captain looking to get food or ice on the go, Orange Anchor’s boat delivery service will delight. Salads, sandwiches and bags of ice will be available for delivery to those who dock their boat at Washington Harbour. The venue will also have a deckhand on call should you be sailing solo and need help docking.

Orange Anchor will officially open Friday, Feb. 13, with soft openings on Feb. 11 and 12 (those having lunch or dinner on Wednesday or Thursday will receive half off their food and drink tab). Brunch will be served Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. starting Feb. 21. The website is OrangeAnchorDC.com. [gallery ids="101985,135439" nav="thumbs"]

Ari Post • February 2, 2015

In the mid-to-late 20th century, haute cuisine swept Washington, D.C.

Lay the blame on Jacqueline Kennedy, our first lady of cosmopolitan refinement, who so famously brought French culinary traditions to the White House and into vogue (despite her husband, whose tastes were notoriously bourgeoisie américaine).

However, this revolution of the American palate was not without precedent. Washington has a vibrant food history that can be traced from 19th-century taverns—when oysters were cheap and ubiquitous as burgers—through turn-of-the-century tearooms and the supper clubs of Prohibition to opulent midcentury dining rooms like the Willard Hotel, the Occidental Restaurant and the Ebbitt House (now the Old Ebbitt Grill), which modeled themselves on European establishments.

By the 1980s, Georgetown and downtown D.C. were an epicenter of fine dining for the elite. Rive Gauche. La Chaumière. Nathan’s. Citronelle. Jean-Louis at the Watergate. Nathan’s. Sans Souci. Le Pavillon. Le Lion d’Or. These are just a handful of the restaurants – most are gone now — whose Old World elegance and deep-buttoned leather booths welcomed clientele from across the city seeking refinement, comfort and luxury.

Then a gradual but momentous series of events started a culinary revolution. Catalyzed by the information glut of the internet, a combination of health and ingredient consciousness, environmental awareness and a globalized multiculturalism created a new era of more passionate, knowledgeable consumers. Today, we call each other foodies: the many among us who seek new food experiences as destinations, to enrich our senses, bolster our health and broaden our horizons.

Consider free-range meat or poultry, grains like quinoa, Greek yogurt and almond milk, microgreens and whole wheat everything. Twenty years ago, these specialty items were rarely available in restaurants or grocery stores. Now they occupy menus and kitchens across the country.

This seismic epicurean awakening shook the traditional standard of fine dining at its foundation. French and Italian bistros fell to the wayside as gastronomy, concept restaurants, Asian fusion and exotic international cuisine begat a new restaurant boom. As Washington Post food critic Tom Sietsema declared in reference to the closing of the Dining Room at Palena, the lauded Cleveland Park institution, and City Zen in the Mandarin Oriental: “Fine dining was dealt a blow in Washington last year.”

Diners, it seemed, were decidedly focused on new adventures in food.

Mind you, a great deal of good has come out of this trend. It is in many ways a reflection of society itself, and Washington’s culinary evolution is a reflection of what is happening throughout the country. With greater appreciation of food’s cultural significance, chefs today are recognized as creative, intelligent artisans, at once guides to our heritage and defining voices of our future. Cooking is a popular and respected profession for the first time in history, which allows chefs greater opportunities to flourish and to open restaurants that can be singular products of their identity.

In Washington, restaurants like Komi, Little Serow and Rose’s Luxury have attracted national and international acclaim for their innovation and unique culinary perspectives. Komi’s Johnny Monis took Best Chef Mid-Atlantic at the James Beard Awards in 2013. Little Serow was named number seven in the 10 top new restaurants in America by Bon Appétit in 2012. Rose’s Luxury got first place on Bon Appétit’s list of Best New Restaurants in America 2014.

But around the city today, a small, wickedly impressive group of chefs are reviving traditional European standards, combining fresh ideas with the complexity, history and craft of our city’s culinary forebears.

Cementing this revival is none other than Frank Ruta, former chef and owner of Palena, who took over the Grill Room at Georgetown’s Capella hotel on Jan. 2.

Ruta is something of a local legend—the kind of guy you overhear other cooks talk about. Working in a kitchen downtown, I once posed the question to my chef: “Who’s the best chef in the city?” Without a moment’s pause, his eyes and knife still fixed to a half-filleted fish, he said, “Frank Ruta. Get back to work.”

Even as an isolated event, Ruta’s arrival in Georgetown is enough to portend a minor deluge of culinary talent to the neighborhood. But with other likeminded restaurateurs already down the block—including chef Brendan L’Etoile’s Chez Billy Sud, chef Fabio Trabocchi’s Fiola Mare, and Robert Wiedmaier’s newly renovated Marcel’s—it doesn’t seem a far cry to declare Georgetown the heart of a new era of fine dining.

A master of his craft with an exhaustive knowledge of technique, and a tireless cook who oversees every plate that hits the table and makes nearly every food item in house (from the dinner rolls to the mayonnaise), Ruta has made a name for himself as a chef truly synonymous with his kitchen. He also has a reputation for letting his food do the talking—he’s far from hermetic but he keeps a low profile, often deflecting the self-promotion that has developed around the popularization of career cooking.

For me it was always about the food, not the individual…There are so many of us who contribute to a finished plate. I may have been the impetus, but it took everyone, from the front of the house to the prep cooks, to make it happen.

This philosophy is a hard-earned lesson from his professional roots rather than an inherent disdain of publicity. “When I started out around the late ’70s,” he says, “cooks were categorized by the government as laborers, not as professionals.”

Ruta grew up in McKeesport, Pa., a steel-mill town of Polish, Hungarian and Italian immigrants. “My family cooked a lot, but not any more than anybody else in town,” he says. “We had a plum tree, we made a lot of our own sausages, wine. And Sunday dinner was a big deal—as it is with Italians. It was all just part of growing up. But when it came to cooking, it’s just something I loved to do.”

At 16, he started working for a local catering company, and after a brief stint at a nearby restaurant accepted a three-year apprenticeship with the American Culinary Federation.

Ruta chalks up his early career to no more than standard operating procedure. But someone must have noticed him, because at age 21, almost immediately after completing his apprenticeship, he was tapped by first lady Rosalynn Carter to cook in the White House.

He spent the next decade working under legendary White House chefs Henry Haller and Hans Raffert. “These guys were walking encyclopedias of classical cooking,” he says, “and it was instilled within them to pass that knowledge on—they really went out of their way to teach me. And I still think about the things Hans or Haller showed me, or some time that [pastry chef] Roland Mesnier scolded me for screwing something up. They also taught me why you make a dish a certain way, they wouldn’t just say ‘do it.’ Everything was done for a reason. Everything had precedent.”

Working alongside this small group of chefs, as well as maitre d’s and domestic help from the days of Truman and Eisenhower, Ruta learned to be a chef who exists purely and entirely in the arena of the kitchen.

“We didn’t have a mentality that we were out front. You didn’t go starting conversations with the president. And you didn’t talk about it outside of work, either. You just said you were a cook, and back then people would usually leave it at that. Things are a little different today.”

Ruta left the White House in 1987 for Merano, Italy, to work for restaurateur Andreas Hellrigl at Ristorante Andreas. “I wanted to work at an elevated restaurant,” he says (meaning somewhere with a Michelin star). “Just to see what it was like. Back then, all you could do is read about places like that in travel books.”

He found, to his surprise, that he was already at that level—thanks to Haller’s and Raffert’s training—and when Haller retired the following year, Ruta returned to the White House to assume the role of sous chef under Raffert.

After three more years in the White House kitchen, he felt an urge to return to restaurants, with a distant eye toward opening his own. He worked a series of appointments in the ensuing years, mostly with chef Yannick Cam (who now runs the wonderful Bistro Provence in Bethesda).

Once Ruta made the decision to open his own restaurant in 1997, the venture took three years to realize. “People think you open a restaurant and that’s it,” he says, “but even if you have serious financial backing, it takes time.”

Palena opened in 2000, in the Cleveland Park space that once housed chef Carole Greenwood’s eponymous restaurant. In his initial review, Sietsema wrote, “Palena should be required eating for anyone who aspires to cook in this city.”

At Palena, Ruta churned out endless dishes of iconic acclaim: seasonal gnocchi, a truffled cheeseburger, as well as unforgettable renditions of classics like bouillabaisse, mushroom consommé and roast chicken (which guests had to order forty minutes in advance—and did). His plaudits culminated in 2007 when he won the James Beard Award for Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic (shared with Vidalia’s RJ Cooper, who now owns Rogue 24 on N Street NW).

None of this seems to have much affected Ruta, who in retrospect remains unfazed, modest and, frankly, very zen about the whole affair. “We were lucky to have a diligent, passionate, hard-working crew,” he explains with a shrug, quick to credit his team. “We were just back there cooking, doing what we love to do.”

Ruta acknowledges that his kitchen ethics—this heightened awareness of a restaurant as a sort of complex, constantly evolving organism—stem from his White House training, which instilled the value of adhering at all times to a strong foundation.

“If I do something, it has to have precedent,” he says. “If I ate it with my grandparents, learned it from classical cooking or from someone that I worked with—I rely on that anchor. It doesn’t mean we can’t create new things, but it has to pertain to the cooking world and to me, so that I have a way to measure its value or success.”

Palena closed rather suddenly last year, due unfortunately to financial challenges in the wake of the restaurant’s 2010 expansion. Ruta then spent about six months crafting weekly prix-fixe dinners with his Palena partner and pastry chef Aggie Chin and master baker Mark Furstenberg at Mark’s (ridiculously amazing) bakery, Bread Furst. The four-course, family style “Bread Feast” menus, collaboratively conceived and billowing with fresh breads, quickly became one of Washington’s most talked-about dining experiences of 2014. While feeling things out with Capella, this is where Ruta focused his creative energy. “If Capella hadn’t come along,” he says, “we would probably still be doing those dinners.”

Since the beginning of January, Ruta has been slowly fixing his own gears into the existing clockwork of the Grill Room and Rye Bar at Capella. The restaurant has remained open through the transition, so he is developing a new menu while running the current kitchen.

“We’re still in formulation,” he says. “Making a menu is like a game of Tetris—it all has to fit. You’re not making a dish just to fill a slot, it has to make sense why we’re doing that. So we’re using the existing menu as a starting point, slowly evolving it while training the team—except for me, Aggie and the sous chef, we kept the existing staff—getting them to work in a way that’s familiar, the very basics. We’re sort of dismantling everything and starting from the ground up. We don’t want to decorate the cake before we bake it.”

However, guests that come in today can already get small tastes of Ruta’s forthcoming menu, like his seasonal gnocchi, a recipe brought over from Palena. This winter, he is serving it with wild rice and sweet potatoes. Some custom terrines and cooked hams are also available, and more meats—“which need a few more months”—are currently curing in the back. For now, just the idea of it seems enough to satisfy him.

“Capella just seemed like it could be a good fit for the style of cooking we like to do—that spot in between luxury and comfort food. There were dozens of opportunities available, but this one just felt right. I’m still learning the neighborhood, though. I just went to Chez Billy and had a good night there—service was great, food was good. I’m excited to try more places.”

“We have good bones here,” he says, glancingly aware of his offhand culinary metaphor. “The space is beautiful, it’s in Georgetown. I still feel like everything’s in front of me, I’m still trying to get it right. But, really, all I’m going to try to do is cook what I know how to cook.”

Coming from any other chef, that statement would be easy to shrug off. Coming from Ruta, it feels more like an affirmation, fortified by centuries of richly flavored heritage and flush with promise for the future. [gallery ids="101979,135486" nav="thumbs"]

Linnea Kristiansson • January 29, 2015

Restaurant week is here. So, don’t miss your opportunity to book a table and get great lunch and dinner deals. Prices range from $20 to around $35 for three- or four-course meals.

Bistro Lepic Wine Bar

Since 1995, this restaurant has been part of Georgetown’s culinary landscape, consistently ranking as one of the “Ten Best Restaurants” in the country by Bon Appetit and in Zagat’s top 40.
The restaurant offers classic, regional and contemporary French cuisine.

Bistro Lepic is located at 1736 Wisconsin Ave. NW. Call 202-448-1000 to book a table.

Filomena Ristorante

Filomena Ristorante has been one of D.C.’s premier restaurants for 30 years. The restaurant offers authentic Italian cuisine in an elegant atmosphere.

Located at 1063 Wisconsin Ave NW. Call 202-338-8800 for reservations.

Tony & Joes Seafood Place

If you’re in the mood for fresh delicacies from the sea, dive into Tony and Joe’s Seafood Place at the Georgetown Waterfront. While enjoying tempting seafood dishes or even a great Filet Mignon you have spectacular views of the Potomac River, Kennedy Center, Washington Monument, Roosevelt Island and the Key Bridge.

Located at 3000 K St. NW. Call 202-944-4545 to book a reservation.

Ris

Ris is an upscale neighborhood restaurant in West End serving seasonal American cuisine by executive chef / owner Ris Lacoste.

Located at 2275 L St. NW. Call 202-730-2500 to book a table.

The Grill Room

The Grill Room specializes in hand-cut, bone-in, artisan meats, bracingly fresh seafood and tableside preparations.

Located at 1050 31st St. NW Washington, DC 20007. Call 202-617-2424 to reserve a table.

Zengo

A sophisticated blend of Latin-Asian styles and flavors by acclaimed Chef Richard Sandoval, Zengo’s menu is representative of Sandoval’s heritage and his passion for Asian cuisine. Every few months, Zengo unveils a menu as part of its popular “Test Kitchen” feature, which showcases the flavors and cooking techniques from one Latin-American and one Asian country.

Located at 781 7th St. NW. Call 202-393-2929 to book a table.

Jaleo

The restaurant shows a different side of Spain with tapas by José Andrés. From Jan. 19 to Feb. 1, it will feature special menus that showcase signature dishes, perfect for experiencing Jaleo’s authentic Spanish tapas. Hand-selected bottles of wine at a special Restaurant Week price will also be available to pair with regular menus.

Located at 480 7th St. NW. Contact the restaurant at 202-628-7949.

Bombay Club

The Bombay Club emulates characteristics of the old clubs of India. The cuisine is the finest of India, utilizing only the best quality ingredients to create a harmony of subtle flavors. Specialties prepared by Executive Chef Nilesh Singhvi include tandoori salmon and green chili chicken.

815 Connecticut Ave. NW. Call (202) 659-3727 to make a reservation.

Agora

Agora, an ancient Greek term meaning “a gathering place,” is a Mediterranean oasis in Washington, D.C. Executive Chef Ghassan Jarrouj has fused the traditional culinary traditions of the Mediterranean, bringing flavors inspired by the cuisines of Turkey, Lebanon and Greece.

Located at 1527 17th St. NW. Call (202) 332-6767 for reservations.

Other restaurants in Georgetown participating in restaurant week include Fiola Mare, Farmers Fishers Bakers, 1789 Restaurant, Bandolero, Boveda, Cafe Milano, Clyde’s of Georgetown, Daily Grill Georgetown, Degrees, El Centro D.F., La Chaumiere, Mama Rouge, Morton’s, Sea Catch and Unum Restaurant.