Food

Jody Kurash • April 24, 2013

Anyone who has ever been to Mexico has probably been exposed to tequila. Whether it was a watered-down margarita made with low-grade liquor and sour mix at an all-inclusive resort or a glass of quality handcrafted anejo at a high-end lounge, tequila and Mexico seem to go hand–in-hand.

What many outsiders don’t know is that in addition to tequila, Mexico has another similar spirit, and that depending on what state you’re in, is often the more popular option. This sister spirit is mezcal, which is often confused with tequila.

Most people’s exposure to mezcal in the States is limited. If you’ve ever drunk a bottle of “tequila” with a worm in the bottom, you’ve tasted mezcal. The worm is a marketing gimmick which is added to exported bottles. It is rarely sold that way in Mexico.
While I was traveling through the Mexican state of Oaxaca earlier this year, I had a chance to sample many varieties of mezcal.

Both mezcal and tequila are both distilled from fermented agave juice, but the preparation of these spirits is quite different. They are dis- tilled in different regions – tequila in the state of Jalisco, while mezcal is made further south with the majority of it hailing from Oaxaca. Tequila is made from only one kind of agave –blue agave. Mezcal is made from various types.

Mezcal is produced from the heart, or the pina of the agave plant. The pinas are cooked an earthen oven for about three days. This underground baking imparts a smoky flavor. The pinas are later mashed and left to ferment. The distilled liquid is later collected and aged in barrels.

Small producers, using recipes passed down from one generation to the next, make most mezcals. Because of it hand-crafted nature, one can find a variety of flavor and complexity. In Oaxaca, many brands are never sold outside the area where they were produced.

In small villages it is not uncommon to find people distilling and selling mezcal from their homes. These are often sold in recycled tequila bottles with hand-painted labels.

While staying at the laid-back beach haven of Zipolite, I watched one day when as the “mezcal” truck made a stop on the town’s only paved street. Locals formed a queue at back of the truck with empty containers waiting and have them filled. Now, that’s the type of food truck I’d like to see in D.C.!

The taste of mezcal can differ widely as many producers add flavoring agents such as cinnamon, or slices of apple, pineapple or other tropical fruits to the mash, which impart a slight, subtle flavor. (Nowhere near the powerful taste of the mostly artificially flavored spirits popular in the U.S.) Often, at the end of the distillation, a piece of the flavoring agent is added to the bottle. For example, when I bought mezcal distilled with chobocano, the bottle contained seeds from the fruit. Another common practice is adding a piece of the agave leaf to the bottle.

The quality of mezcal also widely varies. The age of both is measured the same way. Either can be made from 100-percent agave or a majority agave mixed with other ingredients. A white or clear liquid indicates a spirit with little aging, while dark un-aged liquor with added coloring is called dorado.

Mezcal or tequila that has been aged between at least two months to a year in a barrel is called reposado while anything aged over a year is anejo. Some of the best are aged from 2-4 years.

The biggest difference between mezcal and tequila is its distinctive smoky favor, almost akin to smoky single malt scotch. Mezcal’s alcoholic proof is generally stronger than tequila, which is usually watered down to conform to the 80-proof standard in the States.
While most Mexicans prefer to drink mezcal straight, I found it to be a stimulating alterna- tive to a tequila-based margarita. The strong smokiness works as an excellent complement to the tart lime.

In the U.S., the most popular brand of mezcal is Monte Alban, but if you have access to a quality liquor store there are much better alternatives. I recommend either Sacacuento or Mezcal Del Maguey.?

MEZCAL MARGARITA
•1 1/2 oz mezcal?
•1/2 agave nectar?
•1 oz fresh lime juice
?Mix ingredients well in a cocktail shaker with ice. If desired, salt the rim of your glass. Pour contents, with ice, into glass. Garnish with lime wedge.

Shari Sheffield •

When spring rolls around rebirth and change is in the air. Our palates desire change too. The heavy red wines of winter we so enjoyed when the temperature dipped give way to thoughts of lighter refreshing crisp white wines.

When spring comes fragrant flowers bloom. Everything turns greener and our food menus do too. Selecting white wines to go the spring menus become a focus. There are plenty of options ranging from French style chardonnays to light pinot grigio. Properly chilled, sometimes there cannot be anything more refreshing and palate pleasing in warm weather then a glass of white wine.

Here are a few white wine recommendations to quench your thirst and please your palates and your nose this spring.

TORRENTES
Torrentes is from South America. It is a moderate acidic and smooth textured white normally. When I think of the flavors of Torrentes, I think of peach and apple flavors and a wine reminiscent of Muscat or Gewürztraminer. Some top Torrentes is produced by Bodega Colome in Argentina. Try the 2011 vintage. This wine is floral. It will remind you of a fresh cut flower bouquet. The floral note will again appear upon tasting but the dominant flavors are orange, nectarine, white peaches, and lime. This wine has a long pleasing finish. It will pair beautifully with delicate white-fleshed fishes, shrimp, lobster and foods seasoned with Asian spices.

Also try Hermanos Torrentes. Its pale green tint and its delicate fruity aroma will draw you in. It will remind you of fresh cut grass. On the palate its quince, kiwi, lime zest flavors come through. Pair with grilled Mahi Mahi, pork loin, and white pizza.

ALBARINO
Found predominantly in northwest Spain and Portugal this a lightly gold colored wine with a tinge of green. It is aromatic, high in acid and a full-bodied wine. It will pair well with heavier meat based spring and summer dishes or can be sipped alone.
Marques de Caceres Deusa Nai Albarino 2011 is a good example of Albarino. On the nose it will remind you of melon. Citrus flavors like lemon and lemon zest along with pineapple and slight minerality should please you. Finish is fairly long. Acidity is refreshing. Pair this with Serrano ham, shrimp, and grilled calamari and coconut cream pie.

SOAVE
Soave is an Italian light, dry white wine. It is lighter then Albarino but also expresses floral notes. Soave is found in the Vento region of Italy and is comprised of traditionally a blend of two grapes, garganega and trebbiano. It comes in several levels of quality. Seek out Soave Classico or a higher quality for optimal enjoyment.

Pieropan, Soave Classico La Rocca is gold- en yellow in hue. Its keenly expressive floral notes persist to the palate upon tasting this wine. This is a traditional styled Soave in that the classic honey, vanilla, almond flavors show up along the peach and apricots notes. There is a slight mineral component to its taste that adds to this rather straightforward wine’s complexity.
Also try a higher quality Soave like Gini Soave Classico La Froscà. This Soave also expresses strong but pleasant aromatics immediately. You will taste that classic almond essence along with baked or dried fruits like baked apple and candied orange peel. There’s a flash of mineral essence that cuts through the fruit flavors and provides a nice complexity as well. Pair your glasses of Soave with cream of summer corn soup, chowders, flounder, trout, and clams.

So welcome in spring with these aromatic and refreshing whites and you will transition into a new season feeling lighter without comprising flavor. Cheers! Enjoy!
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Georgetowner •

The Dublin, Ireland-based **Ri Ra** will add a new location and a new concept to its growing metropolitan D.C. base of operations. When it takes over the **Mie N Yu** space on M Street in Georgetown, it will bring not only its Irish energy, but an Irish chef who is developing a full service upscale menu, punctuating Ri Ra?s latest evolution into the restaurant scene. It will also feature a state-of-the-art whiskey bar featuring 150 different whiskeys, supplemented by an authoritative whiskey program.

***Chef Update:*** Marjorie Meek-Bradley has taken over executive chef duties at **Ripple** in Cleveland Park. She worked previously with Mike Isabella at **Graffiato** and for Thomas Keller at Per Se in NYC. Chef Greg McCarty will head the kitchen at Ashok Bajaj?s newest venture, **NOPA Kitchen & Bar** where **Zola?s** was on F Street in Penn Quarter. McCarty?s credentials include **Jean-Georges** and **Nobu Fifty Seven** in NYC. **La Tasca Spanish Tapas Bar & Restaurant** has announced the appointment of Josu Zubikarai as their new executive chef, overseeing culinary operations for all five of the company?s restaurants: Washington, D.C., Arlington and Alexandria, Va., Rockville, Md. and Baltimore. Zubikarai was the opening chef for **Taberna del Alabardero** in Washington, DC in 1989. Ashley Soto has been named executive pastry chef at the new **Farmers Fishers Bakers**. She used to work for Black Restaurant Group?s **Pearl Dive Oyster Bar**. She manages pastries offered at the new **FirstBake** bakery and coffee shop within the restaurant. Carrie Jenkins, who briefly managed the pastry program at Farmers Fishers Bakers, has been promoted to executive pastry chef for **Founding Farmers** in downtown D.C.

**Karl Graham**, of the defunct New York Avenue Beach Bar, is in partnership with **Hogo and The Passenger** owner Tom Brown (Derek?s brother) to open **The Elroy**, named for the young son in The Jetsons cartoon from yester-year, so think ?futuristic.? It will be in the ever burgeoning H Street corridor, as 1423 H St NE. Karl is a general contractor, so that should be a big advantage. A June opening is planned.

Aaron Tootill is the executive chef at **The Bench** restaurant opening at the Gaithersburg Marriott Washington Center in the Rio Washingtonian Center, this spring. The restaurant will be contemporary American. Tootill was opening chef for **Fire & Sage** at Marriott Metro Center in downtown D.C. A spring opening is planned.

**Capitol Prague Restaurant** will open where **Morso** was at M and Prospect Streets in Georgetown. It will also operate a coffee shop nearby. The cuisine is Czech and Slovak: think schnitzel and dumplings. It will offer Czech Republic beers hard to find anywhere else. An April opening is planned.

Kelley Hudak • April 16, 2013

P.J. Clarke’s, at the corner of 16th and K Streets, NW, welcomed the start of patio-perfect weather with an outdoor soiree April 9. While the celebration overflowed with the after-work crowd, the wait staff provided quick, consistent service that added to a breezy, relaxed atmosphere. After all, P.J. Clarke’s has been nominated for a RAMMY award as “Power Spot of the Year,” and it wants your vote.

The restaurant also introduced a new signature oyster variety and enlisted the help of guests to name it. The new oyster variety will be called “The Clarke’s Select.” Locally harvested from the Eastern Shore of Virginia and finished in the waters surrounding the Assateague Island, the oysters are a premium “cocktail size” with a robust brininess and a clean, mild and sweet finish. This new menu item comes from the War Shore Oyster Company, which recently partnered with P.J. Clarke’s to provide the freshest possible farm-to-table product. The high-quality taste did not go unnoticed as party-goers went through more than 2,500 oysters.

The oysters are available — while they last — for 50 cents each on Tuesdays, 5 p.m. to 8 p.m., paired with a D.C. Brau on special for $3.50.

P.J. Clarke’s is also home to the exclusive basement restaurant and bar, Sidecar. The four locations in Washington, New York, Chicago and Sao Paulo, Brazil, provide members with a cozy, private experience, open only to those with the black embossed membership card. While member identities are mostly kept secret, notable card-holders include Johnny Depp, Keith Richards and Liza Minnelli.

Membership is obtained only by referral by an existing member. When entering by way of secret door to Sidecar, portraits of presidents and white tablecloths await you as well as a preferential menu.

The P.J.’s experience and ambiance caters to whichever is preferred by its customers — be it a lively patio, upstairs bar mixer or a low-key, speakeasy scene below.
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Nico Dodd • April 10, 2013

No one does lunch quite like our publisher, Sonya Bernhardt. With years on D.C.’s restaurant scene under her belt, she is quick with any recommendation for a hungry foodie. Our new column, “Let’s Do Lunch” takes us to new venues for tastes and culinary experiences. For our first installment, oUur office went to Union Market in Northeast Washington, D.C.

Union Market is the newest space for an authentic marketplace experience in the nation’s capital. Featuring over 40 different venders, the market is sure to have some- thing for everyone.

Drawing from the market’s history, dating back to 1931, development firm EDENS renovated the market and reopened it in September 2012.

Shoppers can choose from many different organic and artisan wares, from fresh pickles to handsoap, which our publisher’s husband, Wally, proudly endorses. Not married yet? We think Union Market would be a fun place to go on a date. You can choose from flowers, chocolate, or many dessert choices to treat your special someone.

Eaters can please their palates with a variety of cuisines, including quality treats at D.C Mediterranean Corner and eco-conscious oys- ters from Rappahannock Oyster Co. In addition, many of D.C.’s food truck favorites are offering their food indoors, like D.C. Empanadas, Curbside Cupcakes and TaKorean.

The operative word of Union Market’s offerings is “fresh.” If you like everything fresh, including your milk, this is the place to be.
Located at 1309 5th Street, NE, near Florida Avenue, the market is open Wednesday through Friday from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., and Saturday and Sunday from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Visit UnionMarketDC.com for more information.? [gallery ids="101178,142766,142778,142759,142783,142753,142788,142746,142794,142772" nav="thumbs"]

Nico Dodd •

1789 Restaurant
1226 36th St. NW Washington, D.C. (202) 965-1789. Easter Day brunch includes a guest appearance of the Easter Bunny at each table delivering candy for children. Celebrate the holiday with a festive three-course brunch or an a la carte dinner. Entree prices range from $28-36.

Al Dente
3201 New Mexico Avenue, NW, Washington, D.C. (202) 244-2223. Al Dente is offering a family style menu for $39.95 that includes first and second courses, an entrée and dessert. The restaurant will be open from 11:30 a.m. – 8:30 p.m.

Billy Martin’s Tavern
1264 Wisconsin Ave. NW, Washington, D.C. (202) 333-7370. Martin’s will be offering a special Easter brunch menu for $30 from 8 a.m. – 4 p.m.

Bistro Francais
3124-48 M St. NW, Washington, D.C. (202) 338-3830. Celebrate Easter at Bistro Francais with Champagne Brunch a la carte 11 a.m. – 4 p.m. Regular menu also available for both Lunch & Dinner

Bistrot Lepic & Wine Bar
1737 Wisconsin Ave. NW, Washington, D.C. (202) 333-0111. Bistrot Lepic is offering an Easter Brunch special priced at $49.95.

Cafe Milano
3251 Prospect St. NW Washington, DC. (202) 333-6183. Easter brunch, made to order omelets and Italian cuisine, $95 per adult, $25 ages 6-12.

Chadwick’s
3205 K Street NW, Washington, D.C. (202) 333-2565. Chadwick’s offers Sunday brunch from 11:3 a.m. to 3:45 p.m. priced at $22. Be sure to make reservations.

Clyde’s of Georgetown
3236 M Street NW, Washington, D.C. (202) 333-9180. Clyde’s will be offering its regular brunch menu as well as spring menu items.

Nick’s Riverside Grill
3050 K Street N.W., Washington D.C. 20007. (202) 342-3535. Nick’s Riverside Grill will be offering a two course, prix fixe brunch for $18.95 that includes two courses. Available from 11-3 p.m.

Peacock Cafe
3251 Prospect St. NW, Washington, D.C. (202) 625-2740. Peacock Café will be offering its regular brunch menu.

Tombs
1226 36th St NW, Washington, D.C. (202) 337-6668. Don’t forget about free coffee cake on Sundays at Tombs.

Adour at St. Regis
923 16th St. NW Washington, DC (202) 509-8000. Four-course menu $90 per person, $40 per child.

The Colonnade
The Fairmont Washington DC. 2401 M St. NW Washington, DC. (202) 429-2400. Easter brunch buffet, $99 per adult; $49.50 per child age 6-12.

Roof Terrace Restaurant & Bar
The John F. Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts. 2700 F St. NW Washington, DC (202)416-8555. Brunch from 11 a.m. until 2 p.m. Take your picture with the Easter Bunny and receive a special treat. Enjoy a special Easter brunch with skyline views of the Potomac River. $39.95 for adults and $20.00 for children.

Tabard Inn
1739 N St. NW Washington, DC (202) 833-2668. A la carte Easter brunch in a quaint hotel setting near the White House.

Bistro Vivant
1394 Chain Bridge Road in McLean, VA (703) 356-1700. A la carte menu with Easter specials. Prices range from $12 to $22 for appetizers, $24 to $26 for entrées and $11 to $12 for desserts.

BRABO by Robert Wiedmaier
1600 King Street Alexandria, VA. (703) 894-3440. Easter brunch buffet $55 per adult, $15 per child.

Gary Tischler •

To some minds, Easter seems like an easy sermon for any Christian minister, priest or even motivational speaker. This particular Sunday is rich with the resonant metaphors and reality of resurrection, of rising again.

Still, so rich a palate could present a challenge for the making of sermons. You wonder how the Reverend Camille Cook Murray at the Georgetown Presbyterian Church will deal with it at a time when not just Catholics but Presbyterians and the whole denominational spectrum of Christendom and the community of faith rejoice in Easter–along with the arrival of a new pope–in perilous times.

You can guess that the Rev. Murray, who has rejuvenated one of Washington’s oldest religious communities and congregations with her youth, intelligence and connectivity since becoming its pastor in 2010 will find ways to bring in heaven and earth and stories, communities both celestial and just around the corner.

“In scripture, we find that the apostles were told that the tomb was open, and they ran to the tomb, because they wanted to see for themselves,” Murray said. “And this is what we must do with faith in our time—we can’t simply adopt it because our parents or our grandparents did. It is something we must come to see, discover, feel and live for ourselves. I am calling my sermon, ‘Seeing for Myself.’ “

Since her arrival in 2010, the church and Murray herself (her maiden name is Cook) have been blessed with major and positive changes. Her youthful presence—she is 31-years-old but looks younger—and her outward looking, embracing vision matched to an impressive intellect and resume—have buoyed the historic and venerable congregation to a notable increase in membership, many of them skewing younger. Murray herself had a notable change in her life: she married Scotsman Roddy Murray the summer of 2012, and they now own a house in Georgetown.

I suspect talking theology with Murray would be both stimulating and challenging because as senior pastor, she’s seems both obviously spiritual and grounded, philosophical and pragmatic. She is passionate about running and reminds you that she ran in the recent Rock and Roll marathon. “Three hours, 54 minutes,” she says emphatically.

The healthy athleticism probably stems from growing up in Minnesota with three brothers. The outward-reaching aspects of her vision probably comes from her parents—her father came from a Presbyterian family, her mother’s was Roman Catholic. She studied medicine at Vanderbilt University, changed her major and life and enrolled in the Princeton Theological Seminary. She spent time at the Madison Avenue Presbyterian Church in New York, had a year at Oxford University and after being ordained was appointed associate minister at St. Columba’s Church in London in 2007.

Her professional story line is impressive, but it’s her vision that must have been just as telling to others. Last year, at Eastertide, she outlined her vision to the congregation which included this: “I imagine our church being a place for its people to see God, minister to each other and reach out to others in the world.”

Georgetown Presbyterian Church dates back to 1780, and venerable is a good word for the solid church at 3115 P St., NW. But if you should take in a Sunday service as we did last summer, you note that how the venerable is part of a seamless tapestry not just of history but of the present. Sitting in the back, you notice the presence of numerous young children, who are restless with the spirit of just being there and you see former public officials, including an attorney general, a secretary of defense, a national security adviser.

“This is part of the history of this congregation, that it’s members believe in service and live a life of service,” Murray said.
Just from reading a series of titles of her sermons, it’s hard not to see that you are entering territory that claims the transcendent and the prosaic as kin. That kinship provides both energy and solace. It can call you home. Or, in the case of Pastor Murray, it can breathe new life into a church that she makes feel like home.

Nico Dodd •

For this issue?s lunch, we stayed close to home and went to Caf? Bonaparte, a Georgetown favorite that first opened its doors in 2003. On a chilly Friday afternoon, it was packed and buzzing with people dining. The caf? does not take reservations, so be prepared.

We were impressed by their well-selected wine list and personal service. We tried the full gamut of the menu, including delicious mussels, asparagus risotto, calamari, French onion soup, and, of course, crepes. From the French fries and French onion soup to the last drop of the French press, we loved Caf? Bonaparte.

Finally, we sampled three different desserts, the best of which was–the Napoleon–coinidentally the name of Cafe Bonaparte?s sister restaurant, Napoleon Bistro & Lounge in Adams Morgan. Another restaurant, Malmaison, specializing in music and art, will be opening soon at 3401 K St., NW.

*For more information on Caf? Bonaparte, call (202) 333-8830 or visit NapoleonDC.com. Caf? Bonaparte, 1522 Wisconsin Ave., NW, Washington, D.C. 20007.*

Nico Dodd • March 12, 2013

For this issue?s lunch, we visited Range, Bryan Voltaggio?s latest, in the newly renovated Chevy Chase Pavilion. Under the pavilion?s large skylight, the restaurant is lit by a lot of natural light. We were interested in how the restaurant would look at night. The interior is decorated in palatial tans with modern opalescent soft leather seating and includes a sweet shop and a cookware shop. Diners have a full view of the kitchen, and bathrooms don?t disappoint.

As for the food, our favorites were the soup, tagliatelle. Everything we ordered had lots of savory flavors. Our dessert was a fluffy combination of chocolate and caramel corn with caramel ice cream.

The contemporary, casual vibe of the restaurant gels well with the small-plate concept. Diners can choose a few items to share, or stick to a pre-fixe menu. This is no place to be stiff. You?ve got to loosen your tie, share the dish you ordered and try something your table-mate ordered. Music was curated towards modern indie rock, with tracks from Band of Horses, Bloc Party and the Pixies among those we heard during our meal. Accordingly, serving staff are uniformly dressed in Converse Chuck Taylors.

***Range is located at 5335 Wisconsin Ave., NW, Washington, D.C. 20015. Make a reservation at [www.voltrange.com](http://www.voltrange.com)***