Cocktail of the MonthMarch 13, 2013

March 12, 2013

Aside from being a literary genius, Ernest Hemingway is also known for his legendary drinking habits. Evidence of his fondness for the bottle can be found throughout the world.

In Havana, the El Floridita erected a statue of Hemingway at the bar where he consumed his favorite papa doble Daiquiris. The author loved the bar at the Paris Ritz so much that when they renovated it in the 1990s, they named it after him. In Key West, visitors from across the globe flock to Sloppy Joe?s bar for the annual Hemingway look-alike contest, part of the island?s Hemingway Days celebration.

Many of Hemingway?s favorite tipples make appearances in his written works. In ?The Sun Also Rises,? the main character Jake Barnes drinks a Jack Rose in Paris while waiting for Lady Brett Ashley. In ?A Farewell to Arms,? Hemingway describes martinis as ?cool and clean? and in ?Islands in the Stream,? he mentions two of original concoctions: the Green Isaac?s Special, named for the Isaac Islands in the Bahamas, and the papa doble Daiquiri.

While much has been written about Hemingway, Phil Greene, a Washington resident and founding member of the Museum of the American Cocktail, has managed to capture another side of this prolific man. Greene?s book, ?To Have and Have Another,? is a historical account and collection of drink recipes based on the writer?s life and work. Greene focuses on Hemingway?s peculiar drinking habits and written descriptions of food and drink.

Greene, who discovered Hemingway in high school, says he ?was drawn to him for his style of writing, the vivid and compelling way he described scenes, people, food and drink, so much so that you could see, feel and taste what the characters were seeing, feeling, etc.?

As far as his interest in cocktails, you could say he was born into it. Greene is a descendant of Antoine Peychaud, the New Orleans pharmacist who created Peychaud?s Bitters and is credited with inventing the Sazerac, which was declared the official cocktail of New Orleans by the Louisiana legislature in 2008.

These two interests collided while Green was in his 20s. ?I sought to learn more about beer, wine and cocktails, I naturally took notice when Hemingway wrote about them,? he says ?When I encountered a drink I?d never seen or tasted before, the Jack Rose, absinthe, the Fine a l?Eau, Chambery Cassis, etc., I wanted to know what he/his characters were drinking. As a cocktail historian, it was a natural that I?d want to dig a little deeper here.?

?And finally, all through my 20s and 30s I wanted to write like Hemingway,? Greene recounts, ? By the time I reached my 40s, I figured I might as well write about Hemingway.?

Greene?s book is filled with interesting anecdotes about Hemingway?s preferred drinks. For example, he was not a fan of sweet drinks. ?For the Daiquiri,? Greene writes, ?he didn?t want sugar in his drinks (likely because he was diabetic), so he called for just a touch of maraschino liqueur in its place, and also added grapefruit juice to the usual lime juice.

Hemingway liked his martini ice cold. Greene describes the way he ?froze the glasses, made giant ice cubes at 20 degrees below zero using metal tennis ball cans, he froze his cocktail onions so they?d help keep the drink cold.?

Most of Greene?s research was done by scouring through Hemingway?s writings, biographies and letters. He traveled to Key West to interview Hemingway?s friends and children of friends and to Boston, where the Hemingway Collection is housed within the JFK Presidential Library.

Even if you are not a Hemingway buff, this book is full of interesting tidbits that make it a delightful read. ?I?d like to think there?s something for everyone,? Green says ?biography, literature, drinks recipes, folklore, pop culture, great old photos and ads, you name it.? The book is available at local stores including Politics & Prose, Kramerbooks, Barnes & Noble, Salt & Sundry and Coco Blanca.

**Green Isaac?s Special**
-2 oz. Gin
-4 oz. green coconut water
-1 oz. lime juice
-4 drops Angostura Bitters
-Fill highball glass with ice, add all ingredients, stir, serve. Optional garnish, wedge of lime.

To learn about upcoming events with Greene, visit [www.museumoftheamericancocktail.org](http://www.museumoftheamericancocktail.org)

The Latest DishFebruary 13, 2013

February 13, 2013

**Rose?s** Luxury is slated to open in second quarter 2013 in D.C.?s Barracks Row. Chef-owner is Aaron Silverman, who previously worked at **McCrady?s** in Charleston, and **Aldea** and **Momofuku Noodle Bar** in New York City. It will be a fixed price menu ($46) offering something cold, something warm, pasta, veggies & stuff, meat and a separate dessert menu. The upstairs dining space will be higher (literally) at $90 per person. No rules on how many courses to order.

Ivan Iricanin, who hails from Serbia, just opened a new Balkan restaurant, **Ambar**, in the popular Barracks Row neighborhood at of Rakija, at 523 8th Street, SE. Ambar spans two floors in 3,000 square feet and has a 700 square-foot outdoor patio on the second floor. Richard Sandoval is a partner with Iricanin in Ambar (as he is with Masa 14 and El Centro D.F. on 14th Street, NW) and is helping to develop the Balkan Mediterranean-inspired menu. Ambar is a Serbian name for a Balkan building for drying maize (corn). Iricanin?s hometown of Trstenik, Serbia, is known as the Land of Wine Goddesses, so the restaurant will offer imported Balkan wines and beer, as well as several types of Rakija, a fermented fruit brandy that is popular in Serbia.

Baltimore-based **Attman?s Delicatessen** has plans to open in Potomac, Md. Owner Marc Attman predicts an April opening date for the deli in the Cabin John Shopping Center on Seven Locks Road. D.C. has always been a strong market for Attman?s, as 80 percent of the deli?s catering business comes from D.C. As a Baltimore girl, I look forward to the opening of Attman?s closer to my D.C. home.

Former Shaw?s Tavern general manager Reza Akhavan has plans to open an upscale casual restaurant focused on local, seasonal ingredients at 917 5th St., NW, this March. It may or may not be called Success. A chef has not been named yet, but the food will have European and Mediterranean influ- ences. There will also be 12 taps for beer plus wine and cock- tails. The 85-seat spot (including bar seating) will have an industrial- style interior design. Further down the line, Akhavan hopes to open a roof deck.

**Chef Update:** Takeshi Nishikawa will be the new chef at **New Heights** in Woodley Park. Previously he worked at Bryan Voltaggio?s Volt in Frederick as well as **Restaurant Eve** in Old Town, Alexandria. He replaces Ron Tanaka, who will be opening his own place with Sherman Golden of Maple, called **Thally**. It will be located at 1316 9th St., NW. A spring opening is planned.

*Linda Roth Conte is president of Linda Roth Associates, Inc (LRA) Contact Linda at 703-417-2700 or linda@lindarothpr.com or visit her web site at www.lindarothpr.com*

Restaurant Week Returns Next Week

February 7, 2013

Restaurant Week hits D.C. Feb. 4 through Feb. 10, once again inviting food lovers to enjoy affordable three-course meals at top-notch restaurants.

This semiannual culinary celebration, presented by Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington, is known throughout the region for some great deals: prix fixe $20.13 lunches and $35.13 dinners that are generally pricey, comparably. It entices people to explore the growing restaurant scene and take advantage of fine dining experiences they otherwise might not.

More than 240 restaurants will participate this year, offering diverse cuisine from D.C.-metro area neighborhoods, including parts of Northern Virginia and Maryland. More than 20 Georgetown establishments will partake in the program, with menus representing flavors from Mexico, Italy, Spain, France and Latin America.

The Georgetown spots include:

1789 Restaursant

Bistro Francais

Bistrot Lepic & Wine Bar

Bodega Spanish Tapas & Lounge

Cafe Milano

Clyde’s of Georgetown

Farmers Fishers Bakers

Filomena Ristorante

Il Canale

La Chaumiere

M Street Bar & Grill

Morton’s The Steakhouse-Georgetown

Neyla Restaurant

Nick’s Riverside Grill

Ristorante Piccolo

Sea Catch

Thunder Burger & Bar

Tony & Joe’s Seafood Place

Unum Restaurant

A full list of member restaurants is available on the new Restaurant Week website: ramw.org/restaurantweek. RAMW President Kathy Hollinger said that the association worked hard to create a site that effectively provides potential consumers with important event information.

And do we need to add this advice? Make reservations now or as early as possible.

Valentine’s Day Reservations

February 1, 2013

1789 Restaurant
Bringing together modern, local ingredients and old country charm, 1789 is offering a shortened version of their full menu, including sustainable seafood, like lobster from Rock Hill, Maryland, and dry aged beef from the Shenandoah Valley Beef Co-Op.

Bistrot Lepic
The “Grand Little” restaurant in upper Georgetown serves up classic French cuisine, with an extensive wine bar. The Valentine’s Day menu features duck, lamb, seafood, and a vegetarian option alongside a range of appetizers, with an optional cheese course. Starting at $69.95 per person.

Sea Catch Restaurant
Overlooking the Chesapeake & Ohio canal, Sea Catch provides a more casual atmosphere. They are serving up a four-course prix fixe dinner menu featuring some of their famous seafood, at $75 a person. All weekend couples can enjoy an ‘aphrodisiac starters kit,’ for $30, including two glasses of Prosecco and a dozen oysters.

Bistro Francais
Dine on classic French cuisine and homemade pastries at the award-winning Bistro Francais. Open until 3a.m. on Valentine’s Day, the award winning restaurant is offering a three course special menu all weekend long, as well as their a la carte menu.

Bourbon Steak
Just off the lobby of the Four Seasons, Bourbon Steak is a classic steak and seafood with a modern twist, all envisioned by James Beard award winner, Michael Mina. For $95 a person, Bourbon Steak offers a three-course meal that includes soup or salad, a selection of entrees and fabulous desserts.

Café Milano
A favorite of celebrities, the famed Italian restaurant will be serving their complete a la carte menu as well as a four course prix-fixe tasting menu, starting at $75 per person. Also, enter for a chance to win round trip airfare for two to Italy!

Blues Alley
If you are in the mood for a show on Valentine’s Day, check out Blues Alley’s dinner and a show package featuring Rock and Roll Hall of Fame inductee, Jerry “The Iceman” Butler. $100 per person.

Paolo’s Ristorante
Traditional Italian made California fresh, Paolo’s is known for its pizza and pasta. Featuring a three-course prefixed menu, $100 per couple, add a bottle of Stellina Prosecco or Poema Cava for just $25 more.

Neyla
A melting pot of Mediterranean foods, Neyla’s three-course prix fixe menu includes steak, lamb, sea bass, and a vegetarian option along with a starter and dessert. For $75 a person, chocolate dipped strawberries and a glass of champagne are complimentary.

Morton’s
The renowned steakhouse will be serving their full dinner menu, as well as offering a steak and lobster special for only $49.95. Also, check out their Valentine’s Day cocktail, The Red Velvet. The cocktail and steak and lobster menu are available Feb. 13-16.
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Wine-Lover’s Luxury Gift Guide

December 14, 2012

If you have an especially good wine lover on your holiday shopping list this year, here are some luxurious wine-themed gifts to present to the discriminating wine lover this holiday season. Why not spoil them or yourself with a little bit of luxury? Cheers and Happy Holidays!

Agassi Venetian Wine Tumblers
These whimsical colorful hand blown Venetian wine glasses, a.k.a. gotos, come in a set of six and are designed by Italian artist Massimo Lunardo. The tumblers feature undulating shapes and confetti swirls making each glass unique and the set one of a kind. These are available at online at www.uncommongoods.com
Price: $330 for a set of six.

Cristofle Silver K+T Collection 2-Bottle Wine Cooler
Made for two champagne bottles or one magnum. Born out of a collaboration of chef Thomas Keller and architect Adam Tihany for the venerable French house of Cristofle. Stands 8.5 inches and silver-plated. Price: $1,700. Contact www.fxdougherty.com or www.cristofle.com; 800-834-3797.

Surcouf Steamer Trunk Bar
This croc-embossed leather steamer trunk will be the center of attention in any room. It is sure to impress your wine lover. It is made with a rosewood finish on the wood, bone drawer pulls and brass hardware. The bar features noble, sustainably sourced materials by Starbay. Available online through www.onekingslane.com
Price $3,199.

William Yoeward Lead Crystal Engraved “Camila” Wine and Champagne Glasses
Coveted crystal of William Yeoward marries English and Irish crystal tradition, modern sensibility and an antique aesthetic. The small intricate floral pattern with the vertical cuts in its “Camilla” stemware makes it one of the house’s most popular. Sizes to gift include goblets, large wine glasses and champagne flutes. Made in England. Prices for the “Camila” design start at approximately $260. Available at A Mano, 1677 Wisconsin Ave., NW — 202-298-7200. Also at Neiman Marcus stores. Visit www.neimanmarcus.com for specific store information.

Grape Crate-Curated Wine Subscription Service
D.C. native Alex Clifford, and a rotating panel of D.C. wine experts, meticulously taste and select a case (12 bottles) of wine. It is then packaged beautifully and delivered to your home. Crates are seasonal and currently include the Grape Crate, Christmas Dinner Crate and New Year’s Eve Crate. Orders for December crates mentioned close Dec. 17, 2012. If you miss them, sign up for their email list and you’ll be right in line to enjoy 2013’s offerings. Kosher Crate and the Easter Brunch Crate are planned for 2013. www.grapecrate.com Price $200 per crate.

Screaming Eagle’s Cabernet Sauvignon, 1992 (Napa Valley, California)
This wine is a powerhouse among Cabernet. This vintage is unfined, unfiltered and aged in 60-percent new oak. It was originally sold only via a mailing list. Lush dark fruit flavors like dark plumbs and cassis mingle with chocolate flavors. The 1992 vintage is cult-worthy. If the price tag is a little steep at $7,000 per bottle, just about any vintage of Screaming Eagle will delight a Cab drinker. Available at www.wine.com

A “Singular” French Burgundy
One bottle of 2008 Domaine de La Romanee-Conti Romanee-Conti. This French burgundy (Pinot Noir) comes from a producer and appellation that are among the very best in the world. Vintages of Romanee-Conti are renowned. The 2008 is no exception. Note the Oriental spice, raspberry, and rose petal aromas as well as a long finish. Coveted and sought after, a bottle of the 2008 can be yours for approximately $3,099.00 or $38,000.00 a case (if you can find one). Try: www.thegourmetgrape.com

Remember That One Time At Wine Camp?
Send your wine lover to a wine camp like Sonoma Grape Camp, Sept. 23 through 25, 2013. According to its website, “You’ll spend three blissful days picking grapes and blending your own wine with your very own hands” in Sonoma, Calif. Master winemakers will teach participants. Tours and dinning in a Michelin Star restaurant round out your stay. Contact Sonoma Grape Camp at 707-522-5864 to reserve. For more information, visit www.sonomagrapecamp.com Price: $2,000 per person. [gallery ids="102575,119935,119914,119921,119929,119940,119952,119946" nav="thumbs"]

The Latest DishDecember 12, 2012

December 13, 2012

**John Fulchino** of Johnny?s Half Shell and **Ann Cashion** of Taqueria Nacionale (next door) have come out winners, taking over the space at 1407 T St., NW. It was supposed to be the Post Office Bistro, operated by a New York company, but instead it will become a much bigger **Taqueria Nacional**. The old post office fa?ade will remain, and the large space will be divided into three areas inside. It will offer favorites ? authentic tacos, juices made fresh daily and tasty margaritas. The current Taqueria Nacional, next to Johnny?s Half Shell, will now become a take-out place for Fulchino?s food. It should be open by the time you read this.
**Chef Update: Juan Natal** has been named executive chef of **14K Restaurant & Lounge** in the Hamilton Crowne Plaza Hotel at 14th & K Streets, NW. Previously, he worked at Hawks Cay Resort and Villas in Duck Key, Fla. He was also executive chef for Pienza Italian Market at the Gaylord National Hotel?. Tony Conte has been promoted to group executive chef of Oval Room & 701 Restaurant. His has two new chefs de cuisine: **Lucas Sousa** will work with Conte at **701**, and **James Barton** is at the **Oval Room**. Barton and Sousa graduated from the CIA in Hyde Park, N.Y.
**Correction (sort of):** Without the ??? it?s hard to separate the Quick Hits so please know that the new Sprig & Sprout in Glover Park is a Pho and Vietnamese sandwich shop. It is not a Mexican restaurant, which was in reference to the next item in my October column about Riscatta.
America will always love hamburgers. **Burger 21**, a new fast-casual concept from Tampa-based **Front Burner Brands**, which also brought us the Melting Pot Restaurants, has signed franchisees to open four new Burger 21s in Fairfax and Montgomery counties. The franchisees: **Joseph Yu, Bubuhai, Ray** and **Nick Patel**, will develop the local outlets in Alexandria, Tysons Corner, Fair Lakes and Rockville. They know the franchise biz, as they also have Dunkin? Brands franchises. There are 10 franchised restaurants in development along the East Coast.
**Recent Openings: TAAN** is now open in Adams Morgan? **Hanoi House**, a new Vietnamese concept in the U Street Corridor just opened where Blackbyrd Warehouse used to be. **James Claudio**, executive chef of Marvin, draws from the experience and talent of his Vietnamese grandmother, **Lap Claudio**, to bring a more extensive menu of authentic Vietnamese dishes. **Brendan Murphy** of the **Gibson**, created the cocktail menu, which incorporates Vietnamese influences.
Typically, a restaurant opens first locally, then enters the world of airport food service ? but not this time. **Vino Volo**, a wine bar that opened its first location at Dulles in 2005, recently opened a wine lounge at Bethesda Row, its first location not at an airport. San Francisco-based Vino Volo or ?wine flight? in Italian, operates in 14 airports, including Dulles and BWI/Marshall Airport. That?s not all. Vino Volo will open its second location not at an airport in Tysons Corner in early 2013.
Restaurateurs **Paul Stratmeyer** and **David Levitt** are on a roll. They just opened **Black Lime Caf?**, a Mediterranean concept, in Crystal City, and plan to open more Black Lime Caf?s in the Baltimore-Washington area within the next five years. Levitt co-owned **Tenderjacks** in Leesburg; he and Stratmeyer bought the restaurant from Levitt?s partners. They converted Tenderjacks into **DelMarVa?s Taphouse**, which features locally crafted beer and wine. There are plans to open a Taphouse in Sterling next month, with others coming to Arlington and Quantico next year. The duo also operates DelMarVa?s Southern Caf?, a traditional Southern restaurant, which has one location in Baltimore that opened earlier this year.
Potomac Mills is expanding. It will soon take over all of Prince William County (just kidding?) **The Cheesecake Factory** has recently opened (its 12th location in the Baltimore/Washington area), the first of several new sit-down dining choices at Potomac Mills on its redeveloped south side. **Bahama Breeze** is scheduled to open its first Washington-area location at Potomac Mills later this year. **Bobby Flay?s Bobby?s Burger Palace** is also slated to open early next year.
**Ch-Ch-Changes:** Even though **Art and Soul** in the Liaison Hotel is not very old, it is closing immediately following January?s inauguration for a makeover that will transform the modern interior into something better suited to the restaurant?s farm-to-table southern menu. It is slated to re-open in mid-February. The change won?t affect the kitchen, which will continue to be manned by executive chef **Wes Morton**.
**Brickside Food & Drink** is slated to open on Cordell Avenue in Bethesda where Bubby?s Deli used to be. **Villa Mozart** (Fairfax) chef-owner Andrea Pace will be in charge of the kitchen. His business partner, **Brian Vasile**, a co-owner of **Grand Central** in Adams Morgan, will serve as general manager of the 85-seat operation. The interior is described as ?Prohibition.?
**Quick Hits:** Gordon Biersch plans to open near Nationals Stadium on M St, SE, by the beginning of the 2013 season. They have five other locations in the metro area?**Gypsy Sally?s Acoustic Tavern**, has applied for a license to open in Georgetown at 3401 K St., NW.
**Opening Update: Frederik de Pue?s Azur **on 405 8th St., NW, is slated to open by New Year?s Eve. The theme is European-style seafood. De Pue knows seafood, having cooked at the Michelin-rated Sea Grill in Brussels. Pastry chef **Kieu-Linh Nguyen** will make desserts. **Jon Arroyo** of **vFounding Farmers** is designing the cocktail menu. Tea is provided by Teaism.
**Beuchert?s Saloon** on 623 Pennsylvania Ave., SE, will have five sections focusing on locally sourced vegetables, snacks, main courses called ?Whole Meals,? side dishes and a dessert selection focusing on such retro treats as banana Foster Twinkies. The 47-seat restaurant is set to open Jan. 7.

Cocktail of the WeekDecember 12, 2012


During this festive season, Washington revelers will gather at holiday soirees and indulge in glasses of punch, eggnog and seasonal cocktails. The year 2013 will be rung in with Champagne toasts. But in Peru and other parts of South America, special occasions have been marked by drinking chicha, a tradition that dates back more than 1,000 years.

Chicha is a fermented alcoholic beverage made from corn that originated with the Incas, who used it during rituals and festivals. Mills in which chicha was made were found at Machu Picchu. Archaeologists from the United States uncovered an ancient chicha brewery in the mountains of southern Peru believed to be more than 1,000 years old. When I visited the ruins of the pyramid tombs of Sipan in late November, the unearthed buriel sites included, along with human remains, gold and semi precious adornments and idols, and ceramic pitchers used for chicha.

While chicha de jora, the traditional indigenous drink is forged from corn, across the Latin America chicha is made from many different grains and fruits including quinoa, apples, cassava and grapes. Another popular beverage in Peru is chicha morada, a deep purple non-alcoholic drink made from purple corn, lemon and spices.

Chicha de jora is prepared from a specific kind of yellow corn called jora. It has a pale yellow hue, a somewhat opaque milky appearance, and a somewhat acerbic and sour taste that some find similar to an unfiltered beer or a strong hard apple cider. While the flavor is a somewhat acquired taste, I found it to be quite refreshing when enjoyed outdoors under the powerful Andean sun.

Chicha is prepared by germinating corn, extracting the malt sugars, boiling the worth, and fermenting it in large vessels, traditionally huge earthenware vats for several days. The process is similar to production of beer.

Traditionally, Inca women made chicha by chewing corn to a pulp and then spitting the mixture into a vat of warm water. Once the corn was masticated and spit into the warm water, it would sit for a few days before it was ready to drink.

Today chicha is not commerically produced, it is generally an unregulated and unlicensed business similar to moonshine. Many people make it in their homes or restaurants and it is often sold straight from the ceramic containers where it was brewed.
I was first introduced to Chicha, by my Shaman, Illapa Naveda. He purchased it from a small bodega, it came in a large unmarked recylced glass bottle sealed with a cork. He touted it to me as a healthier choice than other alcohol such as commerically produced beer or rum, since it is homemade from natural ingredients. There may some truth to his statement, at only about 2- to 3-percent alcohol, chicha is a better alternative than higher-proof potables.

Before drinking the chicha, he dripped a portion of on the ground while saying the word ?Pachamama? which is Quechua (Incan language) for ?mother earth.? This ritual is an indigenous tradition. He explained to me that the earth is hungry and the chicha was a ceremonial offering for the earth.

Today Chicha remains an important part of Peru?s history, and is often used to mark special occasiocns and celebrations such as weddings, baptisms or holidays. It is a communal drink and generally served in a small, hollowed-out gourd, called a pilche, and passed from person to person.

So this year, going with my ?When in Rome? mantra, my holiday plans include, celebrating the Navidad season with my new friends and enjoying this unique and historical tipple.

The Latest Dish November 28, 2012

November 28, 2012

**Pinstripes Bocce Bowling & Bistro** plans to open a 100-seat Italian-themed restaurant that also offers bowling and bocce, on the lower level of The Shops at Georgetown Park. They may have 30,000 square feet at their disposal to eat and play in, as well as able to accommodate up to 600 people for pri- vate events. They will need a special exemption for bowling, but the owners expect only 5% of their patrons to come to Pinstripes to bowl. They may not be taking into account Georgetown University?s Beer & Bowling course. Just joking…

**AJ Prakash**, who has been in the Mexican restaurant business for 28 years, working with Tex-Mex too, plans to open his own mod- ern, slightly upscale Mexican restaurant with a Mayan inspired menu. The 280-seat restaurant will be located in the Tysons area. There will also be seating for approximately 60 on the out- door patio. No name yet. Stay tuned.

Quick Hits: **Fabio Trabocchi** plans to open a second restaurant, Fiola Mare, with an emphasis on seafood, at Washington Harbour in 2013. The space is next door to Nick’s Riverside Grille. It?s about 10,000 square feet with a great patio overlooking the park and Kennedy Center. The Firelake Grill is slated to open at 4200 Wisconsin Ave., NW, where Ruby Tuesday?s was. Casey’s Coffee will open at 355 E St, SW this month. **Lime Fresh Mexican Grill** will open on 7th Street, NW in Penn Quarter where Potbelly Sandwich Works used to be. A mid-2013 date is targeted. **Taylor Gourmet** will open its fifth locations when it opens at 6th & E Streets, NW in Penn Quarter where Meatballs used to be. Pho 14 will replace Pizza Hut on Columbia Road, NW in Adams Morgan. They plan to open in early November.

Opening Updates: Latest intel straight from **Soupergirl**: her expanded Silver Spring operation should be open late November/early December. matchbox 14th Street by end of November (fingers crossed). Ted?s Bulletin 14th Street and **matchbox** Merrifield by end of 1Q 2013. Smash Burger?s second store, in Dupont Circle, by February 2013. **YO! Sushi**?s second store, in Chinatown, by the Presidential Inauguration. Whew.

**Chef Frederik de Pue**, owner of 42? Catering, plans to open **Table** (tah-bluh) early this month at 903 N Street, NW in Logan Circle ?hood near Blagden Alley, where Rogue 24 is. Formerly an auto repair space, the 75-seat res- taurant will have a contemporary urban design. Chef sees this as a return to Old World dining experience. Belgium influence will be strong, as will his European cooking experiences. Dinner only will be offered in the first stage, followed by lunch, brunch and breakfast when the kitchen and staff are ready.

*Linda Roth Conte is president of Linda Roth Associates, Inc (LRA) specializing in mak- ing creative connections through media relations, marketing initiatives, community outreach and special events for the hospitality industry. Contact Linda at (703) 417-2700 or linda@ lindarothpr.com or visit her web site at www. lindarothpr.com*

A taste of Paris in Las Vegas

November 27, 2012

Amid all the buffets in Las Vegas is Thomas Keller’s Bouchon, with that bustling quiet that a fine dining restaurant usually has and without any of the flash and prefabricated extravagance that the town was built on.

With indoor and outdoor seating, the ambience was lively but contained to low chatter with an old-world bar and an even better bartender who served up a Coudoulet de Beaucastel 2009 Red Rhone Blend. An inviting and intimate atmosphere amidst the overwhelming lights and people of Las Vegas, the staff is punctual and treat customers like what most restaurateurs should treat customers like, but even more so when the prices are as high for elegant but traditional food.

Living in the not-so-coastal town of D.C., every chance I get, I go for the oysters. And though Las Vegas is farther from water than our own home, I took a chance that Bouchon wouldn’t let me down on what I can never eat enough of: oysters. Starting with three varietals of oysters — Fannie Mae, Barron Point and Hama Hama — they were the dream of any seafood lover who never quite gets enough. Creamy and firm all at once with a hit on vinegar on each. Priced at $18 for half a dozen, they were a pricey decadence, but so is Vegas. They did not disappoint.

And then came the Rillettes aux Deux Saumons, or a jello-mold of smoked and baked salmon that the server peeled back a layer of Crisco-looking lard from. Served with toasted croutons, this could have made an entire meal for one. With plentiful croutons, I chose to dollop on more salmon than what was proportional to each garlicky crouton — the fish did not have the usual flakiness that a salmon cake can have, but was a fatty spread. A couple sitting next to us peered at the dish of salmon as the server peeled back the layer of fat, and after I took the first bite asked if it was worth it. It was.

My companion had to try the classic Frisee aux Lardons et Oeuf Poche, which is like an egg sandwich made somewhat healthier with frisse lettuce. Lardons, or thick pieces of bacon and pork belly were embedded in a bacon vinaigrette that deliciously mixed with runny egg yolk from the poached egg. The most indulgent “salad” on earth.

The restaurant features an open seafood bar, with three chefs preparing mussels, lobster, crab and clams with a muster. While watching them during the appetizer course, they prepared a Grand Plateau, or one lobster, 16 oysters, eight shrimp, eight claims, tne mussels and seasonal crab, for $110. It was like watching the building of a boat, with each chef on a particular duty and high fives at the end as the masterpiece was hauled off to a table.

Onto entrees. Gigot d’Agneau, or roasted rack of lamb with crispy swiss chard subric, bite-size pieces of rutabaga and rosemary lamb jus. The portion of lamb was just right with around 5 oz. and perfectly cooked. Oh, and the pears. The pears. Poached in red wine for over three hours, they tasted like what one always wishes plastic fruit on Christmas wreathes should take like: succulent, sweet and with the texture of a good steak that fades slowly away and down the throat. Paired with the slightly salty lamb, it was a match made in heaven and something most would never think to put together, or could pull off. The pears were the best, and I recommend Bouchon start offering them in as dessert.

From the same seafood car comes Moules au Safran, which are steamed with white wine, Dijon mustard and saffron and served with French fries, though we were unable to try it because of the bounds of our stomachs. For gnocchi lovers is a Gnocchi a la Parisienne with a fricassee of garden vegetables and brown butter sauce. And for the more simple bargain shopper is the Croque Madam, or a grilled ham and cheese sandwhich on brioche bread with a fried egg and sauce Mornay.

The classic steak Frites was a tossed bag, with pan-seared prime flatiron, caramelized shallots and maître d’hotel butter. Though the steak was slightly over-cooked for medium to what was probably medium well, the prime cut was still full-flavored and created enough jus for the massive amount of fries to be dipped in. On this front, the fries were too many and heaping. To watch them be dumped in a trashcan after perhaps an eighth was eaten was painful. Downsize the fries, Bouchon.

My companion who hates crème’ caramel, loved the crème caramel. The caramel custard was everything it should be – candied air that had just the right amount of caramel sauce that seems like it could be the jus from sugar. The Marquise au Chocolat was a must, with burnt orange cream on top of a singular disk of dark chocolate mousse that was thick and rich. Also on the dessert menu that was a close toss up in ordering were the Profiteroles, which are the classic puff pastry with vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce.

All in all, the meal was amazing and the service even better. It was a quiet respite, even from the venue of the bar, from Vegas with its French-inspired décor that begged to be likened to a French home and inviting and personal wait staff. The dark wood paneling, tables and bar made myself and my companion feel at home, which complimented the traditional food that was all in all, quite good.

Prices: $60 to $200 for dinner for two
Ambience: Classic and intimate amidst Las Vegas extravagance
Address: 3355 Las Vegas Blvd. S, Las Vegas, NV
Location: In The Venetian
Phone: (702) 414-6200
Web Site: www.bouchonbistro.com
Cuisine: French
Reservations: Recommended

The Latest Dish November 14, 2012

November 14, 2012

**Mi Cocina** plans to open in the spring of 2013 in The Collection at Chevy Chase where M Caf? was. It is part of M Crowd Restaurant Group, based in Irving, Texas, a suburb of Dallas. Mi Cocina offers classic Tex-Mex food, with hearty margaritas and their signature Mambo Taxi. There are 20 Mi Cocina restaurants currently open in Texas and Oklahoma, with one slated to open in Atlanta by the end of the year.

**Teatro** on K Street, NW (formerly Teatro Goldoni) has undergone a metamorphosis and will re-open as **LooK**, featuring small plates from all over the world ? even some Teatro favorites. D?cor is Icelandic-inspired with interactive bar and stair lighting, 20-foot suspended TV that can be viewed from either sides of the restaurant, making it two-way.

**AJ Prakash**, who has been in the Mexican restaurant business for 28 years, working with Tex-Mex too, plans to open his own modern, slightly upscale Mexican restaurant with a Mayan inspired menu. The 280-seat restaurant will be located in the Tysons area. There will also be seating for approximately 60 on the outdoor patio. No name yet. Stay tuned.

**The Raven Grill** owner Merid Admassu is teaming up with Kevin Perone and Cafe Saint Ex?s Jessica Kleinmann to open a tavern called Lyman?s at 3720 14th St., NW. Plans call for a 20-seat heated patio with a retractable roof, a latticed privacy fence, and an indoor-outdoor counter. Should be open soon.

**Quick Hits**: **Fabio Trabocchi** plans to open a second restaurant, **Fiola Mare**, with an emphasis on seafood, at Washington Harbour in 2013. The space is next door to Nick?s Riverside Grille. It?s about 10,000 square feet with a great patio overlooking the park and Kennedy Center. **The Firelake Grill** is slated to open at 4200 Wisconsin Ave., NW, where Ruby Tuesday?s was. **Casey?s Coffee** will open at 355 E St, SW, this month. **Lime Fresh Mexican Grill** will open on 7th Street, NW in Penn Quarter where Potbelly Sandwich Works used to be. A mid-2013 date is targeted. **Taylor Gourmet** will open its fifth locations when it opens at 6th & E Streets, NW in Penn Quarter where Meatballs used to be. Pho 14 will replace Pizza Hut on Columbia Road, NW in Adams Morgan. They plan to open in early November.

**Opening Updates**: **Farmers Fishers Bakers** at Washington Harbor will now open on Nov. 7. They were also victims of the flooding a year and a half ago. Latest intel straight from **Soupergirl**: her expanded Silver Spring operation should be open late November/early December. **Matchbox** 14th Street by end of November (fingers crossed). **Ted?s Bulletin** 14th Street and matchbox Merrifield by end of 1Q 2013. **Smash Burger**?s second store, in Dupont Circle, by February 2013.