A taste of Paris in Las Vegas
• November 27, 2012

Amid all the buffets in Las Vegas is Thomas Keller’s Bouchon, with that bustling quiet that a fine dining restaurant usually has and without any of the flash and prefabricated extravagance that the town was built on.

With indoor and outdoor seating, the ambience was lively but contained to low chatter with an old-world bar and an even better bartender who served up a Coudoulet de Beaucastel 2009 Red Rhone Blend. An inviting and intimate atmosphere amidst the overwhelming lights and people of Las Vegas, the staff is punctual and treat customers like what most restaurateurs should treat customers like, but even more so when the prices are as high for elegant but traditional food.

Living in the not-so-coastal town of D.C., every chance I get, I go for the oysters. And though Las Vegas is farther from water than our own home, I took a chance that Bouchon wouldn’t let me down on what I can never eat enough of: oysters. Starting with three varietals of oysters — Fannie Mae, Barron Point and Hama Hama — they were the dream of any seafood lover who never quite gets enough. Creamy and firm all at once with a hit on vinegar on each. Priced at $18 for half a dozen, they were a pricey decadence, but so is Vegas. They did not disappoint.

And then came the Rillettes aux Deux Saumons, or a jello-mold of smoked and baked salmon that the server peeled back a layer of Crisco-looking lard from. Served with toasted croutons, this could have made an entire meal for one. With plentiful croutons, I chose to dollop on more salmon than what was proportional to each garlicky crouton — the fish did not have the usual flakiness that a salmon cake can have, but was a fatty spread. A couple sitting next to us peered at the dish of salmon as the server peeled back the layer of fat, and after I took the first bite asked if it was worth it. It was.

My companion had to try the classic Frisee aux Lardons et Oeuf Poche, which is like an egg sandwich made somewhat healthier with frisse lettuce. Lardons, or thick pieces of bacon and pork belly were embedded in a bacon vinaigrette that deliciously mixed with runny egg yolk from the poached egg. The most indulgent “salad” on earth.

The restaurant features an open seafood bar, with three chefs preparing mussels, lobster, crab and clams with a muster. While watching them during the appetizer course, they prepared a Grand Plateau, or one lobster, 16 oysters, eight shrimp, eight claims, tne mussels and seasonal crab, for $110. It was like watching the building of a boat, with each chef on a particular duty and high fives at the end as the masterpiece was hauled off to a table.

Onto entrees. Gigot d’Agneau, or roasted rack of lamb with crispy swiss chard subric, bite-size pieces of rutabaga and rosemary lamb jus. The portion of lamb was just right with around 5 oz. and perfectly cooked. Oh, and the pears. The pears. Poached in red wine for over three hours, they tasted like what one always wishes plastic fruit on Christmas wreathes should take like: succulent, sweet and with the texture of a good steak that fades slowly away and down the throat. Paired with the slightly salty lamb, it was a match made in heaven and something most would never think to put together, or could pull off. The pears were the best, and I recommend Bouchon start offering them in as dessert.

From the same seafood car comes Moules au Safran, which are steamed with white wine, Dijon mustard and saffron and served with French fries, though we were unable to try it because of the bounds of our stomachs. For gnocchi lovers is a Gnocchi a la Parisienne with a fricassee of garden vegetables and brown butter sauce. And for the more simple bargain shopper is the Croque Madam, or a grilled ham and cheese sandwhich on brioche bread with a fried egg and sauce Mornay.

The classic steak Frites was a tossed bag, with pan-seared prime flatiron, caramelized shallots and maître d’hotel butter. Though the steak was slightly over-cooked for medium to what was probably medium well, the prime cut was still full-flavored and created enough jus for the massive amount of fries to be dipped in. On this front, the fries were too many and heaping. To watch them be dumped in a trashcan after perhaps an eighth was eaten was painful. Downsize the fries, Bouchon.

My companion who hates crème’ caramel, loved the crème caramel. The caramel custard was everything it should be – candied air that had just the right amount of caramel sauce that seems like it could be the jus from sugar. The Marquise au Chocolat was a must, with burnt orange cream on top of a singular disk of dark chocolate mousse that was thick and rich. Also on the dessert menu that was a close toss up in ordering were the Profiteroles, which are the classic puff pastry with vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce.

All in all, the meal was amazing and the service even better. It was a quiet respite, even from the venue of the bar, from Vegas with its French-inspired décor that begged to be likened to a French home and inviting and personal wait staff. The dark wood paneling, tables and bar made myself and my companion feel at home, which complimented the traditional food that was all in all, quite good.

Prices: $60 to $200 for dinner for two
Ambience: Classic and intimate amidst Las Vegas extravagance
Address: 3355 Las Vegas Blvd. S, Las Vegas, NV
Location: In The Venetian
Phone: (702) 414-6200
Web Site: www.bouchonbistro.com
Cuisine: French
Reservations: Recommended

The Latest Dish November 14, 2012
• November 14, 2012

**Mi Cocina** plans to open in the spring of 2013 in The Collection at Chevy Chase where M Caf? was. It is part of M Crowd Restaurant Group, based in Irving, Texas, a suburb of Dallas. Mi Cocina offers classic Tex-Mex food, with hearty margaritas and their signature Mambo Taxi. There are 20 Mi Cocina restaurants currently open in Texas and Oklahoma, with one slated to open in Atlanta by the end of the year.

**Teatro** on K Street, NW (formerly Teatro Goldoni) has undergone a metamorphosis and will re-open as **LooK**, featuring small plates from all over the world ? even some Teatro favorites. D?cor is Icelandic-inspired with interactive bar and stair lighting, 20-foot suspended TV that can be viewed from either sides of the restaurant, making it two-way.

**AJ Prakash**, who has been in the Mexican restaurant business for 28 years, working with Tex-Mex too, plans to open his own modern, slightly upscale Mexican restaurant with a Mayan inspired menu. The 280-seat restaurant will be located in the Tysons area. There will also be seating for approximately 60 on the outdoor patio. No name yet. Stay tuned.

**The Raven Grill** owner Merid Admassu is teaming up with Kevin Perone and Cafe Saint Ex?s Jessica Kleinmann to open a tavern called Lyman?s at 3720 14th St., NW. Plans call for a 20-seat heated patio with a retractable roof, a latticed privacy fence, and an indoor-outdoor counter. Should be open soon.

**Quick Hits**: **Fabio Trabocchi** plans to open a second restaurant, **Fiola Mare**, with an emphasis on seafood, at Washington Harbour in 2013. The space is next door to Nick?s Riverside Grille. It?s about 10,000 square feet with a great patio overlooking the park and Kennedy Center. **The Firelake Grill** is slated to open at 4200 Wisconsin Ave., NW, where Ruby Tuesday?s was. **Casey?s Coffee** will open at 355 E St, SW, this month. **Lime Fresh Mexican Grill** will open on 7th Street, NW in Penn Quarter where Potbelly Sandwich Works used to be. A mid-2013 date is targeted. **Taylor Gourmet** will open its fifth locations when it opens at 6th & E Streets, NW in Penn Quarter where Meatballs used to be. Pho 14 will replace Pizza Hut on Columbia Road, NW in Adams Morgan. They plan to open in early November.

**Opening Updates**: **Farmers Fishers Bakers** at Washington Harbor will now open on Nov. 7. They were also victims of the flooding a year and a half ago. Latest intel straight from **Soupergirl**: her expanded Silver Spring operation should be open late November/early December. **Matchbox** 14th Street by end of November (fingers crossed). **Ted?s Bulletin** 14th Street and matchbox Merrifield by end of 1Q 2013. **Smash Burger**?s second store, in Dupont Circle, by February 2013.

Hail to the. . . Red Wine? Sips for Tailgating This Fall
• November 6, 2012

My parents used to tailgate in high style at the Strawberry Hill races in Virginia when I was growing up. I remember my mother packing up the station wagon with her sterling silver platters and chafing dishes to lay the prefect tailgate display. There was pea salad, spinach dip in pumpernickel bread, carved watermelons in crystal bowls, Jefferson cups, strawberries and powdered sugar in silver bowls and, of course, a huge Smithfield ham on its massive platter. All would be laid out on the back of the table-clothed tailgate of the Oldsmobile. I remember my sister and I running around and checking out the other tailgate parties along the rope. I also remember Dad and his associates standing around in tweed jackets with patches on the elbows mixing cocktails from shiny silver flasks of whiskey.

I tried to recreate my parent’s flair of entertaining and southern hospitality several years ago for Gold Cup. Silver platters? Check. Strawberries and powdered sugar? Check. Linen table cloths? Check. Flasks of whiskey? No check! This time we packed the SUV with wine.

Be it tailgating at the horse races, Redskins games or your alma mater’s homecoming, wherever there is an outdoor sporting event, there will be wine and food. If it’s your inclination this fall to pack up your car and entertain with style out the back of it too, do it with wines that will please tailgaters and their palates.

First, a couple of rules of thumb for selecting and serving wines for tailgates to make your spread easy and delicious:

1. Pair simple but flavorful wines with simple foods.

2. For fancier foods, by all means breakout the champagne. In my opinion, champagne goes with everything.

3. Food-friendly red wines varietals like Tempranillo or Sangiovese will please a wide range of your tailgaters palates.

4. Offer a semi-sweet white and a dry white, if you can, for the “I only drink white wine” tailgaters.
Here are a couple of recommendations to bring along to the game:

White Burgundy

Big oaky chardonnays don’t always pair well with food. So while you want to make sure you have some whites on hand for your sports fans, serve a lightly oaked, more subtle chardonnay like this white burgundy (French Chardonnay) from Pouilly Fuissé, France: LaBoure-Roi Vallon D’Or 2011.

Riesling or Pinto Gris

Riesling from Washington State that is on the sweeter side is generally liked by many new wine drinkers. So for those new alums returning for Homecoming and tailgating with you at you alma mater, you might consider packing the Pinot Gris or Riesling from Columbia Valley’s Cht. Ste. Michelle. These wines are simple but travel well. Both wines will pair well with spicy barbecue sauces and more complex spicy foods like red pepper hummus and savory dips.

Red Zinfandel

Segehsio Family Vineyard’s Sonoma Valley Zinfandel is a red wine for tailgates involving grilling. With its red fruit and spice flavors, this is a great food wine. It has a good amount of acidity. Acidity in wine compliments fats in meat. With grilled meats remember to choose a wine that has structure but not heavy tannin. Serve with grilled burgers, steaks, and sausages with onions and peppers.

See Seghesio Family Vineyards for more red zinfandels.

Tempranillo

Tempranillo is traditionally found in great Riojas from Spain but it is also found as a single varietal wine simply bottled as Tempranillo. Like red zinfandel, its level of acidity and plum/cherry flavors make it very food friendly. This wine will appeal to many different palates. Pair it with ribs and Latin fare like guacamole and chips and salsas. Try Marques de Caceres Rioja Reserva.

You could also toast RG3 and the Skins out at your next FedEx Field tailgate with a bottle of Redskins Reserve wine. Bottled to celebrate the team’s 80th anniversary, this Cabernet Sauvignon is a limited edition. It has been spotted in the restaurants at FedEx field as well as Harris Teeter.

So step up your tailgating game and try some of these wines (along with the beer). And remember the most important rule of tailgating with wine: Don’t Forget the Corkscrew! Cheers!?

Flavorful Fusion
•

Bangkok Joe’s, a restaurant located in Georgetown for the past nine years, caters to finest Asian cuisine and sees itself as the best Asian restaurant in the DC area.

“What makes this restaurant unique from any other restaurant?” you might ask. “We don’t use the same sauce for each dish. We incorporate different sauces for different dishes. That’s why it tastes so good,” said Jimmy Phomsivilai, Bangkok Joe’s general manager.

If you’re looking to reserve a table over the weekend, keep in mind that Friday and Saturday nights are the busiest days of the week with an average of around 350 to 450 people a night. A reservation is highly recomended.

Once you enter this fabulous restaurant, you’ll be overwhelmed by the fine décor. Bangkok Joe’s was decorated by Jordan Mozar, who also designed the Cheesecake Factory. The space is filled with a welcoming atmosphere. “Three things we are about—atmosphere, friendliness, and good food consistently,” said Phomsivilai.

Unsure of what to order when you arrive? According to Phomsivilai, Pad Thai is the most popular dish for an entrée while dumplings come in first for an appetizer. What’s his favorite dish? “I really like the lobster and pine nut steamed dumplings and I would recommend the Grilled Salmon,” said Phomsiviai, “It’s a fusion of Salmon with lo mien noodles. We are fusion, not just Thai.”

Still not convinced? Bangkok Joe’s is also home to “The best happy hour in D.C.,” according to Phomsivilai. “All beers, drafts, bottles, wines, martinis, and regular drinks are half priced. It’s from 4-7 every night, seven days a week.”

Located at Washington Harbour, Bangkok Joe’s is perfect for fine dining or unwinding. From the friendly staff to the excellent happy hour, Bangkok Joe’s has it all. “Come see us at our happy hour!” said Phomsiviai. For more information visit Bangkok Joe’s at 3000 K Street NW, or go online to www.bangkokjoes.com or call 202.333.4422.

Yo! Sushi Opens First U.S. Location
•

Might there be a Yo! Sushi in Georgetown’s future?

London-based YO! Sushi opened its first U.S. location in Union Station July 25. The conveyor-belt, sushi-themed restaurant has plans to expand into the U.S. market. At least ten Yo! Sushi restaurants are slated to open in the D.C. area alone. Chinatown has been marked as the second D.C. spot for this U.K. chain restaurant.
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Celebrating Julia Child’s 100th Birthday
•

Born Aug. 15, 1912, Julia Child was one of
America’s most influential chefs. As her
100th birthday approaches, let us take a
look back at how she got started. Child’s television
programs, “The French Chef,” “Julia Child
and Company,” “Julia Child and More Company,”
“Cooking with the Master Chefs” and “Julia
and Jacques Cooking at Home” helped expose
Americans to the art of French cooking.

At six-foot-and-two-inches, the towering
chef already stood out. In fact, on the sets of her
shows the counter tops were designed so that
she wouldn’t have to crouch down while cooking.
Child was anything but average. Her quirky
methods of cooking, great sense of humor and
fearlessness of failing helped her share her passion
for cooking with the world.

However, Child did not pursue her joy of
cooking until age 36. She and her husband Paul
were living in France when Child enrolled in
Le Cordon Bleu cooking school. Instantly, she
immersed herself in French culture. Her most
notable cookbook, “Mastering the Art of French
Cooking,” which she collaborated on with fellow
female chefs Simone Beck and Louisette
Bertholle remains a holy grail among chefs to
this day.

To celebrate what would have been Child’s
100th birthday, below are some upcoming
events in and around D.C., on television and online
commemorating her.

AUGUST

On pinterest.com, a board in honor of Julia
Child has been set up by the New York Chapter
of Les Dames d’Escoffier, the premier organization
for professional women in the food, wine,
and hospitality industries. Pinterest allows users
to share content including images, video, and
other creative material by “pinning” these images
onto their pinboard. The Julia Child Pinterest
board aims to pin 100 photos and tributes of
her in order to share with fans around the world.

AUGUST 5

PBS will broadcast original episodes of “The
French Chef,” which has not aired since the
1960s. Viewers are encouraged to follow these
episodes by making their own creation of a classic
Julia Child dish and sharing their creations
by posting photos to PBS Food on Twitter, using
the hashtag #CookforJulia. In addition, an
encore presentation of the special “Julia Child
Memories: Bon Appétit!” will air, as well as
comments and testimonials regarding Julia from
well-respected food industry people around the
nation.

AUGUST 7-15, 13-19

RIS restaurant will pay homage to Julia Child
all month as part of its “All Thing Julia” tribute.
Coinciding with D.C. Restaurant Week (August
13-19), “All Things Julia” at RIS will offer a
traditional $20.12 lunch menu and $35.12 dinner
menu with Child’s incomparable dishes. Additionally,
RIS will also participate in National
Julia Child Restaurant Week, which is hosted by
the Julia Child Foundation for Gastronomy &
the Culinary Arts. Be sure to ask the bartender
for Child’s classic “reverse martinis.” For updates
on “All Things Julia,” visit risdc.com and
call 202.730.2500 to make a reservation. 2275 L
St., NW, Washington, D.C. 20037.

AUGUST 8

At the S. Dillon Ripley Center at the Smithsonian,
join biographer Bob Spitz, 7 to 8:30 p.m.,
as he discusses the impact of Julia Child at “Julia
Child’s Bon Appétit for Life.” Following the
lecture, Spitz will be available to sign copies of
his latest book “Dearie: The Remarkable Life of
Julia Child” after the program. Tickets cost $25.
For more information, call 202-633-3030, or visit
smithsonianassociates.org. 1100 Jefferson Dr.,
SW, Washington, D.C. 20560.

AUGUST 15

If you are looking for a more hands-on approach
to this centennial, Sur La Table is hosting
a cooking class at its restaurant, 6:30 to 8:30
p.m. Using recipes from Child’s classic “Mastering
the Art of French Cooking,” an instructor
will assist you in recreating some of Julia’s most
popular dishes. At $69 per person, what better
way to celebrate than to be like one of America’s
most beloved chefs herself? Visit surlatable.com
for more information or call 202.237.0375. 1101
S. Joyce St., Arlington, Va. 22202.

AUGUST 15- SEPTEMBER 3

Celebrate Julia Child’s centenary by planning
a trip to the Smithsonian’s National Museum of
American History to visit her actual kitchen.
Donated to the Smithsonian in 2001, the 14-by-
20-foot kitchen from her Massachusetts home
features every cooking amenity imaginable, including
the kitchen sink. Find out more at americanhistory.
si.edu/juliachild. 1400 Constitution
Ave., N.W., Washington, D.C. 20004.?

Celebrating Julia Child’s 100th
•

Chef Ris Lacoste hosted a 100th birthday celebration dinner in honor of Julia Child at her restaurant, RIS, on what would have been the chef’s 100th birthday on Aug. 15. The abundant raw bar was graciously provided by Clyde’s Restaurant Group, with Clyde’s president Tom Meyer shucking oysters for Ris, who was once executive chef at 1789, the site of Julia Child’s 90th birthday dinner.

Mayfair & Pine Opens Friday in Glover Park
•

“Top Chef” contestant of season 2, Emily Sprissler and husband Jason Cote are opening their gastropub July 20. Mayfair & Pine Restaurant is located in the original Town Hall space at 2218 Wisconsin Ave., NW, in Glover Park. It will seat about 110 and entrée prices will range from $12 to $35.

Inspired by their honeymoon trip in London and Pine Street where they lived in San Francisco, the couple will present their unique menu creations, including rustic seafood stew, a Thanksgiving turkey sandwich, an apple salad spiked with dressing made with candy red hots, mushroom toast with scrambled eggs and fish and meat pies.

Rejected by eight banks and picking up the project from the ground, the wife and husband team will share cooking duties by being executive chef and Jason Cote ad Chef de Cuisine. “This is my baby,” Sprissler said. With the economy not being their best friend and Sprissler being a freelance caterer, the couple moved to Washington three years ago. Both eventually landed cooking jobs at different Wegmans in Virginia. Now, they and new customers can celebrate the new Mayfair & Pine restaurant.

COCKTAIL OF THE WEEK: POP UP
•

Washington is going pop! In what many consider a transient city, it only makes sense that pop-up retail stores and restaurants have been making a splash in the nation’s capital. Georgetown was treated to the Bloom pop-up shop and the Water Street Project art exhibition earlier this spring. M Street’s newest dining spot Bandolero hosted two pop-up previews before opening their permanent doors.

So as the summer heat climbs to scorching levels, what could be better than a pop-up tiki bar? In my opinion, not much until scientists figure out a way to create a pop-up Caribbean beach complete with swaying palm trees and cabana boys on the Georgetown waterfront.

Well the wait is over — for the tiki bar, at least. Washington bar chef extraordinaire JP Cacheres has transformed the roof top at Connecticut Avenue’s Dirty Martini, into a groovy, open-air topical- themed bar smack in the middle of downtown’s Golden Triangle. Caceres, the chief mixologist for Dirty Martini and founder of Let’s Imbibe, Inc., has spent months experimenting and conjuring up creative cocktails for his new space.

Everything is made from scratch — from fresh-squeezed juices, homemade syrups, hand-carved ice and more than 30 varieties of rum. The cocktail menu will continue to evolve with changing specials. This spot is perfect for the summer drinker who wants something more original and cultivated than a typical piña colada.

During my recent visit, Caceres was playing with an updated version the classic El Presidente cocktail, a refreshing blend of rum, grenadine, orange Curaçao and white vermouth. The El Presidente is a Cuban-born tipple that dates back to the heydays of cocktails. During Prohibition, imbibers from the states flocked to Havana to get their party on.

While many theories about the exact origin of the El Presidente swirl, Esquire cocktail editor David Wondrich believes it was created by Eddie Woelke, an American bartender at Havana’s Jockey Club. Woelke purportedly named the drink in honor of President Gerardo Machado, who ruled Cuba throughout most of the Prohibition years.

Caceres, who is known for his creative liquor infusions, pumps up this vintage potable with a pork-fat infused rum. Caceres starts with Appleton rum, already a full-flavored Jamaican spirit, and uses a fat-washing technique to infuse the liquor with a meaty goodness.

He begins by browning the pork in a frying pan until the fat is melted and liquefied. Next, he takes a sterilized canning jar and measures three cups of rum to which he adds one cup of liquified fat. The mixture is sealed and left to rest. The infusion process takes about five day to complete. The fat and liquid will eventually separate, with the fat forming a hard cover on top of the alcohol. To complete the process, Caceres skims the solidified fat from the top of the jar and strains the liquor through a double cheesecloth.

The second secret to this cocktail is the use of homemade grenadine. Caceres does not use premade syrup; instead he forges this mixer freshly from pomegranate. The finished cocktail is served in a retro tiki mug over crushed ice and garnished with a cinnamon stick for a touch of fragrance. Caceres’ creation results in many layers of flavor. The pork- fatted rum adds a richness that is balanced by the sweetness of the Curaçao. The grenadine, vermouth and aromatic bitters all contribute a bit of earthiness, a sight tartness and subtle spice. While there is no ocean to dip your toes into, sipping this cocktail will transport your taste buds to the sophisticated luxury of a Caribbean resort.

Readers can try the El President Gordo (Fat President) and other delicious Polynesian- and Caribbean-inspired cocktails Monday through Friday, from 5 to 10 p.m. on the rooftop at Dirty Martini, 1223 Connecticut Avenue, NW. ?

EL PRESIDENTE GORDO

1.5oz Appleton VX Pork Fat Infused ()

.75oz Dolin Blanc Vermouth

.50oz Orange Curaçao

1 bar spoons Homemade Grenadine

2 dashes Reagan Orange Bitters

Build drink in a tiki mug, swizzle over crushed ice. Garnish with a cinnamon stick. [gallery ids="100902,128316" nav="thumbs"]

Cash In On Cupcakes at Sprinkles ATM
•

Can’t shake the cupcake craving? Sprinkles Cupcakes has you covered. There are murmurs around the cobbled streets of Georgetown that the cupcake connoisseurs are planning to open a cupcake ATM. Yes… you heard correctly. A cupcake ATM. And they’re planning to do it as soon as next month!

With the battle of FroYo versus Cupcakes as the trendier anytime snack, Sprinkles ATM might just be the deciding factor. First premiering at their Beverly Hills location, the Sprinkles Cupcakes ATM is impossible to miss due to its multicolored paint job.

And with the success of the west coast venture come plans to expand. Sprinkles ATM might just give the famed residential cupcake shop, Georgetown Cupcake, a run for their money. Dieters beware of the blue, green, pink, and magenta hues of the Sprinkles ATM—they’re sure to summon you for a delicious dessert.

The 24-hour ATM is continuously restocked with fresh cupcakes ranging in flavors from red velvet to peanut butter chocolate. They even stock cupcake dog treats for your dog!

At $4 each, Sprinkles Cupcakes won’t break the bank and are sure to satisfy. Be on the lookout for the multicolored cupcake sensation this August in Georgetown at 3015 M St. NW.