Salud! A Flavorful Journey Through Spain
• March 17, 2016

Nestled amid bustling downtown D.C. is an escape to the magical land of Spain. Festive red walls trimmed in white crown molding — reminiscent of architecture found in Spain’s capital, Madrid — enclose a portal to the country’s rich culture, just past the doors of Taberna del Alabardero on 18th Street NW.

Packed with power-lunchers by day, the large, white-tablecloth dining room offers a more romantic ambiance in the evening. The bar is flanked with signed photos of Spanish royalty and A-list celebrities (recently spotted: Woody Allen and friends), many of whom make a point to dine at this American version of a Spanish classic.

For almost 27 years, Taberna — part of Grupo Lezama, which operates restaurants and a culinary school in Spain — has prided itself on the authenticity of its offerings and atmosphere. Seasonal changes to the menu highlight the techniques and flavors unique to Spain. Executive Chef Javier Romero, trained in Madrid, Aranjuez and Marbella, excels at signature dishes like paella, which is generously topped with fresh lobster, scallops, mussels and squid.

When it comes to ethnic dining, however, especially French, Italian or Spanish, a restaurant is only as good as its wine list. Taberna’s is outstanding, truly separating this establishment from its local counterparts. Embracing a menu offering both traditional favorites, such as Iberian ham carved, just so, into thin, savory slices of heaven, and new takes on old classics, such as chipirones en su tinta con arroz y salmorejo (black ink baby squid with rice and a light creamy salmorejo sauce), is a list that highlights the rich wine regions of the restaurant’s country of origin.

Bordering France and Portugal, the wine regions of Spain present unique flavor opportunities, some characterized by the grapes shared by its wine-centric neighbors. Taberna del Alabardero sommelier Jorge Olias describes Taberna’s wine program as “an extensive list rich in wines from Spain but also paying homage to a few wines produced in the U.S.”

Asked about his favorite regions, Olias is unable to choose, expressing his affection for the “peculiarities and characteristics” of many regions. At a recent lunch, we tried some wine selections exquisitely paired with gazpacho so rich and decadent it was almost buttery and paella that could possibly be the most savory this side of the Atlantic.

Of course, no siesta is complete without a selection of Spanish wines and cheeses. Standouts included the Pazo da Bouciña, an outstanding white of the Albariño variety (a white-wine grape grown in Galicia, a region in the nortwest), with aromatic intensity and hints of fruit and florals as it hits the taste buds; and a sublime tempranillo entitled Dominio de Atauta, full-bodied with a smooth finish. The medium acidity of the Pazo da Bouciña was just enough the balance out the decadence of the gazpacho. Hints of sweet spices and cocoa bean perfectly complimented the succulent suckling pig confit that topped off our exquisite midday meal.

Olias also points out Taberna’s lengthy and varied selection of sherries, boasting: “It’s impossible to describe them all.” It is traditional in Spanish culture to begin the dining experience with a little sherry to open the taste buds before indulging in a flavorful meal. We began ours with “Jarana Lustau,” a light, dry, delicate sherry with hints of pecan — perfect beginning to a most flavorful journey.

Taberna’s integrity is the foundation of what has made it an essential Washington institution along the lines of Café Milano and Al Tiramisu. Next month, the restaurant will celebrate its 27th anniversary by introducing new menu selections, cocktails and sangrias.

But it is clear that what makes this D.C. gem so special isn’t the constant introduction of new elements to keep abreast of the District’s ever-changing, overflowing food and beverage scene; it is instead the classic dining experience found here, one that draws with unmatched authenticity on one of Europe’s greatest — and most flavorful — civilizations.

To view the menu and for news of special events such as wine dinners and paella classes, visit alabardero.com.