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‘Bolly’ for Bond . . . James Bond, That Is
August 15, 2013
•I always wanted to be a Bond Girl, but alas I am a wine nerd. I have seen every James Bond movie at least a dozen times each. When Encore channel airs its James Bond marathon, I’m glued to the TV. According to www. bigshinyrobot.com, fellow Bond fans and myself can join its challenge to watch “every single James Bond movie in 30 days” before the next franchise installment, “Skyfall” opens in theaters Nov. 9.
So what is the result of being a wine nerd and a movie lover? Not only do I notice characters drinking wine, but I notice what wine and what glass they use. I have even paused movies on DVDs to study this, pressing my nose to screen to make out wine labels. I take note of all the wines James Bond drinks. I told you I was a wine nerd.
This month, with the 50th anniversary of the release of the first Bond film, “Dr. No,” I thought it would be appropriate to revisit his favorite wine—champagne—to celebrate.
Tattinger Comtes de Champagne
In the novel, “Casino Royale,” Bond drinks Taittinger’s Comtes de Champagne, Blanc de Blancs ’43. The Tattinger house flavor profile is that of toasted notes. Comtes is always a vintage champagne, i.e., only made in years when the wine is truly exceptional and warrants having the year noted. The Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs is composed of 100% Chardonnay, and Comtes de Champagne Rosé is made from 100% Pinot Noir grapes. According to Tattinger’s website, a small amount of the wine is aged in new oak barrels giving the wines toasted aromas and flavors. This champagne is aged for 10 years before being released for sale.
Dom Pérignon
When “Dr. No” premiered in 1977, Dom Perignon starred as Bond’s “champs” of choice. Dom Pérignon is a brand that is well known around the world and might be becoming ubiquitous, no doubt with the help of the Bond series. In “Goldfinger” and “The Spy Who Loved Me,” Dom Pérignon appears. However, to us viewers, figuring out the vintages and flavor style of Dom Pérignon can be intimidating. The house makes a vintage brut Champagne every year, unless the house decides a particular year not to. See? Simple. But all you have to know is that one vintage can be dramatically different from the other and its popularity comes from its consistent quality, rareness and boldness, no matter the year. Since the beginning of production, almost 90 years ago, Dom Pérignon has only been released a third of that time over the period. Bottles aged for seven years bare a green label. Those wines aged longer have a black label.
Bollinger
Bollinger aka “Bolly” if you are British, can be found in “Moonraker” (1979). In the first ever Bond film, as 007 tries to escape, he grabs a bottle of Dom Pérignon to hit a guard. “That’s a Dom Pérignon ’55 – it would be a pity to break it,” says Dr. No. “I prefer the ’53 myself,” responds Bond. ?In “The Living Daylights” Bond partakes in BOLLINGER R.D. ’69 champagne. R.D. stands for “recent disgorgement.” This means recently bottled but not recently aged. Bollinger is only released on demand, so the consistency can vary widely in R.D. But that is what makes drinking R.D. exciting. You don’t know what you’ll get from bottle to bottle, and it’s probably why Bond drinks it.
Bond can also be seen drinking Bollinger Grand Année. This champagne is also one of the house’s “prestige” champagnes, i.e., most expensive and of the highest quality of this Champagne house. Bollinger uses exclusively Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes. So, the house style of this champagne is yeasty/bready aromas with citrus and nutty flavors.
In “Casino Royale,” Daniel Craig as James Bond orders Bollinger La Grande Année from room service. Grand Année is champagne that is only made by Bollinger in exceptional years when the grape harvest is of an outstanding caliber. The recent vintage, 2003, has received high ratings (but then again, Grand Année always does). Grande Année is made Golden (white) or Rose. Bollinger’s non-vintage, entry level, champagne is called “Special Cuvee.”
With several Bond-approved champagnes to choose from this list, why not forget the martini “shaken, not stirred” and pop open one of these to celebrate the return of Bond next month and 50 years properly? I will be. Cheers!
Tastes Great, More Filling: Guide to Washington Area Wine Dinners
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Type “Wine Dinners D.C.” into an Internet search engine like Google, and a surprising number of hits come up. You wouldn’t have guessed it, but Washington, D.C., and Georgetown are wine dinner havens. Consider yourself lucky to have a wide range of multiple course dinners paired with various wines for each course available to the area diner. Essentially, that is what a wine dinner is: a dinner thrown by a host or a restaurant consisting of different food courses paired with wines set at fixed price. Sometimes, the menu is offered to individual parties as part of a regular dinner service menu, and other times, it is a special event held in a private room of the establishment.
I had the opportunity to spend a pleasant evening at one such private wine dinner at 901 Restaurant and Bar on 9th Street, NW, several weeks ago. Washington state based winery Saint Michelle had dropped by to show off some of their latest offerings. 901’s Chef Thomas Hall paired them with his new wine dinner menu. My dining companion and I were the first to arrive in the private dinning room featuring a long table set with many place settings. This is usually the case at a private wine dinner with a host or wine educator. Attendees usually sit at one long table in sort of a family dinning room table manner. This setup facilitates talking among the attendees who may not know each other. As we waited on the other unknown guests to arrive, 901’s dashing bar manager, Dean Feddaoui served us some perfectly chilled sparkling wine. Soon, we were joined by some bubbly 20-something-year-olds from a local event company. Once all the introductions where made and they took their seats, the conversation turned to food and Washington’s booming restaurant scene.
These girls were foodies, and we soon were discussing weekend-long girlfriends’ food road trips and debated who made the best hot sauces (Frank’s, Krystal or Tabasco). When Fran “Pineapple” Schmitz (and yes, that’s the name that’s actually on his business card), Saint Michelle’s business development manager, took his place at the head of the table and began discussing the night’s wines, the conversation ceased. Everyone was eager to taste, not talk.
We were first served the white wines as Pineapple told us about the history of the wineries, the terroir of its north Western American vineyards and basic wine tasting techniques. Once the Ste. Michelle Pinot Grigio as was served, we discussed the classic characteristics of Pinot Grigio and Pineapple Schmitz instructed us to look for pear and apple aromas. The chef paired it with the first course “Tuna Two Ways.” This dish was beautifully presented and consisted of versions of two of 901’s tuna appetizers. The standout among them is the yellow-fin tartare with Japanese aioli and crispy wontons. This Pinot Grigio paired nicely with the Asian flavors and will also go well with South Western fare.
Other notable wine and entrée pairings were Citrus XO Shrimp with lemon, sesame oil and dried chili threads paired with Saint Michelle’s Gewurztraminer. The sweet “jelly doughnut without the jelly” flavors of the wine were a great foil to the spicy hot “chili threads” that adorned the shrimp. Another menu and wine pairing standout is the Hoisin Duck with Asian Five spice, glove and apple paired with their Artist Series wine. The artist Series red is a Cabernet blend that just begs to be drunk with food.
If the wine dinner concept appeals to you, here are some more wine dinners in the District, to check out:
Nage Bistro
1600 Rhode Island Ave., NW, 202-448-8005
American/Seafood
Wednesday, Thursday & Friday chef tastings
3-course tasting $40 add wine pairing for $15
4-course tasting $45 add wine pairing for $20
City Zen
1330 Maryland Ave., SW, 202-787-6006
American
6-course meal, vegetarian option available
$85 per person
Komi
1509 17th St., NW, 202-332-9200
Greek/Mediterranean
$135 per person, $70 extra for wine pairing
Proof
775 G St., NW, 202-737-7663
American
4-course tasting menu with wine pairings, $95 per person
Equinox
818 Connecticut Ave., NW 202-331-8118
American
chef’s tasting menu
4-course with wine pairings, $95
6-course with wine pairings, $125
Smell of Change: Wines of Spring
April 24, 2013
•When spring rolls around rebirth and change is in the air. Our palates desire change too. The heavy red wines of winter we so enjoyed when the temperature dipped give way to thoughts of lighter refreshing crisp white wines.
When spring comes fragrant flowers bloom. Everything turns greener and our food menus do too. Selecting white wines to go the spring menus become a focus. There are plenty of options ranging from French style chardonnays to light pinot grigio. Properly chilled, sometimes there cannot be anything more refreshing and palate pleasing in warm weather then a glass of white wine.
Here are a few white wine recommendations to quench your thirst and please your palates and your nose this spring.
TORRENTES
Torrentes is from South America. It is a moderate acidic and smooth textured white normally. When I think of the flavors of Torrentes, I think of peach and apple flavors and a wine reminiscent of Muscat or Gewürztraminer. Some top Torrentes is produced by Bodega Colome in Argentina. Try the 2011 vintage. This wine is floral. It will remind you of a fresh cut flower bouquet. The floral note will again appear upon tasting but the dominant flavors are orange, nectarine, white peaches, and lime. This wine has a long pleasing finish. It will pair beautifully with delicate white-fleshed fishes, shrimp, lobster and foods seasoned with Asian spices.
Also try Hermanos Torrentes. Its pale green tint and its delicate fruity aroma will draw you in. It will remind you of fresh cut grass. On the palate its quince, kiwi, lime zest flavors come through. Pair with grilled Mahi Mahi, pork loin, and white pizza.
ALBARINO
Found predominantly in northwest Spain and Portugal this a lightly gold colored wine with a tinge of green. It is aromatic, high in acid and a full-bodied wine. It will pair well with heavier meat based spring and summer dishes or can be sipped alone.
Marques de Caceres Deusa Nai Albarino 2011 is a good example of Albarino. On the nose it will remind you of melon. Citrus flavors like lemon and lemon zest along with pineapple and slight minerality should please you. Finish is fairly long. Acidity is refreshing. Pair this with Serrano ham, shrimp, and grilled calamari and coconut cream pie.
SOAVE
Soave is an Italian light, dry white wine. It is lighter then Albarino but also expresses floral notes. Soave is found in the Vento region of Italy and is comprised of traditionally a blend of two grapes, garganega and trebbiano. It comes in several levels of quality. Seek out Soave Classico or a higher quality for optimal enjoyment.
Pieropan, Soave Classico La Rocca is gold- en yellow in hue. Its keenly expressive floral notes persist to the palate upon tasting this wine. This is a traditional styled Soave in that the classic honey, vanilla, almond flavors show up along the peach and apricots notes. There is a slight mineral component to its taste that adds to this rather straightforward wine’s complexity.
Also try a higher quality Soave like Gini Soave Classico La Froscà. This Soave also expresses strong but pleasant aromatics immediately. You will taste that classic almond essence along with baked or dried fruits like baked apple and candied orange peel. There’s a flash of mineral essence that cuts through the fruit flavors and provides a nice complexity as well. Pair your glasses of Soave with cream of summer corn soup, chowders, flounder, trout, and clams.
So welcome in spring with these aromatic and refreshing whites and you will transition into a new season feeling lighter without comprising flavor. Cheers! Enjoy!
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Luxury in a Glass
April 9, 2013
•The email’s subject read, “Invitation to a Champagne Conversation with Krug and Louis Vuitton.” I blinked at my computer screen and read it again. Yes, it did indeed contain the words invitation, Krug, champagne and Louis Vuitton. I thought I was surely dreaming. Krug and Louis Vuitton together, in one setting? I was all in!
Days later, on a rainy, cold January afternoon I slipped into the cozy environs of Quill at The Jefferson Hotel. Along with an exclusive group (less than a handful) of D.C. food and wine tastemakers, I was treated to a conversation and tasting by Krug and Vuitton. We were called together to discuss the current state of luxury. The two luxury brands are companies held under the LVMH Corporation and partially owned by Christian Dior. LVMH owns numerous luxury labels including Moet, Hennessey, Thomas Pink, and Fendi. Vuitton and Krug epitomize luxury brands that are evolving to capture the hearts of the contemporary luxury lover.
Krug’s ideal demographic consists in part of the 35 to 50 year-old entrepreneur (male or female) who doesn’t know about wine but wants the best and wants to be shown it without much fuss and fluff. They are contemporary and optimistic. They have savior faire and a joie de vivre. So does Krug champagne.
I often talk about styles of wines in relationship to human personalities. To me Krug represents contemporary freshness and finesse. The flavor profile of a Krug champagne is lemon or citrus, fresh bread, almond and richness without sacrificing freshness.
Their entry level, standard release, non-vintage champagne (basic level) is called Grande Cuvee. This retails around $150. Why the higher price for a non-vintage standard release champagne? It is a higher quality entry-level bottle than other champagnes. All of Krug’s champagnes are “prestige” and come from the harvest’s first pressing, i.e., the best juice. Also, it takes seven years to bottle Krug non-vintage champagne. Grande Cuvee can also include still wines from great harvests from 20 years ago. This particular afternoon the Grande Cuvee did not disappoint with its classic citrus, honey, and almond croissant flavors. I was delighted to see that Quill lists Grande Cuvee by the glass, (one of the few, if not only, place in the city that does).
Quill also provided wonderful accompaniments for the champagnes we tasted. We were served shrimp cocktail with horseradish crème fraiche, cheese plates with sweet “wine pearls” and seasonal fruit chutney; and local charcuterie. All are currently available on the Quill menu.
When we tasted the rosé, my mind reeled at the thought of how good it will taste when it ages. Krug’s rosé is the only prestige rosé champagne that blends wines from all three traditional champagne grape varietals. The use of all three grape varieties gives Krug rosé a richness unlike any other. It releases raisin on the nose and has a refreshing finish.
That stormy afternoon, we also had the opportunity to taste a quite appropriate treat in light of weather, the latest Krug vintage release. The 2000 vintage is affectionately named, the “Gourmandise Orageuse.” Krug indicates it means “stormy indulgence.” The climate in Champagne, in 2000, was unusual and chaotic. Hence, the grapes produced an extraordinary Krug vintage. Apple flavors and acidity make it very drinkable. However, the 2000 reflects the chaos of the climate the grapes were grown with a resulting rare style and elegance. But, isn’t that why we seek luxury? It provides a little needed comfort and elegance in our sometime chaotic, stormy contemporary world. Cheers to Krug! And cheers to you! Enjoy
Fire and Spice-Cognac: a Distilled Wine
February 1, 2013
•Some people, around this time of year, may have the idyllic vision of themselves sitting in a high back chair by a fire, a cashmere throw over their lap, snow falling outside, and a snifter of fine cognac in their hand. But what is cognac? And why do we sip it?
Cognac is distilled white wine made in Cognac, France. The wine is made from ugni blanc grapes. It is a thin and highly acidic wine, but when distilled, it is perfect for making brandy. This brandy is distilled again in the Cognac region and “cognac” is born. Just remember: Cognac is brandy, but not all brandy is cognac.
Wine-Lover’s Luxury Gift Guide
December 14, 2012
•If you have an especially good wine lover on your holiday shopping list this year, here are some luxurious wine-themed gifts to present to the discriminating wine lover this holiday season. Why not spoil them or yourself with a little bit of luxury? Cheers and Happy Holidays!
Agassi Venetian Wine Tumblers
These whimsical colorful hand blown Venetian wine glasses, a.k.a. gotos, come in a set of six and are designed by Italian artist Massimo Lunardo. The tumblers feature undulating shapes and confetti swirls making each glass unique and the set one of a kind. These are available at online at www.uncommongoods.com
Price: $330 for a set of six.
Cristofle Silver K+T Collection 2-Bottle Wine Cooler
Made for two champagne bottles or one magnum. Born out of a collaboration of chef Thomas Keller and architect Adam Tihany for the venerable French house of Cristofle. Stands 8.5 inches and silver-plated. Price: $1,700. Contact www.fxdougherty.com or www.cristofle.com; 800-834-3797.
Surcouf Steamer Trunk Bar
This croc-embossed leather steamer trunk will be the center of attention in any room. It is sure to impress your wine lover. It is made with a rosewood finish on the wood, bone drawer pulls and brass hardware. The bar features noble, sustainably sourced materials by Starbay. Available online through www.onekingslane.com
Price $3,199.
William Yoeward Lead Crystal Engraved “Camila” Wine and Champagne Glasses
Coveted crystal of William Yeoward marries English and Irish crystal tradition, modern sensibility and an antique aesthetic. The small intricate floral pattern with the vertical cuts in its “Camilla” stemware makes it one of the house’s most popular. Sizes to gift include goblets, large wine glasses and champagne flutes. Made in England. Prices for the “Camila” design start at approximately $260. Available at A Mano, 1677 Wisconsin Ave., NW — 202-298-7200. Also at Neiman Marcus stores. Visit www.neimanmarcus.com for specific store information.
Grape Crate-Curated Wine Subscription Service
D.C. native Alex Clifford, and a rotating panel of D.C. wine experts, meticulously taste and select a case (12 bottles) of wine. It is then packaged beautifully and delivered to your home. Crates are seasonal and currently include the Grape Crate, Christmas Dinner Crate and New Year’s Eve Crate. Orders for December crates mentioned close Dec. 17, 2012. If you miss them, sign up for their email list and you’ll be right in line to enjoy 2013’s offerings. Kosher Crate and the Easter Brunch Crate are planned for 2013. www.grapecrate.com Price $200 per crate.
Screaming Eagle’s Cabernet Sauvignon, 1992 (Napa Valley, California)
This wine is a powerhouse among Cabernet. This vintage is unfined, unfiltered and aged in 60-percent new oak. It was originally sold only via a mailing list. Lush dark fruit flavors like dark plumbs and cassis mingle with chocolate flavors. The 1992 vintage is cult-worthy. If the price tag is a little steep at $7,000 per bottle, just about any vintage of Screaming Eagle will delight a Cab drinker. Available at www.wine.com
A “Singular” French Burgundy
One bottle of 2008 Domaine de La Romanee-Conti Romanee-Conti. This French burgundy (Pinot Noir) comes from a producer and appellation that are among the very best in the world. Vintages of Romanee-Conti are renowned. The 2008 is no exception. Note the Oriental spice, raspberry, and rose petal aromas as well as a long finish. Coveted and sought after, a bottle of the 2008 can be yours for approximately $3,099.00 or $38,000.00 a case (if you can find one). Try: www.thegourmetgrape.com
Remember That One Time At Wine Camp?
Send your wine lover to a wine camp like Sonoma Grape Camp, Sept. 23 through 25, 2013. According to its website, “You’ll spend three blissful days picking grapes and blending your own wine with your very own hands” in Sonoma, Calif. Master winemakers will teach participants. Tours and dinning in a Michelin Star restaurant round out your stay. Contact Sonoma Grape Camp at 707-522-5864 to reserve. For more information, visit www.sonomagrapecamp.com Price: $2,000 per person. [gallery ids="102575,119935,119914,119921,119929,119940,119952,119946" nav="thumbs"]
Hail to the. . . Red Wine? Sips for Tailgating This Fall
November 6, 2012
•My parents used to tailgate in high style at the Strawberry Hill races in Virginia when I was growing up. I remember my mother packing up the station wagon with her sterling silver platters and chafing dishes to lay the prefect tailgate display. There was pea salad, spinach dip in pumpernickel bread, carved watermelons in crystal bowls, Jefferson cups, strawberries and powdered sugar in silver bowls and, of course, a huge Smithfield ham on its massive platter. All would be laid out on the back of the table-clothed tailgate of the Oldsmobile. I remember my sister and I running around and checking out the other tailgate parties along the rope. I also remember Dad and his associates standing around in tweed jackets with patches on the elbows mixing cocktails from shiny silver flasks of whiskey.
I tried to recreate my parent’s flair of entertaining and southern hospitality several years ago for Gold Cup. Silver platters? Check. Strawberries and powdered sugar? Check. Linen table cloths? Check. Flasks of whiskey? No check! This time we packed the SUV with wine.
Be it tailgating at the horse races, Redskins games or your alma mater’s homecoming, wherever there is an outdoor sporting event, there will be wine and food. If it’s your inclination this fall to pack up your car and entertain with style out the back of it too, do it with wines that will please tailgaters and their palates.
First, a couple of rules of thumb for selecting and serving wines for tailgates to make your spread easy and delicious:
1. Pair simple but flavorful wines with simple foods.
2. For fancier foods, by all means breakout the champagne. In my opinion, champagne goes with everything.
3. Food-friendly red wines varietals like Tempranillo or Sangiovese will please a wide range of your tailgaters palates.
4. Offer a semi-sweet white and a dry white, if you can, for the “I only drink white wine” tailgaters.
Here are a couple of recommendations to bring along to the game:
White Burgundy
Big oaky chardonnays don’t always pair well with food. So while you want to make sure you have some whites on hand for your sports fans, serve a lightly oaked, more subtle chardonnay like this white burgundy (French Chardonnay) from Pouilly Fuissé, France: LaBoure-Roi Vallon D’Or 2011.
Riesling or Pinto Gris
Riesling from Washington State that is on the sweeter side is generally liked by many new wine drinkers. So for those new alums returning for Homecoming and tailgating with you at you alma mater, you might consider packing the Pinot Gris or Riesling from Columbia Valley’s Cht. Ste. Michelle. These wines are simple but travel well. Both wines will pair well with spicy barbecue sauces and more complex spicy foods like red pepper hummus and savory dips.
Red Zinfandel
Segehsio Family Vineyard’s Sonoma Valley Zinfandel is a red wine for tailgates involving grilling. With its red fruit and spice flavors, this is a great food wine. It has a good amount of acidity. Acidity in wine compliments fats in meat. With grilled meats remember to choose a wine that has structure but not heavy tannin. Serve with grilled burgers, steaks, and sausages with onions and peppers.
See Seghesio Family Vineyards for more red zinfandels.
Tempranillo
Tempranillo is traditionally found in great Riojas from Spain but it is also found as a single varietal wine simply bottled as Tempranillo. Like red zinfandel, its level of acidity and plum/cherry flavors make it very food friendly. This wine will appeal to many different palates. Pair it with ribs and Latin fare like guacamole and chips and salsas. Try Marques de Caceres Rioja Reserva.
You could also toast RG3 and the Skins out at your next FedEx Field tailgate with a bottle of Redskins Reserve wine. Bottled to celebrate the team’s 80th anniversary, this Cabernet Sauvignon is a limited edition. It has been spotted in the restaurants at FedEx field as well as Harris Teeter.
So step up your tailgating game and try some of these wines (along with the beer). And remember the most important rule of tailgating with wine: Don’t Forget the Corkscrew! Cheers!?
REDS, WHITE AND LUNCH
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When I was invited in mid-June to have lunch with the CEO of the renowned California winery, Silver Oak, I was all for it. He was in town for the Silver Oak Tower Tour and would be celebrating the winery’s 40th Anniversary with some customer events. The opportunity to taste David Duncan’s cult-status Cabernets along with some steaks from Morton’s is the stuff that red wine fans—and meat eaters—dream of. But, when the temperatures in D.C. began to rise and the appointed day’s temperature hit the high 90s, my resolve to tuck into steak and wine over lunch started to waiver.
When I arrived at the restaurant and was shown to the table, I was immediately confused by the series of glasses at each of our place settings. I quickly assumed that David and I were going to be doing a vertical tasting of his cabs. Vertical tastings are when several vintages of the same wine are tasted in succession. But I soon learned, and happily so, that we would not be just tasting cabs. David explained that we would be tasting wines from Silver Oaks’ California sister winery, Twomey Cellars. Twomey is named after his father’s family and produces wines other than California cabs at separate vineyards and wineries.
We order a Caesar salad to split, tuna tartar and shrimp cocktail. Having both succumbed to the heat outside, we opted out of having heavy steaks.
The first wine we started with was the Sauvignon Blanc. I loved hearing the story behind the only white wine in Twomey’s portfolio. Apparently, all the women in the family told the men who made the wine that they were tired of always drinking red wine and the next new wine introduced better be a white. Well, apparently the men behind Twomey are smart and quickly came up with this offering.
I was so surprised by this wine. I expected it to be mundane coming from a Cabernet maker, but it was full of citrus fruit flavors that burst in the mouth. It was vibrant yet comforting. The comfort comes from “typicality” like Karen McNeil talks about in The Wine Bible. This wine has the typicality of a California Sauvignon Blanc and that is comforting. It also has the complexity that I know is there when I taste a wine because it makes me say “Hmm…” It compelled me to take another sip, and another and another. It went beautifully with my shrimp cocktail.
We then moved on to the 2007 Twomey Merlot. First off, I noticed the dark berry color of this wine. It looked like a jewel in the glass. It was very food friendly and it went perfectly with tuna tartar. Expressing classic dark berry and cooked dark berry flavors, it did not disappoint as a Napa merlot. It showed complexity but not too much tannin.
Next on the tasting list was the 2010 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir. This wine was austere with definite floral notes. If you enjoy classic French style pinot noir, this is your wine. The wine is aged in French barrels, which helps this pinot achieve most of its character. Of all the wines, it seemed out of place in Twomey’s line up though. All the other wines were fruit forward and this was not.
After the pinot noir we moved on to the Big Boys— Silver Oak cabernets!
The 2007 Silver Oak Anderson Valley Cabernet Sauvignon was poured. Upon tasting this wine one understands the reason for its cult following. It is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged in barrel and then bottle for a total of 15 to 16 months. It is amazingly food-friendly and luscious. It reminded me of berry cobbler.
Last on our tasting tour was the 2007 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. This vintage is 90% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 6% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot, and 1% Cabernet Franc. The Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot round out the cabernet sauvignon and give the wine suppleness and finesse. Luscious black fruits and chocolates flavors characterize this wine. The 2007 Napa Valley Silver Oak Cabernet is a California Cab lover’s Cab.
If you are one of the many fans of Silver Oak that have enjoyed the wines over its forty year legacy, you will be pleased to know that the beautiful quality and lush flavors continue as the winery’s hallmarks with the 2007s. And you will be happy to know that the 2008 will be released early next month. If it is too hot to drink cabs, try some of their sister winery Twomey’s offerings. There is something for everyone and who knows, you might get in on the ground floor of another cult following.
50 Shades of Sancerre
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Ladies, here’s the scenario: You have just finished the first book in the mega literary phenomenon trilogy, “Fifty Shades of Grey.” You are immediately about to dive into book number two, “Fifty Shades Darker, and all that talk about wine has you desirous of a glass of Sancerre to sip as you read. All of the sudden, you have the burning desire to drink like Christian Grey and Anastasia Steele, the main characters.
But what is Sancerre and where do you start to figure out what kind you will like? Never fear, I’ve got you covered. Here is your introduction to the “Wine World of Grey.” Now, gentlemen, I know you may not have any idea what book I am taking about. But ask any woman in your life, she’ll know and can give you (if she’s willing) a brief, albeit probably sanitized, version of the plot. We girls have some secrets to keep. But if you want to drink wine like a jaw- dropping handsome, wildly successful, EC15 Eurocopter-flying, Audio R8-driving, piano-playing, private jet-owning, 27-year-old billionaire, take notes!
On one of Ana and Christian’s first dates, he orders a Sancerre, and you find them drinking it throughout the first book.
But What is Sancerre?
Sancerre is a place — a village in the Lorie Valley of France, to be specific. It’s also a wine made there from the Sauvignon Blanc grape. The soil in Sancerre comes from ancient oyster beds. So, the wines are usually characterized by minerality rather than big citrusy fruit flavors like the Sauvignon Blancs from the U.S. or New Zealand. Some of the best wines in the region carry the name Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé. White Sancerre became widely popular in the U.S. after World War II, when American GIs were exposed to them and liked them because they were easy drinking and easy to pronounce. They are typically high in acidity. Pouilly Fumé, Sauvignon Blanc made from the village opposite of Sancerre, is so similar in taste that Ana and most everyone else, could often confuse it with Sancerre. Fume means smoke.
I don’t know if “Fifty Shades” author, E. L. James, picked Sancerre as one of Grey’s favorites. But the choice is spot on. Sancerre mirrors Grey’s personality. He is like a Sancerre: elegant and reserved, like a traditional Sancerre — yet savage like the grapes’ name. The word “Sauvignon” comes from the word “sauvage,” i.e., “wild.” That’s Grey: “sauvage.” Sancerre can be smoky like “grey” smoke and with notes of gun flint — “grey gun flint.” Sancerre can have hints of minerality, herbs, orange, lime, along with a smoky-smoldering essence like Grey’s eyes are so often described. Crisp and elegant that’s Grey and Sancerre.
How to Enjoy?
Serve slightly chilled, and pair with white-fleshed fish. Enjoy alone or as an aperitif. Drink it now or within three to five years of its vintage year. The followingprices range for good to exceptional examples — from around $20 and up:
Producers That Christian Grey Would Know and Collect
Pascale Jolivet: Pale in color, but vibrant in flavor, racy, even elegant.
Henry Natter: Natter produces a more “New World” a.k.a. American-style fruit focused Sancerre but still wonderful quality, and it’s a joy to drink. This wine can be enjoyed alone.
Vincent Delaporte: Classic herbal-mineral charac- teristics and kiwi aromas are expressed in this vintner’s Sancerre.
Domaine Vacheron: Citrus zest balanced with min- erality. The 2010 is made from 100 percent organic/ biodynamic Sauvignon Blanc grapes.
Didier Dagueneau: Produces a Pouliy Fumé called “Pur Sang.” Floral and herbal. It has been seen on the wine list at the Inn in Little Washington in the past. And if you take a wallet like Christian Grey’s to purchase it from your wine merchant, you’ll be glad you did.
Pascal Cotat: Try the 2010 Les Monts Damnes.
Now armed with your shopping list, off to purchase new finds in perhaps your own Charlie Tango. Cheers and enjoy. Or I should I say: “Laters, Babe!” ?
Trending Now: Rosé!
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When the weather gets warm my taste for red wine changes (although I am sipping a beautiful La Linda Malbec in this first week of June, as I write this), the wine that satisfies the need for fruit and complexity is Rosé aka “Blush,” “Rosato” in Italy, or “Rosado” in Spain.
What is Rosé
Rosé is a wine style. It is made from the same red wine grapes that make the red wines like zinfandel, pinot noir, syrah, and grenache. The only major difference in rosé vs. red wine is that the grape skins have not had long contact with the juice in the wine making process. Yes, white zinfandel comes from a red wine grape-zinfandel. Thus, rosé can range from very dry, off-dry or sweet.
How do you figure out what style Rosé is for you?
Try them all. But here’s a little tip: try rosé from those regions and red wine grapes you already know and like. If you prefer a particular red wine like Grenache or Syrah, try rosés from Europe made from these grapes. These rosés are a treat for those who like dry or off-dry reds. If you don’t like dry wines, try U. S. based rosés made from grapes produced in the U.S. like pinot noir, zinfandel and merlot. Oh, and terminology: should you use “blush” or “rosé”? They mean the same thing. Leave it to your personal preference. Enjoy!
What to try from area restaurant wine lists?
If are you looking for a wine to bridge the gap between red and white this summer, try some of these found on area wine lists:
Heidi Schrock “Biscaya”. Austria. 2011. This is a beautiful jewel-colored sustainable rosé. It danced and glittered in the glass recently at Ripple in Cleveland Park. It is off-dry and complex. Pair with shrimp, tilapia, chicken piccata or goat cheese at home.
Matello Rosé Pinot Noir. Willamette Valley, OR. 2011. This wine has Jolly Rancher’s watermelon candy aroma, but it doesn’t taste like candy. It has wonderful strawberry flavors but it is an off-dry rosé with the only hint of sugar coming from the well pronounced pinot noir fruit. A beautiful, sustainable, wine with nice acidity at the finish. Available at Ripple in Cleveland Park. Pair with vegetarian dishes and grilled summer vegetables.
Baudry-Dutour Cuvee Marie Justine Chinon, France 2010. Cabernet Franc’s rosé has a pink-tawny peach color. Notice the slight herbal flavors that add to its allure. Slight sweetness and wonderful balance. Goes well with oysters. Pair with shrimp salad, white fleshed fish, and mushrooms at home.
Charles & Charles Rose, Columbia Valley, Wash. 2011. A Syrah- based Rosé blended with shiraz. The wine maker’s tasting notes suggest aromas of watermelon, grass, wet stones and citrus. Available on the wine list at Poste Brasserie in Penn Quarter. Pair with fish and chips and pork loin at home.
Jean-Maurice Raffeault Chinon Loir Valley, France, 2011. According to Vinoteca on 11th Street, NW’s wine list, this pale blush Cabernet Franc rose is “tart, funky” with under-ripe raspberry flavors. Well, I didn’t find it funky, but it was spunky with a wonderful minerality. Pair with cheeseburgers.
Dom. de la Courtade ‘L’alycastyre’, Côtes de Provence, France, 2011. This richly colored French rosé is an good example of how refreshing European-style rosés can be. It is made of grenache, tibouren and mourvèdre. Notice the strawberry flavors. It is refreshing as a cool drink of water. On the list at Vinoteca Wine Bar on 11th Street, N.W. Pair with grilled chicken and red snapper at home.
At home, chill and serve your rosé between 40 and 48 degrees, and you will seeing through rosé-colored glasses all summer long. Cheers! ?