Latest Dish April 23
• April 23, 2014

Where could four D.C. culinary superstars – Carla Hall, Ruth Gresser, Gina Chersevani and Jeff Tunks – all work together? Reagan National Airport, aka DCA, where they will be taking off without leaving the ground. They are among the food professionals involved with the 10 new restaurants coming to Terminal A in 2015. OTG and BMG, the concessionaires tapped by the Metropolitan Washington Airports Authority, plan an expanded lineup of food, beverage and retail options (including a full-service spa!) in the nine-gate terminal. MWAA is also partnering with Cohn’s Kitchen to provide job opportunities for underserved young adults training for foodservice careers.

Chef/owner Dean Gold is opening a rustic Italian restaurant, Dino’s Grotto, on 9th Street, NW, in the Shaw neighborhood. A new incarnation of his first restaurant in Cleveland Park, it will have 120 seats on two floors. One of the main themes is sustainability, with handmade pastas and products from local and organic farms and sustainable fishers and butchers. Expect local craft brews as well as artisan Italian beers and ciders on tap. The plan is to open by the end of April.

Christophe and Michelle Poteaux plan to open a new restaurant in Alexandria’s North Old Town neighborhood, not far from their popular Bastille restaurant in Old Town. They are referring to it as Bastille 2.0. Bastille will be renamed Bistro Royal (since it is on North Royal Street) and revamped. Michelle will be able to show off her pastry skills to a greater extent at the new, 100-seat restaurant, which will serve lunch and dinner. There will be a private dining space, an outdoor patio and a wine bar. Mark Slater will run the wine and beverage program at both restaurants, which should be ready by early 2015.

Lot 31 is the new buzz in Bethesda. Passion Food Hospitality is planning its second PassionFish restaurant there, its first in Maryland, part of a luxury residential and retail development at the corner of Woodmont and Bethesda Avenues. The original PassionFish is in Reston, Va. This will be the eighth restaurant for Passion Food Hospitality (Jeff Tunks, David Wizenberg, and Gus DiMillo).

More about Lot 31: Bob Giaimo will also open a new upscale version (2.0) of Silver Diner at Lot 31. It’s abbreviated, in that the name is Silver. Farm-to-table – check. It will be slightly smaller and more urban, with more bar business focused on local craft beers and wines. Silver Diner’s signature chrome will be replaced by a warmer wood-and-stone look.

Ch-Ch-Changes: If you cannot recall the last time you went to Italian classic restaurant Da Domenico in Tysons Corner, you won’t recognize the place – from décor to menu to bar – when it completes its transformation. The 22-year-old restaurant was bought by Syed Hussain, who has a few more surprises in store. He and his son plan to reintroduce it to the community by this summer.The 22-year-old restaurant was bought by Syed Hussain, who has a few more surprises in store. He and his son plan to reintroduce it to the community by this summer.

When the Marriott Marquis Washington, D.C., opens across from the Washington Convention Center, it will feature two restaurants and three bars. Anthem, a 215-seat restaurant, will serve breakfast and lunch, including a few classic items from Marriott’s old Hot Shoppes (including the “Mighty Mo” burger). The other restaurant, to be announced, will be run by a well-known operator from outside the D.C. area. Executive chef at the Marriott Marquis is Matthew Morrison, who most recently hails from The Ritz-Carlton, Tysons Corner. On the bar side: The Dignitary (upscale), seating 99, with an outdoor patio; High Velocity, an 184-seat sports bar with 48 beers on tap; and a 139-seat Lobby Bar in the atrium. A May opening is planned.
Chef John Paul Damato will head up the kitchen at Compass Rose, slated to open in Logan Circle where Collage used to be. Damato previously worked at ThinkFoodGroup and at Restaurant Nora. Compass Rose is owned by world travelers and husband-and-wife team Rose Previte and NPR’s David Greene, so it follows that globally sourced and inspired foods, wine, beers and cocktails will be on the menu.

What was once Michel Richard’s Michel at The Ritz-Carlton, Tysons Corner, then Entyse Bistro, will now become America Eats Tavern from José Andrés. The original location was in Penn Quarter. America Eats Tavern will serve breakfast, lunch and dinner, offering an American classics menu with products from local Virginia farms.

Quick Hits: Tony Tomelden of The Pug on H Street in North East D.C. plans to open Brookland’s Finest Bar & Kitchen nearby on 12th Street, NE. Expect comfort food and an early May opening. . .Robert Wiedmaier’s empire continues to grow. His Belgium-themed Brasserie Beck at McPherson Square gets a sister operation in Gaithersburg when it takes over the O’Donnell’s Sea Grill space. . .Everlasting Life Vegan Restaurant in Capitol Heights is opening a second location next to the Takoma Metro station serving lunch and dinner. Also planned is a bakery half a block away. . .California-based Blaze Pizza plans an early summer opening at Westfield Montgomery Mall.

Chef Update: Benjamin Lambert was named executive chef for 701 Restaurant in Penn Quarter, taking over from Tony Conte, who was overseeing both the Oval Room and 701. Lambert formerly worked at D.C.’s Restaurant Nora as well as at Goodstone Inn in Middleburg. . .Med Lahlou and Antonio Matarazzo of the Lalou Group announced that Domenico Apollaro would be chef de cuisine at their 100-seat Italian restaurant Lupo Verde, on 14th and T Streets. A native of Italy, Apollaro was previously executive chef at Eat’s Easy in Milan. . .Matt Hill has been named executive chef for Arlington’s The Liberty Tavern, Lyon Hall and Northside Social. He most recently served as chef de cuisine at Range at Chevy Chase Pavilion in D.C. Prior to Range, Hill worked with the Charlie Palmer Group, first at Aureole, then at D.C.’s Charlie Palmer Steak. Miljohn Dimaano was promoted to chef de cuisine at The Liberty Tavern. . .Daniel Singhofen is chef de cuisine at Blue Duck Tavern at the Park Hyatt in D.C.’s West End. Previously, he was at Eola in Dupont Circle.

Osiris Hoil, owner of District Taco, plans to open his next location at 20th & M Streets in Dupont Circle, where Cosi used to be. Though it started out as a taco cart in Rosslyn, there are now restaurants in Arlington, Metro Center and Capitol Hill. The Dupont store will also offer full coffee service. A May opening is targeted. Osiris is scouting Northern Virginia for his next District Taco location.

Linda Roth is president of Linda Roth Associates, a public relations and marketing firm that specializes in the hospitality industry.

Restaurants Infuse ‘Cherry Picks’ into Menu 2014
• April 11, 2014

Every year the D.C. restaurant scene gets a little more creative when spring rolls around. In conjunction with the Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington, a number of Cherry Picked restaurants feature special Japanese or cherry blossom inspired menu items to embrace the spirit of the festival. Find a full list of restaurants and reservation information at [nationalcherryblossomfestival.org](http://www.nationalcherryblossomfestival.org/visitor-information/cherrypicks/)

**Entrees and Appetizers**

[Fourth Estate](http://press.org/fourthestate) at the National Press Club will feature a Brie and Prosciutto crostini with cherry chutney appetizer, and a Goat cheese stuffed Chicken Breast with Cherry and Peach Salsa entrée. Both will be served during the brunch, lunch and dinner services. 529 14th Street NW, Ste. 1300

[Ici Urban Bistro](http://www.iciurbanbistro.com/) is offering a Prosciutto wrapped asparagus poached egg, cherry jam with balsamic vinegar as an appetizer. For an entrée, Atlantic salmon couscous pistachio and dried cherries, spiced pearl onion, lemon and cilantro relish. 806 15th Street, NW

[Jaleo](http://www.jaleo.com/dc) will be offering three different dishes including: “Panceta confitada con salsa de cereza,” pork belly confit with cherry sauce and “Queso Murcia al vino tinto con mermelada de cereza y pan tostado,” which is ‘the drunken goat’ Murcia cheese with cherry marmalade and toasted bread.

[Oyamel](http://www.oyamel.com/) – Their main specialty dish for the festival will be a Chile relleno filled with a duck picadillo and topped with a cherry sauce and pomegranate seeds. 401 7th Street, NW

[Cafe Deluxe](http://www.cafedeluxe.com/)- For a lighter cherry inspired dish, they will offer the Sherry Cherry Crispy Goat Cheese Salad, which blends mixed greens with sherry soaked cherries and corn nuts all topped with sherry vinaigrette and crispy pieces of goat cheese. 3228 Wisconsin Ave NW

**Specialty Cocktails**

[District Commons](http://www.districtcommonsdc.com/district.html) – Even though we all hope the blossoms will come on time, you can still try the “Late Bloomer” which has Leopold’s Maraschino Liqueur, Leopold’s Michigan Cherry Liqueur, and Gruet Sparkling Wine. 2200 Pennsylvania Ave NW

[Acadiana](http://www.acadianarestaurant.com/acadiana.html) – The “Black Cherry Punch” features Jim Beam Red Stagg Black Cherry infused Bourbon, Combier Cherry Liqueur, club soda and simple syrup. 901 New York Avenue, NW

**Desserts**

[Georgetown Cupcake](https://www.georgetowncupcake.com/) brings back their regular cherry blossom cupcakes including the Cherry Blossom, which is a classic Madagascar bourbon vanilla cupcake baked with fresh cherries and topped with a cherry infused cream cheese frosting and a fondant cherry blossom. They will also have cherry cheesecake. 3301 M Street NW

[Ovvio Osteria](http://ovvioosteria.com/) will offer multiple cherry desserts including chocolate cherry ganache filled cupcakes, sour cherry tarts, white chocolate cherry cookies, and cherry-misu. 2727 Merrilee Drive, Merrifield, Va.

[Olivia Macaron](http://www.oliviamacaron.com/) – March flavors include Lady Grey, mimosa, Cherry Blossom, and Irish Cream. 3222 M Street NW

Fabio Trabocchi’s Fiola Mare
•

As a beach-loving kid growing up near the Adriatic Sea in the Le Marche region of central Italy, Fabio Trabocchi liked to stick his head under the water, taste the brine and spy the sea creatures in their natural habitat of rocks, sand and swaying seaweeds. That’s one source of his inspiration at Fiola Mare, the superstar chef’s new Italian seafood restaurant on Georgetown’s waterfront at Washington Harbour. For the 40-year-old Trabocchi, an all-natural approach is best.

“It’s always been my dream to cook seafood for all the creative opportunity, for the lightness,” says Trabocchi, “and it’s also healthier.” On a tour of Fiola Mare, which he opened in late February with his Spanish-born wife and business partner, Maria, Trabocchi continues: “When this opportunity came up, with the view of the water from all the large windows and the park right outside the door, it made sense that here you can experience eating by the sea as we do in Italy.” With market reports in hand and trusted fishmongers on speed dial, the critically acclaimed chef has created an ever-changing menu, reflecting his passion for the finest sustainable seafood available worldwide.

The Trabocchis like to stay busy. In 2011, the couple opened in Penn Quarter the elegant Fiola, with a menu inspired by modern Italian cuisine. Last year, near Mount Vernon Square, they welcomed diners to the more casual Casa Luca, named for their 10-year-old son, who has taken an early interest in cooking. Restaurant two is, in the chef’s words, “my family-driven Italian with dishes my father cooked.” (For our region, Fabio Trabocchi will always be hailed as the cutting-edge executive chef of Maestro at the Ritz-Carlton, Tysons Corner, where he cooked for six years in the early 2000s.)

Fiola Mare is their most ambitious venture. At 7,500 square feet, with an additional 1,800 square feet of outdoor terraces, the contemporary 140-seat main dining room feels like a sleek salon on a mega-yacht. Soothing, subtle earth tones and curving banquettes create zones of intimacy in front of an open kitchen. Regular customers have laid claim to “their tables” on the Veranda, a glass-enclosed waterside dining room with a breezy nautical decor and sweeping views along the Potomac. For private dining, there is a 12-seat chef’s table and three other airy spaces, including one with its own bar and waterfront entrance.

But any table is the perfect spot for “Under the Sea,” one of the chef’s favorite presentations. Each component dazzles the taste buds. “You see the quinoa at the bottom? That’s the sand and the maitake mushrooms are moving seaweed,” says Trabocchi, who easily mixes playfulness with an intense drive for perfection. “Like when I snorkel, under my sea there are Scottish langoustines, red spot king prawns from Australia and sea urchins from waters off Catalina Island [California]. Then I add black truffle and foie gras, as there’s a lot of surf and turf where I come from. Together, the brightness is spectacular.”

At the “Market Counter,” diners choose seasonal whole fish, which chefs then grill to order and servers debone tableside. Not to be missed is brodetto, the classic Adriatic fish stew, as well as crudo (raw fish selections), marinated and preserved fish, risotto entrees and seafood-based pasta, the latter available in half-portions. Flagship Fiola fans will find on the menu Trabocchi’s signature ginger-laced lobster ravioli and rich baba al rhum with pear and vanilla cream. Adding to the vision, the gorgeous hand-molded, sea-inspired iridescent tableware is by Alison Evans Ceramics of Yarmouth, Me.

“The idea is a palacio in Venice, spacious yet cozy. Even if you are alone, there are lots of different ambiances,” says Maria Trabocchi, who delights in her front-of-the-house work, greeting and seating. “For me, I enjoy tremendously making customers’ memories.”

Fiola Mare

Washington Harbour, 3050 K St., NW

202-628-0065

[fiolamaredc.com](http://fiolamaredc.com/)

Georgetowner dining columnist Walter Nicholls is the food critic for Arlington Magazine and a former staff writer for The Washington Post Food section.

[gallery ids="101667,144706,144695,144703,144691,144681,144676,144672,144686,144699" nav="thumbs"]

Easter Brunching at Its Best
•

If Washingtonians could go pro in one thing it would be brunching. With the Easter holiday around the corner, D.C. chefs and restaurants are offering up their best mix of mid-day eats. From family friendly meals with the Easter bunny to quiet waterside venues, there’s an appealing menu for every appetite.

1789

Easter brunch at iconic 1789 includes a table side appearance of the Easter Bunny and a two-course Easter brunch menu including an asparagus and bacon tartlet with smokey blue cheese, caramelized spring onions and vincotto as a first course option and a main course selection of leg of lamb with fennel spiced yogurt, crispy chickpeas and pea shoots. Entree prices range from $28-40.

1226 36th Street NW, 202-965-1789

Billy Martin’s Tavern

Washington’s oldest family-owned restaurant, Billy Martin’s Tavern, is serving up a spinoff of their house brunch favorites. Appearing on the Easter menu is caramelized banana French toast served with brandy macerated berry compote and applewood bacon, ham or link sausage as well as Chef’s eggs benedict – a fried green tomato, topped jumbo lump crab and two poached eggs covered with hollandaise.

1264 Wisconsin Ave. NW, 202-333-7370

Brasserie Beck

Only at a Belgian restaurant are waffles a side order. Brasserie Beck’s brunch boasts traditional favorites like chicken and waffles with jalapeno maple syrup or Quiche Lorraine with farm egg custard, bacon lardons, petite green salad and sherry vinaigrette. And if waffles with a side of waffles is too much for you, try the caramelized Brussels sprouts with smoked bacon and poached pear. Entrees $14-28.

1101 K Street NW, 202-408-1717

Fiola Mare

Georgetown’s newest upscale seafood spot will be featuring a number of brunch specialties including their dangerously delicious morning pastry basket. Served with fresh fruit jams, chocolate hazelnut sauce and local honey this brunch starter will fill your carb quota for the month. A unique twist on eggs benedict is the uova in camicia – homemade biscuits topped with two poached eggs, smoked salmon and rosemary hollandaise. Enjoy the house Bellini to top off this brunch. Entrees $16-28.

3050 K Street NW, 202-628-0065

Teddy & The Bully Bar

Teddy’s Easter brunch is full of locally sourced foods from Pennsylvania and Maryland farms. Two courses, endless carving and omelet and stations, homemade ice cream cone bar and endless sides fill the menu. First course starts with the choice of fresh berries, a variety of flatbreads or grilled romaine salad. Feed your sweet tooth prior to dessert with a main course brioche s’more French toast with cinnamon French toast, melted chocolate and marshmallow fluff. $55 per person, 12 years and younger $21.

1200 19th St NW, 202-872-8700

Tony & Joe’s Seafood Place

Tony & Joe’s Seafood Place at Georgetown’s Washington Harbor will be serving up a live jazz brunch on Easter Sunday featuring the Red Velvet Trio and a seafood-filled spread complete with freshly shucked oysters and clams, poached salmon and a carving station for the land lovers. $35 per person or $45 with bottomless mimosas.

3000 K Street NW, 202-944-4545

Malmaison

Easter brunch at Malmaison will feature foods across the board from salads to savory crepes to eggs served up a variety of ways with sautéed duck fat potatoes. One of the creative brunch cocktail is the Bubbly Bun – cinnamon infused whiskey, maple syrup, champagne and flamed orange. Entrees $12.95-25.95

3401 K Street NW, 202-817-3340 [gallery ids="101693,143940,143943" nav="thumbs"]

Town House Not Making a Home in Georgetown
• March 13, 2014

Chef John Shields’s plans to move into Georgetown have fallen through. Shields told the Washington Post: “We couldn’t make the numbers work” for his projected space at 1050 Potomac St., NW.

The restaurant in the works was never named but was planned to be an extension of his Chilhowie, Va., restaurant, Town House, which closed two years ago. Shields and Karen Urie Shields, his wife and pastry chef, are still searching for space in Washington, but the couple is heading back to Virginia to offer dinners at Riverstead, the intimate inn that lodged Town House goers.

The chef duo originally hail from Chicago and are renowned for their work at Charlie Trotter’s and Alinea.

The couple’s first dinner at Riverstead will be held April 18 and will offer more than a dozen courses for $150, the Post reported. The dinners will no doubt be exclusive as the Victorian farmhouse that houses Riverstead. Built in 1903 and renovated in 2009, it can accommodate a mere 14 guests. Chilhowie is approximately five hours from Georgetown.

“We are still fully committed to getting the D.C. restaurant off the ground,” Shields told the Post, “but at least this will get us back in the mix.”

Your Most Burning Wine Question Answered
• March 3, 2014

I am often asked to conduct tastings or classes for people who want to learn more about wine –or at least gain a greater appreciation for it. And I often get some really great questions, things that people have wanted to know for years but have been afraid to ask. So, to help demystify wine, I’m going to answer some of the most frequently asked questions here…

Are ratings or wine scores a good guide to whether a wine will be good? 

 
Think of wine ratings or scores like movie ratings. Sometimes they can be really subjective and inaccurate and sometimes they are spot-on. Absent any other information, they might be helpful to you when choosing between two similar wines on the shelf in the wine shop, but I like to say: form your own opinion and drink what you like.
 

Do I need a different glass for each type of wine?

 
No. Although you can invest in every type of wine glass from Riesling to Bordeaux, it’s not necessary when you are starting out. A basic white wine glass or an all-purpose wine glass is fine to begin with. Let your collection of glasses grow with your tastes and knowledge. The more advanced wine taster will notice how the shape of the glass improves the enjoyment of the wine, but if you are a novice, don’t stress yourself out trying to complete your set.
 

Can I leave my red wine at room temperature?

 
Actually, no. Red wines will benefit from a slight cooling-off. Room temperature here in the U.S. is typically too warm to really enjoy reds as they were intended. At home, pop your reds into the fridge for 15-20 minutes before serving.

 
Are screw caps OK?

 
Yes, in fact some winemakers think the metal screw cap is the ideal closure, ensuring that the wine gets to the consumer in the best condition. It is commonly thought that screw caps are good closures for everyday drinking wines, i.e., about 98 percent of the wine sold – what you will commonly find in the local wine shop and grocery store. But some believe that long, natural corks are the best closure for wine made to age. The natural cork allows the impartation of a certain amount of air into the wine. This is part of the aging process that gives aged wine its character.

 
What’s the best way to start learning about wine?

 
I always recommend that students taste different wines at every opportunity. It’s easy to find a wine you like and stick to that. However, you will never expand your knowledge and train your palate to detect different flavors that way. When you go to a restaurant, order a different glass of something or ask if you can taste several wines before settling on one.

 
Does a high price guarantee that I’ll like the wine?

 

No, a high retail price might be an indicator of quality or of the popularity of a wine. It has no bearing on whether you will like it. Don’t discount reasonably priced wines. There are some great buys out there.

 

How do I get wine stains off clothes?

 

Try pouring a small amount of rubbing alcohol on the stain, with a white cloth underneath to absorb the stain. If the stain remains, try mixing hydrogen peroxide and Dawn dish liquid into a solution and spot-cleaning with this.

 
What are wine clubs and should I join one? 

 
Generally, there are two types of wine clubs. The first type is run by individual wineries. It allows their customers to buy directly from them through the mail, thus cutting out the middlemen. If you like a particular wine or winery, this is a good option for you. You sign up for their mailing list of releases and, as a club member, you usually get first dibs on purchasing the upcoming vintages. The other type of club is run by a wine merchant or a retailer. You pay a fee to have their selection of wines sent to you monthly or quarterly. This type of club is good for beginning wine drinkers who want to get broad exposure to wines and don’t know what they like yet.

I hope this clears up some of the questions you, too, might have had about wine, and gets you ready to embark on your next great wine experience. Cheers!

If you have more questions, follow me on Twitter: @sharisheffield

The Latest Dish- February 26, 2014
• February 28, 2014

Matchbox Food Group is on a roll – or a tidal wave, as the case may be. Their classic comfort-food concept, Ted’s Bulletin, kicked off February with an opening in Reston Town Center where Uno’s used to be. Matchbox Food Group veteran Jacob Hunter is their opening executive chef. Kelsey Pitta has moved up to pastry chef, handling the new location as well as the Ted’s Bulletin locations on Capitol Hill and 14th Street.

Chef and Manager Updates: Josh Fatemi has been named bar manager for the new cocktail program on the first floor of Roofers Union in Adams Morgan. Previously, he was at Pearl Dive Oyster Palace and Black Jack and Bourbon. . .Vanessa Ochotorena has been named pastry chef for Roofers Union as well as its big sister, Ripple. She trained at Ripple under Alison Reed and Marjorie Meek-Bradley. Giovanni Carlo, former chef of Panache in Tysons Corner, is now the chef at Ovvio in Merrifield, Va. He had worked under Roberto Donna at Galileo. . .Bluejacket Brewery has a new beer brewer, Owen Miller, who joins beer director Greg Engert as well as Bobby Bump and Josh Chapman on the Bluejacket brewing team.

Upcoming Openings: A new Cafe Deluxe is slated to open in early May in D.C.’s West End in the Hilton Garden Inn currently under construction. This will be the fifth Cafe Deluxe. Other locations include Cleveland Park, Tysons Corner, Bethesda and Gaithersburg…Bryan Voltaggio is planning to open Lunchbox at the Chevy Chase Pavilion in late summer, bringing yet another of his concepts to the D.C. market His Range eatery is already at that property. Heavy Seas Alehouse in Rosslyn plans to open by the end of February. . .A new restaurant and club called Mpire Club is slated to open near Dupont Circle by the end of the first quarter of 2014.
 
Helen Wasserman of Helen’s Catering plans to take over the Rockville location where Addie’s used to be. With her headwaiter, Kevin Bullock, she will open Crave by Helen, featuring an “East meets West” menu. Helen owned and operated Helen’s on D.C.’s 18th St., NW, in the mid-1980s. The caterer envisions nights devoted to Asian cooking, dishes from El Salvador and meals prepared for take-out. The plan is to extend the front of Addie’s, adding a catering kitchen (as her site in D.C. will close) and a smoker. A spring 2014 opening is planned.
 
By popular (healthy food) demand, Eamonn’s A Dublin Chipper in Arlington will be morphing into Society Fair, their market, butchery and bakery by the end of the month. Todd Thrasher, Cathal Armstrong and their partners plan to expand the concept beyond Old Town Alexandria and Arlington.
  
Just Opened: Rí Rá in Georgetown just opened on M Street where Mie N Yu used to be. The Irish pub got a head start on St. Patrick’s Day. . .Miami-based Joe’s Seafood, Prime Steak and Stone Crab just opened in downtown D.C. at 15th and H Sts., NW… .Au Bon Pain opened a new café in D.C. at 801 17th St., NW (in Lafayette Tower at the corner of 17th and H Streets). It is the 21st Au Bon Pain café to open in the metro area. . .Smashburger recently opened in Tysons Corner and in Gainesville, Va. . .Johnny Rockets’ newest restaurant opened at Tanger Outlets at National Harbour.

What’s Cooking, Neighbor? Teresa Velazquez
• February 27, 2014

No matter what the occasion – a birthday, staff gathering or family reunion – Teresa Velazquez dusts the kitchen counter top with flour and makes her have-to-have pizza from scratch. The main course is most often a pie topped with assorted vegetables and pepperoni. But first in the oven goes an “appetizer pizza” covered with caramelized onion and goat cheese, everyone’s party-starting preference.

“It’s very rich, and you don’t want to eat five slices of it,” says Velazquez, co-owner of the Georgetown coffee bar and bakery destination Baked & Wired, which she opened with her husband Tony in 2001. (She traces her love of pizza-making to her hometown of Columbus, Ohio, where her German-Irish parents ran a weekend-only pie shop called “Teresa’s Pizza.”) Anticipating the all-pizza menu, guests gather at the couple’s wood frame farmhouse on lower Foxhall Road.

Velazquez is better known for the hand-crafted small batch fruit pies, cupcakes, brownies and cookies, available at Baked & Wired and shipped nationwide. Our favorite (and her choice as well) is the buttery, sweet and salty “Bee Sting” shortbread bar with a honey almond topping. Just as exceptional is the shop’s addictive golden crisp “Hippie Crack” granola, loaded with bits of tart dried cherries and Turkish apricots.

Over the last decade, the family business, tucked away on Thomas Jefferson Street, has grown significantly and now has more than 40 employees. Teresa directs baking quality control, while Tony oversees what she calls “our evolving direction of business.” Son Zak, 26, is in charge of the coffee program and daughter Tessa, 24, handles social media and marketing.
Their success has much to do with attention to detail, the high quality of the baked goods and the shop’s mellow atmosphere. “We are extremely neighborhood-focused and feel we are part of Georgetown,” she says. “That’s tremendously important to us.” More and more tourists are stopping in for a slice of quiche and a ice cream sandwich. Word has spread. In the August issue of Travel & Leisure magazine, B & W was named one of “America’s Best Bakeries.”

For home entertaining, chef Velazquez always presents the pizza pies on a classic John Boos & Company butcher block cutting board, sliced into 3-inch squares. Wedges don’t cut it. “It’s a regional thing,” says Velazquez. “That’s how we do it in Ohio.

CARAMELIZED ONION GOAT CHEESE PIZZA

Ingredients:

For the dough:

1 3/4 cups warm water (100 to 110 degrees)

1 envelope (2-1/4 teaspoons) active dry yeast

2 teaspoons sugar

2 tablespoons mild olive oil, plus more for bowl, sheet pan and cooked pizza

4 cups bread flour, preferable King Arthur

2 teaspoons kosher salt

About 1 cup whole wheat flour, but depends on dough, you can use the bread flour but the whole wheat gives dough a hint of a nutty flavor)

For the topping:

3 large yellow onions about 1 1/2 pounds

5 to 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons finely chopped garlic

1 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 tablespoons sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 cups shredded fontina cheese

1 1/2 cups packaged shredded Italian mix cheese

4 ounces goat cheese

1/3 cup pine nuts

Baby arugula (optional)

Directions:

Prepare the dough: In a small bowl, mix together the warm water, yeast and sugar. Let sit for about 15 minutes until a layer of foam has accumulated on the surface. Mix in 1 tablespoon of the oil.

In a large bowl, whisk together the bread flour and salt. Slowly add the yeast mixture to the flour, stirring to combine. Once flour is incorporated, dust work surface with some of the whole wheat flour and transfer the dough mixture to the floured surface. Knead, adding more flour if necessary, until the dough comes together is a spongy ball that can hold its shape but is still is slightly sticky. Do not over knead.

Coat bowl with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Place the dough in the bowl and turn the dough over to thoroughly coat with the oil. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let the dough rise until double in size, 1 1/2 to 2 hours.

Prepare the topping: Heat 3 tablespoons of the oil in a large nonstick sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the onions, sugar and salt and adjust the heat to medium. Cook, stirring every couple of minutes, until the onions are soft and have turned a light golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Set aside to cool.

Assemble the pizza: Adjust the oven racks so one is in the lower third of the oven. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Use 2 tablespoons of the oil to lightly grease a 12-by-16-inch rimmed silver baking sheet, or one of similar size, a dark sheet will cook the bottom of the pie too fast.

Dust the work surface with whole wheat flour as needed. Transfer the dough to the floured surface and knead 3 or 4 times to remove any air pockets. Let rest 5 minutes. Using your hands, spread the dough out in the pan, gently pushing it into place to form an even layer. If the dough resists, let it rest for a few minutes and try again. Let rest 15 minutes.

When the dough is ready, drizzle a thin coat of olive oil over the surface of the dough. Distribute the chopped garlic and red pepper flakes, sprinkle on fontina and Italian cheeses. Top with the caramelized onions. Place pieces of goat cheese on top and then sprinkle with the pine nuts.

Transfer to the preheated oven and bake for about 10 minutes until the edges start to get golden and the crust is firm enough to be moved off the pan. Remove from the oven, loosen the pizza from pan with a large flat spatula and slide pizza directly back onto the oven rack. Bake for 10 minutes until crust is brown. Remove from oven and place on a cooling rack for at least 5 minutes. Lightly drizzle top with olive oil and, if desired, top with the baby arugula.Slide onto cutting board and cut into squares.

El Centro: a Mexican Reconquest
•

The insides of 1218 Wisconsin Ave., NW, have been totally altered. The Third Edition has been booted and replaced by a second edition of El Centro, a restaurant featuring tacos, tequila and more. Most of the menu items match those of the original Richard Sandoval restaurant, located on 14th Street, NW. About 40 percent of the items are new, however. Restaurant guests will find fajitas on this menu, as well as new taco and enchilada options.

Four Georgetowner staffers got a chance to taste-test and see El Centro during its grand-opening week Sept. 6. The friendliness of the initial greet matched the lively crowd.
The décor mimics the original El Centro’s style, both restaurants embracing a Mexico City theme. The restaurant is very dim, illuminated only by dark turquoise windows and small candles upon the wooden tabletops.
We promptly ordered the spicy mango and regular margaritas, and the paloma was given high notes from its recipient: our list including fruity, spicy and regular margaritas, palomas, mojitos and Coronas.

After devouring handfuls of chips and exceptional salsa, we ordered two types of guacamole. Avocado fanatics will not get bored at El Centro as the menu kicks off with four different kinds of guacamole. The tuna tartare and spicy crab were our picks.

Appetizers next! We each got one, and sharing ensued. Our orders included ceviche, a shrimp and citrus soup, pork sopas, mushroom empanadas and chicken tamales. The table found the ceviche all right, but the rest of the items got higher marks.
Our entrees came out with top-notch presentation: steak, pork carnitas, chipotle shrimp, and mushroom huarache.

The steak arrived garnished with peppers and onions with a cornhusk-wrapped tamale on the side. All traces of steak were gone at the end of the meal, thanks to a very content eater.

Another at the table enjoyed the pork carnitas, a chef’s favorite. Guacamole, habanero salsa, Mexican rice and charro beans were sent out as toppings, while tortillas sat beside the plate in a heating dish. The carnita recipient loved her meal, with the exception of the very salty beans. She had enough food left over to pack up and take some home.

Chipotle shrimp came out atop richly vegetable-induced rice. The shrimp were big and fresh, unlike the shrimp in the ceviche. There was enough for her to take some home, too.

I had chosen mushroom huarache, a small mushroom and goat cheese pizza, basically, from the relatively short list of vegetarian options. My meal was delicious, despite the crust being a little hard. I was able to comfortably finish my food even after having eaten so much beforehand.

Despite our being full and some having leftovers, my group did not pass on dessert. We ordered tres leche and churros. The tres leche, a moist sponge cake topped with bananas and cream, came with fruity custard on the side. I enjoyed the cake more than the thin churros that came with chocolate, caramel and passion fruit dipping sauces.

After hoisting ourselves from our chairs, we ventured upstairs to check out the bigger bar and the balcony. The balcony overlooks an open lower patio, lit by strings of white lights. This area, weather permitting, has the best eye appeal of the entire restaurant.

We stopped in the upstairs bathroom before parting. It is worth noting. While there are two doors, which are unmarked but could be mistaken for gender-specific entrances, there is only one room. It contains six stalls, three on each side. There are sinks and water barrels in the center, and the two halves of the bathroom are set up as mirror images of one another. An illusion! You think you are staring into a mirror while washing your hands, until someone, who might be of the opposite sex, walks out of a stall right across from you. Surprise! Never a fan of waiting in long lines at ladies’ room and watching men walk in and out of their room, I am a fan of this genderless setup. El Centro might end up being awarded “Best Bathroom in D.C.,” or it might make some patrons uncomfortable.

A first, unofficial review of El Centro? In a nutshell, it has an eager, helpful staff, succulent food and delicious drinks. Stop by El Centro at Wisconsin & M. It looks like it will be a hit. And don’t forget to check out the bathroom. [gallery ids="101447,153651" nav="thumbs"]

What’s Cooking, Neighbor? Gerard Pangaud
•

Gerard Pangaud and his wife Ann Casso would love to entertain more often in the garden of their Glover Park home, where they have lived for seven years. One problem. “We don’t have a lot of friends and we have found it’s hard to meet people. Everyone is always busy with no time to socialize,” says Pangaud, the executive chef at the Bethesda-based Marriott International headquarters. He oversees breakfast, lunch and catering, serving 1,500 employee meals a day.

The couple’s neighbors don’t know what they are missing. In his native France, just before his 28th birthday, Pangaud was the youngest chef to receive two stars from the Michelin Guide. In 1993 and for the following 13 years, he thrilled diners with his creative cooking at the critically acclaimed Gerard’s Place on McPherson Square downtown. Before joining Marriott, he was the executive chef at the Pentagon. This culinary genius turns groceries into greatness.

He will tell you that his recipe for sweet potato vichyssoise “started in my brain at Gerard’s Place.” Sweet potatoes are usually very starchy. “But when you put in anise, celery and ginger, it gives a pep.” And the finished dish: “It’s not only tasty, it’s elegant, a word we are losing in cooking.” To dress it up, “put a little crab meat on top.”

A key ingredient is good chicken stock, and the chef knows that many people don’t have time to prepare it properly. For his own pantry needs, he taste-tested 21 brands. With a laugh, he announces the winner. “You wouldn’t believe it. It was Swanson. There is structure, and it’s not too salty.”

His recipe calls for the addition of high-fat heavy cream for richness, but this avid golfer and power walker, who recently dropped 25 pounds, says a substitution of Greek yogurt works nicely. “Either way,” he says, “the soup is a beautiful summer orange.”

Never idle, Pangaud is also a menu consultant for the recently opened Malmaison, a Parisian- inspired coffee and pastry bar, restaurant, night club and event space under the Whitehurst Freeway at 3401 K Street NW, a new venture from the Popal family, owner of Napoleon Bistro in Adams Morgan and Cafe Bonaparte in Georgetown.

Pangaud’s current favorite restaurants: Et Voila in the Palisades, Estadio in Logan Circle and Co Co Sala in downtown.

SWEET POTATO VICHYSSOISE WITH ANISE
(serves 4)

1 lb sweet potatoes
1 generous cup minced celery
1 cup chopped onions
4¼ cups chicken stock
4 star anise
1 tablespoon chopped ginger
1½ tablespoons butter
1/3 cup heavy cream or plain Greek yogurt
fennel greens, optional garnish

Peel the potatoes and dice them in 1/3-inch cubes, sauté in butter with the onions until golden colored. Add the minced celery, ginger, star anise, and chicken stock. Season with salt and pepper and cook for 25 minutes.

Remove from heat and allow flavors to infuse for 30 minutes. Remove the star anise and put in a blender, puree until smooth; strain. Cool the mixture thoroughly in the refrigerator, whisk in the cream or yogurt before serving with a garnish of fennel greens.

What’s Cooking, Neighbor? visits with wine, food and entertaining professionals, who call the Georgetown area home. Georgetowner dining columnist Walter Nicholls is the food critic for Arlington Magazine, a former staff writer for The Washington Post Food section.
[gallery ids="99245,104156,104154" nav="thumbs"]