Stomping through the Wineries

September 10, 2014

Two bags of Peanut M&Ms from the gas station, a shared bottle of Aquafina, a touring guide to Loudoun County wineries, and we were off to get a quick handle on the whole “wine thing” that everyone talks about but that we snarked-off as a bit too snobby for our down-to-earth sensibilities.  We thought our tastes had already moved up considerably from the days of Everclear punch and flat beer in red Solo cups when we up-scaled to the expensive bar shots of Patrón and Grey Goose.  Frankly, our experience with wine was limited to “Three-Buck Chuck”and Manischewitz at my mom’s house twice a year. Clearly we knew better than those haughty folks who hauled their cookies all over the place to “become one” with the grape. After all, wine is wine, right?

On the one day this month that Erin and I both have off together, we were both dead set on doing something other than our usual piling of shopping carts with projects we’ll never actually finish from Michael’s and The Home Depot. With the thought of adventure spurring us on we set out for a great adventure in the wilderness. Not actually being the super adventurous types we looked for something just far enough outside of D.C. to have cows and suitably romantic dusty back roads, but that would also still leave enough time in the day to stop at the mall in Tysons for a quick Cinnabon and then on to a movie about a raccoon and tree that help guard the galaxy.

We headed to the northern tip of Loudoun County on Route 9. Erin drove, I fell asleep and Google navigated us through a couple of short life lessons that went a long way in establishing that we were the real wine snobs.

Our first stop was the Corcoran Winery. There is a zero snooty factor about the place. Erin even used the word “charming” out loud before catching herself.  The folks hanging out at the winery seemed totally without the pretension that we had previously, and now to our mutual chagrin, derisively projected onto all those we saw as the high-born bourgeois wine-swirling and goblet-sniffing crowd.

This place was exactly what we didn’t know we needed. After walking past the rows of vines, a good number of picnic tables and ponds appeared. At the tables were folks just hanging out as if they were in some hyper-glorious rural backyard. The vibe was definitely laid-back but not sleepy. Just a few feet away stands a small, super-rustic tasting house where the people working behind the bar actually seemed to enjoy the wine they poured and the people they were pouring for. The various groups “tasting” that day included a thirty-something woman and her friends enjoying a low-key birthday celebration; another group getting ready to go to a Nat’s game; and in the corner, a cluster of three friends huddled together and shaking-off a bit of city angst before heading into a new work week.  Corcoran’s tasting room is by no means a fancy place. T-shirts, shorts and sandals seemed the outfit for the day.  It hurts a little to say, but the wine we tasted there left the “Three-Buck Chuck” and the Manischewitz we thought of as wine, as firmly displaced as the grain alcohol punches and the bad frat house beer of earlier years. We even began thinking about where in our house we could build a kinda-sorta wine rack from the wood I bought on our last outing to Home Depot for the closet shelves we both knew I’d never really get to.

Our next stop was the Crushed Cellars winery, a small boutique winery that puts out about 1,500 cases of wine from their ten acres of land. The affable owner Bob Kalok gave us a bit of a tour and showed us the actual grape part of the process as he made his way to feeding the koi in one of the winery’s ponds. We walked among the vines and while not quite Provence, by the last row Erin and I were holding hands and talking about getting out of town more often, maybe to a bed and breakfast. For God’s sake, this place even had a dog sleeping on the floor in the sun and folks sipping their wine on a terrace while over-looking the grapes that would find their way into the next batch. There was something about the serenity that seemed to seep through the place. We didn’t feel like strangers in a strange land. We were among friends we didn’t know an hour before and when we left, we left with a case of wine and no desire to get that Cinnabon. If we did rush out, it was to get home and start building that wine rack that Erin was already sketching out on the back of the Wine Touring Guide.   [gallery ids="101849,138461,138456,138453,138448,138445,138440,138469,138474,138472,138464" nav="thumbs"]

Bunny Mellon’s Greatest Treasure: Oak Springs Farm in Upperville


Bunny Mellon’s expansive Oak Springs Farm just hit the market, listed by Washington Fine Properties. Rachel Lambert Mellon died at the remarkable age of 103 earlier this year, and her Upperville, Va., property has just arrived on the market for a whopping $70 million. The farm was the fabulously wealthy Mellon’s greatest treasure – a private hideaway where she pursued her deepest passions and entertained some of the world’s biggest celebrities.

In Washington, D.C., Bunny and her philanthropist husband Paul Mellon are best known for their generous donation of more than 1,000 18th- and 19th-century European paintings to the National Gallery of Art. The couple also forged a fruitful relationship with the Kennedy family in the 1950s. The friendship was born on a visit to Oak Springs by first lady Jacqueline Kennedy, who was so inspired by the property that she requested Bunny’s advice on fine arts and antiques for the White House restoration. Later on during the presidency, Bunny was invited back to redesign the White House Rose Garden. She also landscaped Jaqueline Kennedy Onassis’s Martha’s Vineyard home and the JFK Presidential Library and arranged flowers for President John Kennedy’s funeral and Caroline Kennedy’s 1986 wedding in Hyannis Port, Mass.

Her Oak Springs estate embodies the things we remember most about Bunny – her passion for the arts, her love of horses, her zeal for gardening and her aversion to public attention.

Bunny cultivated the farm’s breathtaking 2,000 acres to the tee, with vine-draped arbors, sprawling meadows, neatly arranged flowerbeds and secret gardens. She added barns, stables, guest houses, a pool house, a small farmhouse that acted as Mellon’s home in later life, and the “Brick House,” a neo-Georgian mansion, designed by William Adams Delano.

Additionally, the property is sprinkled with beautiful outdoor sculpture — including a bronze statue of the Mellons’ Kentucky Derby winning horse, Sea Hero — enchanting garden fountains and classically inspired, half-draped nude stone figures. The famously private Mrs. Mellon even installed a private mile-long airstrip, a rarity at the time for a private home in the mid-Atlantic states.

Exquisite details drip from ever corner of the property’s interior space. Murals in the greenhouse trick the eye, with their trompe l’oeil portrayal of baskets, water cans and a host of other gardening supplies. Also depicted are personal items, like Bunny’s gardening hat, coat and cigarette case. The tromp d’loeil continues in the form of painted sun shade on the kitchen tiles inside Little Oak Spring, a small farmhouse, designed by H. Page Cross as a cozier house for the Mellons later on in life.

Bunny’s ardor for horticulture led to the creation of the Oak Springs Garden Library, a collection of art, artifacts, rare books and manuscripts on all things gardening. The library was expanded in 2010. Before her death Mrs. Mellon, established the Gerald B. Lambert Foundation to maintain the building and the collection it houses.

While Bunny owned properties in locales ranging from Antigua to Paris to Nantucket, she considered Oak Springs Farm her home. Accordingly, she and her husband displayed their impressive art collection, spanning centuries of work, all around their estate for their own and their guests’ enjoyment. As America’s quintessential trendsetter, Bunny was an avid collector of jewelry, clothing and other decorative objects. She even employed her own carpenter to design custom pieces for Oak Spring Farm’s interior.

Unfortunately for potential buyers, Bunny’s personal estate is not being sold alongside the farm – her treasured possessions will begin being auctioned off by Sotheby’s in November. Sales are expected to net more than $100 million with proceeds, benefitting the Garden Library and a number of other entities dear to Bunny’s heart. However, the property itself represents an opportunity for prospective buyers to own a piece of history and become a part of the Mellon’s far-reaching legacy.
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Blackberry Farm

August 7, 2014

“It’s like discovering a pearl in the wilderness,” says a Versace-clad woman to her dinner companions while I sip a glass of Cabernet and savor a bit of eavesdropping at Blackberry Farm. It is the perfect description.

Few would expect such refinement in the foothills of the Great Smoky Mountains in eastern Tennessee. Don’t bother looking for a sign on the main road to guide you to a place where chic and sheep coincide–gawkers are discouraged. In fact, the average tourist has never heard of this rural retreat and that suits Blackberry Farm just fine. They don’t advertise. Instead, word-of-mouth, articles in high-end publications, top rankings on nearly every “best resort” list plus awards from the James Beard Foundation and Wine Spectator feed the momentum. Hollywood celebs, West Coast techies and those in the know (rumor has it Oprah and Martha Stewart have stayed here) frequent this bucolic resort/spa/gourmet getaway for exceptional and very private R&R.

Even the word “resort” feels wrong; “experience” is a better description. With only 62 rooms and cottages on 4,200 acres (plus an additional 5,000 acres of private wilderness for fox hunting, horseback riding, fly fishing or hiking) this Relais & Chateaux working farm and gastronomic mecca offers perks that are far from its golf and ski alternatives (they don’t have either.)

They do have a dairy, creamery, charcuterie and brewery plus a master cheesemaker, beekeeper, chocolatier and preservationist who oversees all jam making. Jams are sold on the farm as well as to fancy food emporiums throughout the U.S. (the blueberry is to die for).

All vegetables served are grown on the farm and only heirloom seeds are used. Milk from the sheep is used to make their yogurt and cheeses. A butcher and baker are on staff and odds are, a candlestick maker is there, too. The sommelier and his team oversee a 221 page wine list representing 160,000 bottles, including rare vintages such as a $14,000 bottle of Montrachet.

There’s more. The farm is cultivating truffles. To hunt for them, assuming they materialize (there are no guarantees for this ten-year project), they breed rare Lagotto Romagnolo dogs imported from Italy. Fall in love with a puppy? They are for sale–$6,000 each, trained with commands given exclusively in Italian, of course. Untrained, the price is halved.

Privately owned and managed by the Beall family since the early 70’s, Blackberry Farm employs a staff of 375 to care for its pampered guests. Room rates include three glorious meals each day and begin at $795; cottage suites from $1495.

The place has been on my bucket list since before bucket lists became trendy. When the farm’s new spa, Wellhouse, opened I talked my husband into a three night stay.

On arrival, our car is whisked away. We won’t need it again until we leave–each cottage comes with its own golf cart. If we want a lift anywhere, a fleet of new Lexus cars is available, with or without a driver.

From the outside, our dark brown wood-framed cottage tucked in the woods appears unremarkable. Inside, we find all the bells and whistles of a luxury hotel–soaring 17-foot ceiling in the living/bedroom, polished wood floors topped with eclectic furnishings, Frette linens and robes plus a pantry stocked with complimentary snacks. The bathroom is big enough for a family reunion.

Despite the temptation to hang out in the fancy digs, we head outdoors, winding our way through pastures dotted with horses and a dozen piglets following their mom. We discover a crystal clear trout stream, a tranquil lake and we linger at the boat house before putting a canoe to use. While there are plenty of activities—yoga, fly fishing, horseback riding, and archery for starters–there is something to be said for doing nothing. The only thing on my ‘to do’ list is visiting the spa.

Face down on the massage table, my dings and dents are tweaked with warm poultices filled with healing herbs and flowers that are pressed into my body. The warmth and fragrance reduce me to Jell-O. Am I detoxed as the treatment promises? Who cares. I head to the outdoor pool and fantasize about our next hedonistic adventure: dinner.

“Good evening” says the tall young man who swoops down upon us, ready to fulfill our every wish. I’m having trouble focusing on menu choices. Instead, I’m fixated on the room, a splendid turn-of-the-century barn with high ceilings and massive beams.

I place the snowy white antique linen napkin on my lap and scan the French china and sterling silver. Given the game plan, we anticipate a hoity-toity menu. While there is plenty of haute cuisine, the forward-thinking chef creatively combines fancier fare with southern Foothills food. And, he doesn’t take himself too seriously–Guinea Hen Croquettes with White Truffle Sauce are served on a bed of “straw” topping a piece of tree bark. My husband’s pate is served on slate at the same time my Swiss Chard Salad is presented on white gold-rimmed china.

Dinner may be the star each day but breakfast and lunch aren’t far behind. Both are served in a room you would expect to find in a private country estate. In our cozy banquette, surrounded by the owner’s impressive art collection and antique furnishings, we decide that the most beautiful art (and there’s plenty of it) is the daily vista of fog hanging over the Smokies as viewed from the sprawling stone terrace.

By day three, we’re accustomed to being spoiled. At checkout, a perky young man appears with two boxed lunches for our trip home. Even they aren’t ordinary–turkey sandwiches with scallion mayonnaise on rosemary flatbread, containers of radish and stewed-apple salad and the most extraordinary chocolate chip cookies on the planet.

As we drive down the country road, with windows wide open, a blast of fresh warm air whips my face. All I can utter is one word, ‘a-maz-ing.’ Maybe tomorrow I’ll think of something more poetic. [gallery ids="101828,139214,139219,139225,139208,139228,139240,139236,139233" nav="thumbs"]

Mixing Health and Hedonism: The Little Washington Spa

July 2, 2014

The mountains in the early summer light were luminescent. The wildflowers swayed in the morning breeze. And the sun cast languid shadows across Main Street in the charming, historic town of Washington, Va.

It was one of those perfect days in Rappahannock County that those who live here never seem to take for granted – the days that make visitors wonder why they never discovered the place or why it took them so long to return.

A smiling Buddha and the peaceful tinkling of flowing water welcome the lucky spa-goer as she enters Little Washington Wellness and Spa. One thinks, “It doesn’t get any better than this.” But – it did.

Soft greens, blues and lavenders – tones of the meadows, the rivers and the Blue Ridge Mountains outside – reflect the spa’s connection to the land, to naturopathic pursuits and spiritual harmony. The calming, candlelit treatment rooms, smelling of fresh linens, are a prelude to the repose and relaxation to come.

The spa’s approach is best described as a union of natural healing and serenity with a hefty dollop of luxury.

Spa founder Jackie Meuse wanted to create a retreat where patrons could restore the body as well as the spirit. She is constantly refining, making sure that all of the elements –talented technicians, the best organic products, a setting that is both pretty and restful – coalesce into an excellent spa experience.

After lots of searching for and testing green, nature-based products, she discovered Eminence Organic Skin Care, a Hungarian line that touts its products as being good enough to eat. I can attest to being tempted.

“Having traveled to special healing and wellness places in the States and in China and Thailand, I made it a point to notice all the extra touches that I appreciated in those spots,” said Meuse. “I was sure that I wanted to have a center of wellness that draws upon the positive energy from the mountains and from the people in this wonderful place that is Rappahannock County.”

Her team of experienced and friendly specialists offers a full menu of spa services and detox treatments, with an emphasis on the holistic approach. The massage menu includes hot stone massage, Thai massage and reflexology, plus romantic and relaxing couples massages. An array of facials and body and nail treatments – including microdermabrasion, waxing and brow tinting – is also available.

My Spa Wellness Massage, an hour’s worth of bliss, easily compared to great massages I have had in many a far-flung, exotic location. Massage therapist Dustin Pennington, a graduate of the Virginia School of Massage in Charlottesville, expertly “read” my muscles (including a tightly clenched jaw muscle, a consequence of city living) and vanquished all remnants of soreness and stress. The aromas of warmed herbal and fruit-based unguents and oils seeped into my consciousness as I surrendered to total stress relief.

The Signature Facial, deftly administered by esthetician Ciera Backe, gently dislodged exhausted skin cells and toxins with fragrant strawberry rhubarb dermafoliant and soothing chamomile tonic. Although I was drawn to many of the ambrosial sounding hydrating and skin-boosting masques and serums – including Pumpkin Latte Hydration, Apricot Masque, Lime Stimulating Serum and Key Lime Vanilla Cream, redolent of healthy smoothies – I was guided to the Firm Skin Acai Masque, which limbered up my normally very dry skin. My face felt rejuvenated, gleaming and fresh.

It is important to Meuse, a county resident with her husband, Joe, and mom to two young boys, Hunt and Bo (plus two dogs, three horses, a few dozen chickens and two baby ducks), to ensure that her business serves the community.

“I have always felt so honored to be living where I do,” she said. “I want my neighbors in the county to know that this is for everyone, not just tourists. And I want the talented wellness practitioners who live and work in the county to know that together we are creating a place where everybody can come to feel happy and balanced. In a tight-knit community like ours, you have old-timers and newcomers who want to know they are equally cherished.”

In addition to in-house services, her staff provides mobile spa services to county residents in their homes – including Washingtonians with homes in the county who crawl out through the traffic on weekends. Once they get here, in-home spa services are a very attractive alternative to leaving their country cocoons.

Acknowledging its location in one of the most stunning rural counties in the state, the spa offers guided hikes in the gorgeous Rappahannock County countryside and the Shenandoah National Park, located nearby in Sperryville. For those who just can’t bear to leave, there is even a lovely suite available for weekend stays.

There is a trove of outdoor activities in the county, notably hiking and horseback-riding, along with beautiful wineries, a local distillery of fine bourbon and rye, terrific restaurants and a number of distinctive galleries, antiques shops and boutiques, including the well-stocked spa shop.

Little Washington Wellness and Spa aligns location and setting, making it the perfect spot to unplug and recharge. Even better, there is no need for planes or trains: it’s a pleasant 90-minute drive from Big Washington.

261 Main Street, Washington, Va.
540-675-1031
littlewashingtonspa.com

Michelle Galler, a resident of both Georgetown and Rappahannock County, Va., is a realtor with TTR Sotheby’s and an antiques dealer. [gallery ids="101795,140748,140745" nav="thumbs"]

A Royal Sprint to New York and the Hamptons

June 30, 2014

My recent jaunt to New York City and the Hamptons started in splendid style aboard the Royal Sprinter, a recently introduced luxury van with two daily trips to and from the Big Apple. My uniformed driver, Nacer Abdelisser, arrived ahead of time at our departure point, the Park Hyatt on 24th and M Streets, NW. With no takers for the optional pick-up at Embassy Suites in Chevy Chase, we were on our way.

Each custom-designed Mercedes Sprinter vehicle – equipped with individual reclining leather seats with leg extensions, power outlets, tray tables, seven-inch flat screen monitors with DirecTV and a WiFi connection – can accommodate up to eight passengers. On this occasion, the $90 trip took more than the estimated four hours to reach the Loews Regency Hotel on Park Avenue (New Jersey Turnpike accident, Puerto Rican Day Parade).

The East Side drop-off was particularly convenient as I was headed to the Intercontinental Barclay on 48th Street, under the able management of Hervé Houdré, who spent several years in D.C. at the Intercontinental Willard. My two-night stay allowed me to catch up with old friends and see the exhibitions “Charles James: Beyond Fashion” at the Metropolitan Museum of Art and “Degenerate Art: The Attack on Modern Art in Nazi Germany, 1937” at the nearby Neue Galerie.

I also had several excellent meals, including dinner at the Sea Fire Grill, a half-block from the Barclay, and a happy lunch at Arté on East 9th Street.

My Hamptons host and I then motored out to the Southampton hamlet of Water Mill. After excellent sushi and sashimi at Suki Zuki, we ended the evening in the over-the-top elegance of Bridgehampton’s Topping Rose House.

The next day, after he hit his real estate office, Brown Harris Stevens, in Southampton, we stopped by Hagins & Mortimer Design, a new store featuring important 20th-century artwork and furnishings, and caught a glimpse of Dash, the controversial Kardashian retail venture.

In Sag Harbor, a short jaunt to the north, we had a memorable sidewalk luncheon at the historic American Hotel and wandered down to the marina and the adjacent famed Bay Street Theater, where a matinee of the current production, “Conviction,” was letting out.

Shopping, several opulent open houses, dining at Pierre’s and Bobby Van’s in Bridgehampton…the whirlwind trip wrapped up with a farewell lunch at Silver’s in Southampton, now manned by the fourth generation of the founding family. Stuffed to the gills, I was deposited at Islip for a flight back to reality.

Whatever one needs to know about the Hamptons can be gleaned in the avidly read Dan’s Papers, the local version of The Georgetowner. [gallery ids="101774,141150,141165,141163,141155,141158" nav="thumbs"]

Hamptons Calendar

June 27, 2014

Through Aug. 4
Water Mill Post Office History Exhibit
Free exhibit at the Water Mill Museum: learn more about the historical background and its significance to the local community. 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., six days a week all summer; closed Tuesday. 41 Old Mill Road, Water Mill, N.Y.

June 20
‘Under the Influence’ Art Show
Curated by Peter Marcelle, explores the relationship between modern and contemporary artists and those who have inspired them. 6 p.m. to 8 p.m. Sag Harbor Whaling and Historical Museum, 200 Main St., Sag Harbor, N.Y.

Through July 20
‘Swells & Swirls’: Photo exhibition features award-winning photographers Matt Clark and Mike DiRenzo and Alex Ferrone’s Aerial Observations. Artists will have a gallery talk on July 13 at 2 p.m. Alex Ferrone Photography Gallery, 25425 Main Rd., Cutchogue, N.Y.

Through June 28
Zumba with Kinga Bikini Challenge 2014 Dance Fitness in the Hamptons
This aerobics class, held by European-American fitness dancer Kinga, offers calorie-burning fitness through intensive dancing. 6 p.m. to 7 p.m., Wednesday; 10 a.m. to 11 a.m., Saturday. World Taekwondo Academy (Karate Kids), 46 Old Country Road, Quogue, N.Y.

July 1 through Aug. 24
Summer Stages Musical Theater Camps
Two sessions for kids 8-18 looking to pursue a career in theatrical arts. Students will have the chance to perform in a musical production and partake in acting, singing and dancing classes. For schedules, see stagesworkshop.org. Southampton Town Recreation Center, Southampton, N.Y., and Pierson High School, Sag Harbor, N.Y.

July 26
James Beard Foundation’s Chefs and Champagne: Annual summer tasting party in the Hamptons. James Beard Award-winning chef, restaurateur, cookbook author Bobby Flay will be recognized. Local champagnes and wines, including Champagne Taittinger and Wölffer Estate Vineyard, will be served with dishes by 30 local chefs, 5 p.m., July 26, Wölffer Estate Vineyard, 183 Sagg Road, Sagaponack, N.Y. $275 or $200 for JBF members.

Equestrian Summer in Upperville and Great Meadow

June 4, 2014

Summer’s coming up quickly here in the Virginia countryside. The last of the fox hunters have gone to ground and it’s time for the rest of the sporting season: from the steeplechase races to polo, to the horse show season taking off, to fresh country fare at our local restaurants and farmers markets (yep, we’ll truck some of that in for y’all).

The Upperville Colt & Horse Show, the country’s oldest, began on Monday. Now in its 161st year, the show runs through Sunday, June 8, and features more than 2,000 horse-and-rider competitions. Set on the beautiful grounds of the historic Salem and Grafton Farms, “under the oaks,” Upperville combines everything from the finest show hunters in the country to Olympic-level jumper riders.

For me, personally, some of the best events are the Ladies Sidesaddle Hunters, where attire, or “turn out,” must be perfect down to the sandwich in the sandwich case (judges have been known to take a bite); the famous Upperville Grand Prix; and the leadline division, where tots on ponies are led by their parents.

A little bit more about that. Leadline is held on Saturday following the sidesaddle. Children ages 1-6 will be dressed in their own twee finery, in full-on adorable mode. The Grand Prix, featuring some of the best horses and riders in the world, is held on Sunday.

My suggestion: make a day of it. Pack up your coolers with some tailgate-style foods and beverages (preferably adult, but don’t overdo it), grab some chairs and sit on the hill to watch the jumpers go. There will also be an antique auto show, a petting zoo, a moon bounce and – the most fun – Jack Russell Terrier Races!

One note about Grand Prix day. While it’s not specified in the program, many people will be in “afternoon attire.” Fancy dresses and large hats are not out of place. So if you’ve got it, wear it.

If you discover that you enjoy watching the horses jump around while you sip a cold one, Great Meadow is bringing back its Twilight Jumper Series this year. Held June 27, July 18 and August 29, all Fridays, this event in The Plains brings out both local and professional talent for a Friday evening with dancing and wine tasting. Great Meadow encourages you to pack a tailgate, but note that nearly every event at Great Meadow is to be free of glass bottles, lest one injure a horse.

Great Meadow’s Twilight Polo Series has also begun, continuing on Saturday nights through September. There is dancing as well as polo, and – with the Aspen Dale Winery at the Barn on hand – everyone will have a great time. Check the Great Meadow website for this year’s themes: from Military Appreciation Night to Pirate Night.

Make sure you pop back to Great Meadow for the rest of their events on the card for the summer, including a Fourth of July celebration and, later that month, the WEG selection trials. (Ever want to see someone play high jump on a horse without a saddle? Now’s your chance.) The Virginia Scottish Games are at the end of August, the Wine Festival is in September and the International Gold Cup Steeplechase in October.

I know I’ve encouraged tailgating, but you don’t always want to do the prep before the weekend. So, my other best suggestion is to enjoy some local food. (And wine. Always wine. Especially Virginia wine.) Breaux Vineyards in Purcellville will hold its 17th annual Cajun Festival and Crawfish Boil on June 14, with live music and lots of treats. Then Morven Park in Leesburg will host a NOVA Summer Brewfest on June 21-22, so you can do one weekend of wine and another of beer, both with live music and vendors.

There are other notable wine tours in the area – a quick Google search will bring up plenty. If you go to (www.virginiawine.org), there is a list by date of events for the entire summer. With at least one, and often many, every weekend, you can cherry-pick (grape-pick?) your own tour.

Upperville’s classic eating stops include Hunter’s Head Tavern – where your dog can dine on the patio, incidentally – and the Blackthorne Inn, with its beautiful bar. Another of my personal favorites is The French Hound in Middleburg, where the menu changes in accordance with the “whims of the chef.”
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Return to Rehoboth Beach

May 22, 2014

Soaked in history and packed with energy, the small, seaside city of Rehoboth Beach, Del., has long been a Washington favorite for summer weekends. Just over one square mile, this coastal community is filled with charming shopping (tax free), outdoor activities, ample accommodations and perhaps one of the best dining scenes in the country for its size.

Thanks to the state’s attractive tax structure, a lot of Rehoboth’s recent growth has been fueled by retirees from D.C., Philadelphia and Wilmington, and even from New Jersey and New York. These Boomers are not ready to be idle – many are starting businesses and nonprofits to serve community needs.

As soon as you arrive, you will see that there is more to Rehoboth than Funland, the boardwalk, the famous pizza joints (we can’t choose), Thrashers fries and Dolle’s salt water taffy. And while the beach, where the Atlantic Ocean delivers wave after wave, is the main event, here is a quick guide for your next visit…

Eat

Known as the Culinary Coast, southern Delaware is quickly gaining attention for the restaurants in Rehoboth and neighboring Lewes Beach. From upscale dining to the craft brewpubs, there is something for everyone and much to be enjoyed. In addition to the popular Eating Rehoboth, a three-hour walking and tasting tour, the town’s 9th Annual Restaurant Week is June 1-6.

Proof that these two events are not enough to satisfy the truly foodie town, a friendly chef “throwdown” will take place at the Rehoboth Convention Center on June 12 during the Top Chef of the Culinary Coast competition. Chefs from a number of the area’s best restaurants will be competing for the title, including Bramble and Brine, Nage, Salt Air and Touch of Italy, all recently named to the “Eight Hottest Restaurants in Rehoboth Beach” list by Zagat. The remaining four were a(MUSE.), Cultured Pearl, Eden and Henlopen City Oyster House.

New restaurants on the block include Bramble and Brine, which opened in October to rave reviews and multiple awards. The popular Fins Ale House and Raw Bar opened a second location on Coastal Highway. James Beard-nominated chef-owner Hari Cameron serves up artistic dishes at his restaurant a(MUSE.), which offers several tasting menus.

Bistro and wine bar Nage turns 10 over Memorial Day weekend. Extending the restaurant’s tradition of bringing in new and upcoming chefs, a new chef and sous chef will be joining the Nage team, headed by owner Josh Grapski. “We’ve continued to grow every year and continue to get better and better,” says Grapski. “It’s a fun, steady project.”

Also on Grapski’s plate is Root Gourmet, a takeout deli next door to Nage, and Big Chill Surf Cantina, a Southern California-inspired beach bar on Coastal Highway. “I can’t think of another 10,000-person population that has as much culinary ability and talent as what’s going on in Rehoboth and Lewes,” Grapski notes proudly.

A long-time favorite is the Blue Moon Restaurant on Baltimore Avenue. It is part of Rehoboth’s vibrant and influential gay community, which has ties to D.C. as well. Another favorite, on Coastal Highway, is Bin 66, known for its great wine selection and popular tastings every Friday and Saturday evening.

More information on Rehoboth’s dining scene can be found at RehobothFoodie.com

Get Active

Along the mile-long stretch of beach are a number of watersport activities, including stand-up paddle boarding (SUP), wind surfing and kayaking. Learn to surf with lessons from Liquid Surf Shop. DelMarVa Board Sport Adventures offers rentals of stand-up paddle boards, kayaks and windsurfing gear, as well as lessons and SUP fitness and yoga classes.

Spend a few hours like a local surf fishing at popular spots such as Tower Road, 3R’s Road, the area just north of Indian River Inlet, Cape Henlopen Point, Haven Road and the Navy Jetty area within Cape Henlopen State Park.

Miles of trails for both hiking and biking link Rehoboth to neighboring beaches and parks. The newly completed Gordon’s Pond Trail links Cape Henlopen State Park to Gordon’s Pond and connects with the existing Junction and Breakwater Trail.

This year marks the 50th anniversary of both Cape Henlopen State Park and the Cape May-Lewes Ferry, which travels 17 miles on an 85-minute cruise between New Jersey and Delaware. Passing historic lighthouses and harbors, the ferry connects points such as Wildwood, Stone Harbor, Avalon, Ocean City and the rest of the Jersey Shore with Rehoboth and other southern Delaware beaches.
The Cape Water Taxi Tours provide residents and visitors of Lewes, Rehoboth, Dewey and Long Neck (Millsboro) a hassle- and traffic-free way to travel up and down the coast and within the inland waterways. Different types of tours, from taxi services to historic tours, are available. The tours are also picnic- and alcohol-friendly.

Stay

From boardwalk hotels to charming bed-and-breakfasts – not to mention rentals by the week – there are many options to stay over in Rehoboth.

New hotels to the area include The Dogfish Inn, located in the previous Vesuvio Motel overlooking the harbor in downtown Lewes. Dogfish Head Brewery owners Sam and Mariah Calagione opened the inn next to their popular brewpub.

The Bellmoor Inn and Spa seaside resort features quaint cottage décor with full-service day spa amenities. At Melissa’s is the only completely gluten-free B&B in Rehoboth Beach.
The new oceanfront saltwater pool and Sandcrab beach bar at the Atlantic Sands Hotel and Conference Center both overlook the boardwalk. In addition, the property’s Atlantic Boardwalk Grille is introducing new menus.

Upcoming in the Country; May 2014

May 12, 2014

Middleburg

Home Farm Store – Friday night tastings featuring wine, ciders and beer, along with a showcase of local artisan food and meat. Take home samples and recipe cards printed with ideas for your weekend table. 1 E. Every Friday from 5 p.m. – 7 p.m. 1 E. Washington Street. HomFarmStore.com

Live Music at Greenhill Winery and
Vineyards – Live music featuring Lance Trussell, a classical guitarist, composer and teacher based in Frederick County, Md. Trussell performs in a wide variety of styles, including Spanish classical, jazz, folk, celtic, bossa nova and pop from the 1950s and 60s. Saturday, May 17, 5-7 p.m. Visit GreenHillVineyards.com/events for the complete schedule.

Loudon County

Notaviva Vineyards Wine Murder Mystery Dinner Theater – Stage Coach Theatre Company’s production of “The Comic Book Murders,” in which a group of offbeat superheroes commemorate their victory against the villainous army of the Narlagons with a special dinner. Tickets include a catered buffet meal from Roaming Rotisserie and a dessert bar. May 9 and 10, 7-10 p.m. 13724 Sagle Rd., Purcellville. Call 540-668-6756 or visit
NotavivaVineyards.com.

Science Saturdays at the Smithsonian National Air and Space Museum – Immersions in science, technology, engineering and math (STEM) concepts at the Steven F. Udvar-Hazy Center, with hands-on activities and demonstrations related to aviation and space exploration. Science Saturday is the second Saturday of each month (May 10), 10 a.m.-3 p.m. 14390 Air and Space Museum Pkwy., Chantilly. For details, visit nasm.si.edu/udvarhazy.
Doukenie Winery’s Bistro Nights – Every Friday night through Sept. 26: live music, authentic Italian or Greek food and a glass or bottle of Doukenie wine. Rain or shine, 6-9 p.m. Doukenie Winery, 14727 Mountain Rd., Purcellville. For details, visit DoukenieWinery.com.

Glenfiddich Farm Cooking Class- Cooking classes by renowned cookbook author and food writer Olwen Woodier in her large modernized kitchen on a 1840s farm just outside Leesburg. The two-hour class includes demonstrations from a demo-mirrored island with an eight-burner Wolf cooktop, hands-on participation and a four-course meal. May 17, 10:30 a.m.-2 p.m. 17642 Canby Rd., Leesburg. For details, visit GlenFarmCookery.com.

Charlottesville

Hatton Ferry – Every Saturday and Sunday until Oct. 26: rides on the Hatton Ferry, a historic ferry across the James River and the only poled ferry still operating in the U.S. The Hatton Ferry operates free of charge (donations are appreciated). Under ideal conditions, a round-trip crossing takes about 30-45 minutes. 10120 Hatton Ferry Rd., Scottsville. For details, visit TheHattonFerry.org.

Crozet Arts & Crafts Festival 2014 –
Entertainment, wine tasting and more than 100 artists are featured at the festival, on Saturday and Sunday, May 10-11, rain or shine. Claudius Crozet Park, 1075 Park Rd., Crozet.

Yappy Hours at Keswick Vineyards – At the vineyard on Dog Day Sundays: your furry friend and visitors from local animal shelters. A donation to the visiting shelter is made for every bottle of wine purchased. Sundays through Nov. 2, noon-3 p.m. 1575 Keswick Winery Drive, Keswick. For details, visit KeswickVineyards.com.

King Family Vineyards Annual Spring Barbeque – BBQ and wine pairings on Sunday, May 18. The Barbeque Exchange will be serving noon-5 p.m. and the Tasting Room and patios will stay open until 7 p.m. Tickets are $16. 6550 Roseland Farm Lane, Crozet.

Pharsalia Folk Life Festival – Costumed interpreters performing 200-year-old daily tasks, vendors selling period products, live music, food and drink and guided tours of Pharsalia, an antebellum plantation home listed on the National Register of Historic Places and the Virginia Landmarks Register. Pharsalia is celebrating its 200th anniversary this year. Saturday and Sunday, May 17-18, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. 2333 Pharsalia Road, Tyro. For details, visit pharsaliaevents.com.

Artisanal Foods and Products Await in Virginia

May 9, 2014

With its sprawling countryside and 46,000 farms, Virginia is home to dozens of shops filled with local and organic products. These country stores are tucked away on the quaint main streets of small-town Virginia, offering fresh, homegrown foods to those in the know. Here are a few shops in Northern Virginia offering artisanal cheeses, meats and sweets:

Back Creek Farms has been making pure maple syrup in Monterey since 1838. The family-owned farm got its name from its traditional production process of collecting sugar water from the trees that line the surrounding creeks. Buckets and open pans are used to make syrup, along with modern pumps. Back Creek’s products are sold throughout Virginia at stores such as the Little House Green Grocery in Richmond and the Monticello Gift Shop and Virginia Made Shop in the Shenandoah Valley.

Considered a go-to in Middleburg, The Home Farm Store is Ayrshire Farm’s butcher shop and grocery store, selling a variety of products made by Virginia artisans and others. Among the store’s many weekend events are “Sips and Snacks” on Friday evenings and cooking demonstrations on Saturday afternoons.

Down the road, The Whole Ox is an artisanal butcher located in The Plains. Derek and Amanda Luhowiak opened the shop, housed in an old trading depot, in 2011. Prior to opening The Whole Ox, the couple owned and operated Local 647, a food truck that traveled all over Northern Virginia. The truck was famous for its half-pound grass-fed burger, featured on the Today Show.

Today, The Whole Ox sells ethically produced products, the majority of which are sourced from Virginia. The shop’s mulberry vinegar comes from Lindera Farms in Linden. Ol’ Red Eye hot sauce is made from smoked habanero peppers aged in oak barrels from Marshall.

One of the all-homemade sausages is the “Sammy Davis,” made with juniper, coriander, bay leaf and pork.

Heading southwest, The Market at Grelen in Somerset boasts a full community calendar, complete with lunch series, dinner and concert combos and workshops. Grelen has a seasonal farm market, garden shop and café offering a variety of treats made from local ingredients. Favorites include molasses cookies, Grelen ice cream and sorbet made with Grelen fruit and local cream and local cheeses from Caromont Farm in Esmont.

Just outside of Charlottesville in Free Union, farmers (and couple) Erica Hellen and Joel Slezak started Free Union Grass Farm on Slezak’s family land in 2010. According to their farming philosophy, “Free Union Grass Farm is a holistic livestock operation that utilizes modern techniques as well as pre-industrial, timeless ecological principles to produce nourishing food for our community.” The farm’s products are sold mainly in Charlottesville and Richmond, but there are plans to expand. “Having a presence in D.C. is definitely a goal for the near future,” Slezak said.

Out west, Polyface Farms is another pasture-based meat and dairy producer in Swoope. Since 1961, this multi-generational business has provided top-quality non-industrial foods, including beef, pork, poultry, and rabbits. The farm’s objective is to heal unethical practices and thoughts surrounding food. Their products can be found in a number of shops across the state, including Rebecca’s Natural Foods in Charlottesville, Ellwood Thompson’s in Richmond, Off the Vine in Williamsburg and The Organic Butcher in McLean. As you venture out this spring, enjoy the artisanal foods found in our own bountiful “backyard.” [gallery ids="101694,143938,143936,143932" nav="thumbs"]