In Country

Corrie Dyke • April 23, 2014

An up and coming wine destination unlike any other, Virginia’s deep wine history dates back to Jamestown and the settlers who each tended 10 vines. Vintner Thomas Jefferson made it his life mission to produce a successful vineyard and their experimental harvesting now yields the region’s award-winning wines. Last October, the seventh edition of The World Atlas of Wine by Jancis Robinson and Hugh Johnson featured Virginia wines for the first time. Time Magazine’s article on the book even named Virginia the “newest chapter in American wine history” calling Boxwood Estate’s merlot blends “wines that California would have to respect”. With more than 230 wineries spanning the Commonwealth, there is no better way to take in the vino, scenery and historic sites than through the many trails and tours.

The array of routes allow for a fun, educational day experiencing multiple wineries with two or 20 people. Meet the winemakers, visit a part of the countryside you otherwise wouldn’t and most importantly grow in your knowledge of Virginia wines. Here are a number of trails and tours to check out this season, visit VirginiawWine.org for a state-wide list. Cheers!

The Great Skedaddle: Wine on 29
Pearmund Cellars, Vint Hill Craft Winery and Winery at Bull Run make up this wine trail formed along Route 29, the path of The Great Skedaddle, a term used to describe the unorganized retreat of Union troops back to Washington after their unexpected defeat at the first battle of Bull Run in 1861.

The Blue Ride Wine Way
The Blue Ridge Wine Way is recognized as Virginia’s premier wine region featuring five counties in the Northern Virginia region. Wineries include; Gray Ghost Vineyards, LaGrange Winery, Mediterranean Winery, Molon Lave, Narmada Winery, Oasis Winery, Pearmund Cellars, Rappahannock Cellars and Unicorn Winery. This trail is just under an hour drive from D.C. BlueRidgeWineWay.com

Northern Neck/Chesapeake Bay Trail
The Chesapeake Bay Wine Trail features nine wineries which include; Oak Crest Winery, Ingleside Vineyards, Belle Mount Vineyards, General’s Ridge Vineyard, Vault Field Vineyards, Athena Vineyard and Winery, Jacey Vineyards, Good Luck Cellars and The Dog and Oyster. April 26 is the 2nd Annual Spring Oyster Crawl on the Wine Trail. Visit ChesapeakeBayWineTrail.com for more information.

Loudoun County Wine Trail
The wine trail of Loudoun Country is so large it is broken into five clusters; Loudoun Heights, Waterford, Potomac, Mosby, Harmony and Snickers Gap. Find the complete list of more than 30 wineries at VisitLoudoun.org and look for the developing LoudounWineTrail.com

211 Scenic Vino Trail
The Vino Trail on Route 211 leads to Shenandoah National Park and runs beside the quaint village of Little Washington. Along the way sit five wineries; Unicorn, Magnolia, Gray Ghost, Narmada, Gadino, Little Washington and Quievremont. 211winetrail.com

Monticello Wine Trail
The wineries on the Monticello Wine Trail were inspired by Thomas Jefferson’s vision of winemaking and claim the birthplace of American wine. This Charlottesville trail holds 30 wineries. MonticelloWineTrail.org

Area Services and Guided Tour Companies

Divine Wine Tours of Virginia;
Fairfax Va.

855-384-6382

divinewineva.com

Dominion Wine Tour;
Catharpin, Va.

571-330-5406

dominionwinetours.com

Point to Point Limousines;
Catharpin, Va.

703-771-8100

PointToPointLimo.com

Reston Limousines;
Reston Va.

703-478-0500

restonlimo.com

Chariots for Hire;
Sterling, Va.

703-639-4957
chariotsforhire.reachlocal.com

Boomerang Tours; Washington
D.C.

202-217-2055

RideTheBoomerang.com

Fairfax Limo Wine Tours; Sterling, Va.

703-229-5057

Fairfax-limo.com

Leonard Shapiro •

was a perfectly precious afternoon in the country for the Middleburg Spring races on April 19–mostly blue skies, mild temperatures and some fiercely competitive steeplechase events at glorious Glenwood Park.

On the day before Easter, some in the crowd were already previewing big, beautiful bonnets, and the people-watching, as usual, was just as much fun as trying to pick the winning horse and jockey. A perfectly legal bookmaker was on the grounds with a chalkboard and a fistful of dollars to handle any wagering.
There was some fine dining all around as well at a wide variety of tailgates. Best in show for the day according to the judges was a magnificent and all home-cooked buffet produced by Middleburg’s Robin and Gordie Keys.

In the featured $50,000 Temple Gwathmey, Decoy Daddy prevailed with jockey Carol-Ann Sloan in the irons. The horse is owned by Irvin S. Naylor and trained by Cyril Murphy. The Middleburg Hunt Cup went to Cornhusker in a thrilling finish. He was ridden by Kieran Norris, trained by Alicia Murphy and owned by Armata Stables.
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Donna Evers • April 11, 2014

When Thomas Jefferson, America’s best known wine connoisseur, was Ambassador to France after the American Revolution he traveled extensively in France, Germany and Italy, visiting the best vineyards he could find and establishing relationships with vintners so that he could import wine from them when he returned to America. He brought many good wines to Monticello and some historians believe that he may have had the finest wine collection ever to hit the cellars of the White House.

This fascination with wine led Jefferson to spend a lot of time and money trying to grow European vinifera vines at Monticello, but the delicate ungrafted vines were not suited to the climate and fell victim to the various forms of fungus that plague Virginia growers even to this day. His interest in wine grapes was shared by many people in central Virginia in the early 1800’s. Dr. Daniel N. Norton of Richmond, spent years working with wild vine seedlings and ultimately developed a wine grape that was named after him around 1830. The new dark red wine called Norton became a popular in Virginia and the vines were planted as far west as Missouri where the wine quickly became a great favorite. Scientists speculate that Norton is a combination of native wild vines and perhaps one or more of the many vinifera vines that were planted here and abandoned when they wouldn’t produce grapes.

Everything went well for the Norton grape in both Virginia and Missouri until Prohibition. Federal agents zealously destroyed hundreds of acres of wine grape vineyards, but apparently not all of them, because when Prohibition ended, there were still Norton grapes growing in Missouri, and it quickly regained its popularity there. The vine was re-introduced to Virginia in the late 1980’s by a Missourian, Dennis Horton, who planted a vineyard near Charlottesville. Today, Horton Vineyards in the Charlottesville area and Chrysalis Vineyards near Middleburg are the biggest growers of Norton in the state.

If you are curious to taste Norton, it’s easy to do, since it is vinted in many of wineries within an hour of the beltway. The long list of flavors that are variously associated with the dark, luscious red wine include plum, chocolate, cherry, elderberry, cedar, smoke, tobacco and raspberry. It is the darkest red wine in production today and if the list of flavors and aromas is not enticing enough, wine drinkers who are conscious of red wine’s health benefits should know that Norton has twice as much of the anti-oxidant reservatrol as the “darling” vine of Europe and Napa, Cabernet Sauvignon. And remember, it is the only fine wine grape that is native to America. You can enjoy it on a foray to wineries and restaurants in Virginia wine country, and it pairs especially well with roast beef, venison and roast lamb. Bon Appetit!

Donna Evers, devers@eversco.com, is the owner and broker of Evers & Co. Real Estate, the largest woman-owned and run real estate company in the Washington Metro area, a devoted student of Washington area history, and the proprietor of Twin Oaks Tavern Winery, where you can visit and enjoy a glass of Norton!

Wally Greeves •

My arrivals to Scotland’s heralded eighteen hole tracts located within the towns of Carnoustie and St. Andrews could not have been more different. When I pulled into the diagonally striped, beach-adjacent parking lot of Carnoustie Golf Links, I could have been arriving at Cape Henlopen State Park in Delaware. The simplicity of the clubhouse serving the Burnside, Buddon, and the Championship Links course that made Sergio cry and Padraig fly reminded me of a friendly ranger station somewhere in the Midwest. Post-play building renovations I could suggest might include signs saying things about entrants abandoning hope or devils appearing in sheep’s clothing.

I played the tamer Burnside course before tackling the beast, and I truly enjoyed the round. Burnside was the course Ben Hogan qualified on in 1953, before winning the Open on the Championship Links. The two Scot members I was paired with were a retired police officer and civil servant, and they played the golf ambassador roles consummately, not withstanding my barrage of questions. The biggest problem for me on these courses was the ever-present, daunting, howling, massive amount of wind. Teeing off on the 460 yard #4 hole “South America” maybe felt like sticking your head out the window of a moving car and trying to spit a watermelon seed on to the hood. One of the ambassadors explained that in order to survive these conditions on the course you have to hit the ball below the wind and that the harder ground will allow low trajectory shots like this to travel a long way. I felt like a pitcher might feel who throws only fastballs being exposed to major league hitters for the first time and realizing he has to learn some junk to survive. The necessity of shaping shots to overcome the elements, probably the very heart of the game of golf, really rooted itself in me on this trip.

One thing I like to tell other golfers to do when golf balls start to go sideways (and never do myself) is to put away the scorecard and just enjoy the day. I actually did this on the Championship Course, not even cheating by keeping the score in my head. It made the par on “Hogan’s Alley” #6 hole a pleasant surprise, the famous spectacle bunkers on #14 more fun to examine, and allowed me to get out of myself enough to imagine what it would have been like to be Van De Velde and blow the three shot lead on the 18th hole in the 1999 Open.

The arrival at St. Andrews was more like arriving at a sports arena, with the prices of the famous Old Course golf shirts going down the further you got from stadium row. Since it is also home to the third oldest English-speaking university in the world, dating back to the 1400s, the American feel to it might be like Charlottesville. Throw a bit of Duke University into the mix, due to the presence of St. Andrews Cathedral, and presto: you have the town that introduced the game of golf to the world over 600 years ago.

Without planning a year in advance, winning a last-minute ballot entry, or being part of a very expensive full service golf tour package, the only way to get a tee time on the Old Course is to walk on the morning you wish to play and ask the starter. It might seem risky but if you are alone and show up early the odds are that the starter will be able to fit you in. How we, as a country, seem to have made our best golf courses aloof, I view as somewhat depressing, when compared to the Scottish community’s pride in making its golf courses accessible to golfers of almost all levels. One of the best comments I heard on this trip came from one of the golf ambassadors I played with at Carnoustie when he pointed to a woman strolling nearby on the course and said, “Wally, that woman walking her dog over there. She may not play golf, but this is her course, too.”

I spent the time waiting to tee off on the Old Course listening to priceless stories from famed Starter, Rod Sturrock. Part of his humble duties as gatekeeper to the most famous golf course in the world include standing quietly behind golfers teeing off, as a significant number of golfers that have traveled from far and wide to this golf mecca get wobbly kneed and pass out on the tee box. Laughing out loud at the expense of other golfer’s exploits at the famous links course was sure to have been what caused me to duff my tee shot, but I still managed to bogey the first hole.

My caddie at St. Andrews, Neil Crate, was the only caddie I have ever had that threatened me for potentially failing to execute golf shots. His threats and humor coerced me out of the “Bobby Jones” bunker on 13 in one shot, guided me away from “Hell” on the 14th hole, delivered me past the “Valley of Sin” below the 18th green, and on to hole out for my best round of the trip.

The levity with which I approached the round pegged me as the target for the exploding golf ball routine the caddies occasionally trot out. I even met Oliver Horovitz, author of “An American Caddie at St. Andrews,” an amusing coming of age memoir, written by a Harvard student about “Growing up, Girls, and Looping the Old Course”.

While not scheduled to play them, I managed to get in rounds at the Jubilee and Castle Courses at St. Andrews also. They were picturesque, and the time spent there worthwhile. Since this was my first trip to Ireland and Scotland and was a family adventure, golf was not the only agenda, but it could have been. I ogled castles, kissed the Blarney Stone, black-taxied through Belfast and bought sweaters in Edinburgh, but destinations like Old Head, Royal Dornach, and Ballybunion will ensure my return to the area of the world that spawned the game of golf.

Wandergolf will be a frequently appearing golf column in The Georgetowner that will be reporting on the golf interests of Washingtonians. If you have suggestions for columns or comments, please email them to wally@wandergolf.com [gallery ids="101431,154580,154588,154585" nav="thumbs"]

Nicole Cusick • February 27, 2014

What could be more “New Year,
new you” than a spa visit? It’s
time to plan your getaway for a
long weekend, Valentine’s Day,
or just a simple reward for surviving the polar
vortex. Venture out of Washington and take some
time to enjoy life outside of the city and inside
of a cozy spa.

Family Friendly
Hershey, Pa., is known for being rich in
farmland and in chocolate. It calls itself “the
sweetest place on earth.” The Spa at Hotel
Hershey indulges the body with their specialty
coca massages, chocolate sugar scrubs and many
other candy inspired treatments. The Spa offers
different customized treatments for women, men
and teens. Check out their complete menu,
www.chocolatespa.com/treatments/. While you
are in Pennsylvania with the kids visit the spa
at Nemacolin Woodlands resort in Farmington.
They offer a variety of kid-friendly services in
the Kidz Spa great for ages 5-15. There are lots
of other treatments available for parents as well,
www.nemacolin.com/spa/.

Wine & Body in Virginia
The mind and body will become completely
relaxed with The Keswick Reserve at the
Keswick Club Spa. After a red wine greeting,
grape seed oil massage, shiraz body scrub and
pinot noir facial you will see why Keswick Hall
has so much to offer. To book appointments, visit,
www.keswick.com/spa_body_treatments.aspx .

The Wonders of Water
The luxurious Aqua Thermal Suite at the
Homestead of Omni Resorts in Hot Springs,
Va., takes advantage of the natural powers of
water. They offer several hot and cold hydro
experiences to relax and refresh. Find out
about their Thermal Heated Lounges and The
Chill treatments and other ways to relax here,
www.thehomestead.com/aqua_thermal_suite.
The spa at The Greenbrier also specializes in
Hydrotherapy. At the West Virginia destination
indulge in their specialties like the Mineral
Mountain Bath. Check out their other spa
options at www.greenbrier.com/Spa/Treatments/
Hydrotheraphy.aspx .

Spa Package Deals
While many other spas offer spa bundles,
Spa Minérale at the Landowne Resort is an
ideal getaway for those who enjoy group getaways.
They offer several spa package deals for
weekends with a significant other, girlfriends
or golfing partners. For those who like to make
their travel plans simple these package deals
might save some money and help plan the perfect
weekend in just minutes. Check out their
options here, www.lansdowneresort.com/vacations/
virginia-spa-packages.

Me-Time in Maryland
Enjoy the gifts of the Chesapeake Bay at
the Sago Spa and Salon at the Hyatt Regency
Chesapeake Bay. The spa offers several different
treatments that feature sago, a strong underwater
grass found in the Chesapeake Bay, which
provides nourishment to the bay and your body.
Look at the other sago and salon treatments here,
chesapeakebay.hyatt.com/hyatt/pure/spas/about/
features.jsp. Linden Spa at The Inn at Perry
Cabin also makes use of Maryland’s natural treasures
with their linden trees that grow right on
the premises. The Linden Intensive is a natural
massage that could involve one therapist for a
longer massage experience, or two therapists for
a shorter massage. They have a comprehensive
list of massages on their treatment menu that
includes deep tissue, hot stone and herbal to
name a few. www.perrycabin.com/web/omic/
linden_spa.jsp. [gallery ids="101602,147116,147114" nav="thumbs"]

Ari Post • January 17, 2014

s I write this column, Hurricane Sandy approaches our coast from the Atlantic. The eaves and branches outside my window, now a patchwork of green-flecked rust and yellows mopped in a thick gray mist, will soon be divested of its foliage by torrential winds. On the television, New Jersey Governor Chris Christie reports that the Jersey coastline is already flooding, and the storm is still 200 miles from shore. Things are looking grim on the Northeast coast. It’s hard to imagine planning any outdoor activities right now.
However, in an odd twist of perspective, hur- ricanes have their important place in the complex ecology of coastal wetlands, and all the natural wildlife they inhabit. Healthy marshes consist of dense grasses and other wetland vegetation interspersed with small ponds, lakes, and bay- ous. If unchecked, however, marsh vegetation can choke out open-water areas over time. This natural process eventually forms a “closed marsh,” which holds little value for waterfowl and other wildlife.

Hurricanes can set back the incursion of closed marshes by breaking up dense stands of vegetation and scouring new ponds and lakes. Additionally, accompanying storm surges can push salt water inland; the lengthy exposure to salt water kills salt-intolerant vegetation, creating more open-water areas. These new ponds and lakes created by hurricanes are prime habitat waterfowl, as well as prime duck foods like wild celery, which flourish in the shallow, open water.

Why all the talk about ducks? Because, come rain or come shine, the annual Waterfowl Festival is coming to Easton Md., Nov. 9 through 11. Sportsmen and art connoisseurs alike should find interest at this regional tradition, founded by a group of ambitious enthusiasts who envi- sioned an event that would share with visitors the unique Eastern Shore heritage that they treasured. The festival also helps to preserve the ecosystem, raising funds to protect the wildlife and habitats that are integral to the area’s way of life. This event captures the true romance and excitement of the area’s wild birds and the hunting sport they create.

From decoy exchanges to art exhibits, and from a children’s fishing derby to wildlife photography classes, as long as you are interested in the great outdoors, Easton’s Waterfowl Festival has something for you.

Art and Photography

The festival’s photography exhibit, set up in Easton Middle School, will feature a wide array of striking images captured by some of the nation’s foremost nature photographers. Every photograph has a story to tell, and the artists are eager to share them. These are the shots that demonstrate why photography is an art in itself. The pieces are affordable and often may be purchased framed or unframed. Many photographers also offer specialty items featuring their images. The gallery opens at 9 a.m. on Saturday for the “Best in Show” Award at 9:30 a.m. Vote for your own favorite photo with the People’s Choice Award, presented Sunday at 11 a.m.

One of the original Waterfowl Festival gal- leries, the Art at the Armory Painting Gallery presents an array of exceptional artists offer- ing a variety of work encompassing a wide range of subject matter and style. In addition to waterfowl, wildlife and sporting art, the artists present landscapes, florals and maritime scenes, both as original paintings and prints. Exhibitors welcome the opportunity to share their artistic talent with guests, both experienced collectors and those simply touched by one of the artists’ images.

While other galleries showcase the artwork, the festival’s Artists Gallery & Workshop put the artists in the spotlight. Visitors enjoy the rare opportunity to see artists at work, demonstrating the techniques and skill required to create the artwork so admired in its finished form. Working artisans are willing and eager to discuss their work and tricks of the trade. Demonstrationsthroughout the day make this exhibit a delight for many and an educational must for all aspiring artists and carvers.

At the Masters Gallery, a col- lection of exceptional 19th- and 20th-century sporting and wild- life paintings and sculptures by internationally acclaimed wildlife and nature artists will be on view. Outside of museum exhibits, it is rare to see a collection of works by such renowned masters gathered together and offered for sale.

At the Sculpture Pavilion, attendants have the opportunity to view a variety of sculptural forms ranging from exquisite miniatures to dramatic life size renditions of wildlife subjects. Created by art- ists from across the country, the sculptures are of bronze, steel, clay, stone and other expressive three- dimensional media. Sculptors enjoy interacting with visitors and look forward to the opportunity to discuss their work.

For those interested in wild- life preservation, the Waterfowl Chesapeake Pavilion is the home for the festival’s sister conser- vation organization, Waterfowl Chesapeake, Inc., during the festival weekend. Inside, guests will find more information about Waterfowl Chesapeake and its projects and ini- tiatives, as well as a presence by partner conser- vation organizations and green businesses, such as the Chesapeake Bay Foundation, the Eastern Shore Land Conservancy and the Maryland Environmental Service.

Sporting and Hunting

A must for the sophisticated sportsman, the new Sporting Arms Exhibit makes its debut in 2012. This exhibit brings the sporting heritage of the Eastern Shore to downtown Easton. While the exhibit will focus mostly on antique and contemporary guns, displays will also showcase the development of the hunting culture of the Chesapeake Bay region with decoys, art and other memorabilia.

Haggling is encouraged at the Buy, Sell, Swap traders’ bazaar, with a staggering array of decoys, hunting and sporting memorabilia, sport- ing books and more. Prices range from pocket change to the thousands of dollars. Whether a dedicated collector, first time buyer or browser, most any visitor will find something of interest.
On the subject of “something of interest,” the Waterfowl Festival is also home to an annual Calling Contest. Each November, proud duck and goose callers, representing at least 16 states and Canada, make the journey to Easton for the coveted titles of master caller, where they perform their best calls in front of more than 600 spectators and listeners. Anyone, novice or master, is welcome to try their hand. Attendance at the preliminary rounds is free, and admission to the finals on Saturday evening is $10, or $5 with a Waterfowl Festival ticket.

One of the most popular festival events is the Retriever Demonstrations. Both new and returning visitors make it a point to head to the ponds to see the dogs each year. The Retriever Demonstrations are entertaining and hugely impressive, as these exceptionally skilled canines show off by leaping into the pond to fetch a thrown or hidden dummy. You don’t have to be a hunter to appreciate the intelligence demonstrated by the retrievers and the training skills of their handlers, who are members of the Talbot Retriever Club.

Another canine-crazed event is the Dock Dogs Competition, where the stands fill quickly to watch dog after dog race down a dock to splash into a pool of water. The competition is to see which dog can remain airborne the farthest or highest, depending on which event is being contended. Any and all breeds are eligible to participate. While registration for contenders is mainly done online in advance, there generally are a few spaces reserved for those wishing to enter their dogs on the day of the event.

There is all this and more at the Waterfowl Festival in Easton, Md,—and though the weather is rough now, it is sure to clear up by Nov. 9. So, brush up your duck calls, shape up your pups and get on out there. [gallery ids="101044,136322" nav="thumbs"]

Jordan Hellmuth •

Self-described as “the road less traveled,” Virginia’s Northern Neck is a premier destination for art and culture experiences outside all of the hustle and bustle of the District. Make a day or a weekend trip out of heading down to the Northern Neck to see what summer 2013 has to offer.

Summer Beach Bash at Ingleside Winery
Take a trip out to Oak Grove, Va., on June 22 for a summer kickoff. There will be live beach music in the courtyard, wine tasting and an optional dinner. You can reserve a dinner reservation or bring your own picnic to the party. Tickets are $20 in advance, $25 at the door (music only). Dinner costs $15 (advance reservations).
Ingleside Winery, 5872 Leedstown Road, Oak Grove, Va. 22443

Wine Tasting and Water Exploration at Cat Point Creek
Have a swimming time and taste some wine on June 29 at Cat Point Creek in Richmond County, Va. Paddle your way down the creek to take part in a wine tasting at Belle Mount Vineyards. Make a reservation by June 25 to wine, dine, and explore one of Northern Neck’s vital habitats. The cost of this waterside adventure is $40 per person with reservation only.
Northern Neck Land Conservancy, P.O. Box 125 Lancaster, Va. 22503 804-462-0979

Kilmarnock Volunteer Fire Department 77th Annual Carnival
Pick one or a few nights between July 25 and August 3 to join all the fun in Kilamarnock for this nine-day carnival extravaganza. Help support the Kilamarnock Volunteer Fire Department while taking part in old-fashioned games, riding carnival rides and eating great food. Admission to the carnival is free, but tickets are required for games and food.
Waverly Avenue, Kilmarnock, Va.

Irvington Crab Festival
Grab a hammer and get ready to start pickin’ the best on July 27 at the Second Annual Irvington Crab Festival. Groove to live music from Jumbo Lumb Daddy while enjoying all-you-can-eat steamed jumbo crabs, and listen to Backfin Boys while enjoying barbecue. Proceeds form the Irvington Crab Festival were benefit the Steamboat Era Museum. Tickets are $25 in advance and $30 at the door day of. Tickets for kids 12 and under are $5.
Steamboat Era Museum, 156 King Carter Drive, Irvington, Va. 22480

Music by the River at Belle Isle State Park
Bring your picnic blanket and jive your way to Rappahannock Crossing’s Belle Isle State Park to take in the nature and bluegrass musicians from the Northern Neck and the Middle Peninsula. It is a family-friendly setting, and it is encouraged and accepted to play games with family and kids during the concerts. The event will take place most Saturdays, starting July 13. Visit www.NortherNeck.org for a full list of dates and performances for Music By The River. Admission for all is free.
Belle Isle State Park 1562 Belle Isle Road, Lancaster, Va. 22503

Robert Devaney •

A mere two hours or so from the nation’s capital is one of the most historic areas of America: the Northern Neck of Virginia, the birthplace of George Washington, James Madison, James Monroe and Robert E. Lee. Because of its early influence on the new nation, this peninsula, which lies between the Potomac and Rappahannock Rivers, has been called “the Athens of the New World” and “the garden of Virginia.”

Rich with tobacco exports, the plantation-owning society was a powerful leader with river transport so easily at hand, but the peninsula was left behind by the railroad and the nation’s expansion. This pause in time may prove in the years ahead to be beneficial for the region, which is gaining newcomers via retiring baby-boomers, second homeowners, boaters and water enthusiasts.

While the English explorer, Captain John Smith, discovered the land where eight Algonquian tribes lived in 1608, you can drive south of Fredericksburg, Va., turn off Interstate 95 and get on the main road, King’s Highway, and take it easy. This is Route 3, which has also been called Historyland Highway.

From Montross down to Irvington and perhaps checking out some places on the southern banks of the Rappahannock on the Middle Neck, as it is called, this can be a trip not merely down memory’s lane but an active adventure, whether boating, sailing, fishing, biking, hiking, antiquing, eagle watching, dining, vineyard exploring or just going to the beach.

Smith saw the Northern Neck “as a place heaven and earth never agreed better to frame man’s habitation.” Today, more and more people seem to agree with him, too.

The George Washington Birthplace National Monument on Popes Creek with home and farm (not the original) evoke the 1700s. Stratford Hall, home of the Lee family, is a lively place. It holds various workshops during the summer, and in other buildings on the grounds it rents rooms and cabins.

There are many historic attractions to see, but save time for the Reedville Fishermen’s Museum, the Steamboat Era Museum in Irvington and historic Christ Church in Weems. Also consider the Mary Ball Washington Museum in Lancaster.

There are marinas and beaches for boating and water sports – it’s all about the water along this peninsula of eastern Virginia’s Tidewater that claims more than 1,000 miles of shoreline.

There is also Belle Isle State Park, Bush Mill Stream Natural Area Preserve, Caledon Natural Area, Dameron Marsh Natural area and Westmoreland State Park. Along with the Northern Neck Birding Trail, these wildlife spots offer a chance to see bald eagles soaring in the sky above.

Although the Northern Neck seems like a great getaway secret newly revealed—its tourist board’s slogan is “Experience the Road Less Traveled”—there was a time when Washingtonians flocked to its Colonial Beach on the tidal Potomac. There were even barges where gambling was legal, as the Potomac is controlled by Maryland all the way to the Virginia shoreline. It was the time when steamboats crisscrossed the Chesapeake Bay.

Today, local connections continue. The Rappahanock Oyster Company, located in Topping, has an outpost in DC at Union Market on Fifth Street, NE. Chef Troy Clayton, owner of Geranio Restaurant on King Street in Alexandria, along with business Thomy Moore, formerly with the Clyde’s Restaurant Group, opened the Landing Restaurant and Waterfront Bar at Coles Point Marina in May.

The Northern Neck is justly proud of its wineries: Athena Winery near Burgess and Wicomico Church, Belle Mount Vineyards in Warsaw, Dog and Oyster Vineyard in Irvington, General’s Ridge Vineyard in Hague, Good Luck Cellars in Kilmarnock, the Hague Winery in Hague, Ingleside Plantation Vineyards in Oak Grove, Jacey Vineyards in Wicomico Church, Oak Crest Winery in King George and Vault Field Vineyards near Kinsdale. The region has an official wine appellation: Northern Neck George Washington Birthplace American Viticultural Area.

You may be visiting friends or family or just camping, but sometimes a great resort is required. The Tides at Irvington is that place. It is a world-class inn with a golf course, spa and marina at the southern tip of the peninsula. It often uses the sailing teachers from Norton’s Yacht Sales in Deltaville across the Rappahannock on the Middle Neck. Owned by Carolyn Norton Schmalenberger and Ken Schmalenberger, Norton’s sells, fixes and charters boats—and can teach you how to sail. Also not to be missed in Irvington are bed-and-breakfast Hope and Glory and Nate’s Trick Dog Cafe.

Back up in Montross, sample Angelo’s pizza. For great sandwiches and pastries, try Art of Coffee in Montross or the Daily, which is down the road in Warsaw. Local farms offer produce to weekenders as well as to restaurants in the District and elsewhere. Virginia ham? You know it, and someone mentioned Whitley’s peanuts and Joe Lewis’s tomatoes, to name but a few of the top items to bring home besides the history lessons. [gallery ids="99244,104149,104152" nav="thumbs"]

Ari Post •

Nestled safely within the Allegheny Mountains
in the small community of White Sulphur
Springs, W.Va., lies one of this country’s most
venerable and longstanding luxury resorts. Since
1778, The Greenbrier has hosted distinguished
guests from around the world, setting the standard
for luxury accommodations in the United
States while managing to continually reinvent
itself for each new generation.

Once known by the Southern elite as the “Queen
of the Watering Places,” this sprawling estate in
the lush foothills of the Appalachian Mountainsis one of the premier getaways on the East Coast.
With the very best of comfort and accommodations,
spa treatments, leisure pursuits and worldclass
cuisine, The Greenbrier brings together all
the luxuries of the world’s finest resorts with the
distinctive history and character of the region.
In 1948, The Greenbrier teamed with another
national institution, Dorothy Draper & Company,
one of the country’s oldest and most established
interior design firms, named for its founder, a
doyenne of interior design from the 1920s to the
1960s. With Dorothy Draper, The Greenbrier
once again reinvented itself, reconstructing its
image at the forefront of haute design to meet the
postwar era head-on.

As the Greenbrier evolved, so did Dorothy
Draper & Co. The two institutions have been
working and growing together for over 60 years
to ensure that guests receive the very best.
Along the way, they have enjoyed a relationship
immersed in bold colors, elegant patterns,
and The Greenbrier’s signature green and white
stripes.

During the weekend of Jan. 24-26, guests will
have the opportunity to go behind the scenes of
The Greenbrier’s signature style with one of the
most highly regarded interior designers in the
country, Carleton Varney. Owner and president
of Dorothy Draper & Co., Varney is a protege of
Draper herself.

During this landmark event, the first-ever
Carleton Varney weekend, guests will have
exclusive access to Varney. The weekend schedule
includes seminars and talks, private walking
tours, book signings, afternoon tea and an exclusive
cocktail reception with “Mr. Color” himself.
With Varney on hand, guests will discover why
The Greenbrier’s look is truly one of a kind.
“We are thrilled to launch our new Discovery
Series at The Greenbrier, which will allow guests
to experience a different side of the resort while
learning from, and interacting with, our diverse
group of assembled experts in the fields of art
and antiques, design, food and wine and more,”
said Jeffrey Kmiec, president of The Greenbrier.
“It’s only fitting that we should inaugurate this
exciting new annual series of fascinating personalities
with a weekend with Carleton Varney, the
legendary interior designer and our good friend,
who has been with The Greenbrier for 50 years,
carrying on the extraordinary legacy of Dorothy
Draper.”

The Varney design philosophy stresses “the use
of bright colors and the rejection of all that is
impractical, uncomfortable and drab.” Here is a
listing of weekend highlights, sure to attract the
attention of any and all tastemakers, from those
looking for inspiration to redecorate their living
room to design-industry professionals.

Friday, January 24
6-7 p.m. – “Cocktails with Carleton” in the
State Suite

Carleton Varney invites guests to join him for
cocktails in The Greenbrier’s highly acclaimed
State Suite. The State Suite boasts one of the
most impressive entrance foyers found anywhere
on the estate, showcasing The Greenbrier’s traditional
black and white marble tile. Cocktails
and dry snacks will be served as guests mix and
mingle with Varney.

Saturday, January 25
10:30 a.m. – “The Decoration History of The
Greenbrier” in the Upper Lobby
The elegant interior and exterior décor of the
current hotel is traced from its 1913 beginnings
during this fireside chat hosted by Varney.
Though the hotel is well known for the dramatic
transformation of the 1940s, contributions to
the unique dimensions and ambience have been
witnessed each decade.

4 p.m. – Afternoon Tea with Carleton Varney
in the Main Dining Room
Live piano music and dancers will provide
entertainment as guests savor tea and delicacies.
Varney will be available to sign copies of his
books, CDs and DVD.

6-10 p.m. – “Happy Birthday Carleton
Varney!” Dinner Party

Guests will celebrate in style in the Main Dining
Room with Varney and his family members
and friends. The Greenbrier’s timeless classics
will be served beneath Dorothy Draper’s dazzling
custom-made chandeliers. Live music and
dancing complete the evening under the stately
columns and magnificent arched windows that
bring the ambiance of a dignified Southern mansion
to life.

Sunday, January 26
10:30-11:30 a.m. – Interior Tour with Carleton
Varney

Carleton Varney’s design philosophy continues
the tradition of Dorothy Draper, embracing the
imaginative use of vibrant colors, floral patterns
and bold contrasts. Varney and Brinsley
Matthews lead this Sunday morning tour through
the hotel, discussing all things Dorothy Draper.
For more information about the listed events,
call 877-684-5060. [gallery ids="101603,147109" nav="thumbs"]

Ari Post • January 6, 2014

Middleburg, Va., has a quiet beauty. Driving down the winding farm roads outside of Washington, low-lying fences of stacked stone separate the asphalt from the rolling country beyond. Estates sit on expansive greenways shared with rustic, whitewashed barns and grazing horses and cattle.

Perhaps this is why Middleburg continues to be one of the most thriving real estate markets in the region and a favorite area for Washingtonians seeking a country lifestyle. A drive of 30 minutes to two hours from the city, depending on traffic, sprawling country homes are waiting to be bought up around Middleburg.

Because this holiday season is the perfect time to gain a foothold in the countryside, the “12 Ways of In Country Living” highlights some of the most persuasive reasons to think of Middleburg and its environs as more than a weekend getaway.

1. Virginia Wines
There is a rampant misconception that East Coast wines are sweet, simple and unrefined. Bandied about is the truism that our land is unsuitable for growing proper wine grapes. But the truth is that we just got a late start. We are California 30 years ago. Today, more and more of our winemakers produce high-quality dry wines and the world is taking notice. Among the many vineyards of distinction around Middleburg, Chrysalis Winery, Boxwood Estate Winery, Barrel Oak Winery and Linden Vineyards are all worthy stops on any wine enthusiast’s Virginia itinerary.

2. The National Sporting Library and Museum
The colorful history and legendary stories of Loudoun’s long, rich equestrian history are enshrined in the National Sporting Library and Museum. On its shelves and in its galleries are more than 17,000 books dating back to the 16th century. The permanent art collection and special exhibitions chart the county’s sporting traditions back to their roots. NSL.org

3. The Ashby Inn and Restaurant
In the town of Paris, Va., one finds the Ashby Inn and Restaurant. This popular travel destination offers respite for jaded city dwellers seeking nature’s tranquility. A small inn with 10 double rooms, its charming 70-seat restaurant fills up every Saturday. For adventurous couples, nearby Sky Meadow State Park offers hiking and outdoor activities. Looking for less strenuous quality time? The antique shops, tack stores and restaurants of Middleburg are just next door. Another option is to combine exploration and relaxation with a trip to any number of the more than 20 wineries located within 30 minutes of the inn. AshbyInn.com

4. The Salamander Resort
Salamander Resort & Spa in Middleburg formally opened last August on 340 acres just outside Middleburg. The 168-room hotel is built to evoke a country estate, with a pale plaster facade, a stone courtyard, terraces and wrought-iron balconies. At Harrimans, the main restaurant, the menu includes locally harvested delicacies such as blue crab, Rappahannock River oysters, Angus beef from the Plains and Berkshire pork from Pennsylvania. Seasonal, local vegetables star on every plate, many grown in the kitchen gardens or at nearby farms. SalamanderResort.com

5. The Inn at Little Washington
No discussion of luxury dining and accommodations in Virginia is complete without admiration for the Inn at Little Washington, the life’s work of renowned restaurateur Patrick O’Connell. A self-taught chef and pioneer of the local, organic movement, O’Connell is often accused of having “perfect taste.” The Inn is one of the most highly decorated restaurants and hotels in the country – and just about the only one nationally lauded for offering both fine dining and sumptuous guest rooms. TheInnAtLittleWashington.com

6. The Kennedy Estate, from Atoka Properties
Wexford, the iconic John F. Kennedy family estate just west of Middleburg, is for sale for the first time in 22 years. The property was custom-designed by President and Mrs. Kennedy as a family retreat in 1963. Originally 39 acres, the property today comprises 166 acres. The main residence is a beautiful stucco home filled with light with views of the magnificent Blue Ridge Mountains. The Kennedys’ first visit to Wexford after completion was Oct. 25, 1963; they visited again on Nov. 10. Mrs. Kennedy sold the property a year later. Located in Orange County Hunt territory, the property offers riding trails, peaceful surroundings and dramatic views. The property still contains an underground bunker and areas used by Secret Service personnel. $10,995,000. AtokaProperties.com

7. Blue Spring Property, from Long & Foster
Blue Spring, designed by longtime Georgetown resident and architect Robbi Cooper, was created as a rural escape close to Georgetown to accommodate weddings, anniversaries and family holidays. It comprises three buildings around a small formal courtyard. Centrally located in Loudoun County and surrounded by hills, valleys and a stream, it’s a short drive from Washington. On 12.99 acres for $525,000 and on 23.99 acres for $720,000. (The separate approximately 11 acre lot is priced at $195,000.) LongAndFoster.com

8. Scawfell Farm, from Washington Fine Properties
This is a charming and elegant home with the original section dating to c. 1860 and the most recent renovation and additions to 2003. On 58 acres, the house has sweeping views down to the Rappahannock River and past fenced pastures to a cascading stream, pond and two-bedroom log cabin. The home has a beautiful pool, five bedrooms, five baths and two half-baths. There are also several barns, run-in sheds and paddocks with water. $2,195,000. WFP.com

9. Liberty Hall, from Thomas and Talbot Real Estate
Nestled just below Paris, Va., Liberty Hall, c. 1770, is a lovely stone and stucco farmhouse that sits at the foot of the Blue Ridge Mountains on 20 acres surrounded by protected lands. A dream property for lovers of antique homes, it offers captivating views of the countryside and features meticulous exterior renovations. County records indicate that the residence provided room and board for soldiers during the American Revolution. $1,950,000. Thomas-Talbot.com

10. Signal Mountain, from Sheridan MacMahon Realtors
Located in The Plains, Va., the 160-acre Signal Mountian estate sits on the western slope of Bull Run Mountain. Used by the Confederate cavalryman, Colonel Mosby, the estate is rich in beauty and history. The property is entered through an automated gate system built of stone walls and gate piers that support hand forged iron gates. The private drive passes a civil war era stone chimney/foundation, a well, and a spring house. On the property sits a stocked pond and a two-story carriage house. Several main home sites are available to build out the estate. $1,950,000. sheridanmacmahon.com

11. Creighton Farms and Jack Nicklaus Signature Golf Course
Conveniently located on Route 15 in the scenic Route 50 corridor, Creighton Farms is ideal for those who want the luxury and privacy of a first-rate community without an hour’s drive outside the city. Creighton Farms has a large handful of homesites with dramatic views of woods, meadows, mountain ranges and a spectacular golf course. The 900-acre landscape on which the course sits was designed by Jack Nicklaus who is currently building a home behind the ninth green. CreightonFarms.com

12. New Long & Foster Real Estate Office in Purcellville
The growth and development in Loudoun County continues to drive the real estate west of the District. Many already consider the area surrounding Purcellville, just north of Middleburg, to be an up-and-coming area with more modestly priced homes than its sister town. “This site in Purcellville was specifically chosen to give us centralized access to the community and a brand new state-of-the-art facility,” said Michele Stevens, managing broker of Long & Foster’s Middleburg office, who is leading the team at the new Purcellville sales office. [gallery ids="101587,147509,147506,147502,147494,147498" nav="thumbs"]