Talbot County’s Incomparable Charm


With Washington, D.C., in my rear-view, I drove east, watching as the terrain became sparser, yet more vibrant. Wide fields of gold were scattered with grain mills and dandelions. In the distance, a small plane flew low over the countryside.

Talbot County is located on the Delmarva Peninsula, on Maryland’s Eastern Shore, facing more than 600 miles of tidal shoreline. Cassandra Vanhooser, Talbot County’s director of tourism, is a woman who understands both the historical impact and the present-day attraction of the Chesapeake Bay, the nation’s largest estuary.

“The word ‘Chesapeake’ resonates around the world,” she said. Agriculture is an important component of the county’s identity, evidenced by the many farm fields, yet what struck me most were the countless boats outside people’s homes and businesses – symbols of pride and purpose that bind the communities of Talbot County together.

Since the late 17th century, the region has been inextricably linked to the water that surrounds it. That sentiment hasn’t changed, according to Vanhooser. “The maritime history is still alive and well,” she said.

At just under two hours from D.C., Talbot County’s culture exhibits a more relaxed, nostalgic filter than its bustling, politically charged counterpart. People craving the quiet allure of small, historic settings love traveling here, as do boatmen, artists and cyclists.

I stopped in Easton first. Established in 1710, the town remains the county seat, in addition to being a center for arts and culture. I went straight to the Academy Art Museum, where the exhibition “From Rubens to the Grand Tour,” on view through July 5, focuses on two paintings by 16th-century master Peter Paul Rubens. In addition, colorful portraits by California artist Ray Turner brighten the Museum’s Lederer Gallery.

Talbot County’s titillating natural backdrop is celebrated in festivals and events throughout the year. This summer, from July 11 to 19, the town will host the 11th annual Plein Air Festival. Named for the French term for ‘open air,’ the festival is the largest outdoor painting competition in the nation. In 2015, 58 of the world’s premier plein-air painters will compete for over $25,000. Another event is the Chesapeake Chamber Music Festival, celebrating its 30th anniversary this year, when it will take place from June 7 to 21.

From Easton, I traveled south to the quaint town of Oxford. Since colonial times, Oxford residents have wrapped their yards with signature white picket fences of varying designs. These fences are blanketed in rose bushes, lavender hydrangeas and other flora. My visit wasn’t complete until I sampled homemade ice cream from Scottish Highland Creamery. The owner, Victor Barlow, and his wife, Susan, use local ingredients, fresh milk and cream, along with Italian flavorings. In Oxford, I felt as if I’d jumped into a chalk drawing, a la Mary Poppins.

I crossed the Tred Avon River on the Oxford-Bellevue Ferry, America’s oldest privately owned ferry (1683), and drove to St. Michaels. The town is home to a cluster of lovely shops and restaurants, in addition to the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum. The museum, which sits on 18 waterfront acres, has 12 exhibit buildings, a working boat barn, the 1879 Hooper Strait Lighthouse and the world’s largest collection of traditional Bay boats. It’s a place designed to share the heritage of the region, from oystering to waterfowling and boatbuilding. This year marks the institution’s 50th anniversary; from May 22 to 24, the community will commemorate the history of the Chesapeake Bay with activities and events, including a party on May 23.

Before driving back to D.C., I had lunch at the town’s famous Crab Claw restaurant, overlooking St. Michaels Harbor. Also celebrating its 50th anniversary this year, the restaurant will have food and drinks specials, music, trivia and giveaways on May 22.

Still farther south is Tilghman Island, accessible via the Knapps Narrows Drawbridge, the nation’s oldest operating drawbridge. Tilghman Island is home to a working watermen’s community, with sport fishing, charter cruises and lighthouse tours available to visitors.

Whether you have a whole weekend or just a day, Talbot County is a premier escape, one that recalibrated my mind and relaxed my soul. It can do the same for you.

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