The Bad Boy of Good Food
• November 3, 2011

As the host of the Travel Channel’s “No Reservations,” Anthony Bourdain is the consummate dinner guest. An endearing enfant terrible, with a peripatetic wanderlust to rival Darwin and a puckish swagger that would make Bluebeard seem as docile as a clam, he slurps and sups the world’s melting pot in dogged pursuit of ethno-gastronomic delicacies. With cheerful I’ll eat-anything-you-put-in-front-of-me sangfroid, he lustily relishes fish brains, ant larvae, pig’s eyeballs, sparrow liqueur and the like on his adventures to far-flung locales. For his endless curiosity he has garnered a devoted audience, three Emmy nominations and has penned eight bestsellers, including the deliciously lurid “Kitchen Confidential.”

In his latest memoir, “Medium Raw: A Bloody Valentine to the World of Food and the People Who Cook,” due out next month, he threatens to yank the delicate scrim off noted chefs. Alice Waters, David Chang and “Top Chef” winners and losers will feel the sting of the provocateur’s barbs.

The gritty and endearing Bourdain will appear at the Warner Theatre on May 21 with cohort and chef/restaurateur Eric Ripert of D.C.’s Westend Bistro and New York’s famous Le Bernadin for an evening of tale-swapping and secrets of restaurant skullduggery.

In a recent interview, he spoke to me about his life, his new book and his upcoming appearance in Washington.

You take inordinate pleasure in poking the prevailing food fashionistas, uncovering the raw underbelly of restaurants, and snubbing the establishment. What propels you on to your next adventure?

I have a restless and curious mind, and as much as I might not like to face it, I’m probably becoming the food establishment at this point. But I do it because I can. It’s my nature. I get angry when I see abuse, and ecstatic when the experience is great.

I enjoy traveling. I like chefs and get paid to do what I like doing. And, thankfully, I’m not expected to behave or be diplomatic. I’m clearly very lucky and very foolish to do what I do and thankfully I can benefit from low expectations. With Eric [Ripert], he and I have a lot in common, but he has the burden of a reputation to protect and I don’t.

Your independent, take-no-prisoners style of writing is delightfully anarchic. What makes for a good food writer, in your opinion?

Certainly a willingness to step out of one’s comfort zone. If you’re writing about food, it’s very, very important to like and appreciate the people that make your food … also, a lack of snobbery, definitely honesty and to not be willfully disingenuous. If you really enjoy eating food I don’t think you have to know about food. That will come. But you should be passionate about it. Be an honest broker with an open mind and an open heart. I think some of the most dynamic writing on food is obviously coming off the blogosphere.

The chimera is a fabulous fire-breathing monster with the head of a lion, body of a goat, and tail of a serpent. Would you eat it and how would you prepare it?

If I were surprised by it as a guest in someone’s home in a developing country, I would accept it out of politeness, rather than offend my host. Though if I were to prepare it, I’d cook it low and slow with a bottle of good wine.

You’ve eaten your way throughout the four corners of the world. What fusion would you create that hasn’t yet been done?

I’m generally not a fan, I think it’s dangerous territory. But two of my favorite restaurants are in New York, Momofuku Ko and Momofuku Saam, which use French, Southern American, Italian and Korean fusion. It’s utterly fantastic, perhaps because it breaks all the rules.

There have been three books written about [actress] Louise Brooks. One is her autobiography in which she speaks of my grandfather as her greatest paramour. You said that Louise Brooks would be a preferred dining companion at your last supper? Why did you choose her?

I enjoyed her autobiography, “Lulu in Hollywood,” and saw two of her films. I think she was a fascinating and an extraordinarily forward-thinking and independent woman, especially for her times. She struck me as someone with interesting things to say and who would be a powerful presence at the dining table.

On to the more mundane — what are your favorite restaurants in D.C.?

Any restaurant that Jose Andres is associated with. I love Minibar! I love Michel Richard and Bob Kinkead’s place! Oh my God! Who am I leaving out? Oh, and El Pollo Rico! And Eamonn’s too in Alexandria!

What do you cook at home?

Cooking pasta makes me happy. Maybe a steak, but I like to use one pan and keep it simple. I have so little time to spend with my family. In NYC I just pick up the phone and I can order Japanese, Thai, Chinese and French — or a human head delivered!

What foods would you like to see more of in the US?

I like bottarga [cured fish roe] very much and jamon Iberico [Iberian cured ham]. And I know it’s a dream, but more unpasteurized raw milk cheeses, especially really stinky ones from France and Italy … and artisanal sausages from Sardinia.

I’m a sushi slut, so, I’d say more high-quality sushi … though maybe not, because of the over-fishing. As an institution I would like to see Singapore-style hawkers’ centers. That would be a great development for our country.

What importance do you accord to ambiance, food, and service to define a successful restaurant?

These days I like ambiance and service as unobtrusive and informal as possible. What I really appreciate at Momofuku Ko is you’re getting two-star Michelin food over a counter, directly from a cook who’s wearing a dishwasher’s shirt. That’s awesome!

I don’t need flowers and china and expensive silverware, unless you’re talking about French Laundry or Per Se. I am breathless with admiration for those two. But more often then not it’s about the food. If I’m comfortable without a tie, I’m more likely to be enjoying my food. I’d just as soon be in cut-offs and bare feet.

You’ve experienced foods from cultures that no outsider will ever taste. Please choose from the following answers. If an ivory-billed woodpecker was struck by a car and lay by the roadside as you were on my afternoon stroll, you would: A) Try to revive it; B) Call the local bird rehabilitator; C) Fire up the grill; D) Go for the eyeballs first

Call the bird rehabilitator.

Oh my, you are a romantic!

I like cute animals.

What can you tell me about your new book?

I am living in a state somewhere between suspended animation and mortal terror. It comes out June 8 and I have no idea how it will be received. I’m pretty sure there are going to be people pretty angry with me, but it’s too late to stop it now. Talk to me in two months! Right now I’m really looking forward to coming to D.C. to do this rare gig with Eric.

For tickets to “No Reservations: An Evening with Anthony Bourdain and Eric Ripert,” visit [www.warnertheatre.com](http://www.warnertheatre.com).

For questions or comments, contact jordan@whiskandquill.com.

Michelin Three-Star Mixologist Shakes It Up, Old School
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On a balmy evening last week guests gathered around Michelin three-star mixologist Brian Van Flandern for a lesson in margarita-making. On the white crocodile skin-topped bar, Van Flandern laid out all the necessary accoutrements for professional bartending: jiggers, shakers, strainers, ice scoops, crystal pitchers of fresh-squeezed lime juice and freshly-cut lime wedges, including his preferred Don Julio Tequila and light agave syrup. Large silver bowls of ice were ready for eager guests who lined up to measure, ice down, shake, pour and garnish the perfect classic margarita in preparation for their own summer parties.

The natty and knowledgeable consultant Van Flandern, who creates cocktails for the iconic Bemelmans Bar at New York’s posh Carlyle Hotel, Thomas Keller at Per Se, Michel Richard at Citronelle, and Chef Mario Batali, had arrived at the chic Palisades home of Lani Hay, president and CEO of LMT, Inc., for a private dinner and launch of his book “Vintage Cocktails.”

Publishers Prosper and Martine Assouline, whose elegant imprint of luxury books and works of art are found in boutiques in Paris, New York, Los Angeles and Las Vegas, were on hand to celebrate the moment with a dinner menu that was designed around a progression of dishes paired with classic cocktails from the book.

THE COCKTAIL DOCTRINE

“Acid, alcohol and sugar,” Van Flandern instructed his mixologists-in-training. “It’s all about the balance,” he advised while the sloshing and clacking sounds of a battery of Boston shakers filled the room. Everyone had their own Hawthorne strainer to hold back the ice for the straight-up margaritas. A quick tasting was recommended to perfect the balance, and then it was down the hatch.

In an interview, Van Flandern, who grew up in nearby Chevy Chase, described a few of his techniques and ingredients for some of his spectacular cocktails. A purist to the bone, he crafts his exquisite “Tonic and Gin,” designed for New York’s Per Se, using ground CHINCHONA bark from the Amazon rainforest. He also makes his own maraschino-style cherries, using dehydrated Bing cherries reconstituted in hot water.

“They taste just like cherry pie!” he says. He counsels me, “Be sure to save the liquid, add sugar and reduce to make a simple syrup for infusing spirits.”

I wondered where the word “cocktail” originated and why some cocktails are referred to as “vintage” or “classic.” He explained that “at one point in history a certain cocktail gained global popularity and becomes a classic or is destined to become one because of all the publicity it has garnered.”

The term “mixologist” has been usually regarded as pretentious and taboo in the industry, but since a renaissance of the cocktail, he assures me bartenders are embracing the coinage.

“2004 was the 200th anniversary of when the word “cocktail” first appeared in print. And now great bartenders around the world are looking to chefs for direction and focusing on balancing acid to sugar. They are using fresh ingredients, hosting spirits education, and researching the histories of the specific distillation techniques. Even the TERROIR and culture behind where different spirits are made are taken into consideration in developing flavor profiles to create delicious and original cocktails.” A trend likely to continue.

While working with Chef Thomas Keller at Per Se in New York City, Van Flandern lowered the ethanol content of the spirits and paired his cocktails with dinner courses, creating food-friendly cocktails and earning a four-star rating from noted New York Times food writer and wine critic Frank Bruni.

DESIGNER COCKTAILS

Since I misspent some of my salad days at the Bemelmans Bar in the Café Carlyle, where Van Flandern reigns, I asked him to share some original cocktails he has created for the iconic watering hole.

“Sex in the City” Cocktail — On the cover of “Vintage Cocktails” is a photograph of a pretty pink sugar-frosted rim cocktail he calls “The Bradshaw,” named after Carrie Bradshaw of “Sex in the City.” Little known is that real life actress Sarah-Jessica Parker and her husband, Matthew Broderick, had their first date here. To mark the occasion, the drink was designed for her using Don Julio Blanco Tequila, fresh lime juice, simple syrup and the pink-colored, passion fruit-infused X-Rated Vodka. The recipe is just in time for “Sex in the City 2” and should be served at all the private screenings around town.

Tiffany and Co. Cocktail — For his design of “the official cocktail” for Tiffany and Co., he mixed Alize Blue, fresh lime juice, pear vodka, a drizzle of cane sugar syrup and Moscato d’Asti. When presented, it was served in a champagne flute and tied with a white silk ribbon around the base.

Dolce and Gabbana Cocktail — For the launch of their “Light Blue” perfume, he mixed Ciroc Vodka with Granny Smith apple cider and citrus peels, adding cedar wood from a distillation he created using the shavings from a cedar wood clothes hanger.

For questions or comments on this article contact jordan@whiskandquill.com.
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Rumor Has It: Free Wine
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So rumor has it among “the trade” (that’s wine industry speak for people who work in the industry) that there is a group of local wine lovers who taste wine every Saturday — for free. Want to get in on the action?

There are three great inexpensive ways to taste wine in the District: wine stores, local grocery store chains and wine bars/restaurants. The following is a list of recommended places that offer free or inexpensive tastings locally.

Grocery Stores:

Whole Foods in Georgetown on 2323 Wisconsin Ave. has periodic in-store wine tastings for free called “Wine on Wednesdays” from 5 to 7 p.m. The store often offers wine samples, along with a bite of their favorite food pairing.

On March 25 from 7 to 8 p.m. there will be a “Wine Basics” class held in the 1440 P St. Whole Foods store for $15. To register contact tim.hayes@wholefoods.com. $15 will be collected at the door.
Harris Teeter and Trader Joe’s have local stores with a surprisingly wide selection of wines from around the world, given their limited wine department space. Wine importers and distributors do free in-store tasting periodically at both chains. Call the store you are interested in visiting to check the date of the next scheduled wine tasting.

There is also a rumor that the new “Social Safeway” being built on Georgetown’s Wisconsin Avenue has planned a large wine department. [Editor’s note: It’s true. Current renovation plans include a expansive wine section, staffed by two experts.]

Wine Shops:

Pearson’s Liquor and Wine, 2436 Wisconsin Ave.
This Washington institution has since 1933 exuded the impression of a liquor store that sells wine. They offer daily tastings and have a knowledgeable, albeit intimidating wine staff. Beginners may not appreciate the curt reception and the “I don’t have a lot of time to spend with you” wine education, but knowledgeable wine enthusiasts will do fine here. Come for the free tastings and a chance to sample wines you may not get exposed to otherwise.

DeVinos, 2001 18th Street
This trendy wine shop is located at the lower tip of Adams Morgan. It’s a fun place to stop in to quickly select a bottle to go with Friday night dinner at home or on your way to a Saturday evening party when you are the one bringing the wine. Their selections run heavy on South American and Italian reds. Staff is friendly and knowledgeable. They offer free tastings Thursday and Friday evenings from 5:30 to 8 p.m.

The Wine Specialist, 215 M Street
This store has a great selection of Old and New World wines, a surprising amount of half bottle selections and some unusual finds (try a gewürztraminer from Italy and a red zinfandel from Australia). The staff is friendly and enthusiastic for you to taste. Their next tasting is being planned now for Italian wines on March 12. Check their Web site for a calendar of upcoming events or call the store at 202-833-0707.

Restaurants:

There are more and more wine bars popping up all over the city and too many to mention here. Wine bars and restaurants are a great way to explore wine in an unrushed, relaxed setting, though there is usually a cost involved. These restaurants offer wine flights (usually one- to two-ounce servings of three different wines based on a theme or region) for a typical cost of less than $15:

Cork Wine Bar, 1720 14th Street
If you can tear yourself away from people watching, Cork offers several wine flights each weekend. On our recent visit they offered four wine flights, ranging in price from $10-15, which consisted of French and Italian wines including prosecco, southwestern French whites and a red wine flight made from montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Cork also has a retail wine store located up the street that offers daily tastings weekdays from 5 to 7 p.m. and Saturday from 3 to 6 p.m.

Bistrot Lepic and Wine Bar, 1736 Wisconsin Ave
The venerable French bistro located at the top of Georgetown offers free tasting every Tuesday from 6 to 8 p.m., and all wines by the glass are half price Wednesday to Monday 5:30 to 7 p.m.

Some parting tips:

Most wine shops have one or two days a week they have bottles open for complimentary tasting. Call around to local shops near you to check their schedules to verify tastings are being held and which day.

Sign up for your favorite store’s wine department e-mail notices. You will often be the first to learn about in-store or special tastings.

Don’t be afraid to talk to the person serving the wine. They are usually the wine distributor representative or importer responsible for placing the wine in the store. They get paid to educate you and stir up interest in the wines they offer free samples of, so use them as a source of information. Ask them where they will be doing their next in-store tasting. If you have more questions or don’t have time to get all your questions answered, ask them for their contact information or business card.

Use the dump bucket! It’s okay to spit and/or pour the wine out into the dump bucket, especially if you are going to be driving around afterward.

And one last tip: Enjoy!

Cocktail of the Week
• November 2, 2011

When was the last time you had punch at a party? Was it an enjoyable experience? Dan Searing posed these two questions during a recent event sponsored by the Museum of the American Cocktail at the Passenger bar in October. Searing, a partner in the intimate Room 11 lounge in Columbia Heights, hosted the event, which featured delectable drink samples from his new book, “The Punch Bowl – 75 Recipes Spanning Four Centuries of Wanton Revelry.”

Many attendees, recalling a less than-spectacular cup of punch, snickered at Searing’s opening queries. But by the end of the evening, there was little doubt that everyone appreciated his carefully crafted concoctions.

While the history of punch dates back centuries, it’s recent incantations have caused many to associate it with a strong mixture of cheap booze served at college parties or a sugary-sweet refreshment they sipped on at their class reunions or a baby shower. Searing decidedly altered those memories with his sophisticated and freshly-made libations.

Punch dates back hundreds of years when it was made by the English in India. The name punch most likely came for the Hindustani word “panch,” meaning five. Ancient punches were forged from five ingredients: traditionally tea, lemon, sugar, water and arrack, an Asian spirit distilled from palm sap.
According to Searing’s book, sailors plying the waters of the Atlantic became particularly fond of punch and it found its way from India to pubs in England and North America, and eventually into people’s homes. During the era of triangular trade, rum became commonly used in punches.
As the trend grew, elaborate punch bowls became fashionable and the design and material of the bowl became status symbols for their owners.

Right now, cocktails are undergoing a fantastic renaissance, and punch is following closely behind. Searing proved that a glass of punch could be as distinctive and tasteful as a finely forged cocktail. While many punches in Searing’s collection are historical in nature, the book also features 25 contemporary creations from some of today’s top mixologists.

One of the of the classic recipes included is Fish House Punch, which Searing describes as “A concoction shrouded in secrecy (and ongoing disagreement about its exact ingredients). “According to Searing, “this grand recipe comes from the Schuylkill Fishing Company, one of America’s oldest men’s clubs, originally founded in 1732. Prominent figures in American history, including George Washington, have enjoyed a glass or two of Fish House Punch at the famous club (which still exists today, though no longer in Schuylkill county.”

Fish House Punch has a strong citrus tang up front followed by rich and layered flavor stemming from two types of rum. While its bright sunny taste would be refreshing on a warm day, the full-bodied and savory attributes from the cognac and brown sugar would make this an enjoyable tipple on a cool autumn evening.

Ingredients to make Fish House punch may be purchased at Dixie Liquor at 3429 M St. in Georgetown. Searing’s book ““The Punch Bowl – 75 Recipes Spanning Four Centuries of Wanton Revelry,” is available online and at Room 11.

Fish House Punch – Circa 1732
15 to 20 servings

4 cups freshly squeezed lime juice (about 32 limes)
2 cups freshly squeezed lemon juice (about 12 lemons)
1 cup dark brown sugar
1 cup Appleton’s Estate Reserve dark rum
2 cups Flor de Cana Extra Dry 4 Year Old white rum
1 cup Pierre Ferrand Cognac
1 block of ice

Pour the lemon and lime juices into a large punch bowl. Add the brown sugar, and gently stir until dissolved. Slowly add the dark and light rums and the brandy, stirring constantly. Slowly ease the block of ice into the punch bowl.  Put the punch bowl into the refrigerator, and chill for 3 hours. Stir the punch every few hours to help the flavors blend.  When ready to serve, remove the bowl from the refrigerator and, if need be, add more ice.

The Latest Dish
•

Hank’s Oyster Bar & Lounge at 1624 Q Street NW has doubled in size with both inside and outside dining as well as a private upstairs room that can accommodate up to 24 guests. Architect Eric Gronning transformed the space into a hip neighborhood oasis. For those into creative cocktail menus, that has expanded too as chef/owner Jamie Leeds hired a beverage director, Dana Mosbarger, and a mixologist, Megan Coyle. If you appreciate great limoncello (as I do), Megan created two types of delicious, authentic house-made limoncello.

Ch-ch-ch-changes:

Michael Sternberg re-acquired Harry’s Tap Room in Clarendon and plans to re-open it as Market Tavern later this month … Härth at Hilton McLean Tysons Corner just opened their new 52-seat outdoor patio complete with fire pits and fall cocktails to warm guests up inside and out … Ballston’s Willow Restaurant has expanded with a new bakery and casual bistro (lower price points) inside. Instead of opening a new restaurant, chefs/owners and wife/husband, Tracy O’Grady and Brian Wolken expanded within their existing space. The bistro’s small plates menu offers a variety of vegetarian options. The new “Kate at Willow” allows Kate Jansen to stretch her pastry chef creativity, which is a bonus for us all. The Ritz-Carlton, Georgetown has changed Degrees Lounge into Degrees Bistro, a French-inspired bistro with banquette seating for 46, serving breakfast, lunch, dinner and casual bar food. This new dining space was made necessary by their conversion of Fahrenheit restaurant into an event space.

He’s not just the master of fine dining French restaurants. Michel Richard plans to open a restaurant focused on meatballs in Penn Quarter at 626 E St. NW. Not just meatballs, but meatballs to be ordered with pasta, salad or sandwiches at prices up to $10. Slated to open in November, it will be called Meatballs, which is also the name of one of my favorite Bill Murray movies.

Chef & GM Update:

Joe Sluger has been named the new general manager for The Melting Pot in Gaithersburg. The new chef de cuisine at Watershed by Todd Gray is Godofredi Vaquerano, who has spent 11 years working with Todd Gray and held the same position at Equinox. Todd named Karen Nichols the executive chef at Equinox – a first in the restaurant’s history. Karen served as sous-chef at Gramercy Tavern in New York City.

Openings Update:

Cafe Deluxe, now operated by Clover Restaurant Group (CRG), will open in the RIO Center in Gaithersburg in mid-November, serving American brasserie fare. This will be its fourth location, with others in Tysons Corner, Bethesda, and Cleveland Park in D.C. CRG also plans to open its second Tortilla Coast at 15th and P Streets, NW in Logan Circle in mid-December. The new location will vary from its Tex-Mex sister restaurant on Capitol Hill and offer authentic Mexican fare … PAUL USA, the bakery that opened its first D.C. location at 801 Pennsylvania, NW has recently opened its second location on Wisconsin Avenue near M Street, NW… Wagamama, which has been expected to open in Penn Quarter for a while now, is now shooting for a spring 2012 opening in the space on 7th St, NW formerly occupied by Olsson’s Books … The second Founding Farmers farm-to-table-themed restaurant is slated to open in early November at 12505 Park Potomac Ave. in Potomac, Md. It will be overseen by corporate chef Joe Goetze, executive chef Rob Ross and pastry chef Courtney Goldian.

Quick Hits:

Mike Cordero, owner of Caribbean Breeze, Malibu Grill and Aqua Vida in Old Town plans to open Bronx Pizza in early December in Clarendon. Sushiko has a combination ramen and izakaya (Japanese pub) restaurant called Daikaya, slated to open next year at 705 Sixth St., NW in Penn Quarter … Pizza CS, a pizzeria slated to open in the first half of November in Rockville (where Three Brothers Italian Restaurant used to be), will feature Neapolitan pizza. Owners/operators are Ankur Rajpara and John Allen, formerly of local restaurant group, Latin Concepts. Bethesda Bagels is slated to open in the former Johnny Rockets space at 1718 Connecticut Ave. NW in north Dupont Circle by end of November. Jason Story and Carolina Gomez plan to open a charcuterie shop called Three Little Pigs in Petworth at 5111 Georgia Ave., NW by year’s end. Their plan calls for a sandwich station, retail space and charcuterie classes.

2100 Prime has opened in The Fairfax Hotel where The Jockey Club used to hold court. The new chef is Mark Timms, native of Sheffield, England, who has re-vamped the menu with lower prices and a greater focus on sustainable and local foods.

Chef/owner Patrick Bazin and his wife Julie plan to open a new authentic Mexican restaurant called Alegria, next door to their restaurant Bazin’s on Church, in Falls Church. It is slated to open in late December of 2011. The menu will showcase authentic Mexican food with a very strong connection to local growers and specialty regional suppliers. Outdoor dining on the patio will be offered as weather allows. The name Alegria (which means happiness) was chosen as a result of a Facebook page contest to name the new restaurant. The winner won dinner for eight on opening night for their winning submission.

Attention chefs:

MasterChef Season Three Open Calls are taking place. You will be given a few minutes to plate your dish at the given casting location, but there will not be a kitchen to cook or warm it up so come prepared. Visit MasterChefCasting.com. The event takes place Nov. 12 at Trinity Washington University from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

The Latest Dish
• October 5, 2011

Jamie Stachowski and his son, Josef, are taking over Griffin Market in Georgetown to open what Jamie calls “a rustic Hansel & Gretel house of beef,” featuring salamis and sausages as well as sandwiches (hand-cut pastrami – I’m there), beef, pork, and more exotic items like duck pate, fois gras, confit; prepared items like turkey for Thanksgiving, short ribs and meatballs. They plan to be up and running by November.

The Capital Hilton at 16th and K Streets, NW, will open its restaurant,North Gate Grill, in November. It will open serving breakfast and lunch, before dinner service is added to the dining program. The name, North Gate Grill, refers to its location down the street from the north gate of the White House. The chef is Daniel Murray, formerly of Renaissance Cleveland. But before that, he worked here in D.C. at Blackie’s.

Ray’s the Steaks and Ray’s Hell Burger owner Michael Landrum has opened the latest restaurant in his Ray’s empire: Ray’s to the Third, selling steak frites 13 different ways. It’s only open for dinner, with plans for lunch service in the future, located at 1650 Wilson Blvd in the Rosslyn/Courthouse area of Arlington.

Richard Pawlowski, owner/operator of numerous Cosi and Qdoba Mexican Grill locations in the metro area, is opening America’s first outpost of London-based YO!Sushi in D.C. inside Union Station in 2012. The U.K. eatery is known for its conveyor-belt style of sushi service, also known as a Japanese “kaiten” sushi bar, as the sushi rolls, sashimi and Asian salads and dishes are color-coded as the belt moves past. Pawlowski has teamed up with his good friend, Darren Wightman, who will serve as operating partner for YO!Sushi. Wightman was formerly the executive chef for YO!Sushi in the U.K. He also worked for London-based Ping Pong Dim Sum as executive chef.

Quick Hits

BGR: The Burger Joint plans to open before year’s end in Gaithersburg’s Rio Center as well as in the Cascades in Sterling, Va. Also slated to open at Washingtonian Center: Nando’s Peri Peri and Café Deluxe. Al Forno, an Italian trattoria will open this fall at 3201 New Mexico Ave., NW, in the former Balducci’s space. The restaurant will feature a wood-burning oven for Neapolitan pizza, and outdoor dining, just like at its neighbor, Chef Geoff’s. New York-based Boqueria plans to open in Dupont Circle this fall, their first location outside of New York. They offer Barcelona-inspired tapas. Filter Coffeehouse plans to open its second location in Foggy Bottom near the World Bank at 19th and I Streets, NW. The plan is for it to be open before year’s end.

EatWell DC who brought us Logan Tavern, Grillfish, Commissary and The Heights, will open another Logan Circle eatery, The Pig at 1320 14th St., NW, featuring – what else? – pork. They will source foods from their own farm, EatWell Natural Farm in La Plata, Md., and use locally raised pigs. They will also offer craft cocktails, American beers and wines from eco-conscious producers as well as small batch bourbons. A second quarter 2012 opening is planned.

Relying mostly on the money he has made through his technology business, Steve Acup is opening Log Inn at Lucketts at Route 15 and Spinks Ferry Road. Although his plans call for a March 2012 opening, he has set up a mobile trailer with a commercial kitchen to give the neighbors a taste of what to expect at Log Inn. The restaurant will serve pizza, pasta, ribs, Italian beef sandwiches and cheesecakes. Acup is developing the recipes but hiring people to cook and execute the concept for the up to 125-seat restaurant.

Chef Drew Trautmann, formerly of Mendocino Grille & Wine Bar in Georgetown, and Jawad Saadaoui, of Redwood in Bethesda, plan to open District Kitchen this month in the space where Jandara used to be at 2606 Connecticut Ave., NW, in Woodley Park. The 75-seat space will offer American food, similar to Woodberry Kitchen (re: rustic) in Baltimore. Drew’s sous chef is Daniel Velasco, whom he worked with at Mendocino Grille.

Town Hall restaurant, 2218 Wisconsin Ave, NW in Glover Park will be moving a block north into the old Blue Ridge space at 2340 Wisconsin Ave., NW. Eli Hengst and Jared Rager, owners of both places, negotiated a deal that also allows Town Hall to assume Blue Ridge’s liquor license. Their former space now also comes with its own liquor license, a very attractive amenity these days. Town Hall plans to be open in their new space by Thanksgiving.

The Georgetown ANC approved a liquor license application for Malmaison, a restaurant slated to open at the corner of 34th and K Streets, NW. The owners also own and operate Cafe Bonaparte at Wisconsin Avenue and P Street, NW. The new dessert cafe’s name can translate into “naughty house” or “ill-fated domain” but is actually a reference to Napoleon’s Château de Malmaison.

Chef Update

Dennis Marron is the new executive chef at Poste Moderne Brasserie, adjacent to Kimpton’s Monaco Hotel near the Verizon Center. He comes from Kimpton’s Old Town property, the Grille at Morrison House and Jackson 20. Mark Timms has been named executive chef at 2100 Prime, the restaurant in The Fairfax Hotel that used to be the Jockey Club.

Openings Update

Passion Food Hospitality will open Burger, Tap & Shake before it opens District Commons at 2200 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, at Washington Circle in Foggy Bottom, which is sprouting foodservice options each month. District Commons will feature 20 American beers on tap. It will also be one of the few places in the area open for breakfast. Both should be open before the fourth quarter of 2011… The folks who own Tryst in Adams Morgan plan to open a taqueria at Lamont & 11 Street, NW. The working name is Margot’s Chair. If the construction gods allow, a January 2012 opening is planned. … Enzo Fargione’s Elisir on 11th Street, NW, in Penn Quarter plans to be open in October 2011 … The Hamilton, brought to you by Clyde’s Restaurant group in the former Borders space near Old Ebbitt Grill, will have three bars upstairs and two bars downstairs, and plans to be open before year’s end. Roti Mediterranean Grill plans to open on F Street, NW, the end of this month, and at Union Station, in first quarter of 2012.

Linda Roth Conte is president of Linda Roth Associates, Inc. (LRA), specializing in making creative connections through media relations, marketing initiatives, community outreach and special events for the hospitality industry. Contact Linda at 703-417-2700 or linda@lindarothpr.com or visit her web site at www.lindarothpr.com

Miller Lite Scoreboard Walk at Nationals Park: Food Party Spot With a View
• September 13, 2011

It is a walk that is also a hit. While the Washington Nationals took care of the Philadelphia Phillies this past weekend, their ball park was taking care of hungry and thirsty baseball fans. And while around the stadium there are food spots aplenty, one space stands out: the Miller Lite Scoreboard Walk with its Miller Lite Party Nights.

The Miller Lite Scoreboard Walk, located on the mezzanine level of the stadium with its own escalator to the left of the centerfield gates behind the main scoreboard, is fast becoming a meeting hot spot as its walking area and restaurant space gives baseball fans an elevated view of the field – and a place to see and be seen.

During the Miller Lite Party Nights – Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays – fans can buy a Scoreboard Pavilion seat for $20 ($22 for prime games) and get a drink voucher for the Miller Lite Scoreboard Walk Bar. Live entertainment starts two-and-a-half hours before the start of each game. Five-dollar happy-hour beer specials are available two-and-a-half hours before the first pitch at the Miller Lite Scoreboard Walk Bar for all remaining home games this season.

In fact, one of a group of fans enjoyed the food and space so much last week, they stayed put and sat in the lounge chairs and at the high tables for most of the game.

With approximately 15,000 square feet of open space, it is easy to lounge in the new chairs, listen to pregame music and partake of burgers and shakes from Shake Shack, Union Square Hospitality Group’s most popular joint, along with Danny Meyer’s other offerings, Blue Smoke, El Verano Taquería and Box Frites. You can hang at the Walk and watch the new HDTV screen behind the scoreboard and never a moment of the action on the field. Baseball, hot dogs, burgers, real pit barbeque, tacos, Belgian fries and beer and wine – and shakes and custards. No strikeout here.

Nationals Park is the third sports venue with the Union Square eateries; the other two are the New York Mets’ Citi Field and the Saratoga Racing Course.

Here are some fun green facts about Miller Lite Scoreboard Walk that the Nationals are proud of. Building on the ballpark’s environmentally-friendly design, the enhanced Miller Lite Scoreboard Walk incorporates sustainable elements which include the following: indigenous plants and trees, which require less water and maintenance while also improving air quality; all the under plantings are herbs, which attract butterflies and will give off an herbal scent when in bloom from May to November; all plantings were installed with composted materials, while the trees were grown from intercropping.

Unique to the refreshed area are the 14 shade sails suspended by turnbuckles covering the space. The sails were designed and provided by Tenshon specifically for the Nationals. They will reduce ambient
temperature up to 20 degrees and provide protection of up to 93.7 percent of UV rays, protecting fans from excessive heat and sun exposure. Each sail measures 16 feet by 10 feet and is made of fully recyclable HDPE architectural shade fabric.

Cocktail of the Week
• September 7, 2011

By Miss Dixie
Last week on a perfect summer night, an annual event for a select group of music fans was celebrated in D.C. Parrotheads flocked to suburban Virginia for Jimmy Buffet’s annual tour and marked the event by downing margaritas in droves. While I am not a Buffet fan by any means, I am truly a margarita lover.

No other musician is so closely associated with a cocktail than Buffet and the margarita, after his continually-played “Margaritaville” tune hit the airwaves in 1977. Buffet’s ode to his island escape played a huge role in elevating the margarita to the number one tequila cocktail in the U.S. Its popularity in the states has surpassed its prominence in Mexico, where the Paloma is the preferred tipple.

Today, Buffet rakes in millions peddling pre-mixed bottled drinks and serving margaritas to fans in his vast of chain of theme-restaurants.

Unfortunately for the margarita, its place in the sun has greatly altered a drink that was once delightful and refreshing. These days, it is enjoyed by most in a ready-mixed, preprocessed or machine-dispensed form that vaguely resembles its origins.

As Buffet strummed his signature diddy last week, mullet-haired, Hawaiian-shirt wearing fans sang along holding foot-high Slurpee-like drinks housed in plastic guitar-shaped glasses purported by concessionaires to be frozen margaritas.

The original margarita is timeless mixture of tequila, orange liqueur (or triple sec) and lime juice. It is a textbook example of David Embury’s “Roll Your Own” theory that drinks are made up of three components – a liquor base, (tequila) a sweetener, (triple sec) and a sour (lime juice). Embury put forth this theory in 1948 book, “The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks.” Other cocktails that follow this formula include the daiquiri, whiskey sour and the sidecar.

With a recipe this simple, it’s hard to understand how the margarita ventured so far from it roots. For starters, instead of picking up a detergent-sized bottle of margarita mix, invest in an inexpensive lime squeezer and half dozen of limes. If you don’t want to be hassled by squeezing fresh fruit on the spot, make a batch ahead and refrigerate. It will make a world of difference.

While cheap varieties of triple sec abound, I suggest upping the ante. Many bartenders use Cointreau, a French liqueur, or Grand Mariner, a Cognac distilled with orange. My personal recommendation is Patron Citronage, a high-end triple sec made by one of the most respected tequila makers in the world.

Your choice of tequila also plays a big role. Tequila is a distilled spirit made from the blue agave plant. While some tequilas are 100 percent agave, those labeled “mixto” are made with a minimum of 51 percent with other sugars making up the remainder.

While many mixologists prefer silver or un-aged tequila for their mixability in cocktails, I prefer margaritas forged from a reposado tequila, which is aged in a barrel for up to a year. Slightly aged tequila provides an extra layer of flavor and complexity.

As for garnishes, the time-honored margarita should be served on the rocks (my apologies to the frozen drink lovers) and in a glass rimmed with salt. The pinch of salt brightens the fresh, sweet and sour flavor and adds a bit of twang.

Follow these simple steps and you can enjoy a simply sublime cocktail that has become an American summer tradition. The choice of background music is up to you.

Margarita

2 oz. 100-percent agave tequila

1 oz. triple sec, Citronage, Cointreau or Grand Marnier

1 oz. freshly squeezed lime juice

Salt for garnish
 

The Latest Dish
•

Chef Francesco Ricchi is moving his namesake Italian restaurant, Cesco, to a larger location in Bethesda. Cesco Trattoria will occupy the former McCormick and Schmick’s location at 7401 Woodmont Ave. This new, large pizza and pasta restaurant (10,000 square feet) will feature a roomy neighborhood bar accompanied by a big bar. It is slated to open in mid-October.

The Smoke & Barrel is the name of the new upstairs beer bar at Asylum, a vegetarian (and vegan) restaurant on 18th Street, NW in the Petworth section of D.C. John Andrade and partners also own Meridian Pint, so there’s the connection. The new name reflects the highlights of the place: barbecue, beer and bourbon (what, no bacon?!) . Yum.

Mintwood Place is slated to open this fall on Columbia Road, N.W., in Adams Morgan where the yogurt shop underneath Perry’s used to be. Saied Ayoubi owns both Perry’s and Mintwood Place. Chef will be Cedric Maupillier, whose impressive resume includes Maestro, Central by Michel Richard and Citronelle. He was also part of the opening team for Medium Rare in Cleveland Park. The chef plans to source food and beverage ingredients locally and to complement the green build-out, much of the wood used was from an Amish barn in Pennsylvania. It will be open for breakfast (house-made croissants!), lunch and dinner. There are 124 seats inside and 24 on the patio.

White House staffers, your options for lunch are increasing. New-York-based Chop’t plans to open at 1730 Pennsylvania Ave., N.W. Illinois-based gourmet sandwich chain Jimmy Johns plans to open nearby at 1717 Pennsylvania Ave., N.W., in September. They also plan to open another Jimmy Johns at 14th and L Streets N.W., later this fall.

Spike Mendelsohn’s Good Stuff Eatery plans to expand to Crystal City on Crystal Drive, near Jaleo. It will be much larger than the Capitol Hill original spot, with the addition of a PDR (private dining room). A January opening is targeted. Based on customer comments, he, along with his sister, Micheline, is also planning a Georgetown location.

On Sept. 7, Sara Polon planned the opening of her first Soupergirl, with a dash of humor and recipes from her mother, Soupermom, aka Marilyn Polon. Soupergirl will offer homemade soups and salads that feature seasonal, fresh ingredients from local farmers, as well locally sourced breads and baked goods. It’s open for self-service lunch and dinner and carry-out. All soups, salads and baked goods are vegan and are under orthodox kosher supervision. All biodegradable scraps are deposited in the compost bins which Soupergirl shares with fellow residents of the conservation-minded building in which the store is located. Dark wood tables and light green chairs are made from 111 recycled Coke bottles. Did we mention this is in the Takoma section of D.C., or was that obvious?

Banh mi is a traditional Vietnamese sandwich of pickled vegetables and fillings such as chicken, pork and meatballs, tofu and butternut squash, in a baguette. This Vietnamese quick food has been growing in popularity in the region, care of BonMi, whose new banh mi shop will open in the former Sandella’s space at 1911 I St., N.W. A late September opening is planned.

Katsuya Fukushima has been named the new head chef at Daikaya in Chinatown (or Penn Quarter), the new ramen restaurant owned by Sushiko co-owner Daisuke Utagawa. Previously the Okinawa native worked for Jose Andres’ ThinkFoodGroup. Daikaya, is scheduled to open on 6th Street, N.W., behind the Verizon Center in the first quarter 2012.

Quick Hits:
Morton’s The Steakhouse has signed a lease to re-locate its Tysons Corner steakhouse to the former Borders location in Tysons Corne, with an opening planned for 2012. Grill Kabob will open at 33rd and M Streets, N.W., in Georgetown in the old Aditi Indian restaurant space. Panera plans to open at DCUSA on Irving Street in Columbia Heights between IHOP and Panda Express by October.

Florida-based Miller’s Ale House will open its first Washington-area location at 1500 Rockville Pike next summer. This casual dining restaurant and has 50 locations nationwide. Speaking of Rockville, look for Geoff Tracy to open one of his restaurant concepts in the Againn space in Rockville. U.K.-based Wagamama (think noodles) is planning to open in the former Olsson’s bookstore space at 418 Seventh St., N.W., in Penn Quarter in early 2012. Michael Landrum, creator of the Ray’s The Steaks empire, plans to open RYSE, an urban bakeshop/café, in the City Vista building at 1065 5th St., N.W., in Mt. Vernon Square. Roti Mediterranean Grill is slated to open at 1501 Wilson Blvd. next spring, part of 14,500 square feet formerly (and partially) occupied by Oak Street Café. Also opening in Rosslyn, Ahra Cafe & Sandwich Bar at 1100 Wilson Blvd., referred to as the twin towers. Paul Park is the owner. Duplex Diner on 18th Street, N.W., between Dupont Circle and Adams Morgan has a new look and a new owner. Founding owner Eric Hirshfield sold his lucky 13-year-old place to longtime bartender, Kevin Lee. Hikari Sushi & Sake Bar is planning to open in the Atlas District at 644 H Street, N.E. Boundary Stone is under construction in Bloomingdale section of D.C. at 116 Rhode Island Ave., N.W. You’ll know the bar is open when you see the huge neon Sylvan sign (from the old Sylvan Theater) lit out front. A variety of micro-brewed beers will be featured. Marrakesh Lounge is slated to open in Adams Morgan at 1817 Columbia Rd., N.W., where Evolve used to be. Adams Morgan is popping restaurants: The Mellow Mushroom is now shooting to open this month at the old 18th and Red location, 2436 18th St., N.W. They were at the mercy of the construction gods. Cheesetique in Virginia’s Del Ray section (not far from National Airport) plans to open in the Village at Shirlington this fall. They have also added a dining room to the back of their Del Ray store.

Chef Update:
Dan Giusti, head chef at 1789, is heading to across the Atlantic to Copenhagen to work at Noma, currently ranked as No. 1 restaurant in the world by S. Pellegrino’s World’s Top Restaurants. He will not be the head chef, but he will learn unique preparations from the ground up. The kitchen at 1789 will be manned by Brian Stickel, who previously worked there, and will soon be chef at The Clyde’s Group’s forthcoming downtown restaurant and music venue, The Hamilton. Cesare Lanfranconi is now at Lia’s, part of Geoff Tracy’s restaurant empire. Derek Brown has hired Joe Rumberger to run the kitchens at The Passenger and Columbia Rood, the twin bars on 7th Street, N.W., he owns with his brother Tom. Previously, Joe was sous chef at Restaurant Nora. John Engle has been named chef de cuisine at Robert Wiedmaier’s Brasserie Beck in downtown D.C. Previously he was sous chef at Marcel’s, then at the helm of Mussel Bar by RW in Bethesda.

Peter Pastan plans to expand his creative operations, but this time way outside of the D.C. area in California’s Central Coast, about an hour north of Santa Barbara. His latest venture is a bakery called Lompoc, located behind the Piedrasassi New Vineland Winery, which he owns a part of, so knows the area is in need of a good place to eat. Peter owns Obelisk in Dupont Circle and Two Amys (his wife being one of the two). He will make his own bread and grow his own wheat for it, as he also leases land from a wheat farmer nearby.

Linda Roth Conte is president of Linda Roth Associates, Inc. (LRA) specializing in making creative connections through media relations, marketing initiatives, community outreach and special events for the hospitality industry. Contact Linda at 703-417-2700 or linda@lindarothpr.com or visit her web site at LindaRothPR.com.

The Latest Dish
• August 10, 2011

The coffee shop revolution has hit a new front with the opening of the uber-cool (check out the gossip columns for who goes there in LA) The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, at the Washington Hilton. It will be their second East Coast store, the first being Miami. It is slated to open this fall in the Connecticut Avenue lobby, with easy access for commuters in the Dupont Circle corridor. The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf is a Los Angeles, California-based coffee chain, with over 750 locations in 22 countries, including Australia, Brunei, China, Egypt, India, Indonesia, Israel, South Korea, Kuwait, Malaysia, Mexico, Philippines, Qatar, Singapore, Sri Lanka United Arab Emirates and Vietnam.

It’s official: the guys who brought you Matchbox have signed a lease to open at 14th and T, NW. This will be the fourth Matchbox in the D.C. area, as they also own and operate a fifth matchbox in Palm Springs, Ca.

Chris George plans to open Memphis Barbeque in the former Mackey’s Pub space in Crystal City before summer ends. A significant facelift is in the works. George got his start with Houston’s, but has also worked at Occidental Grill and Mike’s American Grill. There will also be a large patio for dining when the weather permits.

Bistro Le Zinc has arrived just in time to take advantage of the recent release of Woody Allen’s movie, “Midnight in Paris.” The Macomb Street bistro is owned and operated by Brasserie Beck’s former manager John Warner and executive chef David Ashwell, who also cooked at Marcel’s. The name comes from the term “les zincs” referring to the pewter bar counter tops often found in French cafes. There is seating for 60 inside and 20 on the patio.

The head chef of Café Atlantico, Richard Brandenburg, has been hired by Edens & Avant, one of the big boys in real estate development, as its first director of culinary strategy. Café Atlantico closed in June to make room for America Eats Tavern, the edible collaboration between Jose Andres’ ThinkFoodGroup and the National Archives.

The retail space on the corner of the 4th and Massachusetts Ave. NW (NoMa) will be the home to a new “European Café with wine bar” to be called TEL’VEH.

Chef Bryan Voltaggio has two restaurants in the works, both slated for next year. The first will be in Frederick, Voltaggio’s hometown and the site of Volt. The working name for the 10,000-square-foot space is North Market Kitchen, and it’ll have a large dining room, a store, and exhibition kitchen with stations for pasta, raw seafood, cheese, baked goods, and rotisserie meats. Voltaggio was inspired by New York’s Eataly. Closer to D.C. will be a bistro/steakhouse hybrid in Chevy Chase Pavilion, also home to a Cheesecake Factory. Voltaggio’s 220-seat restaurant will have an open kitchen.

Speaking of Eataly, rumor is that Joe Bastianich and Mario Batali are scouting sites in D.C. to open an Eataly, which is comprised of a food hall that sells gourmet foods and several restaurants. They will need a big space.

Developer Forest City Washington announced Monday the signing of seven new restaurants anchored by a Harris Teeter grocery store at its new project called The Yards near Nationals Park. The restaurants, all slated to open in 2012, will include Potbelly, Buzz Bakery, Austin Grill Express, Kruba Thai and Sushi, BRB-Be Right Burger, Huey’s 24/7 Diner and a brew pub from Neighborhood Restaurant Group, the group behind Birch & Barley and ChurchKey.

Chef Update: ThinkFoodGroup has promoted Joe Raffa, the head chef at Oyamel, to culinary operations director for the restaurant company, overseeing the culinary operations of 11 concepts in three U.S. markets. He will be replaced at Oyamel by industry veteran John Paul Damato, formerly the head chef of Jaleo in Bethesda. Chef Richard Beckel is the culinary force behind Thompson Hospitality’s BRB: Be Right Burger, awhile he is head chef at American Tap Room. A Culinary Institute of America in NY graduate, Chef Beckel has worked at Hooked Seafood Restaurant in Sterling, Va. as well as The Caucus Room in Penn Quarter, D.C.

Managers Update: Gil Fornaris has been hired as General Manager of Ping Pong Dim Sum at the new Dupont Circle location – slated to open in September, but will take on the roll of Operations Manager for both that and the Penn Quarter location. Morton’s, The Steakhouse in Georgetown has a new Sales and Marketing Manager, Carla McCully, who hails from Hilton Dulles.

Openings Update: Shaw’s Tavern slated to open by August on Florida Ave., NW. It appears the restaurants on the Georgetown waterfront at Washington Harbour will not be open until spring 2012. Pinkberry, the tart frozen yogurt shop, plans to open in Georgetown in October. RJ Cooper’s Rogue 24 opened on July 27, which is why he could not do the Chefs Go Fresh motorcycle ride on July 26 (bummer).

Bobby Flay is planning to open another Bobby’s Burger Palace at 2121 K Street, NW on Aug. 16 with his famed crunch burgers and boozy milk shakes.