Food & Wine

Natalie Koltun • August 4, 2014

Crumbs Bake Shop, the specialty cupcake store known for its colossal cakes that closed last week, may be making a colossal “crumback,” thanks to Marcus Lemonis who has rescued makers of baked products before.

After voluntarily filing for Chapter 11 bankruptcy, Crumbs unexpectedly shut down all its 48 remaining stores in 10 states July 7, including three in D.C., according to the company. The D.C. stores were near 11th and F Streets, NW, near 19th and L Streets, NW, and at Union Station.

The New York City-based company, founded in 2003, had already closed 15 underperforming stores and was notified that Nasdaq planned to delist the company’s shares from the stock exchange, expediting the popular bakery’s imminent demise.

A joint venture by Fischer Enterprises and Lemonis, the company behind Dippin’ Dots ice cream, has agreed to provide financing and acquire the bankrupt Crumbs. Lemonis, host of CNBC’s reality television show, “The Profit,” has previously invested in several other snack-based companies, including Doc Popcorn, Wicked Good Cupcakes, Sweet Pete’s Candy and Little Miss Muffin.

To strengthen the future of Crumbs, Lemonis and Fischer said they want to use their prior knowledge of these snack stores to take the company beyond just cupcakes and attract a broader range of customers, potentially expanding their product line to ice cream, popcorn or other sweet treats.

The agreement also includes a retail strategy of evaluating each location with the goal to reopen select ones, possibly even adding new stores if necessary, as well as move toward a franchise store model.

It is still unclear when exactly Crumbs – and in what form — will be re-opening for business.

Joseph Park • July 31, 2014

Georgetown is adding to its wide variety of cuisine available in the neighborhood.

Here is an update on the upcoming new restaurants in Georgetown:

Bangkok Joe’s, well-known for its delicate Thai cuisine closed June 1 to covnert the space into a new South East Asian and French Restaurant called Mama Rouge. The new restaurant will open in early September. Mama Rouge will be located at 3000 K St., NW.

Orange Anchor, a new nautically-themed restaurant located on the Georgetown Waterfront will open in early August. The restaurant will offer seafood dishes as well as other beachy dishes, including signature hot dogs and corn dogs. The restaurant will also offer 40 different kinds of rum-heavy spirits to complement the food being served. The restaurant will be at 3050 K St., NW.

A new Japanese-style teriyaki griller will open early November at 1515 Wisconsin Ave, NW. The site of the restaurant is currently undergoing construction for extensive interior renovation. This restaurant plans to operate 8 a.m. to 2 a.m., Sunday through Thursday, and 8 a.m. to 3 a.m., Friday and Saturday, to help accommodate late night eaters of Georgetown.

With Chez Billy Sud, the Hilton brothers are looking to open up their newest location in Georgetown as they take over the former Café La Ruche at 1039 31st St., NW, early August. This restaurant will feature authentic Southern French cuisine, craft cocktails and a wide variety of French wines.

Il Canale, one of Georgetown’s favorite Italian restaurants, is expanding into the old Cannon’s Seafood building. The new, additional space is undergoing interior renovations as a part of the restaurant’s expansion plan. A publicist for Il Canale said that the restaurant is looking to complete the renovations by the end of the year.

A new Cajun-style restaurant, Yummi Crawfish will open at 1529 Wisconsin Ave., NW, as it takes over the former Puro Café. The restaurant will serve up a great variety of seafood dishes, including lobsters, crab legs, mussels, shrimp and raw oysters. The opening date is yet to be determined, stay tuned for more updates.

Georgetowner • July 16, 2014

In honor of our 60th year of publication, The Georgetowner has launched its own annual listing of top spots to drink and dine. Be sure to stop in at any of the following establishments you have yet to try, and return soon to your favorites. Herewith, a baker’s dozen of the true gems of Georgetown, this year’s Georgies:

Baked & Wired – Home of the Tessita, a cupcake inspired by the owner’s daughter.

Bourbon Steak – Where you can sip a Donga, a tiki-tail blending grapefruit, cinnamon and lime.

Crackle Bar – Upstairs and upscale from Tackle Box’s casual seafood scene.

Café Tu-O-Tu – Walk back into a gorgeous sunroom right next to the Four Seasons (Is that Brad Pitt I spy?).

El Centro D.F. – For house-infused tequila, including our favorite: pineapple and serrano.

The Four Seasons – For the most expensive brunch in the city and access to George Washington’s whiskey.

Lady Camilla – The only quaint tea shop in the District.

Macaron Bee – Where all the macarons are gluten-free.

Malmaison – One of the few places to get a real Champagne cocktail (ask for Alex).

Martin’s Tavern – The oldest family run restaurant in Washington.

The Observatory bar at the Graham – Where you can watch the stars, shooting and otherwise.

The Rye Bar – Yes, that is hand-shaved ice in your cocktail glass.

Thunder Burger Bar – Don’t eat beef? No problem! Choose a veal, elk or boar burger. [gallery ids="101807,139926,139927,139920" nav="thumbs"]

Georgetowner •

Clyde’s Restaurant Group has tapped Samuel Kim as the new executive chef for its landmark 1789 Restaurant at 1226 36th St., NW. He returns to Georgetown after cooking in some of the most high-profile restaurants in New York City. Previous 1789 chef Anthony Lombardo has taken the helm at the Hamilton, also owned by Clyde’s.

Kim’s previous job was as executive sous chef at Colicchio and Sons, a position he held since October 2011. Colicchio and Sons earned the 2013 Trip Advisor award for “Top Restaurant in the USA” and “Number Two in the World.” His new appointment at 1789 Restaurant brings him full circle as he began his culinary career in 2004, when he convinced Ris Lacoste to hire him to pursue his passion for cooking.

“We are thrilled to have Samuel back with us at 1789,” said Tom Meyer, president of Clyde’s Restaurant Group. “He has a well-grounded approach to modern contemporary cooking which fits perfectly at 1789.”

After earning a degree in finance from the University of Maryland, Kim worked at an investment bank in New York. Soon, however, he decided that the culinary field was his true passion — and worked in the kitchen at 1789 Restaurant as chef de partie rotisseur. He was promoted in November 2005 to sous chef at Clyde’s at Gallery Place.

In August 2007, Kim began cooking at the Modern in New York. After three years, he joined Tom Colicchio’s Craft Restaurant Group and worked at the Chelsea restaurant, Colicchio and Sons. While in Manhattan, Kim also got a chance to cook at Per Se and Jean George.

Georgetowner •

Chef Update: Luc A. Dendievel will lead the culinary team as executive chef at härth restaurant at Hilton McLean Tysons Corner. Dendievel has worked with renowned chefs Michel Richard and Antoine Westermann. He most recently worked as executive chef at the Willard Intercontinental Hotel & Café du Parc. Kenneth Hughes was named executive chef at Poplar Springs Inn and Manor House Restaurant. He previously served as chef de cuisine at the Manor House Restaurant for former owner Executive Chef Howard Foer from 2006-2008. Most recently, Hughes was executive chef at Open Kitchen in Falls Church. Maggie Suge was named Pastry Chef at The Manor House Restaurant, after 13 years as assistant pastry chef at the Inn at Little Washington.

Just Opened: Soupergirl opened a new takeout store at 1829 M St., NW, in the former Yo-Cake location. The shop offers five $6 soups that change daily. They are not your average soup names, as they originate from the owner Sara Polon’s previous career as a stand-up comedian in New York City. The original Takoma Park location is where all the food sold at both locations is prepared. All food at Soupergirl is kosher-certified, Slow Food-certified and REAL (Responsible, Epicurean and Agricultural Leadership) certified.

Reese Gardner, known for Mighty Pint, Copperwood Tavern & Irish Public House, plans to open Orange Anchor in the former Cabanas space in Georgetown’s Washington Harbour. It’s being referred to as a nautical inspired eatery. An August opening is planned.

Quick Hits: Sushi-Keiko opens where Sushi-ko used to be on Wisconsin Avenue in Glover Park…Just down the street, Mad Fox Brewpub is opening Taproom where Mayfair & Pine used to be in Glover Park…A summer opening is planned for Secret Chopsticks, a contemporary Chinese restaurant, opening in Rosslyn’s Turnberry Towers at N. Oak Street and Ft Myer Drive…Spinfire, QSR pizza place will open at 1501 Wilson Blvd (next to Roti) in Rosslyn as well as at One Loudoun in Ashburn…Shawafel, serving QSR Lebanese food, plans to open at 1919 Wilson Blvd in the Courthouse area this fall. The original store opened on H Street, NE with a second one at Nats Park.

Bangkok Joe’s at Georgetown’s Washington Harbour is under renovation and will transform into a French-Southeast Asian restaurant, named Mama Rouge. The new restaurant will open in September, according to chef/owner Aulie Bunyarataphan and Mel Oursinsini. They also own and operate Tom Yum District across Key Bridge in Arlington as well as T.H.A.I. in Shirlington.

Openings Update: Boss Shepherd’s at 13th & E Streets, NW is slated to open July 21… Smashburger plans to open its 8th store in this market, in Gaithersburg on July 9. GRK has targeted the second week of July for its 19th Street opening…. Chuy’s is planning to open in Fairfax in late August and in Springfield in October….Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steak House is on schedule to open in CityCenterDC in early September….Del Frisco’s Grille is slated to open in Rockville’s Pike & Rose project in mid-September. Ted’s Bulletin is committed to open in Merrifield’s Mosaic District this fall.

Congratulations to Ty Neal, Mark Neal and Drew Kim of matchboxfoodgroup on winning Ernst & Young’s Entrepreneur of the Year in the Food & Beverage category for the DC metro area. They are now on goal to win the national contest.

Linda Roth is president of Linda Roth Associates, a public relations & marketing firm that specializes in the hospitality industry, providing creative connections through media relations, marketing initiatives, community outreach and special events. Reach her at: Linda@LindaRothPR.com or 703-417-2700. www.lindarothpr.com.

Natalie Koltun • July 7, 2014

Twenty-one local restaurants were honored at the 2014 Rammy Awards, June 22. The 32nd annual gala, held at Walter E. Washington Convention Center, highlighted the best restaurants in the area in categories, ranging from “formal fine dining” to “new restaurant of the year.” This year, several new categories were introduced to recognize the finest cocktail and beer programs, as well as some favorite fast bites and regional food and beverage producers.

Only members of Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington were eligible for nomination. Of more than 100 nominees, only 21 were selected to represent the local culinary industry, four of which were selected by public vote.

And the winners are…

Formal Fine Dining Restaurant of the Year: Fiola

Upscale Casual Restaurant of the Year: Ripple

Everyday Casual Restaurant of the Year: Toki Underground

New Restaurant of the Year: The Red Hen

Chef of the Year: Haidar Karoum, Doi Moi, Estadio, Proof

Rising Culinary Star of the Year: Michael Friedman, The Red Hen

Pastry Chef of the Year: Caitlin Dysart, 2941 Restaurant

Wine Program of the Year: Ripple

Cocktail Program of the Year: Jack Rose Dining Saloon

Beer Program of the Year: Birch and Barley/ChurchKey

Service Program of the Year: Blue Duck Tavern

Restaurateur of the Year: Michael Babin, Neighborhood Restaurant Group

Regional Food and Beverage Producer of the Year: Red Apron Butcher

Favorite Gathering Place of the Year: Hank’s Oyster Bar – Dupont Circle

Upscale Casual Brunch: Mintwood Place

Everyday Casual Brunch: Pearl Dive Oyster Palace

Favorite Fast Bites: Amsterdam Falafelshop

Allied Member of the Year: ProFish Ltd.

Employee of the Year: Stelios Alexandris, 1789 Restaurant

Manager of the Year: Boo Young Kim, District Commons

Duke Zeibert Capital Achievement Award: Lynne Breaux
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Shari Sheffield • July 2, 2014

Those of us looking for yet another excuse to celebrate independence will round out our July holiday revelry by observing France’s Independence Day equivalent, La Fête Nationale – aka, in the U.S., Bastille Day – on July 14.

The French among us (and the French at heart) look forward to enjoying some French food and wines to celebrate the storming of the Bastille in 1789 on that day.

In France, there will be firemen’s balls, parties and picnics at Versailles. And, of course, those parties and picnics will include wine. Here are some suggestions to help you enjoy your own celebration of French freedom this month – right on our own true-blue U.S. soil – with wine.

Drink Bubbles

Many Frenchmen and Frenchwomen celebrate Bastille Day with red wine. But Washingtonians usually prefer something lighter in the middle of July. Any occasion instantly becomes a celebration when a little sparkling wine is served. Audrey Hepburn said, “Paris is always a good idea” – and so is something bubbly!

You can never go wrong with a bottle of true Champagne from France, like a bottle of Bollinger. If you want to take your celebrating to a higher level, go for a bottle of traditional vintage French bubbles like Bollinger Grande Année 2004. Bollinger always gets high marks from wine raters. (Most of the big Champagne houses usually do because of the high standards of quality and consistency.) Bollinger’s 2004 vintage doesn’t disappoint.

But if your celebrating gets a little out of hand – and someone decides he or she wants to celebrate the storming by shaking up the bottle and spraying it at your party guests like they have won the Tour de France – you might want to encourage use of a non-vintage bottle, one that costs less than Grande Année 2004 at $130.

If you want to try a French sparkling wine that is just as festive and delicious, as well as a little different, try Lucien Albrecht Rose Cremant d’Alsace Non-Vintage. The coral/light pink/salmon color will entice you. It’s made of 100% Pinot Noir, after all. But it is bursting with refreshing strawberry and red plum flavors.

I opened of bottle of it about two weeks ago and couldn’t finish it, so I put a stopper on it and put it in the refrigerator. Two weeks later, I remembered it and pulled it out for a taste, just knowing that it had since gone flat. Normally, Champagnes and sparkling wine turn flat after several days, even with a Champagne saver stopper on the neck. However, this bottle still had fizz and finesse – not sparkling like the day it was opened, but a pleasantly surprising amount. Longevity is a definite plus for a sparkling wine.

Go for Bordeaux…But Bordeaux Blanc

The Pessac-Léognan region produces some of the best dry white Bordeaux. Most whites of the region contain 70% Sauvignon Blanc, expressing a range of floral and perfume aromas and honey, citrus, lemon, grapefruit, mineral and spice flavors. The best white wines from the region can age for decades. Try Château de Fieuzal Blanc 2004, 2012 or 2013.

Party with Beaujolais…But Not Nouveau This Time, Please

Do you still want a red wine to toast independence here and in France, but even the thought of something heavy on the palate when it’s 90 degrees outside makes you sweat? Then try a traditional Beaujolais. Made from the thin-skinned Gamay grape, Beaujolais has the flavor profile of a red wine, with its red-berry fruit flavors, without the tannin or the heaviness of heartier reds.

I always think of Beaujolais as a teenager. The wines, like the kids, show some signs of maturing but don’t take themselves too seriously. They are great picnic, BBQ or outdoor party wines. The region is best known to Americans for Beaujolais Nouveau, but you will find more complexity and sophistication venturing beyond the fruity, banal Nouveau.

Producing wines since 1859, the House of Louis Jadot is almost as old as the French Revolution. The Morgon Ch. des Jacques 2011 shows promise for easy drinking up through 2015. And at approximately $19, you can stock up for your next year’s celebration. Tip: Get hold of some 2009 while you’re at it if you like this style of wine.

*Shari Sheffield is a wine, food and lifestyle writer as well as a Wine Educator and speaker. She can be reached at shari@sharisheffield.com or on her website: www.sharisheffield.com*

Georgetowner •

GOOOOAAALL!!!!! It strikes once every four years – World Cup fever.

People from every corner of the world (even America) are glued to their television sets watching soccer (or football everywhere else in the world). Sports fans gather at parties or bars for festive celebrations, employees call in sick and in many countries workers get the day off to watch their teams compete.

This year’s Cup has already proven to be an exciting one, with surprising upsets and underdog victories in the first round. What also makes the 2014 World Cup special is that it is being held in what is arguably the most football-crazed nation in the world: Brazil.

I witnessed the madness in Brazil 12 years ago, the last time they took the World Cup crown. I was staying in an eco-resort, deep in the Amazon. Even in the very heart of the jungle, we would pass by fishermen’s shacks with Brazil banners proudly displayed.

For the semi-final match, the resort basically shut down except for three televisions outside, where everyone gathered to watch the game. Since the match was being played in Japan, it started around sunrise. This early-morning start had no impact on the Brazilians’ party spirit. They gathered with gusto and served free glasses of cachaça (yes, I did imbibe at 6 a.m.).

Four days later, the scenario repeated itself, except I was overnighting in Manaus, the capital city of the northern state of Amazonas, before my flight back to the States. When Brazil knocked off Germany for the championship, the entire city erupted into one big party. The streets were filled with revelers and this continued all day and night. Luckily (or maybe unluckily) for me, the airport was still open and I returned to the States, where Brazil’s triumph barely merited a mention.

Almost as closely associated with Brazil as soccer is cachaça, a Brazilian spirit made from sugarcane. While most rum is produced by distilling molasses, a byproduct of refining cane into sugar, cachaça is forged from fermented cane juice. One and a half billion liters of cachaça are consumed annually in Brazil. The liquor has a fiery flavor tempered with a hint of sugary sweetness.

The most popular way to enjoy cachaça is the caipirinha, considered the national drink of Brazil. The cocktail is a combination of muddled lime, sugar and cachaça served over ice.

Cachaça was first consumed in the mid-1500s by slaves on sugar cane plantations in the country’s northeast. The name caipirinha is derived from the Portuguese word caipira, which refers to someone from the countryside, loosely meaning hick or country bumpkin. This is coupled to the -inha suffix, a term of endearment denoting little or small (as in the nicknames of famous footballers Paulinho and Ronaldinho).

Similar to its Cuban cousin the mojito, the caipirinha is created from muddled limes, making for a fresh and citrusy drink. There are two keys to the traditional Brazilian recipe: one, using superfine sugar, which dissolves much better than regular sugar; and two, muddling the sugar granules with the lime wedges, so that the oils are extracted from the lime zest, enhancing the aroma and flavor.

The result is a super-refreshing elixir, perfect for a hot afternoon of watching football. No matter what team you support, give a nod to the hosts of this year’s tournament with a caipirinha toast.

The Caipirinha

Ingredients

2 ounces cachaça

.75 ounces fresh lime juice

1 teaspoon superfine sugar

1 peeled lime (quartered)

Directions

First, peel the skin of a lime, cut the flesh into eighths and muddle in a mixing glass with simple syrup. Add the rest of the ingredients with ice and shake vigorously. Dump with shaken ice into a glass and serve. Sprinkle with a dash of sugar on top and garnish with a lime wedge.

Robert Devaney • June 30, 2014

Mike Copperthite, descendent of the founders of the Connecticut-Copperthite Pie Company, drove a restored 1914 Model T pie delivery truck into Georgetown from the Virginia suburbs June 22.

Cooperthite has revived the family’s pie business over the past few years and is selling pies in different locations or just donating them to various charitable events. He drove his pie truck — which caught everyone’s attention — around town from M Street and to Q Street and R Street.

Founded in 1888, the Connecticut-Copperthite Pie Company had locations in Georgetown and Capitol Hill. It not only was the biggest pie bakery in D.C. but was one of the biggest companies in D.C.

The Connecticut-Copperthite Pie Delivery Truck was restored a few months ago and is one of only 119 made in 1914 and was sold by the Ford Motor Company to the Connecticut-Copperthite Pie Company 100 years ago.

“Though intact and complete, she was in need of loving attention,” according to Copperthite. “The Henry Ford Museum folks gave a lending hand to Gary Cooper, a master craftsman, and the Model T Club of Southern Nevada in the restoration of Serial No.317233. Cooper and his team spent the last year putting her right.”

The story of the restoration of the pie truck will be told in July on the History Channel’s “Counting Cars.”

The truck will serve at special events, says Copperthite, “before heading to the Henry Ford Museum and the Model T National Museum to be exhibited before she goes into the Smithsonian Institution.”

Robert Devaney • June 27, 2014

Just when things were humming along, executive chef Jakob Esko at the Washington Capella Hotel has announced that he is leaving the hotel July 1.

One should not surprised, however, as Esko — who is from Sweden and had his first job in Zurich — has been something of a globe-trotting chef. The company said Esko’s decision to depart was a personal one.

Esko runs the Capella’s Grill Room and Rye Bar. He has been at the Georgtown hotel — which made its debut in March 2013– about one-and-a-half years. Esko has worked at other Capella properties in Singapore, Mexico and Ireland. He also worked for the Ritz-Carlton in Barcelona between 2005 and 2008, where both of his sons were born. His wife Jodi is from Silver Spring, Md., and the couple met in Washington in 1994.

The 49-room boutique hotel on 31st Street next to the C&O Canal and its Grill Room and Rye Bar are a hit with visitors and neighbors alike. It regularly hosts culinary events with the community. Founded by former Ritz Carlton COO Horst Schulze, the company has other Capella hotels and resorts in Singapore, Dusseldorf, Ixtapa and Cabo San Lucas. The company has plans for hotel openings in such places as Bangkok and Russia.