Across the Cutting Board with Ris: Oatmeal

May 3, 2012

The history of oatmeal is a modest and uneventful affair. It was never worth its weight in gold, like salt. It was never fabled to have mystic healing properties, like beetroot or ginger. The bible does not allude to it, as with bread and fish. In fact, in Greek and Roman times, oats were considered a diseased form of wheat. Until the late 19th century, they were nothing more than economic sustenance for northern European peasants and animal feed.

But like a man whose steady greatness slowly reveals itself in his maturity, oatmeal emerges as a sort of existential hero: hearty, decent and strong. Its status has grown over time, and today it frequents breakfast tables throughout the world, appreciated for its high fiber, iron and protein content, its ability to fight heart disease and its unrivaled wholesomeness

“It’s on the list of top five foods to fight heart disease,” says chef and restaurateur Ris Lacoste. “Oats are the definition of ‘whole food’ — there’s nothing in it but whole grain. And that’s what wholesome is: good for your heart, body and soul.”

One reason it’s so satisfying is that it keeps you full, she says. “In the crazy world that we live in, it’s important to have a meal in the morning that keeps you satisfied and steady and warms you so entirely.” For all people who lead fast-paced lives, it is very important to feed your system with something healthful and substantial each day.

“I was sent off to school every day in the winter with a bowl of warm oatmeal in me,” says Ris. “I continue that practice to this day, along with a cup or two of good coffee. It energizes me, fills me up and warms my soul.”

“As a chef, I also end up tasting and consuming more fat in a given day than most people,” she continues. “It just comes with the territory: I have to do a lot of tasting on the job. So the cholesterol-reducing properties in oatmeal is a huge bonus.”

Oats are a grass that gradually came under cultivation at the same time as wheat and barley. They require a good deal of moisture to grow and do best in wet climates. Once they take root, they grow like weeds. The whole grain that oatmeal comes from is called a groat, the inner portion of the oat kernel. Steel-cut oats, also known as coarse-cut oats, are made by cutting up groats into two or three pieces.

By contrast, your standard rolled oats are whole kernels of groats that are steamed to make them soft and malleable, then pressed between rollers to make them thin and quick to reabsorb water during cooking.

Ris prefers steal-cut oats for their nutty aromas, fabulous texture and earthy, well-rounded flavors. Not that there is anything wrong with rolled oats, Ris says. “But needless to say, the less you have to process a natural ingredient, the better it will taste and the more nutrition it will hold onto. That’s why steel-cut oats have more flavor, as well as more antioxidant properties — they’re just that much less processed, and that much closer to a raw, natural oat seed.”

The only deterrent of steel-cut oats might be their longer cooking time. “But it’s absolutely worth the wait,” says Ris. But if you don’t have the time, there’s an easy option. “Just make a big batch on Sunday night and reheat a little each morning, or eat them cold as a snack. Package them with blueberries and almonds to take with you. They will hold up in the refrigerator for several days. When heated up on the stovetop for a couple minutes, you’ll never know the difference.”

“But another reason to talk about oats — other than their economy and nutrition — is that they are delicious!” Ris says. “That smooth, thick consistency is so pleasantly rich and heartwarming. They are compatible with an array of flavors. You can add almost anything to them and they will taste great, leaving you with not a reason in the world to be bored with breakfast.”

In the summer months, Ris recommends adding ripe melons and berries. “The bright sweetness of melons and the juicy, sweet depth of berries both complement the nutty, earthy flavors of oatmeal wonderfully,” she says.

And in the winter, where we find ourselves now, oatmeal shines. It is perhaps the perfect dish to help face the cold world each morning. Just add cooked apples, raisins and nuts. “And don’t forget a pinch of maple syrup or dash of brown sugar,” Ris adds.

Some other unique pairings for oatmeal include:

Milk and brown sugar and buttered oatmeal toast for dipping.

Honey and figs.

Pomegranate molasses and toasted walnuts. If the pomegranate is too tart, a dash of cane sugar will balance it out.

Stirring in a bit of coconut milk and top with toasted coconut, fresh ripe mango and a sprinkle of sugar (if using unsweetened coconut milk).

If you’re like the author, you also want your first meal of the day to be a bit of a health bomb. My default oatmeal toppings are slivered raw almonds (get them in the baking section), flax seed for omega 3, a bit of honey and the smallest crack of black pepper, which gives it the faintest zing.

“It’s also worth noting,” says Ris, “that no matter how you make your oats, a healthy pinch of salt is a must. When you think about the salt in cereal, eggs, bread and other breakfast staples, it’s perfectly natural. Salt brings out the flavor of anything, and that goes for oatmeal, too.”

Of course, there is a lot more to do with oats than just whip up oatmeal. They are a surprisingly versatile ingredient. As an obvious example that everyone loves, there are oatmeal cookies. (By the way, if you haven’t had a Kayak Cookies Salty Oats cookie at Teaism, you don’t know what you’re missing.) Most granola bars also have an oatmeal base.

“And just as with cookie dough,” says Ris, “you can add rolled oats to waffle or pancake batter, muffins—basically any baked goods. Oats have a softening effect by nature because they absorb and hold the moisture so well. Added to bread dough, they bring a nice, soft crumble, an ethereal sweetness and a bit of chew.”

And they have the same tenderizing effects with meats and savory items when used as a filler or binder. They help retain the juices in the meat and thereby keep things moist. In Ireland and Scotland, oats were used as filler for many dishes—think haggis, for instance. And this was before its health benefits were known. It was just used to fill more mouths, multiply and extend the meal, like rice or bread. And the Scottish are certainly known for being hearty and strong — this may be a reason why.

Adding oats as a binder in meats may require different levels of cooking and doneness, which is usually only perfected through experimentation and preference. “I prefer the texture oatmeal gives to a recipe,” says Ris. “Use oatmeal to bind meatballs or veggie burgers. It’s a whole grain that works in place of processed flour, bread or crackers. They are a much smarter, healthier and tastier option. But do remember that they absorb moisture during cooking so you may need to adjust your recipes.”

Ris will state here that one of the secrets of her great Monday meatloaf special is using oatmeal as a binder. “It’s how my mother made it,” she smiles.

Oatmeal bread is also one of her favorite sandwich breads. Joan Nathan, a friend and fellow chef, makes an oatmeal loaf with fig, anise and walnuts, which is a wonderful compliment to Ris’s chicken salad. It accents the apricots and grapes in the salad perfectly. Make them both, and see how good “whole food” can be.

For more from Joan Nathan, including her cookbook “Quiches, Kugels, and Couscous: My Search for Jewish Cooking in France,” from which this recipe is excerpted, visit JoanNathan.com.

Joan Nathan’s Oatmeal Bread with Fig, Anise and Walnuts
Yields 2 loaves of bread. For a single loaf, cut ingredient proportions by half.

2 tbsp. active dry yeast
½ cup honey
2 cups old-fashioned rolled oats
1 cup steel-cut oats
1 cup toasted wheat germ
1 tbsp. kosher salt
2 tsp. anise seeds
1 cup roughly chopped walnuts
1 cup diced dried figs
2 cups whole-wheat flour
4 cups all-purpose flour, plus more as needed

Dissolve the yeast in 3 cups lukewarm water in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a dough hook. Once it is dissolved, turn the mixer on low and slowly add the honey, rolled oats, steel-cut oats, wheat germ, salt, anise seeds, walnuts and dried figs. Stir in the whole-wheat flour and 3½ cups of the all-purpose flour and knead.

Place in a large greased bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let rise for 1 hour, or until it is doubled in volume. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Grease a baking sheet, or line it with parchment paper.

Punch down the dough and turn it out onto a lightly floured surface. Divide it in half and form two round loaves. Place them on the baking sheet and make a few long, shallow gashes across each of the loaves. Let rise another half hour.

Bake for 40 minutes, or until the loaves sound hollow when tapped. Allow to cool before slicing.

Ris’s Chicken Salad Sandwich

Mix together:
3 cups fresh roasted chicken meat
1 cup cooked white or brown rice, I prefer Calasparra rice
½ cup red grapes, cut in half
¼ cup diced celery
¼ cup diced red onion
¼ cup diced dried apricots
¼ – ½ cup chopped toasted walnuts
A few Tbsp. dressing made with mayonnaise, sherry vinegar, a dash of walnut oil, honey and chopped fresh sage. Enough to bind the salad together.

Mix together. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve on fresh or toasted oatmeal bread, dressed with some of the mayonnaise and a healthy leaf of lettuce.

Across the Cutting Board with Ris: The Seeds of Inspiration


On the surface, the seasonal lull between winter and spring doesn’t offer much in the way of culinary inspiration. Walking through the farmers markets, shallow-stocked stalls display the dregs of winter’s harvest like the end of a liquidation sale — dried up apples, sprouted, weak garlic, some potatoes and shriveled onions, and maybe a few premature displays of under-ripe berries. With the exception of baby greens, there isn’t a whole lot to be had from our local farms right now. We’re a few weeks off from spring’s bounty, and back in the days of old we would be pulling our pickles, jams, preserves and dry goods from the cellar and waiting for the first shoots of asparagus to rise up and welcome our palettes into the new season.

“We’re all so excited for spring,” says chef and restaurateur Ris Lacoste, “but we’re not going to see asparagus or strawberries until mid-April. I spoke to farmers at the market just last week and they said they had almost nothing right now. We have to just sit and wait. It’s a tough time of year for foodies.”

However, what the farmers are doing right now is planting. And given that it has been such a mild year for rain, says Ris, the soil is in great shape around here. This time last year, it had been such a wet winter that the land was waterlogged, rendering fruits and vegetables quick to rot on the vine. This year there has been a comfortable amount of rain, perfect for the spring harvest. Plants will likely be sprouting in abundance.

For now, though, farmers are focused on the seed. “And if it’s good enough for the farmers,” says Ris, “it’s good enough for me.”

On top of being the springboard of all vegetal life, seeds also carry their own nutritional and culinary merit. It is also worth noting that we don’t want to talk about seeds without talking about nuts. They carry many of the same properties, are dealt with similarly in the kitchen, and are often mistaken for one another. For instance, almonds and Brazil nuts, widely attributed to the nut community, are in fact seeds.

While nuts and seeds are high in fat, they are natural, straight-from-the-source fats with their healthful properties intact, in contrast to many of the processed fats that work their way into our diets today. Many are good sources of vitamins E and B2, and are rich in protein, folate, fiber and essential minerals such as magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, copper and selenium.

As cooking goes, you can take seeds and nuts in any number of directions. Toast them and the flavors becomes more pronounced. Chop or crush them and you have a crunchy textural element to play with. Mill it into a flourlike meal and they can be used to add flavor and moisture to baked goods or to deliciously thicken a pureed soup. Furthermore, they are a delicious, healthful and filling snack alternative to processed foods like chips and crackers. “A handful of marcona almonds with a cup of coffee is one of the great pleasures in life for me,” says Ris. “As a midmorning or afternoon snack, it’s hard to beat.”

Here are some useful kitchen tricks with some of our favorite seeds and nuts:

Almonds are protein-rich and naturally a bit on the sweet side. They are amazingly versatile and work seamlessly with both sweet and savory dishes. You can buy them slivered in the baking section, toast them and add them to anything. Sprinkle them on salad, cereal or oatmeal (see our oatmeal column at www.Georgetowner.com for more on that). Pile them over desserts and fruit salad. You can use them as a crust for fish and white meat (almond-crusted salmon, tilapia or chicken are all winners). They are great in or on muffins and mixed into cookie dough. If you have an ice-cream maker, throw a handful into your next batch of vanilla or honey ice-cream. You’ll be amazed.

Brazil nuts are the giants of the nut world, with a protein, calcium and omega-3 profile to match their size. They’re also up there in fat content, alongside pecans and macadamias, with almost 70-percent fat and a creamy flesh that lends itself nicely to pesto — and they’re a cheaper alternative to pine nuts. If you really want to surprise and impress your guests, grate them with a microplane for a wonderfully light parmesan-like garnish on pastas or salads. You can even mix it in with a homemade salad dressing.

A moderate sprinkling of flaxseeds on top of cereal, grains or oatmeal is a nice, subtly smoky touch and can help aid digestion. Sneak them into muffins or scones. Ground flaxseeds blended with water are a common substitute for egg whites in baking.

The gorgeous, flat green Pumpkin seed, a staple in Ris’s kitchen, is a hallmark ingredient in Mexican cuisine. Also called pepitas, they lend themselves nicely to breads, soups and salads. Ground up with spices, they provide subtle seasoning and can even serve as a base for vinaigrettes. Sikil Pak, a pumpkin seed dip, is made from toasted pepitas pureed with garlic, habanero and tomato.

Walnuts are excellent in stuffings, salads, granola, pancakes, cookies and breads (they are also the author’s favorite cereal topping—just crush them up and sprinkle on your next bowl). Raw walnuts were also found to have twice as many antioxidants as other nuts.

Fennel seeds and cumin seeds are the secret weapon of many of Ris’s favorite savory dishes. They add subtle undertones to meats and fish when used in marinades, and as a base aromatic for soups and stews it can take your creations to the next level, adding unprecedented depth of flavor. To really get their flavors out, toast them dry on a hot skillet before you add your oil and vegetables.

Of course, seeds like sesame and poppy are great to crust breads with — like, for instance, bagels. But did you know that mustard seed and celery seed are among the key ingredients to the housemade pickles at Ris? (The recipe is available at www.Georgetowner.com in our pickling column from last year.)

Toasting seeds and nuts:

Flatter nuts and seeds are better toasted in a skillet — pine nuts, sesame seeds and those that have been chopped. Rounder types, such as walnuts or hazelnuts, go in the oven so heat can wrap all the way around them.

In a skillet: Place nuts or seeds in a single layer in a large, heavy skillet over medium heat. Toss them around every minute or so until fragrant and toasty—about five minutes, depending on the type of seed. Keep a very watchful eye on them, as they go from light to burnt in no time flat.

In the oven or toaster oven: Preheat to 350 degrees. Place the nuts on a rimmed baking sheet so they don’t roll off and toast until they start to darken and get fragrant. Toasting times vary depending on the seed, but this usually takes just a few minutes. They tend to brown faster toward the edge of the baking sheet, so stir them or give the pan a shake once or twice during baking.

Have specific cooking questions or nutty inquiries? Email Ari@Georgetowner.com, and he will consult with the chef and get back to you. [gallery ids="100589,100590" nav="thumbs"]

The Latest DishMay 2, 2012

May 2, 2012

**Hank?s Oyster Bar** Chef/owner, **Jamie Leeds**, and mixologist **Gina Chersevani** are working together again, but this time as partners. They plan to open a new Hank?s Oyster Bar in Eastern Market, where Ba Bay used to be. Gina plans to hand-carve ice from giant blocks. In addition to the long bar, there will be an additional 40 seats plus a small outdoor patio. In addition to Gina?s 18-22 cocktails on her nautically-themed drink list, she also plans to create her own oyster stout. Eventually, Gina?s drinks will be offered at Hank?s in Dupont Circle and Alexandria. They hope to open this June.

**Logan Circle Update: Aaron Gordon**, owner/operator of DC?s **Tangysweet**, **Red Velvet Cupcakery** and Clarendon?s **Rabbit Salad & Grille** is taking over the Logan Circle space on 14th Street where ACKC used to be. He plans to offer breakfast, and wants to open in early August.

**More on 14th Street: Mark Kuller**, owner of **Proof and Estadio**, plans to open a Southeast Asian-inspired restaurant on 14th Street in Logan Circle. Chef **Haidar Karoum** will be at the helm of this new concept. They plan to open in late fall or early winter.

Much more on 14th Street: **M Caf? & Bar**, formerly in Chevy Chase, will reopen on 14th Street in Logan Circle in September. It?s owned by retail developer **Iraklis Karabassis**, who also operates **Sette Osteria** and who co-founded **Cafe Milano**. The 90-seat space will have a bar/lounge area, outdoor terrace, and two private dining rooms. Chef **Nico Amroune** will remain as executive chef.

**Barcelona Wine Bar & Restaurant** is moving into the space formerly occupied by BodySmith gym, which is moving down the street at the end of the year and more than doubling its space. The Connecticut-based **Barcelona Wine Bar & Restaurant** chain plans to open before end of 2012.

**Columbia Heights Update**: Architect **Eric Gronning**, who designed **Jack Rose, Marvin, Cork**, and **Pizzeria Paradiso**, and his wife **Lori Robertson**, decided to jump in and open their own restaurant in their own neighborhood. **Maple**, on 11th Street in Columbia Heights, is a 38-seat European-style restaurant and bar. Tiger maple wood was used to construct the 20-foot bar, hence the name. Eric also built the bar chairs and is working on his own lighting fixtures. The chef is Eric?s uncle, **Felix Gonzales**, who pre?viously worked at a restaurant in Baltimore?s Little Italy. In the spirit of neighborly support, the owners of Cork helped create the wine list. Maple is the latest in a blossoming restaurant row. The owner of **Tryst, Open City**, and **The Diner** is opening a bar/diner/coffeehouse across the street.

**Kangaroo Boxing Club**, a barbecue joint, will open where **Acuario** used to be on 11th Street, brought to you by **PORC** food truck founders **Josh Saltzman, Trent Allen** and **Chris Powers** and **Solly?s Tavern** co-owner Peyton Sherwood. The name dates back to a college drinking bet about being able to beat a kangaroo in a boxing match. The 39-seat spot will serve an expanded menu from the food truck. Peyton will also create a craft-cocktail list along with about 10 beers. It is slated to open this summer.

**Pleasant Pops** food truck owners **Roger Horowitz** and **Brian Sykora** plan to open a market and cafe at 18th and Florida this summer. Pleasant Pops used Kickstarter to crowdsource (aka raise) $20,000 for the store. It surpassed that goal with more than 300 donors. The farmhouse chic d?cor includes old barn wood and farmhouse tools. It will sell four rotating seasonal pop flavors plus eight standards. There will also be sandwiches, salads, cheeses, milk, eggs, and jams from the same farmers who provide Pleasant Pops with the fruits they use to make their pops.

**Chef & GM Update: Bridget Kelly** has been named the new general manager for **Del Frisco?s Grille**, slated to opening July at 1201 Pennsylvania Ave, NW. She hails from Massachusetts where she was GM for sev?eral Burtons Grill restaurants in Boston and Burlington, MA. **Rob Klink** was named exec?utive chef for Del Frisco?s Grille. Previously he was executive chef for **Turnabout Grill** in Owings Mills, MD, but he?s better known around here as former executive chef for **Oceanaire Seafood Room** in downtown DC. **BlackSalt Fish Market & Restaurant** appointed **Thomas Leonard** as Executive Chef. **Jon Mathieson** has become execu?tive chef for **BLT Steak**; previously he was at **Michel at The Ritz-Carlton**, Tysons Corner. He also worked at **Inox** and 2941, also in Northern Virginia.

**Renovations: Jose Andres?** first **Jaleo** in Penn Quarter has reopened after extensive renovations. Spanish designer **Juli Capella** and architect **Eric Gronning** have given it a more whimsical look. The menu is also new with some unusual offerings?. **K Street Lounge** is renovating and rebranding as **Capitale**, a nightclub with no food service inside. Artist **Maggie O?Neill**, who designed **Sax, Lincoln,** and **Irish Whiskey Public House**, is revamping the space, which will close for renovations during the second week of May and reopen in July.

**More renovations and rebirth: ** **The North Dakota Farmers Union and Farmers Restaurant Group** announced plans to open **Farmers, Fishers & Bakers** at their Georgetown waterfront space at Washington Harbor in late fall 2012. The totally new res?taurant will replace **Farmer & Fishers**, which was destroyed a year ago in the flood along the Potomac River waterfront. It will join the long-awaited reopening of **Tony & Joe?s** and **Nick?s Riverside Grille**, also shut down by the flood. They plan to open this month.

**Artsy Renovations**: As of May 1, the **Garden Caf?** inside the National Gallery of Art will be re-dubbed **Garden Caf? Catalonia** and feature a Catalan menu created by **Jose Andres** to complement the museum?s forthcoming **Joan Mir?** exhibit. Andr?s and his **ThinkFoodGroup** collaborated with the **National Gallery of Art** in 2009 for the **Garden Caf? Espana**. And also in 2011 when **Caf? Atlantico** transformed into **America Eats Tavern** as part of a partnership with National Archives? exhibit, What?s Cooking, Uncle Sam? Run by **Restaurant Associates**, the cafe will remain open through mid-Sep?tember. It replaces the **Garden Caf? Italia**, which has been running for the past year with a menu courtesy of **Fabio Trabocchi**.

Renovations Correction: Shelly?s Back Room on F Street, NW did recently open its outdoor patio, Shelly?s Front Porch, The description of the additional 1000 sq ft and 50+ seats in April?s column referred to the expansion done last year, not to Shelly?s Front Porch.

Longtime friends and Local 16 owner **Aman Ayoubi** and **Utopia Bar & Grill** owner **Jamal Sahri** are opening a subterranean Brazilian lounge on U Street., NW. Located below Lost Society and Subway, it will focus on live music and performing art from Brazil. The plan is to have it open before the begin?ning of summer.

**Downtown DC Update**: Thai restaurateur **Oy Changsila** is opening **Sala Thai**, a fast casual spin-off of his Sala Thai restaurants. It will open in the space formerly occupied by **Maoz** on M Street in downtown DC. It will focus on Thai street food. They plan to be open by June. **Taylor Gourmet** is planning a July opening for the downtown crowd on 19th Street, NW. It will take over the space where **Mixt Greens** was. They will also offer late night and breakfast hoagies on the weekends. They are collaborating with **Grupo 7** on a crowd-sourced mural. They?re reaching out to customers via Facebook and Twitter to find 10-15 local artists who will design sections of the mural. More hoagie shops in Merrifield, VA and another DC location are also in the works along with the first** Taylor Charles Steak & Ice** on H Street.

**Tom Power**, chef/owner of **Corduroy**, who bought the building adjacent to his **Shaw** restaurant on 9th Street for a second restau?rant slated to be called **Velour**, has changed the name and concept. The new name is **Herringbone** and the concept will be sim?pler and more casual than Corduroy, offering lobster rolls rather than lobster carpaccio. A summer opening is planned.

***Linda Roth Conte is president of Linda Roth Associates, Inc (LRA) specializing in making creative connections through media relations, marketing initiatives, community outreach and special events for the hospitality industry. Contact Linda at 703-417-2700 or linda@lindarothpr.com or visit her web site at www.lindarothpr.com***

Tony and Joe’s to Reopen in May

April 5, 2012

Last April, the Washington Harbour Complex at the Georgetown waterfront was flooded, causing severe damage to Tony & Joe’s Seafood Place among other local establishments. The outside bar and patio have since been open with a limited menu from an outdoor kitchen, while the inside dining room and bar have been closed for renovation. But there is good news on the horizon. ”The inside restaurant will reopen for the public in early May 2012,” owner Greg Casten said.

However, there is still some work to be done with the storefront windows. ”Everything will hopefully be completed in mid-June or early July. So, any grand opening celebrations will probably be in July,” Casten said. When the restaurant reopens, there will also be a new chef on board: David Stein. ”He’s the perfect fit for us, as he really knows seafood and the Chesapeake Bay area,” Casten said. Stein has worked as a chef in many other places, most recently at Bistro St. Michael in Maryland. ”We’re working on some menu changes for the opening. I have some great ideas for that,” Stein said. He’s currently happy cooking from the outdoor kitchen, but he also looks forward to getting started in the new kitchen. ”I’ve been here for two and a half months now, and it’s great out here. The staff here is great, they have a rare loyalty to the place that I haven’t seen in any other restaurant,” Stein said. Mark Ramirez, who’s working alongside Stein in the outdoor kitchen, has worked at Tony and Joe’s for 20 years.

The lower fountain area by the waterfront is also under renovation. The new fountain will create a water show that changes from day to night during the warmer months. In the winter the fountain will be replaced by an ice skating rink. ”The new fountain will probably be completed by the end of the summer,” said Jennifer DeMeo from MRP Realtors. [gallery ids="100707,100708,100709" nav="thumbs"]

The Latest DishApril 4, 2012

April 4, 2012

Shophouse Southeast Asian Kitchen is slated to open in the Georgetown space formerly occupied by Furin’s at 2805 M St., NW. It will be the second location (Dupont Circle was first) from Steve Ells, who also brought us **Chipotle.** Always secretive, this store will open sometime in 2012.

It?s a two-fer. Mike Isabella plans to open **Kapnos,** a Greek restaurant and **G,** an Italian operation, both in a big space at 2201 14th Street, NW. Kapnos is Greek for ?smoke? (think whole spit-roasted animals) and G is, well, little sister to Graffiato. Both are slated to open sometime next year.

Owners Au Dang and brother Di, along with Michael Jones, a former **J Paul?s** manager, plan to open **Chasin? Tails,** a silverware-optional crab shack open in Falls Church where **Bear Rock Caf?** used to be. Cajun seafood and traditional seafood will be offered, along with drinks and entertainment. The plan is to be open by beginning of April.

**Nando?s Peri-Peri** loves the DC market and has targeted more locations: Pentagon Row to open in the beginning of June; King Street in Old Town, Alexandria and Waugh Chapel area of Anne Arundel County by end of 2012. They currently have locations in Penn Quarter, Gaithersburg, Bethesda Row, Silver Spring and National Harbor.

**Eastern Market** is looking forward to a new restaurant from some familiar DC restaurant talent. Former **Komi** cook and pastry chef **Johnny Spero, Toki Underground** chef **Erik Bruner-Yang** and **Acqua al 2** chef **Ari Gejdenson** are the owners of **Suna.** Johnny takes the lead in the kitchen. Suna?s menu will be based on sustainability, supporting local farms, and what is available regionally and by season. Suna means ?moss? in Lativian, and Johnny Spero is of Latvian descent. The plan is to open by year?s end.

Chef Update: At **Rasika West End, Vikram Sunderam** will be in charge of both restaurants, but chef de cuisine **Manish Tyagi** will oversee the day-to-day operations. Christopher Morris has been named Executive Chef at **BRIO Tuscan Grille** in Rockville, Maryland.? Previously, he worked as executive chef of **O?Donnell?s Sea Grill** and **Cin Cin Tratoria. Aaron McCloud** is the new chef at **Cedar** restaurant in Penn Quarter. Previously he was executive chef for Vintage Restaurant Group in Loudoun County, then chef at The Inn at Perry Cabin in St. Michaels, Md. Patrick Forest and Raina Hull, former managers at **8407 Kitchen Bar** in Silver Spring have joined forces to open **Mealey?s Table** in New Market, Md. They hired Nate Waugaman, as chef. The restaurant will seat 80 with additional seating in the lounge. Previously, Nate had been at **Addie?s** in Rockville. Nate plans to produce his own charcuterie in-house with a farm-to-table strategy. His sous chef is Ian Benites, who worked with Nate at Addie?s. It is slated to open this month. In the meantime, Mallory Buford will run the kitchen at Addie?s, as he used to for Black Restaurant Group.

A “philanthro-pub” called Cause, is planned for the Shaw neighborhood at 1926 9th St., NW in late April. Yes, it is a philanthropic-themed bar that plans to direct a percentage of profits towards charities. Cause is the brainchild of non-restaurateurs **Raj Ratwani** and **Nick Vilelle.** Their operators are **John Jarecki** and **Dave Pressley,** who run **The Light Horse** in Alexandria. They have restaurant ops chops, as between them they have helped to open 20 restaurants including Neighborhood Restaurant Group?s **Tallula, Rustico,** and **Vermillion.** Former **Queen Vic** chef **Adam Stein** heads the kitchen. The two-story space, which will also host non-profit events, will have a **worldly theme** with globes, maps, and photography from different countries.

Renovations: **Shelly?s Back Room** at 1331 F Street, NW has added an additional 1000 square feet (and 50 seats) for an outdoor patio, appropriately called ?Shelly?s Front Porch,? offering the comfort of Adirondack chairs and a limited food menu. This will be referred to as fireplace room and bourbon room?. Alain Roussel has renovated his Chevy Chase French country restaurant, **La Ferme,** to the tune of $150,000. This includes new paneling, carpet, lamp shades, window dressings, upholstery wall hangings, and paint both in the main dining room and the private party room upstairs. **Morton?s The Steakhouse** in downtown DC is slated to undergo renovations, a part of their new ownership upgrade.

**Volt** chef Bryan Voltaggio’s forthcoming DC restaurant Range, is slated to open late fall in the **Chevy Chase Pavilion** showcasing lesser-used cuts of meat including shoulders, legs, and **offal.** The cocktails will feature house-made bitters, sodas, and mixers. As is all the rage these days, there will be an **open kitchen** as well as a bakery and retail shop.

Quick Hits: **Rahama African Restaurant** recently opened in the Shaw neighborhood at 1923 9th St, NW. Ripple in Cleveland Park has a ?sister? next door, **Sugar Magnolia** offering savory and sweets including homemade ice cream sandwiches made by pastry chef **Alison Reed**, who joined Ripple in January after four years at **Cafe Saint Ex.** Chicago-based Matt Matros, owner of **Protein Bar,** has signed a lease to open a Protein Bar in Penn Quarter at Seventh & D Streets, NW. Working with Papadopoulos Properties, this promises to be the first of many in the area. **First Watch** plans to in Chantilly at Greenbriar Town Center. This will make their third (Rockville, Fairfax) in the region. They plan to open by end of 2012. Scott Harlan is chef/owner of Green Pig Bistro, slated to open in Clarendon, Va., by the time you read this. He was previously with **Inox.**

**Nick?s Riverside Grille** and **Tony & Joe?s** at Georgetown?s Washington Harbour should be up and running ? inside and outside ? by May. That?s the time it takes to re-open after a flood and everything else that goes with it.

Kimpton Hotel & Restaurant group named Brian McPherson as chef at both **Jackson 20** and **The Grille** at Morrison House in Alexandria. He takes the place of Dennis Marron, who was head chef at **Poste** restaurant at Hotel Monaco. McPherson was previously at **New Heights** and **Butterfield 9.**

**True Food Kitchen,** a healthy, Mediterranean-themed restaurant, from Scottsdale, Ariz.-based Fox Restaurant Concepts?, is scouting locations in the D.C. region. It will be their first East Coast expansion, which has four locations in Arizona and California. True Food will appeal to D.C.?s sophisticated-leaning palate and generally healthy lifestyle. It?s backed by **P.F. Chang?s.** Thank Tom Papadopoulos for bringing this to you.

Shirlington Village?s Curious Grape returns ? as more than a wine shop. Now it?s **The Curious Grape Wine, Dine & Shop.** Owner Suzanne McGrath says the food will focus on dishes that pair well with or feature wine. In addition to the restaurant, there is a cheese bar, traditional bar and private dining space.

D.C. Eatery Set for ‘Restaurant Impossible’ Makeover

March 8, 2012

Celebrity chef Robert Irvine brings his hit show ‘Restaurant Impossible’ to the still unknown restaurant in Washington, D.C., today. For those of you who haven’t seen it yet, “Restaurant: Impossible” is a reality show in which muscle-bound chef Irvine sets out to save failing restaurants across the country. Irvine, who is currently staying at the Gaylord Hotel at National Harbor, will spend two intense days with each restaurant he’s trying to rescue from going out of business. During the process he will change the food, the interior and retrain the staff, using muscle and toughness, but without spending more than $10,000.

Irvine has over 25 years of culinary experiene. He is involved in several reality shows besides “Restaurant Impossible.” He owns two restaurants and has written three cookbooks. Even being around food all day, Irvine still manages to be one of the fittest chefs in the industry. ”Maintaining a healthy diet while you are constantly surrounded by food is a major challenge for chefs everywhere,” writes Irvine on his blog (http://chefirvine.com/blog/). His best advise for staying trim while working in a kitchen includes finding the time to sit down and eat, drink water instead of soda, and to take on the phsyical tasks, such as lifting the heavy boxes when the big food delivery arrives.

With all his years of experience, Irvine uses his skills and creativity to bring an unsuccessful restaurant back into business. So far, Irvine has managed to turn around more than 30 failing restaurants. It will be exciting to see which D.C. restaurant will benefit from Irvine’s two days of tough food-love. Stay tuned.

The Latest DishMarch 7, 2012

March 7, 2012

**Roberto Donna**, one of DC?s most famous (and infamous) chefs will reign over the kitchen at **La Forchetta**, a new full service, 116-seat, family-style Italian restaurant on New Mexico Ave. NW, where **Balducci?s** used to be. Owner **Hakan Ilhan** is best known for his Pizza Autentica chain, as well as three **Caf? Cantinas**, three **Einstein Bros. Bagels** and **Gelato Dolce Vita** in Georgetown. The country-style Italian restaurant is slated to open at the end of this month.

First announced a few months ago, husband and wife chefs **Emily Sprissler** and **Jason Cote** are finalizing plans to open a casual seafood res?taurant in Glover Park called **Mayfield & Pine**, where **Town Hall** used to be. Sprissler?s face may be familiar, as she appeared on season two of Top Chef in 2006. Her food may be familiar from her time at **Vidalia**. They both worked at **Wegman?s** in Northern Virginia before landing the Glover Park site, and plan to open by the end of April.

Chef/owner **Frederik De Pue** signed a lease to open a restaurant called **Table** in D.C.?s Shaw neighborhood on N St. NW. He plans to be open seven days a week, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. The restaurant will serve wine and beer, but only tableside, as there are no plans for a bar. The building was formerly a car repair shop and Pue plans to keep its rustic look (re: lots of concrete). There will be outdoor seating on the roof deck. De Pue owns **42? Catering** and for?merly worked at **Smith Commons**. A summer opening is planned.

Ch-ch-ch-changes: **The Reef** in Adams Morgan is about to undergo renovations to give a fresh feel to the space. Renovations will main?ly occur on the middle fish tank floor. Owner **Brian Harrison** plans to install new hardwood floors, and reconfigure the booths. Construction will take place on various weekdays so that he can stay open for business. The ground floor will also be renovated at some point next year.

**Oded Weizmann** plans to open an ?urban retro deli gastro-pub? called **Carving Room** in NoMa at 300 Massachusetts Ave. NW. The neighborhood bar and restaurant will serve house-cured, hand-carved meat for their sand?wiches. The 55-seat space plus patio will have an open kitchen with meat carvers up front and a bar with ten taps serving regional beers. The plan is for it to be a quick service place during weekday lunch and transform into a full-service restaurant at night and on weekends. Oded used to manage Silver Diner in Rockville as well as BD?s **Mongolian Barbecue** in Bethesda. He also worked for **Bedrock Management**. Carving Room is slated to open by late summer.

14th and S Streets, NW: **Ted?s Bulletin** from the **Matchbox Food Group** plans to open by end of 4th quarter 2012. **Mark Kuller** plans an upscale Southeast Asian restaurant there, close to the end of the year as well.

Openings Update: **Del Frisco?s Grille** plans to open at 12th Street and Pennsylvania Ave. NW, (former Les Halles site) in early July. **Alegria, Bazin?s** Mexican restaurant, should be open by beginning of March next door to sister restaurant, Bazin?s on Church. **Yo! Sushi** at Union Station is now looking at a June opening.

**Eric** and **Ian Hilton** are planning to be quite busy this year opening new restaurants. The brothers behind **Marvin**, **The Gibson**, **Blackbyrd**, and **American Ice Company**, plan to open an Italian gastro-pub and wine bar in the former **HR-57** jazz club spot at 1610 14th St. NW, featuring live music. The yet-to-be-named restaurant plans to open this fall. They are also planning to open **The Brixton**, a British pub at 901 U St. NW by end of second quarter 2012, as well as a taqueria called El Ray a few doors down at 919 U Street, NW, in early fall. Not to mention a burger joint called **Satellite Kitchen** at 2047 9th St. NW. Did we mention they also plan to open **Chez Billy**, a French-style bistro in Petworth soon?

Chef & GM Update: **Brian McPherson** is the new chef at **Jackson 20** and the **Grille at Morrison House** in Old Town. **Rick Dugan** has been named General Manager of **BRIO Tuscan Grille** in Rockville, MD. He was formerly GM at **O?Donnell?s Sea Grill** in Bethesda and in Kentlands for many years, as well as at **Clyde?s** of Chevy Chase. **Chris Kujala** was named executive pastry chef for **Robert Wiedmaier?s** restaurants. **Maura Delaney** is GM at **McCormick & Schmick?s** in Reston. She had previously been GM at **Morton?s Steakhouse** in Tysons Corner before it closed.

**Izakaya Seki**, a 40-seat Japanese bar and restaurant, located in the former **Spott?s Barber Shop** space at 1117 V St. NW, is under construc?tion. Owners of the building and restaurant are **Cizuka Seki** and her father, **Hiroshi Seki**, a chef-owner who had his own place outside of St. Louis. Instead of a bar on the first floor, there will be a nine-seat food counter. The main din?ing room will be on the second level. Although there is no bar, there will be beer, sake and a selection of sh?ch?, a Japanese spirit that was a big hit at the **International Food & Wine Show**. As soon as they figure out how to get gas to the building, they will have a better idea of an opening date.

Quick Hits: **Mike Isabella** has targeted 14th and W Streets, NW, for a Greek concept restaurant. **Solly?s Tavern** will soon be expand?ing into **Madjet**, the Ethiopian restaurant space next door, and will offer a food menu. Should be up and running by beginning of March.

*Linda Roth Conte is president of Linda Roth Associates, Inc. (LRA), specializing in market?ing initiatives, community outreach and special events for the hospitality industry. Contact her at 703-417-2700 or [Linda@LindaRothPR.com](mailto:linda@lindarothpr.com) or visit her web site at [www.LindaRothPR.com](http://www.lindarothpr.com)*

The Latest DishFebruary 21, 2012

February 21, 2012

**Unum**, a contemporary American restaurant, just opened in Georgetown where **Mendocino Grille** used to be. The chef and owner is Phillip Blane, who was a sous chef at **Equinox** in D.C. His restaurant partner is his wife, Laura Schiller, better known as chief of staff for Sen. Barbara Boxer (D-Calif.). Unum is derived from the Latin ?E pluribus unum? (Out of many, one), which Blane says reflects his cooking. Sound familiar? It?s the phrase that appears on the Great Seal of the United States on your dollar bills. The 12-stool bar remains in the front of the restaurant, but has a new addition ? a reading nook filled with some of the couple?s favorite reads. Wonder if you can take one, and replace one, as you can do when you travel.

Top Chef contestant, Emily Sprissler, formerly of **Vidalia**, and her husband, have signed a contract to lease the **Town Hall** restaurant location in Glover Park at 2218 Wisconsin Ave., NW. She plans to call the place **Mayfair & Pine** and hopes to open by April.

Sometimes, you can come home again. Arlington native, Scot Harlan, plans to open **The Green Pig**, an American/French bistro in the old American Flatbread space on Fillmore Street in Clarendon. He?s aiming for simple and plans to offer ?redneck charcuterie.? He previously worked in New York City at **Daniele, Bouley and Danube**, as well as in Virginia at the **Inn at Little Washington, Inox** and **2941**. His sous chef is Will Sullivan who most recently worked at **Low Country** in NYC.

Quick Hits: **Stubs Kitchen and Wine** signed a lease to open in the long-vacant corner at 1401 T St, NW (next to **Policy** restaurant). A casual eatery by the name **SnitchEye Wine Bar** plans to open at 3rd St. and Florida Ave, N.W., by late spring or early summer . . . Cava Grill at Tysons Corner is targeting a March opening . . . A new sandwich and salad place named Carvy Cafe plans to open in the old Spice Indian Bistro space on 19th Street, N.W. … **District Taco** (known as a food truck) plans to open a brick-and-mortar store at 1309 F Street, N.W., by spring . . . **Southern Hospitality** replaced **Adams Mill Bar and Grill** located at 1813 Adams Mill Rd, N.W., in Adams Morgan. Everything is southern ? from the d?cor to the food to the cocktails to the beers. **Sushi Para** opened in the former Taco Bell/KFC space at 4221 Connecticut Ave, N.W. **Rosa Mexicano** just opened its third area location at 5225 Wisconsin Ave., N.W. in D.C.?s Friendship Heights, seating 165 with patio seating when weather permits. Expect to see some new menu items.

**Ashok Bajaj** empire continues to expand, with the opening of **Rasika West End** at corner of 22nd St. and New Hampshire Ave, N.W., in the luxury condo building, 22 West. It follows in the footsteps of the original **Rasika** in Penn Quarter. The restaurant plans to serve upscale American cuisine with some heavy Italian influence. Chef Vikram Sunderam will oversee both kitchens. A March opening is planned. ?

Chef & GM Update: Janis McLean is the new executive chef at **Le Zinc** (across from 2Amys) on Macomb St, N.W. Previously, she was the executive chef at **15 ria** at the Doubletree Hotel at Scott Circle. **Tonic** restaurant in Foggy Bottom (where the sign says Quigley?s Pharmacy) has a new executive chef, Michael Degginger, who most recently was at **Jake?s American Grille** in Tenleytown. Corey Randolph will take over as general manager of **The Melting Pot** in Reston in March, and Kristy Martin will take over as GM of The Melting Pot in Arlington?s Ballston district. **901 Restaurant & Bar** executive chef Thomas Hall, previously of **Ten Penh**, is using Asian flavors again to create a new menu and concept for 901 in Penn Quarter.? Expect small plates with big flavors.?

Former Clyde?s Restaurant Group corporate chef, John Guattery, is now part of the management team at Matchbox Management, which owns and operates **matchbox** (Penn Quarter, Barracks Row, Rockville and soon Logan Circle), **Ted?s Bulletin** (Barracks Row and soon Logan Circle) and **DC3** (Barracks Row). This local restaurant group is primed for dynamic growth in 2012 . What better local restaurant group experience for dynamic growth than Clyde?s?

Openings Update: Mike Isabella?s small plates Mexican restaurant, **Bandolaro**, plans to be open by March in Georgetown where Hook used to be. **Brio Tuscan Grille** in Rockville targeted Feb. 29 as its opening date.

DC Restaurant Week: January 9 – 15

January 17, 2012

Just in time for the post-holiday lull, every Washingtonian’s favorite epicurean festival starts tonight! DC Restaurant Week opens the doors to more than 200 of the District’s finest eateries, as they offer prefix, 3-course lunches for $20 and 3-course dinners for $35 for the week, on top of their usual a la carte menu. For those of us who want to go out more often but don’t want to break the bank over the costs of DC’s fine dining establishments, Restaurant Week offers the opportunity to experience all of the city’s best restaurants at more modest prices. Washington, DC Restaurant Week is produced biannually by Destination DC and the Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington.

A biannual affair—every January and August—restaurant week has been a local institution. Don’t miss out on the chance to sample the best that DC’s culinary scene has to offer. Here are some tips for getting the most of the Restaurant Week. Cheers!

Make reservations as soon as possible. Restaurant Week is hardly a secret, and if you are itching to try one of the hottest new restaurants, odds are you aren’t the only one. Restaurants consistently book their tables to full capacity during this week of foodie madness, so try and be ahead of the curve. Make your reservations ASAP.

Not all restaurants in the area participate in Restaurant Week, so make sure to do a bit of Google research before calling in and reserving your table to make sure your eatery of choice is in the mix.

When you call in for your reservation, ask about the restaurant’s promotional dates. Many participating restaurants extend the Restaurant Week deals an extra week or so to give more customers a chance to join in the fun. It also might not be as crowded the second week. Some restaurants extending their Restaurant Week deals include: Ardeo+Bardeo, Bastille, Dino, J & G Steakhouse, Jaleo, Oyamel, Watershed, Zaytinya and 701 Restaurant.

For more information visit RestaurantWeekMetroDC.org