Food

Robert Devaney • September 13, 2011

It is a walk that is also a hit. While the Washington Nationals took care of the Philadelphia Phillies this past weekend, their ball park was taking care of hungry and thirsty baseball fans. And while around the stadium there are food spots aplenty, one space stands out: the Miller Lite Scoreboard Walk with its Miller Lite Party Nights.

The Miller Lite Scoreboard Walk, located on the mezzanine level of the stadium with its own escalator to the left of the centerfield gates behind the main scoreboard, is fast becoming a meeting hot spot as its walking area and restaurant space gives baseball fans an elevated view of the field – and a place to see and be seen.

During the Miller Lite Party Nights – Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays – fans can buy a Scoreboard Pavilion seat for $20 ($22 for prime games) and get a drink voucher for the Miller Lite Scoreboard Walk Bar. Live entertainment starts two-and-a-half hours before the start of each game. Five-dollar happy-hour beer specials are available two-and-a-half hours before the first pitch at the Miller Lite Scoreboard Walk Bar for all remaining home games this season.

In fact, one of a group of fans enjoyed the food and space so much last week, they stayed put and sat in the lounge chairs and at the high tables for most of the game.

With approximately 15,000 square feet of open space, it is easy to lounge in the new chairs, listen to pregame music and partake of burgers and shakes from Shake Shack, Union Square Hospitality Group’s most popular joint, along with Danny Meyer’s other offerings, Blue Smoke, El Verano Taquería and Box Frites. You can hang at the Walk and watch the new HDTV screen behind the scoreboard and never a moment of the action on the field. Baseball, hot dogs, burgers, real pit barbeque, tacos, Belgian fries and beer and wine – and shakes and custards. No strikeout here.

Nationals Park is the third sports venue with the Union Square eateries; the other two are the New York Mets’ Citi Field and the Saratoga Racing Course.

Here are some fun green facts about Miller Lite Scoreboard Walk that the Nationals are proud of. Building on the ballpark’s environmentally-friendly design, the enhanced Miller Lite Scoreboard Walk incorporates sustainable elements which include the following: indigenous plants and trees, which require less water and maintenance while also improving air quality; all the under plantings are herbs, which attract butterflies and will give off an herbal scent when in bloom from May to November; all plantings were installed with composted materials, while the trees were grown from intercropping.

Unique to the refreshed area are the 14 shade sails suspended by turnbuckles covering the space. The sails were designed and provided by Tenshon specifically for the Nationals. They will reduce ambient
temperature up to 20 degrees and provide protection of up to 93.7 percent of UV rays, protecting fans from excessive heat and sun exposure. Each sail measures 16 feet by 10 feet and is made of fully recyclable HDPE architectural shade fabric.

Georgetowner • September 7, 2011

By Miss Dixie
Last week on a perfect summer night, an annual event for a select group of music fans was celebrated in D.C. Parrotheads flocked to suburban Virginia for Jimmy Buffet’s annual tour and marked the event by downing margaritas in droves. While I am not a Buffet fan by any means, I am truly a margarita lover.

No other musician is so closely associated with a cocktail than Buffet and the margarita, after his continually-played “Margaritaville” tune hit the airwaves in 1977. Buffet’s ode to his island escape played a huge role in elevating the margarita to the number one tequila cocktail in the U.S. Its popularity in the states has surpassed its prominence in Mexico, where the Paloma is the preferred tipple.

Today, Buffet rakes in millions peddling pre-mixed bottled drinks and serving margaritas to fans in his vast of chain of theme-restaurants.

Unfortunately for the margarita, its place in the sun has greatly altered a drink that was once delightful and refreshing. These days, it is enjoyed by most in a ready-mixed, preprocessed or machine-dispensed form that vaguely resembles its origins.

As Buffet strummed his signature diddy last week, mullet-haired, Hawaiian-shirt wearing fans sang along holding foot-high Slurpee-like drinks housed in plastic guitar-shaped glasses purported by concessionaires to be frozen margaritas.

The original margarita is timeless mixture of tequila, orange liqueur (or triple sec) and lime juice. It is a textbook example of David Embury’s “Roll Your Own” theory that drinks are made up of three components – a liquor base, (tequila) a sweetener, (triple sec) and a sour (lime juice). Embury put forth this theory in 1948 book, “The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks.” Other cocktails that follow this formula include the daiquiri, whiskey sour and the sidecar.

With a recipe this simple, it’s hard to understand how the margarita ventured so far from it roots. For starters, instead of picking up a detergent-sized bottle of margarita mix, invest in an inexpensive lime squeezer and half dozen of limes. If you don’t want to be hassled by squeezing fresh fruit on the spot, make a batch ahead and refrigerate. It will make a world of difference.

While cheap varieties of triple sec abound, I suggest upping the ante. Many bartenders use Cointreau, a French liqueur, or Grand Mariner, a Cognac distilled with orange. My personal recommendation is Patron Citronage, a high-end triple sec made by one of the most respected tequila makers in the world.

Your choice of tequila also plays a big role. Tequila is a distilled spirit made from the blue agave plant. While some tequilas are 100 percent agave, those labeled “mixto” are made with a minimum of 51 percent with other sugars making up the remainder.

While many mixologists prefer silver or un-aged tequila for their mixability in cocktails, I prefer margaritas forged from a reposado tequila, which is aged in a barrel for up to a year. Slightly aged tequila provides an extra layer of flavor and complexity.

As for garnishes, the time-honored margarita should be served on the rocks (my apologies to the frozen drink lovers) and in a glass rimmed with salt. The pinch of salt brightens the fresh, sweet and sour flavor and adds a bit of twang.

Follow these simple steps and you can enjoy a simply sublime cocktail that has become an American summer tradition. The choice of background music is up to you.

Margarita

2 oz. 100-percent agave tequila

1 oz. triple sec, Citronage, Cointreau or Grand Marnier

1 oz. freshly squeezed lime juice

Salt for garnish
 

Georgetowner •

Chef Francesco Ricchi is moving his namesake Italian restaurant, Cesco, to a larger location in Bethesda. Cesco Trattoria will occupy the former McCormick and Schmick’s location at 7401 Woodmont Ave. This new, large pizza and pasta restaurant (10,000 square feet) will feature a roomy neighborhood bar accompanied by a big bar. It is slated to open in mid-October.

The Smoke & Barrel is the name of the new upstairs beer bar at Asylum, a vegetarian (and vegan) restaurant on 18th Street, NW in the Petworth section of D.C. John Andrade and partners also own Meridian Pint, so there’s the connection. The new name reflects the highlights of the place: barbecue, beer and bourbon (what, no bacon?!) . Yum.

Mintwood Place is slated to open this fall on Columbia Road, N.W., in Adams Morgan where the yogurt shop underneath Perry’s used to be. Saied Ayoubi owns both Perry’s and Mintwood Place. Chef will be Cedric Maupillier, whose impressive resume includes Maestro, Central by Michel Richard and Citronelle. He was also part of the opening team for Medium Rare in Cleveland Park. The chef plans to source food and beverage ingredients locally and to complement the green build-out, much of the wood used was from an Amish barn in Pennsylvania. It will be open for breakfast (house-made croissants!), lunch and dinner. There are 124 seats inside and 24 on the patio.

White House staffers, your options for lunch are increasing. New-York-based Chop’t plans to open at 1730 Pennsylvania Ave., N.W. Illinois-based gourmet sandwich chain Jimmy Johns plans to open nearby at 1717 Pennsylvania Ave., N.W., in September. They also plan to open another Jimmy Johns at 14th and L Streets N.W., later this fall.

Spike Mendelsohn’s Good Stuff Eatery plans to expand to Crystal City on Crystal Drive, near Jaleo. It will be much larger than the Capitol Hill original spot, with the addition of a PDR (private dining room). A January opening is targeted. Based on customer comments, he, along with his sister, Micheline, is also planning a Georgetown location.

On Sept. 7, Sara Polon planned the opening of her first Soupergirl, with a dash of humor and recipes from her mother, Soupermom, aka Marilyn Polon. Soupergirl will offer homemade soups and salads that feature seasonal, fresh ingredients from local farmers, as well locally sourced breads and baked goods. It’s open for self-service lunch and dinner and carry-out. All soups, salads and baked goods are vegan and are under orthodox kosher supervision. All biodegradable scraps are deposited in the compost bins which Soupergirl shares with fellow residents of the conservation-minded building in which the store is located. Dark wood tables and light green chairs are made from 111 recycled Coke bottles. Did we mention this is in the Takoma section of D.C., or was that obvious?

Banh mi is a traditional Vietnamese sandwich of pickled vegetables and fillings such as chicken, pork and meatballs, tofu and butternut squash, in a baguette. This Vietnamese quick food has been growing in popularity in the region, care of BonMi, whose new banh mi shop will open in the former Sandella’s space at 1911 I St., N.W. A late September opening is planned.

Katsuya Fukushima has been named the new head chef at Daikaya in Chinatown (or Penn Quarter), the new ramen restaurant owned by Sushiko co-owner Daisuke Utagawa. Previously the Okinawa native worked for Jose Andres’ ThinkFoodGroup. Daikaya, is scheduled to open on 6th Street, N.W., behind the Verizon Center in the first quarter 2012.

Quick Hits:
Morton’s The Steakhouse has signed a lease to re-locate its Tysons Corner steakhouse to the former Borders location in Tysons Corne, with an opening planned for 2012. Grill Kabob will open at 33rd and M Streets, N.W., in Georgetown in the old Aditi Indian restaurant space. Panera plans to open at DCUSA on Irving Street in Columbia Heights between IHOP and Panda Express by October.

Florida-based Miller’s Ale House will open its first Washington-area location at 1500 Rockville Pike next summer. This casual dining restaurant and has 50 locations nationwide. Speaking of Rockville, look for Geoff Tracy to open one of his restaurant concepts in the Againn space in Rockville. U.K.-based Wagamama (think noodles) is planning to open in the former Olsson’s bookstore space at 418 Seventh St., N.W., in Penn Quarter in early 2012. Michael Landrum, creator of the Ray’s The Steaks empire, plans to open RYSE, an urban bakeshop/café, in the City Vista building at 1065 5th St., N.W., in Mt. Vernon Square. Roti Mediterranean Grill is slated to open at 1501 Wilson Blvd. next spring, part of 14,500 square feet formerly (and partially) occupied by Oak Street Café. Also opening in Rosslyn, Ahra Cafe & Sandwich Bar at 1100 Wilson Blvd., referred to as the twin towers. Paul Park is the owner. Duplex Diner on 18th Street, N.W., between Dupont Circle and Adams Morgan has a new look and a new owner. Founding owner Eric Hirshfield sold his lucky 13-year-old place to longtime bartender, Kevin Lee. Hikari Sushi & Sake Bar is planning to open in the Atlas District at 644 H Street, N.E. Boundary Stone is under construction in Bloomingdale section of D.C. at 116 Rhode Island Ave., N.W. You’ll know the bar is open when you see the huge neon Sylvan sign (from the old Sylvan Theater) lit out front. A variety of micro-brewed beers will be featured. Marrakesh Lounge is slated to open in Adams Morgan at 1817 Columbia Rd., N.W., where Evolve used to be. Adams Morgan is popping restaurants: The Mellow Mushroom is now shooting to open this month at the old 18th and Red location, 2436 18th St., N.W. They were at the mercy of the construction gods. Cheesetique in Virginia’s Del Ray section (not far from National Airport) plans to open in the Village at Shirlington this fall. They have also added a dining room to the back of their Del Ray store.

Chef Update:
Dan Giusti, head chef at 1789, is heading to across the Atlantic to Copenhagen to work at Noma, currently ranked as No. 1 restaurant in the world by S. Pellegrino’s World’s Top Restaurants. He will not be the head chef, but he will learn unique preparations from the ground up. The kitchen at 1789 will be manned by Brian Stickel, who previously worked there, and will soon be chef at The Clyde’s Group’s forthcoming downtown restaurant and music venue, The Hamilton. Cesare Lanfranconi is now at Lia’s, part of Geoff Tracy’s restaurant empire. Derek Brown has hired Joe Rumberger to run the kitchens at The Passenger and Columbia Rood, the twin bars on 7th Street, N.W., he owns with his brother Tom. Previously, Joe was sous chef at Restaurant Nora. John Engle has been named chef de cuisine at Robert Wiedmaier’s Brasserie Beck in downtown D.C. Previously he was sous chef at Marcel’s, then at the helm of Mussel Bar by RW in Bethesda.

Peter Pastan plans to expand his creative operations, but this time way outside of the D.C. area in California’s Central Coast, about an hour north of Santa Barbara. His latest venture is a bakery called Lompoc, located behind the Piedrasassi New Vineland Winery, which he owns a part of, so knows the area is in need of a good place to eat. Peter owns Obelisk in Dupont Circle and Two Amys (his wife being one of the two). He will make his own bread and grow his own wheat for it, as he also leases land from a wheat farmer nearby.

Linda Roth Conte is president of Linda Roth Associates, Inc. (LRA) specializing in making creative connections through media relations, marketing initiatives, community outreach and special events for the hospitality industry. Contact Linda at 703-417-2700 or linda@lindarothpr.com or visit her web site at LindaRothPR.com.

Georgetowner • August 10, 2011

The coffee shop revolution has hit a new front with the opening of the uber-cool (check out the gossip columns for who goes there in LA) The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, at the Washington Hilton. It will be their second East Coast store, the first being Miami. It is slated to open this fall in the Connecticut Avenue lobby, with easy access for commuters in the Dupont Circle corridor. The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf is a Los Angeles, California-based coffee chain, with over 750 locations in 22 countries, including Australia, Brunei, China, Egypt, India, Indonesia, Israel, South Korea, Kuwait, Malaysia, Mexico, Philippines, Qatar, Singapore, Sri Lanka United Arab Emirates and Vietnam.

It’s official: the guys who brought you Matchbox have signed a lease to open at 14th and T, NW. This will be the fourth Matchbox in the D.C. area, as they also own and operate a fifth matchbox in Palm Springs, Ca.

Chris George plans to open Memphis Barbeque in the former Mackey’s Pub space in Crystal City before summer ends. A significant facelift is in the works. George got his start with Houston’s, but has also worked at Occidental Grill and Mike’s American Grill. There will also be a large patio for dining when the weather permits.

Bistro Le Zinc has arrived just in time to take advantage of the recent release of Woody Allen’s movie, “Midnight in Paris.” The Macomb Street bistro is owned and operated by Brasserie Beck’s former manager John Warner and executive chef David Ashwell, who also cooked at Marcel’s. The name comes from the term “les zincs” referring to the pewter bar counter tops often found in French cafes. There is seating for 60 inside and 20 on the patio.

The head chef of Café Atlantico, Richard Brandenburg, has been hired by Edens & Avant, one of the big boys in real estate development, as its first director of culinary strategy. Café Atlantico closed in June to make room for America Eats Tavern, the edible collaboration between Jose Andres’ ThinkFoodGroup and the National Archives.

The retail space on the corner of the 4th and Massachusetts Ave. NW (NoMa) will be the home to a new “European Café with wine bar” to be called TEL’VEH.

Chef Bryan Voltaggio has two restaurants in the works, both slated for next year. The first will be in Frederick, Voltaggio’s hometown and the site of Volt. The working name for the 10,000-square-foot space is North Market Kitchen, and it’ll have a large dining room, a store, and exhibition kitchen with stations for pasta, raw seafood, cheese, baked goods, and rotisserie meats. Voltaggio was inspired by New York’s Eataly. Closer to D.C. will be a bistro/steakhouse hybrid in Chevy Chase Pavilion, also home to a Cheesecake Factory. Voltaggio’s 220-seat restaurant will have an open kitchen.

Speaking of Eataly, rumor is that Joe Bastianich and Mario Batali are scouting sites in D.C. to open an Eataly, which is comprised of a food hall that sells gourmet foods and several restaurants. They will need a big space.

Developer Forest City Washington announced Monday the signing of seven new restaurants anchored by a Harris Teeter grocery store at its new project called The Yards near Nationals Park. The restaurants, all slated to open in 2012, will include Potbelly, Buzz Bakery, Austin Grill Express, Kruba Thai and Sushi, BRB-Be Right Burger, Huey’s 24/7 Diner and a brew pub from Neighborhood Restaurant Group, the group behind Birch & Barley and ChurchKey.

Chef Update: ThinkFoodGroup has promoted Joe Raffa, the head chef at Oyamel, to culinary operations director for the restaurant company, overseeing the culinary operations of 11 concepts in three U.S. markets. He will be replaced at Oyamel by industry veteran John Paul Damato, formerly the head chef of Jaleo in Bethesda. Chef Richard Beckel is the culinary force behind Thompson Hospitality’s BRB: Be Right Burger, awhile he is head chef at American Tap Room. A Culinary Institute of America in NY graduate, Chef Beckel has worked at Hooked Seafood Restaurant in Sterling, Va. as well as The Caucus Room in Penn Quarter, D.C.

Managers Update: Gil Fornaris has been hired as General Manager of Ping Pong Dim Sum at the new Dupont Circle location – slated to open in September, but will take on the roll of Operations Manager for both that and the Penn Quarter location. Morton’s, The Steakhouse in Georgetown has a new Sales and Marketing Manager, Carla McCully, who hails from Hilton Dulles.

Openings Update: Shaw’s Tavern slated to open by August on Florida Ave., NW. It appears the restaurants on the Georgetown waterfront at Washington Harbour will not be open until spring 2012. Pinkberry, the tart frozen yogurt shop, plans to open in Georgetown in October. RJ Cooper’s Rogue 24 opened on July 27, which is why he could not do the Chefs Go Fresh motorcycle ride on July 26 (bummer).

Bobby Flay is planning to open another Bobby’s Burger Palace at 2121 K Street, NW on Aug. 16 with his famed crunch burgers and boozy milk shakes.

Georgetowner • July 27, 2011

Yesterday, a long row of motorcycles sat in the hot morning sun on the sidewalk framing the doors of Brasserie Beck on K Street. The Washingtonians hurrying past in skirts and suits spared little more than a glance for the tough-looking bunch in black T-shirts and leather vests who smoked cigars and shot the breeze while two photographers circled, snapping their pictures.

This motley crew was a gathering of some of D.C.’s best chefs, all of them there for the “Chefs Go Fresh” event presented by Georgetown Media Group, publishers of The Georgetowner and The Downtowner, and Loudoun County, Virginia Department of Economic Development. The event was a resurrection of the popular “Chefs on Bikes” event which was last held four years ago, and was brought back with the intention of bringing D.C. chefs closer to local farmers and produce.

The day kicked off with a breakfast at Brasserie Beck hosted by Chef Robert Wiedmaier, co-founder of the original “Chefs on Bikes” event. Before the chefs took off on their ride touring Virginia farms such as Endless Summer Harvest, Notaviva Vineyard and Stoneybrook Farm, The Georgetowner took the chance to ask these restaurant personalities a few questions.

We asked the chefs what is their favorite fresh ingredient to work with, and got a varied list of produce that is in season now and ingredients that are staples year-round. Chef Peter Russo of Chef Geoff said that his favorite ingredient is foie while Chef Clifford Wharton of Matchbox went with ginger and Weidmaier said he prefers white asparagus from Belgium. Tomatoes and potatoes were also given mention while two votes were put in for garlic.

“[There are] way too many things have to have garlic in them not to give it first billing,” said Chef Thomas Elder of Harth Restaurant.

When asked whose kitchen they were in when they weren’t in the kitchens of their respective restaurants, the chefs responded with an almost unanimous answer of their kitchens at home. Chef Vinod of Indique Restaurant said that he could be found in “my mom’s kitchen.” Elder and Chef RJ Cooper of Rogue 24 both said that Weidmaier’s kitchen was a favorite of theirs, while Weidmaier himself said that you’re most likely to find him “at home with my family in my kitchen.”

Finally, we asked each chef who their personal “Top Chef” is. Wiedmair gave a list of four: Chef Paul Stearman of Marcel’s; Chris Watson, the chef de cuisine at Brabo; Matt Hagen, the chef de cuisine at Weidmair’s Mussel Bar, and John Engle, the chef de cuisine at Weidmair’s Brasserie Beck. Vinod named Chef Mike Isabella of Graffiato, Chef Roberto Donna of Galileo III replied with Pellegrino Artusi, author of the famous Italian cookbook “La scienza in cucina e l’arte di mangiare bene,” and Cooper said that his “Top Chef” is the famous Ferran Adria. Weidmair, whose kitchen’s hot Belgian waffles and fresh scrambled eggs the chefs ate while answering these questions, was nominated at “Top Chef” several times, and Russo answered diplomatically, saying “my wife.”

Gary Tischler • July 26, 2011

A weekday afternoon at the Peacock Café is one of the few quiet times in the popular Georgetown Restaurant at 3251 Prospect Street. With the tables fully white-clothed and less foot traffic outside, you can get an appreciation of the graceful style of the place. Sitting at the bar, there’s a tennis match on the television between a Russian and a Ukrainian playing at the French Open, which adds to a vaguely casual international atmosphere here.

We talked the Shahab and Maziar Farivar, the brothers who own the Peacock Café, at a table by the back window looking out into an inviting patio. The whole scene looks and feels pleasantly prosperous, like the brothers themselves—Shahab in shirt and tie with a touch of gray in his hair, Maziar in his chef’s uniform, also a little gray, with some ounces added to his frame.

They will be celebrating the Peacock Café’s 20th anniversary on this stretch of Prospect Street, where they first opened back in 1991 as a six-seat restaurant/carryout without a real stove or kitchen. They have become a Georgetown neighborhood fixture in an area where competition includes the high end and glitzy likes of Morton’s and Café Milano.

In a way, the brothers Farivar are a classic American success story with an edge to it, given the times we live in. The brothers immigrated to the United States at a young age, sent here from Iran by their parents who would join them later in the wake of the Iranian revolution that toppled the Shah in the 1970s.

Even though Iranian family tradition of the educated classes are still a part of their way of doing things in America—politeness and manners seems to be a natural and genuine part of their makeup—the men see themselves as Americans, blessed with the opportunities that this country can provide to immigrants who work hard, have adventurous imaginations and have the courage not to be afraid to fail. Like all Americans, they were appalled by 9/11. “We could see the smoke from the Pentagon on Wisconsin Avenue,” Maziar recalls, uneasy with the friction between Iran and the United States.

Some of us at the Georgetowner were regular customers of the first Peacock Café location, 1,200 square feet filled with the smell of fresh bread and sweets. The division of labor back then already existed: Shahab was the front man, the greeter, the person customers and employees dealt with.

“He is the best,” Maziar says. “The best at his job because, you know how people can be in this business. Not everyone is good at the people part. But Shahab is. He’s more than good. He’s interested in people, he likes people, he’s got tons of charm, and everything he does and says is genuine, authentic. People can pick up on that.”

That’s one of those intangibles that make this restaurant—a bigger version of the original—a success. It’s hard to peg, for instance, what the restaurant is supposed to be. You wouldn’t, for instance, guess that the restaurant and the menu is the work of two gentlemen from Iran, “except that sometimes, I sneak some seasoning, some flavors in,” says Maziar. On its website, it bills itself as a contemporary American Restaurant and Bar, which is to say that the menu, eclectic as all get out, does include an array of burgers and maybe one of the best filet mignons around.

“Sometimes I think it must have seemed crazy at the time,” Maziar says. “We put together everything we had and we put it in this place. It was upstairs, in the square right by Wisconsin Avenue, but it fronted the courtyard on Prospect. We thought of it as a café and market, and we thought we might last a couple of years if we were lucky, and sometimes we weren’t sure about that. But you know, we did what we do now, except it’s bigger, with lots more employees, bigger costs to make the nut and a profit.

“Sometimes my mom and dad, they would sit there—there were only six seats, really—so that it would appear that we would have customers there all the time. Crazy, I know. A friend of mine would come in a lot too. But what people liked then was the unusual stuff. We did healthy, fresh before there was Whole Foods, we did gourmet coffee before there was Starbucks. People liked that.”

When they were busy back then, the line stretched out the door.

I liked the vegetarian chili, which is still on the menu and still as good as before. And for me to even admit proximity to vegetarian is the stuff of amazement to friends. But I’m not alone—Secretary of State Hilary Clinton recently celebrated her birthday here with husband Bill, and the ex-prez ate a healthy vegan dinner—quite a thing for a man who was something of a notorious burger king.

It’s hard to exactly identify the quality of Peacock, until you talk to the brothers. Their personalities and tastes, their eager curiosity about the world, their love affair with quality, are like thumbprints all over the restaurant. And Maziar is a talented chef with a lot of soul, who adds an extra kick and a little song to some signature dishes, like the filet mignon with mushroom sauce, roasted duck Provencal, grilled lamb, the Bistro burger with gorgonzola cheese, and the seared tuna sandwich. If you’ve been absent for a long time, they treat and greet you like you were there last Saturday.

They’ve got art on the walls, currently Fashion Week photographs whose proceeds from purchase benefit various charities. They’ve got lots of light and lots of space. You can bring your parents there, your hip artist cousin, your significant other, your grandchild. You don’t hear much from food critics—except for a pair of local bloggers who call themselves the Bitches Who Brunch. Yes indeed. They loved the place and raved about the poached eggs and a smoothie called the Mango Tango.

It’s the quality of the food and offerings that count, to be sure, but often restaurants are more than just food. The story of the Peacock Café is in the event itself, the 20th anniversary, and the story of the brothers and the longtime employees. Several generations of Georgetown University students and their parents have eaten here on graduation day, for instance. “It’s graduation time now, and you know that’s always a bittersweet time for us,” Shahab said. “The kids and their parents that have been coming here will be gone, and that’s sad.”

And it’s really the story of these two men. For a long time, they lived together in Virginia, until Shahab married wife Micky ten years ago. They have two daughters, Ava, six, and Ella Rose, four. “He is the best uncle,” Shahab said. “But I had to kick him out.”

You will also notice that they’re close and comfortable, and that this is the house they built together. The Peacock—and the brothers Farivar—are a Georgetown institution, as much as any restaurant of long standing. They are a part of the Prospect block and a part of the daily life of Georgetowners, from brunchers and students, to residents and families. They’ve made three different attempts to expand—once in Dupont Circle, another time in Baltimore, and another more recently on K Street, right as the big economic meltdown hit.

They both agree there have been some mistakes. “But we learned from them, I like to think,” Shahab says. “I mean, we haven’t given up on expansion, but not right now. We’re here to stay, that’s for sure.”

Maybe, like some fictional character named Dorothy, they’ve learned that there’s no place like home. And home, for the immigrant brothers from Iran, is right here in Georgetown. [gallery ids="102558,102559,102560,102561,102562,102563,102564,102565" nav="thumbs"]

Katherine Tallmadge •

The Farmers Markets are almost in full swing. The Rose Park Market began on Wednesday, May 9 (every Wednesday, 3 – 7 p.m. through November), with the two most popular items in season: asparagus and strawberries. And of course, The Dupont Circle Fresh Farm Market is now open on Sundays, 8:30a.m. – 1p.m. This is the time of year to revel in the peak ripeness, flavor and nutrition of these springtime delicacies.

The recipe for curried chicken salad with strawberries comes from my mother and makes a very nice lunch offering. Like any curry dish, its perfect companions are a spicy or sweet chutney (try CHOP Market’s Nature Isle Chutney) and a cool yogurt. You could also top it on a baguette or stuff it into a tomato or avocado half. Serve with pickles, carrot and celery sticks or radishes. You can use any seasonal fruits such as peaches, grapes, oranges, or anything ripe and in season. Have fun with it. The beauty of spring is the wide array of options, and it’s hard to go wrong.

Strawberries are actually members of the Rose family, and there are over 600 different varieties. Choose freshly picked, ripe berries, as they will be the tastiest and will have the most nutrients. “Look for berries fully formed, bright red, without bruising or soft spots and with fresh-looking green caps,” says janie Hibler in her book, The Berry Bible. She continues with a word of caution: “Beware of buying out-of-season strawberries, as sometimes they are picked when they are only 40% ripe. These berries may turn red, but they will never develop sweetness and can be hard as an apple.”

Strawberries are considered a “superfood.” They have one of the highest antioxidant and nutrient contents of all foods, they are also low in calories—you can eat them in unlimited quantities. In fact, for your health, the more the better!

“A serving of eight strawberries contains more vitamin C than an orange,” says David Grotto in 101 Foods That Could Save Your Life. “Strawberries are also rich in folate, potassium, and fiber. They’re especially high in cancer- and heart-disease-fighting phytonutrients (beneficial plant compounds) called flavonoids, anthocyanins, ellagic acid, quercetin, catechin, and kaempferol.”

Asparagus, meanwhile, is packed with nutrients. Low in calories, it’s an excellent source of folic acid and Vitamin C, Thiamin, and Vitamin B6. Asparagus, like other fruits and vegetables, is sodium-free, and contains no fat or cholesterol. It is an important source of potassium and many nutrients, important for boosting your immune system and preventing heart disease, lowering blood pressure and even preventing cancer. According to the National Cancer Institute, Asparagus is the highest tested food containing Glutathione, one of the body’s most potent cancer fighters. Additionally, Asparagus is high in Rutin, which is valuable in strengthening the blood vessels.?This recipe for chilled asparagus spears in a creamy vinaigrette is a bright, balanced dish that I think brings out the best in asparagus.

Kjerstin’s Curried Chicken Salad with Strawberries and Roasted Almonds

Serves 4

2 cups chicken breast meat, cooked, chopped (about 2 half breasts)
1 pint low sodium, nonfat chicken stock
1/3 cup small mild onion, chopped
1-1/2 cup celery, chopped
1 cup seedless grapes, halved (or other available fruit)
¾ pound strawberries, hulled and quartered
3 Tbsp fresh dill, chopped
3 Tbsp chopped fresh parsley
1 tsp curry powder, or to taste
1 oz almonds or walnuts, toasted and chopped
1/4 cup low fat ranch-style or cucumber dressing

Poach the chicken breasts in stock until cooked. Let cool, then chop in bite-size pieces. Add the rest of the ingredients and chill. Serve chilled. Per serving: 230 calories, 8 grams fat, 1 grams sat fat, 19 g carbohydrates, 3 grams fiber, 20 grams protein

Chilled Asparagus in a Creamy Tarragon, Shallot, and Roasted Walnut Vinaigrette

Serves 6 to 8

2 lb asparagus, cleaned, tough ends removed, cut in 1.5 inch pieces
1 Tbsp walnut or canola oil
Salt and pepper to taste
1/2 cup roasted, unsalted walnuts, chopped
1 small (4 oz) red bell pepper, finely chopped (roasting optional)
1 bunch (1/4 cup) green onions, finely chopped

Vinaigrette:
2 Tbsp tarragon vinegar
4 Tbsp walnut oil
2 Tbsp low fat Greek yogurt
1 shallot, finely chopped
2 Tbsp fresh tarragon, finely chopped
1 Tbsp fresh parsely, finely chopped
1 Tbsp fresh chives, finely chopped
Salt and pepper to taste

If you are using raw walnuts, toast the walnuts: place in a single layer on a baking sheet in a 350 degree oven for 8 to 10 minutes until light golden brown. Let cool, then chop.

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Prepare the vinaigrette by mixing all the ingredients in a bowl large enough to fit the asparagus, red pepper and green onions. Place the bowl with the vinaigrette in the refrigerator so that it is cool when the asparagus comes out of the oven.
If you wish, peel the stalks of the asparagus for a more tender vegetable. Slice the asparagus stalks diagonally into bite-sized or approximately 1.5 inch pieces. In a large bowl or plastic bag, toss the pieces in the walnut or canola oil and a light sprinkling of salt and pepper, until the asparagus is coated lightly with oil. Place on a baking sheet in a single layer and cook for 5 minutes in the middle of the oven. Pour the hot asparagus into the cool vinaigrette to help discontinue the cooking of the asparagus, so that it remains al dente. Do not overcook! Add the red bell pepper, green onions, and nuts. Toss and serve immediately while still warm, or serve chilled. About 1,000 calories for the entire dish.

Jordan Wright •

Union Station, the magnificent early 20th century train station that houses B. Smith’s Restaurant in Washington, DC, is one of the most majestic buildings in the city. Designed by distinguished American architect Daniel Burnham, it has been a national landmark since its completion in 1908. The splendid Beaux Arts statuary was created by no less a sculptor than Louis St. Gaudens, whose 50-plus figures in the station were considered his finest work. Adding to its stony provenance is its proximity to the US Senate and the charming Le Notre-inspired gardens.

Sixteen years ago the stunning Barbara Smith, Vogue supermodel and African-American style setter, opened her very popular restaurant along the south side of the building. Housed in what was once known as the Presidential Suite, it is the same site where US Presidents and dignitaries once convened before their inaugurations. With its spectacular décor, lavish period chandeliers and Presidential seals still intact, it is in these turn-of-the-century rooms where B. Smith, as she is known, serves her delightful mix of Cajun Creole and Southern cuisine.

Recently I visited the restaurant to try out her new fall menu. I found her signature style still in place with smartly suited and wine-savvy servers, low country cuisine and a genteel atmosphere. In the background a baby grand played softly as we sampled fried chicken livers with onion confit and pineapple chutney, crawfish and crab dip and pan-seared grouper over hoppin’ John rice with a citrus beurre blanc. The osso bucco with creamy asparagus risotto didn’t speak to the Southern style but was tender and lusciously sauced all the same.

Several well-chosen and gently priced wines accompanied our dinner. We began with a 2008 Caymus Conundrum…a blend (I know, I know, but just get over it. I did!) of California whites, but soft and lovely with honeysuckle overtones, and followed up with a 2007 Sacred Hill Marlborough Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc, in which I divined chocolate, plum and cinnamon tones.

B. Smith’s still keeps their ever-popular Bourbon Street bread pudding on the menu, but it was the beignets that really charmed. Oh, to have a half a dozen of these warm, sweet treats for breakfast with a cup of French Market chicory coffee!

For reservations visit www.bsmith.com [gallery ids="102495,120217,120223" nav="thumbs"]

Ari Post •

When Chef Daniel Bruce created the Boston Wine Festival over twenty years ago, it was hardly driven by divine inspiration. “The initial reason for the wine festival is that it was a slow year,” he says with a chuckle. Since then, however, Bruce’s wine festivals have been steadily growing, spreading like gospel throughout the country.

This will be the second year that Bruce brings his wine festival to the District, hosted again by The Fairfax Hotel at Embassy Row. Calling the event a festival is a loose way to say it; the Capital Wine Festival is a series of wine dinners, in which each meal is constructed around a specific region or style of wine. Bruce brings in the winemakers and proprietors of each participating winery to discuss the wines and terroir of their particular regions, affording guests a uniquely intimate experience with their wine and food, and putting a distinct twist on the farm-to-table experience.

In order to be true to the wine he selects, Bruce goes about planning the dinners in a way that most chefs would never consider. He does not choose the wine to complement the food, but tailors the cuisine around the flavors of the individual wines. “There’s nothing worse than the wine coming off bad because the food wasn’t prepared right to go with it,” he says.

“Working with the wine makers has changed the nature of how I work,” he says, revealing a sincere and personal devotion to Cuisine, which he defines as a seamless blend of wine and food. “In a lot of ways, the winemakers are like chefs, bringing out the best flavors the grapes and the land have to offer.”

Bruce’s personal history with wine began around 30 years ago, while he was working abroad in Tuscany and France. “Wine there is part of the table,” he says. “Wine is just such a part of their culture. Just as regular as a food source.”

Growing up in the United States, where wine is not part of the culture, Bruce found the commonality of table wine in Europe to be a revelatory experience. The wine, almost always local, greased the evening conversation, drew out the night, and helped form bonds among friends and family.

Table wine also affected the flavor of the local food offerings. While it may not always have been perfectly constructed or balanced (though being Tuscan, it was probably damn close), the flavors of the land were so richly engrained within the wine that they complemented the surrounding cuisine like nothing Bruce had ever tasted.

When he returned to the States, Bruce went to more formal tastings, which opened his eyes to the potential and diversity of wine to complement different cuisines. He began pairing food and wine at dinner tastings for winemakers in the basement of Manhattan’s Club 21, working with the sommelier to choose the wines. Only after meeting and befriending the winemakers did he begin constructing his plans to showcase distinct regional wine varieties with tailor-made foods.

23 years ago, Bruce founded the Boston Wine Festival. He now has four around the country, including the French Quarter Festival in New Orleans, the Capital Wine Festival, and the Berkeley Wine Festival, which he kicked off in 2010.

Tasting the wine is Bruce’s first priority in putting together a dinner. It may sound like a well-dressed excuse to knock back some good vino, but it’s really no joke. He samples 3,000 wines a year, taking careful notes on each bottle. “My wine notes tend to be chef-driven,” he says. “Not wine driven. I might write down, ‘Belon oysters,’ next to a Chardonnay, or something that invokes food ingredients.”

He then chooses the winemakers based on a theme or a group that shows a spectrum of styles. The process falls somewhere in the infinitely coextending parameters of art and science. “I try to strike a balance,” he says simply, deceiving the complexity of this job. “It’s a matter of recalling the structure of the wine. I’ll find something that uses contrasting, parallel or compatible flavors. I use the flavor of the wine as a departing point for the food.”

Wines with higher acidity are easy to pair, he admits. That’s why Pinot Noir and Barolo are so often recommended at restaurants. When the wine is less acidic, he says, you have to be a little more careful with what you cook or you might overwhelm the plate. “Having tasted the wine, I know how far I’ll go with the intensity and flavors of the dish.”

He particularly likes cooking for Pinot Noir because, as he explains, it is a wine that is true to the terroir that it comes from, “Which, as a chef, gives me more options.”

“I do a dish created only for that wine,” Bruce says of his cooking philosophy. “There are subtle differences to all the wines. So why shouldn’t I honor that tradition by creating individual dishes?”

Bruce uses the wines he selects in the cooking process as well, from using syrups made from the varietal, to a marinade or glaze or herb reduction for meat and vegetables. Again, he only cooks with the wines he decides to feature, further displaying the versatility and flavors of each selection.

Bringing together winemakers and wine enthusiasts, the Capital Wine Festival celebrates great wine from around the globe. Prior to each dinner, guests will enjoy a reception or seminar before being seated for an evening of food and wine pairings. “When people get to meet the person behind the wine, it’s a great thing for them. They can go back and tell their friends, and they have a story. There is always a story behind a bottle of wine, and now they can be a part of it.”

Once a week, beginning on January 20, the Capital Wine Festival will host eight intimate wine dinners at the Fairfax Hotel at Embassy Row. For ticket purchases please visit CapitalWineFestival.com, or call 202-736-1453. Each dinner is limited to 60 guests. [gallery ids="99589,104944" nav="thumbs"]

Corrie Dyke •

Restaurants around town are offering up a plateful of events. From culinary classes to food festivals, the local dining scene is freshening up for spring.

Westend Bistro by Eric Ripert has introduced new menu items, which it debuted at a hugely successful tasting night last February 17. The new mouthwatering plates include a chicken-fried pork belly appetizer, black walnut and cauliflower soup and a succulent triggerfish.

Citronelle will host a five week wine series, starting with Wine Profiling, Saturday February 26 from 1 – 3 pm. The restaurant, located at 3000 M Street NW, will continue the series March 18, April 30, May 12, and conclude on June 18. Classes are $100 individually, with deals varying on how many classes you sign up for. Reserve a space by calling 202 625 2150.

The Herman J. Wiemer Winemaker Dinner at Chef Geoff’s Downtown will take place Tuesday March 22 at 7 pm. Fred Merwath, winemaker and owner of Herman J. Wiemer Vineyard, will be the featured speaker at the dinner. The menu features five courses each paired with a featured wine. Chef Geoff’s Downtown is on 13th Street between E & F NW. Tickets are $69 and can be purchased at ChefGeoff.com

Oyamel Cocina Mexicana will celebrate the fourth annual Tequila & Mezcal Festival March 14 through 27. Oyamel, 401 7th Street NW, will be offering premium tequila and mescal, served in flights, and specialty cocktails. Stop by Oyamel from 4 – 6 pm March 15 – 24 to enjoy complimentary samples of tequila and mescal. A celebratory menu will also be available during the festival, incorporating the spirits.

John Engle will return to Brasserie Beck and take on the position of Chef de Cuisine. Engle, most recently at Mussel Bar in Bethesda, will be serving up the brasserie’s signature mussels, along with other Belgian favorites. 1101 K Street NW.

Open Kitchen’s next spread of cooking classes will be going on February 27 – March 1. The hands-on classes cover everything from cupcakes to the cuisine of Venice. The classes run for three hours and range from $79 to $89 per class. Details on the classes can be found at OpenKitchen-DCMetro.com

The Source by Wolfgang Puck launched its new Presidential Menu Tasting on Presidents Day, which featured all of the dishes enjoyed by President Obama and the First Lady during their January dinner at the restaurant. The special menu will continue during regular business hours in the main dinning room of The Source, 575 Pennsylvania Avenue NW.

HomeMade Pizza is now open at 1826 Wisconsin Ave. NW. The take-and-bake pizza shop makes everything with fresh, all natural ingredients. Stop by the new store February 23 and 24 for the launch party and take part in fresh produce giveaways and free pizza.

Even more pizza is hitting the area when Pizzeria da Marco opens its doors at 8008 Woodmont Ave. in Bethesda on March 28. The pizzeria will feature authentic Neapolitan pizza cooked in a handcrafted wood-burning oven.

Fourteen Alexandria restaurants participated in the Cherry Challenge earlier this month. Restaurant chefs competed with cherry-inspired dishes, drinks, and desserts. This year’s winners were no strangers to the competition. For the third year in a row Temp Restaurant placed in the finals, taking the win in the starters category with their Insalata di Ceresa e Mela di Fuji. Murphy’s Irish Pub and Restaurant won the entrée with their three-time winning Duck a la Cherry. Sweet Cherry Rye from Food Matters took the prize in drink, and an ice cream from Dishes of India won dessert. Each person who ordered the dish or menu item was given a ballot to judge the item on taste, presentation, and creativity.

The half beef, half pork smoked sausage has long been considered the District’s signature dish. Domaso will be hosting its first annual Top Dog Half Smoke Challenge, Sunday May 1 at 3pm. Ten area chefs will be presenting their interpretation of the local favorite. Admission is $20 per person and includes samples of all ten half-smokes, a signature Skyy Vodka cocktail, tax and gratuity. Domaso will be donating 100 percent of the proceeds to Brainfood, a non-profit youth development organization based in DC that helps build life skills and promotes healthy living. The restaurant is located at Hotel Palomar, in Arlington, VA.

Support the rebuilding of the Fauquier Livestock at the Cattlemen’s Hoedown, February 26 at Barrel Oak Winery. The benefit runs from 6-9pm in Delaplane VA. The night will feature a live and silent auction, wine and appetizers. Tickets are $25, reservations can be made at 540-364-1572.