Cocktail of the Month: The Handsome Devil
By • November 13, 2024 0 26
Every spicy cuisine has a chili pepper that gives it its distinctive kick. In Mexico, it’s the jalapeño; in Thailand, it’s the bird’s eye; and in Jamaica, it’s the Scotch bonnet.
But in China’s Sichuan province, diners must prepare for a double punch. Not only is the fiery food loaded with Chinese xiao mi la chilis, but the tiny Sichuan peppercorn adds a tongue-numbing dimension. Famous dishes include kung pao chicken, mapo tofu and dan dan noodles.
The piquant smack applies to cocktails as well. In the heart of Chengdu city, Sichuan’s capital, is Jing Bar, a premier cocktail lounge. Bar Manager Nick Lappen has crafted a stunning menu full of bold Eastern flavors.
I started my visit off with a pepper-infused beer. I’ve had spicy spins on craft beers many times before and this light, crisp brew was well done. The heat came in the form of a few small pinpricks — nothing overpowering, yet refreshing on a humid, late afternoon day.
My first cocktail was a Sichuan-spiced take on the Moscow Mule, a logical choice to infuse with heat since it already has a seasoned flair from ginger beer. Jing’s version was a combination of peppercorn-infused vodka, peppercorn-ginger syrup, mint and ginger beer. It arrived in a proper copper mug, piled high with crushed ice and a spattering of peppercorns on top. A candied lime added a nice visual touch.
The tangy taste of fresh ginger popped in my mouth immediately, but — perhaps because it’s China — the ginger had a fragrant and reviving edge, with a hint of welcoming sweetness from the sugar. The drink was icy cold, which served as a brilliant foil for the heat index that slowly crept up. It had a fizzy, buzzy, zesty quality to it.
The next creation Nick prepared was truly dreamy: the Celantano, named after Italian singer Adriano Celantano. It was as though someone took a list of my “likes” and tailor-made a concoction to please my taste buds. It combined my passion for spicy food with my favorite poison, Campari, along with grapefruit juice and gin.
The bitter grapefruit juice acted as a soulmate for the botanical elements of my favorite red elixir. Gin, which always melds wonderfully with Campari, rounded out a savory ménage à trois. The spicy Sichuan pepper provided a climatic finish. Light and breezy, but with the soul of a dragon, it felt like a beachy Negroni. The contrast made my tastebuds stand at attention.
The last creation came from Nick’s “Hot as Hell” menu, which referred to the recent heat wave in Chengdu (rather than the Scoville level of the ingredients).
The cleverly presented Handsome Devil, which Nick described as a cross between a Bee’s Knees and a spicy margarita, arrived in a tall coupe glass with two chili pepper ends perched on the rim, giving it the appearance of the devil himself. The summery strawberry component provided a strong red hue to match the evil essence of the chili horns.
The heart of this drink comes from Peddlers barrel-aged gin, infused with strawberry and bell peppers for a savory botanical base. The fire comes from a special “mala” tincture. “Mala” is the local name for the numbingly spicy gastronomical combo of the xiao mi la chili pepper, chili oil and Sichuan peppercorns. Fortunately, the additional citrus and a tea-and-honey syrup give this tipple a sweet punch, making it suitable for even for those with mild palates.
While Nick has worked in various parts of China for years, his foray into Eastern-inspired mixology got its start in his native U.S.A. During Covid, when he returned home, he spearheaded a bar in Boston called Bijou that featured Chinese spirits. His project became a niche hit with seasoned drinkers, while also raising a lot of money for a charity assisting Chinese immigrants — truly drinking for a good cause.
The Handsome Devil
45 ml strawberry- and red pepper-infused gin
15 ml pu’er tea-and-honey syrup
15 ml lemon juice
3 drops saline solution
3 drops mala tincture
Shake all ingredients together with ice. Strain and serve straight. Garnish with red chili.
