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Cocktail of the Month: Pirate’s Cocktail
May 9, 2014
•It seems that rum and pirates are like smoke and fire – you can’t find one without the other. From the earliest rum production in the 1600s in Barbados to Captain Jack Sparrow’s fondness for the spirit in Disney’s “Pirates of the Caribbean” trilogy, their history is tied together.
Today, liquor-store shelves are filled with brands of rum with pirate-themed monikers, the most popular being Captain Morgan, accounting for about a third of the premium rum market in the U.S. The real Captain Henry Morgan was legendary for his ruthlessness, his exorbitant thirst for liquor and his enormous success. But few know that he died an ugly death in Jamaica at the age of 53 from alcohol-related causes.
While it may have been rum that put the final nail in Morgan’s coffin after his Jamaica retirement, during his carousing on the high seas Morgan most likely imbibed other spirits. Preferring to plunder Spanish ships and villages, the richest of the time, he probably drank brandy and Madeira wines, the spirits that Spaniards consumed, while on the job.
Another rum named for a real-life buccaneer is Admiral Nelson. A British flag officer famous for his rousing leadership and unconventional battle tactics, Nelson was wounded in combat several times, losing an arm and his sight in one eye.
The best known and most notable of his victories was the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805, during which he was shot and killed.
Nelson’s love for rum was so fabulous that his body was preserved in a cask of rum before it was finally laid to rest. After this incident, rum was often referred to as “Nelson’s Blood.”
The rum drink most commonly associated with pirates is “grog,” which is a misnomer. Grog was invented after the decline of piracy as a form of rationing on ships of the British Navy. Pirates consumed their often crudely distilled and harsh tasting poison straight up.
If you’d like to act like a buccaneer and enjoy a tot of rum on its own, you’re in luck. In recent years, rum has been enjoying a renaissance. Many fine rums now on the market can rival the complexity and depth of a single malt Scotch. One of my favorite sipping rums is Ron Zacapa, produced in the highlands of Guatemala. This rum took the top honors for five years in a row at the International Rum Festival. It was retired in 2003 to give other spirits a chance at the grand prize. Ron Zacapa continues to be served to the judges at the competition as a benchmark.
Other aged rums I adore are Ron del Barrilito, a craft rum produced in Puerto Rico; Chairman’s Reserve from St. Lucia; Neisson Rhum Agricole from Martinque; and Mount Gay Extra Old from Barbados.
Even with these enchanting choices, many still prefer their rum in a cocktail. The Pirate Cocktail, which originated in the venerable Esquire Drink Book, is a lovely option. Essentially a rum Manhattan, this pleasant nip preserves the character of the rum. The sweet vermouth softens the alcohol while the bitters highlight the complexity of the aged spirit. It’s a perfect coming-out drink for spring: too hearty and sublime to be a frothy summer drink, but too sultry to stay inside after winter.
**Pirate’s Cocktail**
3 ounces full-flavored aged rum
1 ounce sweet vermouth
2 dashes Angostura bitters
Stir ingredients with ice and strain into
a short glass.
Treat Mom to Brunch
May 7, 2014
•Although one day a year is not enough time to thank moms for all they do, make May 11 exceptional and take mom out for brunch. Here’s what a few D.C. restaurants are serving up for Mother’s Day…
Bourbon Steak – A three-course Mother’s Day brunch menu. Sample courses: potato leek soup, pain perdu French toast and profiteroles. $95 per person, $40 per child. 2800 Pennsylvania Ave., NW. 202-944-2026
Café Milano – A brunch buffet featuring an egg station, a breakfast buffet, a raw bar, an antipasti buffet, a bread station, a pasta station, an entrée station and a dessert station. Prosecco included. $95 per person, $39 per child. 3251 Prospect St., NW. 202-333-6183
Ristorante Piccolo – A three-course Italian dinner with choice of Champagne, mimosa or Bloody Mary. Complimentary glass of Champagne for moms. Serving from 11 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. $28 per person. (A Mother’s Day dinner will be served from 3:30 to 10 p.m.) 1068 31st St., NW. 202-342-7414
The Grill Room – A brunch menu by executive chef Jakob Esko featuring New American and European flavors. Selections include orange and rye whiskey cured salmon, chopped lobster salad, rotisserie maple leaf farm duck and the Grill Room’s popular peach baked Alaska. Serving 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. $95 per person, $30 per child. 1050 31st St., NW. 202-617-2424
I-Thai – A free meal for moms on Mother’s Day weekend, courtesy of Georgetown’s newest Thai restaurant and sushi bar (reservation required). I-Thai offers a complete Japanese menu in addition to Thai favorites like I-Thai basil – think Ka Pow dishes – and mango curry. 3003 M St., NW. 202-580-8852
Teddy & the Bully Bar – A three-course menu by executive chef Demetrio Zavala with a variety of farm fresh items, including a flapjack and omelet station. Teddy’s patio will be open, weather permitting. Serving 10:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. $40 per person. 1200 19th St., NW. 202-872-8700
Walker’s Grille – A three-course prix-fixe menu of contemporary American fare, including farm vegetable gazpacho as a starter, herb crusted prime rib and chocolate paté with raspberries, hazelnuts, apricots and whipped cream. $35 per person. 6909 Metro Park Dr., Alexandria. 703-922-6200
701 Restaurant – A three-course Mother’s Day menu accompanied by live jazz. Menu options include a roasted carrot salad, branzino and coconut panna cotta. Serving 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. $45 per person. 701 Pennsylvania Ave., NW. 202-393-0701
Bombay Club– A three-course prix-fixe Indian menu. Entrees such as lamb and chana masala are available on the buffet. $39-50 per person, $54 with Champagne. 815 Connecticut Ave., NW. 202-659-3727
Latest Dish April 23
April 23, 2014
•Where could four D.C. culinary superstars – Carla Hall, Ruth Gresser, Gina Chersevani and Jeff Tunks – all work together? Reagan National Airport, aka DCA, where they will be taking off without leaving the ground. They are among the food professionals involved with the 10 new restaurants coming to Terminal A in 2015. OTG and BMG, the concessionaires tapped by the Metropolitan Washington Airports Authority, plan an expanded lineup of food, beverage and retail options (including a full-service spa!) in the nine-gate terminal. MWAA is also partnering with Cohn’s Kitchen to provide job opportunities for underserved young adults training for foodservice careers.
Chef/owner Dean Gold is opening a rustic Italian restaurant, Dino’s Grotto, on 9th Street, NW, in the Shaw neighborhood. A new incarnation of his first restaurant in Cleveland Park, it will have 120 seats on two floors. One of the main themes is sustainability, with handmade pastas and products from local and organic farms and sustainable fishers and butchers. Expect local craft brews as well as artisan Italian beers and ciders on tap. The plan is to open by the end of April.
Christophe and Michelle Poteaux plan to open a new restaurant in Alexandria’s North Old Town neighborhood, not far from their popular Bastille restaurant in Old Town. They are referring to it as Bastille 2.0. Bastille will be renamed Bistro Royal (since it is on North Royal Street) and revamped. Michelle will be able to show off her pastry skills to a greater extent at the new, 100-seat restaurant, which will serve lunch and dinner. There will be a private dining space, an outdoor patio and a wine bar. Mark Slater will run the wine and beverage program at both restaurants, which should be ready by early 2015.
Lot 31 is the new buzz in Bethesda. Passion Food Hospitality is planning its second PassionFish restaurant there, its first in Maryland, part of a luxury residential and retail development at the corner of Woodmont and Bethesda Avenues. The original PassionFish is in Reston, Va. This will be the eighth restaurant for Passion Food Hospitality (Jeff Tunks, David Wizenberg, and Gus DiMillo).
More about Lot 31: Bob Giaimo will also open a new upscale version (2.0) of Silver Diner at Lot 31. It’s abbreviated, in that the name is Silver. Farm-to-table – check. It will be slightly smaller and more urban, with more bar business focused on local craft beers and wines. Silver Diner’s signature chrome will be replaced by a warmer wood-and-stone look.
Ch-Ch-Changes: If you cannot recall the last time you went to Italian classic restaurant Da Domenico in Tysons Corner, you won’t recognize the place – from décor to menu to bar – when it completes its transformation. The 22-year-old restaurant was bought by Syed Hussain, who has a few more surprises in store. He and his son plan to reintroduce it to the community by this summer.The 22-year-old restaurant was bought by Syed Hussain, who has a few more surprises in store. He and his son plan to reintroduce it to the community by this summer.
When the Marriott Marquis Washington, D.C., opens across from the Washington Convention Center, it will feature two restaurants and three bars. Anthem, a 215-seat restaurant, will serve breakfast and lunch, including a few classic items from Marriott’s old Hot Shoppes (including the “Mighty Mo” burger). The other restaurant, to be announced, will be run by a well-known operator from outside the D.C. area. Executive chef at the Marriott Marquis is Matthew Morrison, who most recently hails from The Ritz-Carlton, Tysons Corner. On the bar side: The Dignitary (upscale), seating 99, with an outdoor patio; High Velocity, an 184-seat sports bar with 48 beers on tap; and a 139-seat Lobby Bar in the atrium. A May opening is planned.
Chef John Paul Damato will head up the kitchen at Compass Rose, slated to open in Logan Circle where Collage used to be. Damato previously worked at ThinkFoodGroup and at Restaurant Nora. Compass Rose is owned by world travelers and husband-and-wife team Rose Previte and NPR’s David Greene, so it follows that globally sourced and inspired foods, wine, beers and cocktails will be on the menu.
What was once Michel Richard’s Michel at The Ritz-Carlton, Tysons Corner, then Entyse Bistro, will now become America Eats Tavern from José Andrés. The original location was in Penn Quarter. America Eats Tavern will serve breakfast, lunch and dinner, offering an American classics menu with products from local Virginia farms.
Quick Hits: Tony Tomelden of The Pug on H Street in North East D.C. plans to open Brookland’s Finest Bar & Kitchen nearby on 12th Street, NE. Expect comfort food and an early May opening. . .Robert Wiedmaier’s empire continues to grow. His Belgium-themed Brasserie Beck at McPherson Square gets a sister operation in Gaithersburg when it takes over the O’Donnell’s Sea Grill space. . .Everlasting Life Vegan Restaurant in Capitol Heights is opening a second location next to the Takoma Metro station serving lunch and dinner. Also planned is a bakery half a block away. . .California-based Blaze Pizza plans an early summer opening at Westfield Montgomery Mall.
Chef Update: Benjamin Lambert was named executive chef for 701 Restaurant in Penn Quarter, taking over from Tony Conte, who was overseeing both the Oval Room and 701. Lambert formerly worked at D.C.’s Restaurant Nora as well as at Goodstone Inn in Middleburg. . .Med Lahlou and Antonio Matarazzo of the Lalou Group announced that Domenico Apollaro would be chef de cuisine at their 100-seat Italian restaurant Lupo Verde, on 14th and T Streets. A native of Italy, Apollaro was previously executive chef at Eat’s Easy in Milan. . .Matt Hill has been named executive chef for Arlington’s The Liberty Tavern, Lyon Hall and Northside Social. He most recently served as chef de cuisine at Range at Chevy Chase Pavilion in D.C. Prior to Range, Hill worked with the Charlie Palmer Group, first at Aureole, then at D.C.’s Charlie Palmer Steak. Miljohn Dimaano was promoted to chef de cuisine at The Liberty Tavern. . .Daniel Singhofen is chef de cuisine at Blue Duck Tavern at the Park Hyatt in D.C.’s West End. Previously, he was at Eola in Dupont Circle.
Osiris Hoil, owner of District Taco, plans to open his next location at 20th & M Streets in Dupont Circle, where Cosi used to be. Though it started out as a taco cart in Rosslyn, there are now restaurants in Arlington, Metro Center and Capitol Hill. The Dupont store will also offer full coffee service. A May opening is targeted. Osiris is scouting Northern Virginia for his next District Taco location.
Linda Roth is president of Linda Roth Associates, a public relations and marketing firm that specializes in the hospitality industry.
Restaurants Infuse ‘Cherry Picks’ into Menu 2014
April 11, 2014
•Every year the D.C. restaurant scene gets a little more creative when spring rolls around. In conjunction with the Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington, a number of Cherry Picked restaurants feature special Japanese or cherry blossom inspired menu items to embrace the spirit of the festival. Find a full list of restaurants and reservation information at [nationalcherryblossomfestival.org](http://www.nationalcherryblossomfestival.org/visitor-information/cherrypicks/)
**Entrees and Appetizers**
[Fourth Estate](http://press.org/fourthestate) at the National Press Club will feature a Brie and Prosciutto crostini with cherry chutney appetizer, and a Goat cheese stuffed Chicken Breast with Cherry and Peach Salsa entrée. Both will be served during the brunch, lunch and dinner services. 529 14th Street NW, Ste. 1300
[Ici Urban Bistro](http://www.iciurbanbistro.com/) is offering a Prosciutto wrapped asparagus poached egg, cherry jam with balsamic vinegar as an appetizer. For an entrée, Atlantic salmon couscous pistachio and dried cherries, spiced pearl onion, lemon and cilantro relish. 806 15th Street, NW
[Jaleo](http://www.jaleo.com/dc) will be offering three different dishes including: “Panceta confitada con salsa de cereza,” pork belly confit with cherry sauce and “Queso Murcia al vino tinto con mermelada de cereza y pan tostado,” which is ‘the drunken goat’ Murcia cheese with cherry marmalade and toasted bread.
[Oyamel](http://www.oyamel.com/) – Their main specialty dish for the festival will be a Chile relleno filled with a duck picadillo and topped with a cherry sauce and pomegranate seeds. 401 7th Street, NW
[Cafe Deluxe](http://www.cafedeluxe.com/)- For a lighter cherry inspired dish, they will offer the Sherry Cherry Crispy Goat Cheese Salad, which blends mixed greens with sherry soaked cherries and corn nuts all topped with sherry vinaigrette and crispy pieces of goat cheese. 3228 Wisconsin Ave NW
**Specialty Cocktails**
[District Commons](http://www.districtcommonsdc.com/district.html) – Even though we all hope the blossoms will come on time, you can still try the “Late Bloomer” which has Leopold’s Maraschino Liqueur, Leopold’s Michigan Cherry Liqueur, and Gruet Sparkling Wine. 2200 Pennsylvania Ave NW
[Acadiana](http://www.acadianarestaurant.com/acadiana.html) – The “Black Cherry Punch” features Jim Beam Red Stagg Black Cherry infused Bourbon, Combier Cherry Liqueur, club soda and simple syrup. 901 New York Avenue, NW
**Desserts**
[Georgetown Cupcake](https://www.georgetowncupcake.com/) brings back their regular cherry blossom cupcakes including the Cherry Blossom, which is a classic Madagascar bourbon vanilla cupcake baked with fresh cherries and topped with a cherry infused cream cheese frosting and a fondant cherry blossom. They will also have cherry cheesecake. 3301 M Street NW
[Ovvio Osteria](http://ovvioosteria.com/) will offer multiple cherry desserts including chocolate cherry ganache filled cupcakes, sour cherry tarts, white chocolate cherry cookies, and cherry-misu. 2727 Merrilee Drive, Merrifield, Va.
[Olivia Macaron](http://www.oliviamacaron.com/) – March flavors include Lady Grey, mimosa, Cherry Blossom, and Irish Cream. 3222 M Street NW
Fabio Trabocchi’s Fiola Mare
•
As a beach-loving kid growing up near the Adriatic Sea in the Le Marche region of central Italy, Fabio Trabocchi liked to stick his head under the water, taste the brine and spy the sea creatures in their natural habitat of rocks, sand and swaying seaweeds. That’s one source of his inspiration at Fiola Mare, the superstar chef’s new Italian seafood restaurant on Georgetown’s waterfront at Washington Harbour. For the 40-year-old Trabocchi, an all-natural approach is best.
“It’s always been my dream to cook seafood for all the creative opportunity, for the lightness,” says Trabocchi, “and it’s also healthier.” On a tour of Fiola Mare, which he opened in late February with his Spanish-born wife and business partner, Maria, Trabocchi continues: “When this opportunity came up, with the view of the water from all the large windows and the park right outside the door, it made sense that here you can experience eating by the sea as we do in Italy.” With market reports in hand and trusted fishmongers on speed dial, the critically acclaimed chef has created an ever-changing menu, reflecting his passion for the finest sustainable seafood available worldwide.
The Trabocchis like to stay busy. In 2011, the couple opened in Penn Quarter the elegant Fiola, with a menu inspired by modern Italian cuisine. Last year, near Mount Vernon Square, they welcomed diners to the more casual Casa Luca, named for their 10-year-old son, who has taken an early interest in cooking. Restaurant two is, in the chef’s words, “my family-driven Italian with dishes my father cooked.” (For our region, Fabio Trabocchi will always be hailed as the cutting-edge executive chef of Maestro at the Ritz-Carlton, Tysons Corner, where he cooked for six years in the early 2000s.)
Fiola Mare is their most ambitious venture. At 7,500 square feet, with an additional 1,800 square feet of outdoor terraces, the contemporary 140-seat main dining room feels like a sleek salon on a mega-yacht. Soothing, subtle earth tones and curving banquettes create zones of intimacy in front of an open kitchen. Regular customers have laid claim to “their tables” on the Veranda, a glass-enclosed waterside dining room with a breezy nautical decor and sweeping views along the Potomac. For private dining, there is a 12-seat chef’s table and three other airy spaces, including one with its own bar and waterfront entrance.
But any table is the perfect spot for “Under the Sea,” one of the chef’s favorite presentations. Each component dazzles the taste buds. “You see the quinoa at the bottom? That’s the sand and the maitake mushrooms are moving seaweed,” says Trabocchi, who easily mixes playfulness with an intense drive for perfection. “Like when I snorkel, under my sea there are Scottish langoustines, red spot king prawns from Australia and sea urchins from waters off Catalina Island [California]. Then I add black truffle and foie gras, as there’s a lot of surf and turf where I come from. Together, the brightness is spectacular.”
At the “Market Counter,” diners choose seasonal whole fish, which chefs then grill to order and servers debone tableside. Not to be missed is brodetto, the classic Adriatic fish stew, as well as crudo (raw fish selections), marinated and preserved fish, risotto entrees and seafood-based pasta, the latter available in half-portions. Flagship Fiola fans will find on the menu Trabocchi’s signature ginger-laced lobster ravioli and rich baba al rhum with pear and vanilla cream. Adding to the vision, the gorgeous hand-molded, sea-inspired iridescent tableware is by Alison Evans Ceramics of Yarmouth, Me.
“The idea is a palacio in Venice, spacious yet cozy. Even if you are alone, there are lots of different ambiances,” says Maria Trabocchi, who delights in her front-of-the-house work, greeting and seating. “For me, I enjoy tremendously making customers’ memories.”
Fiola Mare
Washington Harbour, 3050 K St., NW
202-628-0065
[fiolamaredc.com](http://fiolamaredc.com/)
Georgetowner dining columnist Walter Nicholls is the food critic for Arlington Magazine and a former staff writer for The Washington Post Food section.
[gallery ids="101667,144706,144695,144703,144691,144681,144676,144672,144686,144699" nav="thumbs"]Easter Brunching at Its Best
•
If Washingtonians could go pro in one thing it would be brunching. With the Easter holiday around the corner, D.C. chefs and restaurants are offering up their best mix of mid-day eats. From family friendly meals with the Easter bunny to quiet waterside venues, there’s an appealing menu for every appetite.
1789
Easter brunch at iconic 1789 includes a table side appearance of the Easter Bunny and a two-course Easter brunch menu including an asparagus and bacon tartlet with smokey blue cheese, caramelized spring onions and vincotto as a first course option and a main course selection of leg of lamb with fennel spiced yogurt, crispy chickpeas and pea shoots. Entree prices range from $28-40.
1226 36th Street NW, 202-965-1789
Billy Martin’s Tavern
Washington’s oldest family-owned restaurant, Billy Martin’s Tavern, is serving up a spinoff of their house brunch favorites. Appearing on the Easter menu is caramelized banana French toast served with brandy macerated berry compote and applewood bacon, ham or link sausage as well as Chef’s eggs benedict – a fried green tomato, topped jumbo lump crab and two poached eggs covered with hollandaise.
1264 Wisconsin Ave. NW, 202-333-7370
Brasserie Beck
Only at a Belgian restaurant are waffles a side order. Brasserie Beck’s brunch boasts traditional favorites like chicken and waffles with jalapeno maple syrup or Quiche Lorraine with farm egg custard, bacon lardons, petite green salad and sherry vinaigrette. And if waffles with a side of waffles is too much for you, try the caramelized Brussels sprouts with smoked bacon and poached pear. Entrees $14-28.
1101 K Street NW, 202-408-1717
Fiola Mare
Georgetown’s newest upscale seafood spot will be featuring a number of brunch specialties including their dangerously delicious morning pastry basket. Served with fresh fruit jams, chocolate hazelnut sauce and local honey this brunch starter will fill your carb quota for the month. A unique twist on eggs benedict is the uova in camicia – homemade biscuits topped with two poached eggs, smoked salmon and rosemary hollandaise. Enjoy the house Bellini to top off this brunch. Entrees $16-28.
3050 K Street NW, 202-628-0065
Teddy & The Bully Bar
Teddy’s Easter brunch is full of locally sourced foods from Pennsylvania and Maryland farms. Two courses, endless carving and omelet and stations, homemade ice cream cone bar and endless sides fill the menu. First course starts with the choice of fresh berries, a variety of flatbreads or grilled romaine salad. Feed your sweet tooth prior to dessert with a main course brioche s’more French toast with cinnamon French toast, melted chocolate and marshmallow fluff. $55 per person, 12 years and younger $21.
1200 19th St NW, 202-872-8700
Tony & Joe’s Seafood Place
Tony & Joe’s Seafood Place at Georgetown’s Washington Harbor will be serving up a live jazz brunch on Easter Sunday featuring the Red Velvet Trio and a seafood-filled spread complete with freshly shucked oysters and clams, poached salmon and a carving station for the land lovers. $35 per person or $45 with bottomless mimosas.
3000 K Street NW, 202-944-4545
Malmaison
Easter brunch at Malmaison will feature foods across the board from salads to savory crepes to eggs served up a variety of ways with sautéed duck fat potatoes. One of the creative brunch cocktail is the Bubbly Bun – cinnamon infused whiskey, maple syrup, champagne and flamed orange. Entrees $12.95-25.95
3401 K Street NW, 202-817-3340 [gallery ids="101693,143940,143943" nav="thumbs"]
Town House Not Making a Home in Georgetown
March 13, 2014
•Chef John Shields’s plans to move into Georgetown have fallen through. Shields told the Washington Post: “We couldn’t make the numbers work” for his projected space at 1050 Potomac St., NW.
The restaurant in the works was never named but was planned to be an extension of his Chilhowie, Va., restaurant, Town House, which closed two years ago. Shields and Karen Urie Shields, his wife and pastry chef, are still searching for space in Washington, but the couple is heading back to Virginia to offer dinners at Riverstead, the intimate inn that lodged Town House goers.
The chef duo originally hail from Chicago and are renowned for their work at Charlie Trotter’s and Alinea.
The couple’s first dinner at Riverstead will be held April 18 and will offer more than a dozen courses for $150, the Post reported. The dinners will no doubt be exclusive as the Victorian farmhouse that houses Riverstead. Built in 1903 and renovated in 2009, it can accommodate a mere 14 guests. Chilhowie is approximately five hours from Georgetown.
“We are still fully committed to getting the D.C. restaurant off the ground,” Shields told the Post, “but at least this will get us back in the mix.”
Your Most Burning Wine Question Answered
March 3, 2014
•I am often asked to conduct tastings or classes for people who want to learn more about wine –or at least gain a greater appreciation for it. And I often get some really great questions, things that people have wanted to know for years but have been afraid to ask. So, to help demystify wine, I’m going to answer some of the most frequently asked questions here…
Are ratings or wine scores a good guide to whether a wine will be good?
Think of wine ratings or scores like movie ratings. Sometimes they can be really subjective and inaccurate and sometimes they are spot-on. Absent any other information, they might be helpful to you when choosing between two similar wines on the shelf in the wine shop, but I like to say: form your own opinion and drink what you like.
Do I need a different glass for each type of wine?
No. Although you can invest in every type of wine glass from Riesling to Bordeaux, it’s not necessary when you are starting out. A basic white wine glass or an all-purpose wine glass is fine to begin with. Let your collection of glasses grow with your tastes and knowledge. The more advanced wine taster will notice how the shape of the glass improves the enjoyment of the wine, but if you are a novice, don’t stress yourself out trying to complete your set.
Can I leave my red wine at room temperature?
Actually, no. Red wines will benefit from a slight cooling-off. Room temperature here in the U.S. is typically too warm to really enjoy reds as they were intended. At home, pop your reds into the fridge for 15-20 minutes before serving.
Are screw caps OK?
Yes, in fact some winemakers think the metal screw cap is the ideal closure, ensuring that the wine gets to the consumer in the best condition. It is commonly thought that screw caps are good closures for everyday drinking wines, i.e., about 98 percent of the wine sold – what you will commonly find in the local wine shop and grocery store. But some believe that long, natural corks are the best closure for wine made to age. The natural cork allows the impartation of a certain amount of air into the wine. This is part of the aging process that gives aged wine its character.
What’s the best way to start learning about wine?
I always recommend that students taste different wines at every opportunity. It’s easy to find a wine you like and stick to that. However, you will never expand your knowledge and train your palate to detect different flavors that way. When you go to a restaurant, order a different glass of something or ask if you can taste several wines before settling on one.
Does a high price guarantee that I’ll like the wine?
No, a high retail price might be an indicator of quality or of the popularity of a wine. It has no bearing on whether you will like it. Don’t discount reasonably priced wines. There are some great buys out there.
How do I get wine stains off clothes?
Try pouring a small amount of rubbing alcohol on the stain, with a white cloth underneath to absorb the stain. If the stain remains, try mixing hydrogen peroxide and Dawn dish liquid into a solution and spot-cleaning with this.
What are wine clubs and should I join one?
Generally, there are two types of wine clubs. The first type is run by individual wineries. It allows their customers to buy directly from them through the mail, thus cutting out the middlemen. If you like a particular wine or winery, this is a good option for you. You sign up for their mailing list of releases and, as a club member, you usually get first dibs on purchasing the upcoming vintages. The other type of club is run by a wine merchant or a retailer. You pay a fee to have their selection of wines sent to you monthly or quarterly. This type of club is good for beginning wine drinkers who want to get broad exposure to wines and don’t know what they like yet.
I hope this clears up some of the questions you, too, might have had about wine, and gets you ready to embark on your next great wine experience. Cheers!
If you have more questions, follow me on Twitter: @sharisheffield
The Latest Dish- February 26, 2014
February 28, 2014
•Matchbox Food Group is on a roll – or a tidal wave, as the case may be. Their classic comfort-food concept, Ted’s Bulletin, kicked off February with an opening in Reston Town Center where Uno’s used to be. Matchbox Food Group veteran Jacob Hunter is their opening executive chef. Kelsey Pitta has moved up to pastry chef, handling the new location as well as the Ted’s Bulletin locations on Capitol Hill and 14th Street.
Chef and Manager Updates: Josh Fatemi has been named bar manager for the new cocktail program on the first floor of Roofers Union in Adams Morgan. Previously, he was at Pearl Dive Oyster Palace and Black Jack and Bourbon. . .Vanessa Ochotorena has been named pastry chef for Roofers Union as well as its big sister, Ripple. She trained at Ripple under Alison Reed and Marjorie Meek-Bradley. Giovanni Carlo, former chef of Panache in Tysons Corner, is now the chef at Ovvio in Merrifield, Va. He had worked under Roberto Donna at Galileo. . .Bluejacket Brewery has a new beer brewer, Owen Miller, who joins beer director Greg Engert as well as Bobby Bump and Josh Chapman on the Bluejacket brewing team.
Upcoming Openings: A new Cafe Deluxe is slated to open in early May in D.C.’s West End in the Hilton Garden Inn currently under construction. This will be the fifth Cafe Deluxe. Other locations include Cleveland Park, Tysons Corner, Bethesda and Gaithersburg…Bryan Voltaggio is planning to open Lunchbox at the Chevy Chase Pavilion in late summer, bringing yet another of his concepts to the D.C. market His Range eatery is already at that property. Heavy Seas Alehouse in Rosslyn plans to open by the end of February. . .A new restaurant and club called Mpire Club is slated to open near Dupont Circle by the end of the first quarter of 2014.
Helen Wasserman of Helen’s Catering plans to take over the Rockville location where Addie’s used to be. With her headwaiter, Kevin Bullock, she will open Crave by Helen, featuring an “East meets West” menu. Helen owned and operated Helen’s on D.C.’s 18th St., NW, in the mid-1980s. The caterer envisions nights devoted to Asian cooking, dishes from El Salvador and meals prepared for take-out. The plan is to extend the front of Addie’s, adding a catering kitchen (as her site in D.C. will close) and a smoker. A spring 2014 opening is planned.
By popular (healthy food) demand, Eamonn’s A Dublin Chipper in Arlington will be morphing into Society Fair, their market, butchery and bakery by the end of the month. Todd Thrasher, Cathal Armstrong and their partners plan to expand the concept beyond Old Town Alexandria and Arlington.
Just Opened: Rí Rá in Georgetown just opened on M Street where Mie N Yu used to be. The Irish pub got a head start on St. Patrick’s Day. . .Miami-based Joe’s Seafood, Prime Steak and Stone Crab just opened in downtown D.C. at 15th and H Sts., NW… .Au Bon Pain opened a new café in D.C. at 801 17th St., NW (in Lafayette Tower at the corner of 17th and H Streets). It is the 21st Au Bon Pain café to open in the metro area. . .Smashburger recently opened in Tysons Corner and in Gainesville, Va. . .Johnny Rockets’ newest restaurant opened at Tanger Outlets at National Harbour.
What’s Cooking, Neighbor? Teresa Velazquez
February 27, 2014
•No matter what the occasion – a birthday, staff gathering or family reunion – Teresa Velazquez dusts the kitchen counter top with flour and makes her have-to-have pizza from scratch. The main course is most often a pie topped with assorted vegetables and pepperoni. But first in the oven goes an “appetizer pizza” covered with caramelized onion and goat cheese, everyone’s party-starting preference.
“It’s very rich, and you don’t want to eat five slices of it,” says Velazquez, co-owner of the Georgetown coffee bar and bakery destination Baked & Wired, which she opened with her husband Tony in 2001. (She traces her love of pizza-making to her hometown of Columbus, Ohio, where her German-Irish parents ran a weekend-only pie shop called “Teresa’s Pizza.”) Anticipating the all-pizza menu, guests gather at the couple’s wood frame farmhouse on lower Foxhall Road.
Velazquez is better known for the hand-crafted small batch fruit pies, cupcakes, brownies and cookies, available at Baked & Wired and shipped nationwide. Our favorite (and her choice as well) is the buttery, sweet and salty “Bee Sting” shortbread bar with a honey almond topping. Just as exceptional is the shop’s addictive golden crisp “Hippie Crack” granola, loaded with bits of tart dried cherries and Turkish apricots.
Over the last decade, the family business, tucked away on Thomas Jefferson Street, has grown significantly and now has more than 40 employees. Teresa directs baking quality control, while Tony oversees what she calls “our evolving direction of business.” Son Zak, 26, is in charge of the coffee program and daughter Tessa, 24, handles social media and marketing.
Their success has much to do with attention to detail, the high quality of the baked goods and the shop’s mellow atmosphere. “We are extremely neighborhood-focused and feel we are part of Georgetown,” she says. “That’s tremendously important to us.” More and more tourists are stopping in for a slice of quiche and a ice cream sandwich. Word has spread. In the August issue of Travel & Leisure magazine, B & W was named one of “America’s Best Bakeries.”
For home entertaining, chef Velazquez always presents the pizza pies on a classic John Boos & Company butcher block cutting board, sliced into 3-inch squares. Wedges don’t cut it. “It’s a regional thing,” says Velazquez. “That’s how we do it in Ohio.
CARAMELIZED ONION GOAT CHEESE PIZZA
Ingredients:
For the dough:
1 3/4 cups warm water (100 to 110 degrees)
1 envelope (2-1/4 teaspoons) active dry yeast
2 teaspoons sugar
2 tablespoons mild olive oil, plus more for bowl, sheet pan and cooked pizza
4 cups bread flour, preferable King Arthur
2 teaspoons kosher salt
About 1 cup whole wheat flour, but depends on dough, you can use the bread flour but the whole wheat gives dough a hint of a nutty flavor)
For the topping:
3 large yellow onions about 1 1/2 pounds
5 to 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons finely chopped garlic
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 tablespoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cups shredded fontina cheese
1 1/2 cups packaged shredded Italian mix cheese
4 ounces goat cheese
1/3 cup pine nuts
Baby arugula (optional)
Directions:
Prepare the dough: In a small bowl, mix together the warm water, yeast and sugar. Let sit for about 15 minutes until a layer of foam has accumulated on the surface. Mix in 1 tablespoon of the oil.
In a large bowl, whisk together the bread flour and salt. Slowly add the yeast mixture to the flour, stirring to combine. Once flour is incorporated, dust work surface with some of the whole wheat flour and transfer the dough mixture to the floured surface. Knead, adding more flour if necessary, until the dough comes together is a spongy ball that can hold its shape but is still is slightly sticky. Do not over knead.
Coat bowl with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Place the dough in the bowl and turn the dough over to thoroughly coat with the oil. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let the dough rise until double in size, 1 1/2 to 2 hours.
Prepare the topping: Heat 3 tablespoons of the oil in a large nonstick sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the onions, sugar and salt and adjust the heat to medium. Cook, stirring every couple of minutes, until the onions are soft and have turned a light golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Set aside to cool.
Assemble the pizza: Adjust the oven racks so one is in the lower third of the oven. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Use 2 tablespoons of the oil to lightly grease a 12-by-16-inch rimmed silver baking sheet, or one of similar size, a dark sheet will cook the bottom of the pie too fast.
Dust the work surface with whole wheat flour as needed. Transfer the dough to the floured surface and knead 3 or 4 times to remove any air pockets. Let rest 5 minutes. Using your hands, spread the dough out in the pan, gently pushing it into place to form an even layer. If the dough resists, let it rest for a few minutes and try again. Let rest 15 minutes.
When the dough is ready, drizzle a thin coat of olive oil over the surface of the dough. Distribute the chopped garlic and red pepper flakes, sprinkle on fontina and Italian cheeses. Top with the caramelized onions. Place pieces of goat cheese on top and then sprinkle with the pine nuts.
Transfer to the preheated oven and bake for about 10 minutes until the edges start to get golden and the crust is firm enough to be moved off the pan. Remove from the oven, loosen the pizza from pan with a large flat spatula and slide pizza directly back onto the oven rack. Bake for 10 minutes until crust is brown. Remove from oven and place on a cooling rack for at least 5 minutes. Lightly drizzle top with olive oil and, if desired, top with the baby arugula.Slide onto cutting board and cut into squares.