Food

Ari Post • May 3, 2012

As a holiday gift to our readers, chef and restaurateur Ris Lacoste wanted to answer your culinary queries. Thanks to everyone who wrote in with their questions. Here are our answers, which we hope will help you through the holiday season with a few new tricks up your sleeves. For more Q&A visit us at Georgetowner.com.

Dear Ris…
I’m thrilled to see golden beets in the produce aisle, and I love to roast ‘em. Do you have any ideas for seasoning them or for pairing them with other vegetables? –Victoria, Eastern Market

Beets are like candy to me, and I try and think of them as such. They mix so well with almost anything, to decadent conclusions. I like mixing them with citrus, goat cheese, arugula, walnuts and sherry. One of my favorite ways to eat them is roasting them and serving with sweet pickled herring, brown bread, apples and horseradish cream.
The real beauty of golden beets, if you ask me, is that their colors don’t run like their red counterparts. This paves the way for many visual possibilities.
Beet vinaigrette is a refreshing addition to salads, grilled fish and roasted vegetables. Just roast, peel and dice a handful of beets and mix with the vinaigrette—pretty simple! Here are a couple tasty ways to go about the dressing:

1. Mix with equal parts sherry vinegar and walnut oil, and season with salt and pepper.

2. Mix with ginger juice, rice wine vinegar, mirin, a balance of sugar and a dash of oil.

If salt acts to move water across membranes, how is it that brining results in a moister turkey?
–Margaret, Woodstock, VA

Whether we’re talking turkey or any other type of lean poultry or pork, here is the basic rundown of the brining process:

Brining will result in a better-seasoned, moister cut of meat. It disrupts the structure of the muscle filaments in the protein cells, a process known as denaturing. The water, carrying the salt, sugar and all the flavorings, is diffused from the brine into the meat, and the interactions of the salt and proteins result in a greater water-holding capacity in the muscle cells.

As the salty water is absorbed, the meat’s weight increases with moisture content. In the cooking process, all meat loses weight in moisture, thus in brined meats, the loss of moisture is significantly decreased. And because brines work from the outside in, they have their earliest and strongest effects on the areas most likely to be overcooked: the meat closest to the outside. So even a brief, incomplete soaking can make a big difference.

As a chef, my knowledge of brining comes from practical experience and results. To help explain this process, I relied on Harold McGee’s “On Food and Cooking” and “Cook’s Illustrated” magazine, both great sources for the science of cooking. I cannot recommend them enough for anyone interested in the “hows” and “whys” of the kitchen.

Do you have any ideas for raw dishes using winter fruits and vegetables? My mom makes a raw cranberry sauce that’s to die for, and I’m wondering what other possibilities are out there.
–Mema, Paoli, PA

I couldn’t agree more about raw cranberry dressing—it really is something special. I had a delicious variation this Thanksgiving made with lemon juice and jalepenos. Here are some other raw winter vegetable recipes that will hopefully keep you happy until the spring harvest:

Brussels sprout coleslaw: shred Brussels sprouts as you would cabbage and mix with your favorite coleslaw dressing. Voila! My go-to coleslaw dressing is a mix of mayo, tarragon vinegar, sugar, fennel seed, caraway seed, salt, pepper, and I usually throw in julienned carrots and scallions.

Celery root remoulade: julienne celery root and mix with capers, lemon, tarragon, mayo, salt and pepper. If you want something a bit sweeter, toss in julienned apples, sweet pickles and cider reduction mayonnaise (reduce apple cider by half, chill, and add to mayo to taste). It is great with pork chops and roast chicken, and crab cakes in the summer. This dressing would also be great with the Brussels sprouts. Think about adding walnuts. Be creative!

Baby kale salad with a honey mustard dressing is also a tasty—and exceedingly healthful—winter treat. Almost nothing beats the nutritional value of raw kale. It’s really a super food, and if you can find it fresh at a farmer’s market, it is very tender. Add to it roasted beets and goat cheese for a wonderful winter lunch.

You can also take celery root, cauliflower or carrots, cut them into chunks or thin rounds, and dress them with straight vinaigrette with an extra dash of vinegar and let them soak for an hour, then season to taste with salt and pepper. The copious amount of acid “cooks” the vegetables, and the result is a bright flavor combined with a fabulous crunch. Use as a side salad to anything.

With Christmas coming, the biggest challenge for me is planning the food! Do you have any holiday menu items that have components you can prepare ahead of time? Even things for meals on Dec 23rd or 27th would be great. I have two young children that want my attention, and a mother-in-law who is very critical. So if I can have the food set so that I can be with my kids while appeasing the M-I-L, life would be much smoother!
–Susie, Durham, NC

That’s a tall order, for sure! First things first: I’d have a pot of soup on the stove and crusty bread ready to go. Any hearty soup with good bread is a failsafe method to satisfy the stomach and the soul.
Also, always keep some house-made vinaigrette on hand to pour over raw vegetables, salads, or use as a marinade for chicken and meat. Something as simple as that lifts ordinary dinners and lunches into the realm of real cuisine.

Now, as for appeasing the kids and the in-law… My advice would be to make something that can be stored in the freezer, so on the day of all you have to do is throw it in the oven, spend time with your family, and pull it out when it’s ready to eat. A good mushroom-spinach lasagna or a sweet potato lasagna with parmesan, ricotta and tomato are good options. You can even portion out servings in mini loaf pans when you first cook it, and reheat them as needed.

As a roast option that is fabulous for entertaining, might I recommend my individual, make-ahead Beef Wellingtons with mushroom, spinach and blue cheese stuffing. This dish really works—I’m planning to serve it on Christmas Eve at my restaurant. They’re an elegant dinner that your mother in law will love, and you can make and freeze them well in advance.

For the recipe, go to FineCooking.com and enter “Ris Lacoste, Beef Wellington” into the search bar. I wrote the column a few years ago, but I still rely on it all the time, and the recipe has never changed. Best of luck!

I host a holiday dinner party every year for about 40 people, and I’m always so focused on the meal that I neglect to put out anything exciting to munch on while everyone is mingling and sipping cocktails. I need a couple of hors d’oeuvre ideas that can be assembled quickly, aren’t too messy to eat, and will impress my guests!
– Caroline, Annapolis, MD

Passing by your local cheese shop is a great place to start. My standby, no-work, go-to starter is pairing a fabulous cheese with dried figs, olives, Marcona almonds, salamis, Dijon mustard and a baguette. The key here is searching out the right ingredients, finding a balance between the sweet, salty and savory. It is elegant and simple—exactly what a busy hostess needs.

Cowgirl Creamery, Cheesetique, and Whole Foods Georgetown are three of my favorite cheese shops in the area.

If you feel like doing a little more work, one bite of heaven that I rarely forgo is my salmon rillettes.
These are quick-to-make, delicious hors d’oeuvres, the recipe for which you can easily adjust to serve any number of people. Your guests won’t be able to stay away from them. Follow this basic:

Ris’ Salmon Rillettes
The basic ratios for this recipe are equal parts smoked salmon and fresh salmon fillet, and ¼ of the total salmon weight in room temperature salted butter. For example: ½ lb. smoked salmon / ½ lb. fresh salmon / ¼ lb. butter.

Gently roast the fresh salmon with olive oil, lemon, salt, pepper and fresh thyme. Refrigerate until ready to use. Finely dice the smoked salmon, place in a large bowl, and use your hands to mash together with the room temperature butter, until the mixture is homogenous. Flake the chilled roasted salmon into the bowl, without mixing. Add lemon zest, lemon juice, lots of fresh diced shallots, chopped chives, salt, pepper, a dash of Tabasco, and mayonnaise—preferably homemade lemon mayo with a touch of Dijon. Mix and fold very gently, ensuring the flakes of fresh salmon remain intact, thus creating the “rillettes” effect. All seasonings need to be adjusted depending on the volume of salmon.

Place the rillettes on a buttered, toasted slice of baguette with a fork, making sure to maintain the salmon’s flaky texture. Garnish with a slice of cornichon, and a dill sprig if desired. The acidity of the cornichon cuts through the richness of the rillettes to give it a wonderful bite.
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Georgetowner •

Rogue 24

You can get “A Taste of Rogue 24: New Year’s Eve” and celebrate the New Year at a cocktail party with James Beard and award-winning Chef RJ Cooper. Mixologist Derek Brown makes an appearance here, too, supplying the beautifully blended drinks and bubbly. The party lasts from 10 p.m. to 2 a.m. and tickets are $150 a head. Go to Rogue24.com to buy yours. Beforehand, the restaurant will be serving its signature 24-course dinner from 5 to 10 p.m. Call 202-408-9724 to make reservations.
922 N Street NW (Rear)

The Passenger

In the swanky and private Columbia Room at The Passenger, restaurant owner and master mixologist Derek Brown, along with Chef Joe Rumberger, will be hosting a special New Year’s Eve Dinner. For $150 per person, enjoy a five-course meal in this intimate setting. Although there are two seatings at 6 and 9 p.m., space is very limited and sure to fill up fast. Go to PassengerDC.com to buy tickets.
If you don’t make it in time, don’t fear. Up front in The Passenger, a $10 cover charge at the door will get you the entertainment of a live DJ and a champagne toast at midnight.
1021 7th Street, NW

Fiola

$200 per person is a small price to pay when it comes to to-die-for Italian cuisine. This New Year’s Eve at Fiola, feast on a five-course tasting menu with wine pairings, including Aspic of Dungeness Crab and Norcia Black Truffle, Foie Gras and Artichoke Hearts, and Roman Style Duck “Apicius” and Griottines Cherry. Yum. Go to FiolaDC.com to make reservations. Tables are filling up quickly!
601 Pennsylvania Avenue NW

Pearl Dive

Pearl Dive is celebrating its first New Year’s Eve in the District in style with its “Black Jack/Pearl Dive New Year’s Eve Party,” which is hosted in collaboration with Black Jack, its chic upstairs neighbor. The party will feature two DJ’s, a dance party upstairs, lounge atmosphere downstairs and two open bars (one for liquor and one for oysters). Doors will open at 8 p.m. and don’t close till 2:30 a.m., and only 300 tickets are available. But hurry! On Dec. 15 the price increases from $150 to $175 per person.
1612 14th St NW

Hudson

Fittingly named for the English navigator and explorer Henry Hudson, Hudson Restaurant & Lounge is always looking toward the horizon in search of unique, contemporary cuisine. However, on New Years Eve, Hudson is looking back to the 1960s, with a “Mad Men New Years Eve” party. This one-of-a-kind bash will include an open bar, appetizers and a champagne toast to ring in 2012—or 1963—in style. There’s never been a better excuse to dust off that pinstripe suit and polyester dress. The theme is optional, but please keep it classy. Get your ticket before December 20th and get $20 off. Tickets after December 20 are $120.
1425 P Street, NW

The Source

In conjunction with the Newseum’s New Year’s Eve Headliners Ball, The Source is offering a seven-course prix fixe dinner featuring their signature pan-Asian cuisine. Tickets to the ball are $180 for museum members and $195 for non-members; the festivities go on all night from 8 p.m. to 2 a.m. Of course, guests who aren’t attending the ball are welcome at The Source – call 202-637-6100 to make your reservations.
575 Pennsylvania Avenue NW

Bistro du Coin

Any Francophile knows that Bistro du Coin offers the most authentic French experience in DC. The house wine by the glass, the noisy atmosphere and the frenetic hustle and bustle—not to mention the cassoulet—transport guests around the world. And on New Year’s, they up the ante. Come drink, dine and dance like an expatriate in the 1920s. Who knows—have enough fun and you might even run into Papa Hemingway.
1738 Connecticut Avenue NW

Bourbon Steak

Dave Varley, Executive Chef of Bourbon Steak, is a master of his domain. His fish and beef plates are some of the city’s best, so why not luxuriate in the world class comfort cuisine on New Year’s Eve? The restaurant is offering two seatings with set menus. The first seating is $90 per person, and the second seating is $175 per person. Get your reservations before they run out!
2800 Pennsylvania Avenue NW

Graffiato

Head to Graffiato in Chinatown, where acclaimed chef Mike Isabella will be serving “dinner as usual”—which is far from ordinary—starting at 5:00 p.m. Make a toast with the prosecco on tap, and warm up with a signature Hot in the City cocktail, made with house-pressed pear cider, Jefferson’s Rye, winter spices and an apple chip. New Year’s Eve reservations can only be made by calling 202.289.3600.
707 6th St NW

Cafe Milano

Café Milano will be serving their upscale Italian cuisine when the ball drops, offering two seatings on New Year’s Eve, at 6:00 p.m. and 9:00 p.m. The 6 o’clock seating lets you choose from the restaurant’s a la carte menu. The 9 o’clock seating, at $125 a head, offers a multiple-course set menu and includes New Year’s champagne. A DJ and live band will be performing, and a surprise theme is in the works.
3251 Prospect Street NW
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Miss Dixie •

It’s the season of giving — and the daunting task of finding the perfect gift for everyone on your list. In today’s era of instant gratification and over-the-top consumption, it can be a backbreaking chore to find an original offering for people who seem to have it all. Fortunately for me, a cocktail lover, most of my friends enjoy a well-crafted drink as much as I do. So, I base my shopping list on a few key elements for creating a delicious tipple. Here are my top five gift picks for cocktail lovers:

1. Bluecoat Gin – The gin market is hot once again, with the emergence of the “American-Style” gin, which boasts softer juniper notes and a mix of botanicals and citrus flavors. Distilled in Philadelphia, Bluecoat is my favorite out of the new crop of craft gins. It has a strong floral character and finishes with slightly sweet touch. I’ve always loved gin and tonics during the holidays — the piney juniper flavor always reminds me of Christmas trees (And my Uncle Joe who had a bar and slot machine in his basement). Mix this spirit for a classic G&T, and let the complexity of Bluecoat shine through. Bluecoat is packaged in an exquisitely patterned royal blue bottle that makes it as elegant on the outside as it is on the inside.

2. St Germain – This liqueur set the cocktail world on fire after its introduction in 2007. Made from elderflower blossoms, St Germain boasts a truly unique flavor that’s hard to put a finger on – think honeysuckle or a fresh spring meadow. Plus, there’s a cute story about how the delicate elderflowers bloom for only a few weeks each year in the Alps and are hand-picked by harvesters who transport them to market on their specially rigged bicycles at their peak. Mix this liqueur with a sparking wine for a festive bubbly tipple – it’s an easy drink that’s both sophisticated and refreshing. The bottle is crafted in art nouveau style that would make a classy addition to any home bar.

3. Domain de Canton – Forged from baby Vietnamese ginger, Cognac. Tahitian vanilla, Provencal honey, and Tunisian ginseng, Domain de Canton will add an exotic twist to your drink repertoire. This spicy liqueur will lend a dash of winter warmth and spice to many classic cocktails. Use it in a Cosmopolitan to make a cozy ginger-cranberry holiday treat perfect for snuggling by the fire. The bottle is crafted formed to resemble an oversized stock of bamboo — very modern and chic.

4. Ultimat Vodka – While most cocktail snobs will turn their nose up at vodka, you can’t deny this versatile spirit makes a good gift for those who do not enjoy strong-favored liquors. Brought to you by the same people who made Patron tequila a status symbol, Ultimat is distilled from three sources — wheat, rye and potatoes — then blended. Serve this one straight up in a chilled martini with a twist of lemon. It’s packaged in a hand-blown cobalt blue crystal decanter.

5. Buffalo Trace Single Oak Project Bourbon – This one will appeal to both the bourbon lover and the scientist. This limited edition collection started off as an experiment of sorts. According to Buffalo Trace, 96 American oak trees were individually selected from the Missouri Ozarks. The trees differed according to the number of growth rings per inch and growing location. Each tree was then cut into two parts — top and bottom — yielding 192 unique tree sections. A single barrel was constructed from each unique section. These single oak barrels were then filled with different recipe whiskeys, at various entry proofs and aged in a variety of different warehouse styles. Now, more than a decade later, each of these bourbons are available in individually hand-numbered bottles that whiskey aficionados can collect, compare and contrast. Or you can just make fantastic Manhattan.

The Manhattan

• 2 oz Bourbon
• 1/2 oz sweet vermouth
• 2-3 dashes Angostura bitters
• Maraschino cherry for garnish

Pour the ingredients into a mixing glass with ice cubes. Stir well. strain into chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a cherry.

These and many other gift ideas are available at Dixie Liquor at 3429 M Street in Georgetown.
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Ari Post •

The history of oatmeal is a modest and uneventful affair. It was never worth its weight in gold, like salt. It was never fabled to have mystic healing properties, like beetroot or ginger. The bible does not allude to it, as with bread and fish. In fact, in Greek and Roman times, oats were considered a diseased form of wheat. Until the late 19th century, they were nothing more than economic sustenance for northern European peasants and animal feed.

But like a man whose steady greatness slowly reveals itself in his maturity, oatmeal emerges as a sort of existential hero: hearty, decent and strong. Its status has grown over time, and today it frequents breakfast tables throughout the world, appreciated for its high fiber, iron and protein content, its ability to fight heart disease and its unrivaled wholesomeness

“It’s on the list of top five foods to fight heart disease,” says chef and restaurateur Ris Lacoste. “Oats are the definition of ‘whole food’ — there’s nothing in it but whole grain. And that’s what wholesome is: good for your heart, body and soul.”

One reason it’s so satisfying is that it keeps you full, she says. “In the crazy world that we live in, it’s important to have a meal in the morning that keeps you satisfied and steady and warms you so entirely.” For all people who lead fast-paced lives, it is very important to feed your system with something healthful and substantial each day.

“I was sent off to school every day in the winter with a bowl of warm oatmeal in me,” says Ris. “I continue that practice to this day, along with a cup or two of good coffee. It energizes me, fills me up and warms my soul.”

“As a chef, I also end up tasting and consuming more fat in a given day than most people,” she continues. “It just comes with the territory: I have to do a lot of tasting on the job. So the cholesterol-reducing properties in oatmeal is a huge bonus.”

Oats are a grass that gradually came under cultivation at the same time as wheat and barley. They require a good deal of moisture to grow and do best in wet climates. Once they take root, they grow like weeds. The whole grain that oatmeal comes from is called a groat, the inner portion of the oat kernel. Steel-cut oats, also known as coarse-cut oats, are made by cutting up groats into two or three pieces.

By contrast, your standard rolled oats are whole kernels of groats that are steamed to make them soft and malleable, then pressed between rollers to make them thin and quick to reabsorb water during cooking.

Ris prefers steal-cut oats for their nutty aromas, fabulous texture and earthy, well-rounded flavors. Not that there is anything wrong with rolled oats, Ris says. “But needless to say, the less you have to process a natural ingredient, the better it will taste and the more nutrition it will hold onto. That’s why steel-cut oats have more flavor, as well as more antioxidant properties — they’re just that much less processed, and that much closer to a raw, natural oat seed.”

The only deterrent of steel-cut oats might be their longer cooking time. “But it’s absolutely worth the wait,” says Ris. But if you don’t have the time, there’s an easy option. “Just make a big batch on Sunday night and reheat a little each morning, or eat them cold as a snack. Package them with blueberries and almonds to take with you. They will hold up in the refrigerator for several days. When heated up on the stovetop for a couple minutes, you’ll never know the difference.”

“But another reason to talk about oats — other than their economy and nutrition — is that they are delicious!” Ris says. “That smooth, thick consistency is so pleasantly rich and heartwarming. They are compatible with an array of flavors. You can add almost anything to them and they will taste great, leaving you with not a reason in the world to be bored with breakfast.”

In the summer months, Ris recommends adding ripe melons and berries. “The bright sweetness of melons and the juicy, sweet depth of berries both complement the nutty, earthy flavors of oatmeal wonderfully,” she says.

And in the winter, where we find ourselves now, oatmeal shines. It is perhaps the perfect dish to help face the cold world each morning. Just add cooked apples, raisins and nuts. “And don’t forget a pinch of maple syrup or dash of brown sugar,” Ris adds.

Some other unique pairings for oatmeal include:

Milk and brown sugar and buttered oatmeal toast for dipping.

Honey and figs.

Pomegranate molasses and toasted walnuts. If the pomegranate is too tart, a dash of cane sugar will balance it out.

Stirring in a bit of coconut milk and top with toasted coconut, fresh ripe mango and a sprinkle of sugar (if using unsweetened coconut milk).

If you’re like the author, you also want your first meal of the day to be a bit of a health bomb. My default oatmeal toppings are slivered raw almonds (get them in the baking section), flax seed for omega 3, a bit of honey and the smallest crack of black pepper, which gives it the faintest zing.

“It’s also worth noting,” says Ris, “that no matter how you make your oats, a healthy pinch of salt is a must. When you think about the salt in cereal, eggs, bread and other breakfast staples, it’s perfectly natural. Salt brings out the flavor of anything, and that goes for oatmeal, too.”

Of course, there is a lot more to do with oats than just whip up oatmeal. They are a surprisingly versatile ingredient. As an obvious example that everyone loves, there are oatmeal cookies. (By the way, if you haven’t had a Kayak Cookies Salty Oats cookie at Teaism, you don’t know what you’re missing.) Most granola bars also have an oatmeal base.

“And just as with cookie dough,” says Ris, “you can add rolled oats to waffle or pancake batter, muffins—basically any baked goods. Oats have a softening effect by nature because they absorb and hold the moisture so well. Added to bread dough, they bring a nice, soft crumble, an ethereal sweetness and a bit of chew.”

And they have the same tenderizing effects with meats and savory items when used as a filler or binder. They help retain the juices in the meat and thereby keep things moist. In Ireland and Scotland, oats were used as filler for many dishes—think haggis, for instance. And this was before its health benefits were known. It was just used to fill more mouths, multiply and extend the meal, like rice or bread. And the Scottish are certainly known for being hearty and strong — this may be a reason why.

Adding oats as a binder in meats may require different levels of cooking and doneness, which is usually only perfected through experimentation and preference. “I prefer the texture oatmeal gives to a recipe,” says Ris. “Use oatmeal to bind meatballs or veggie burgers. It’s a whole grain that works in place of processed flour, bread or crackers. They are a much smarter, healthier and tastier option. But do remember that they absorb moisture during cooking so you may need to adjust your recipes.”

Ris will state here that one of the secrets of her great Monday meatloaf special is using oatmeal as a binder. “It’s how my mother made it,” she smiles.

Oatmeal bread is also one of her favorite sandwich breads. Joan Nathan, a friend and fellow chef, makes an oatmeal loaf with fig, anise and walnuts, which is a wonderful compliment to Ris’s chicken salad. It accents the apricots and grapes in the salad perfectly. Make them both, and see how good “whole food” can be.

For more from Joan Nathan, including her cookbook “Quiches, Kugels, and Couscous: My Search for Jewish Cooking in France,” from which this recipe is excerpted, visit JoanNathan.com.

Joan Nathan’s Oatmeal Bread with Fig, Anise and Walnuts
Yields 2 loaves of bread. For a single loaf, cut ingredient proportions by half.

2 tbsp. active dry yeast
½ cup honey
2 cups old-fashioned rolled oats
1 cup steel-cut oats
1 cup toasted wheat germ
1 tbsp. kosher salt
2 tsp. anise seeds
1 cup roughly chopped walnuts
1 cup diced dried figs
2 cups whole-wheat flour
4 cups all-purpose flour, plus more as needed

Dissolve the yeast in 3 cups lukewarm water in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a dough hook. Once it is dissolved, turn the mixer on low and slowly add the honey, rolled oats, steel-cut oats, wheat germ, salt, anise seeds, walnuts and dried figs. Stir in the whole-wheat flour and 3½ cups of the all-purpose flour and knead.

Place in a large greased bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let rise for 1 hour, or until it is doubled in volume. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Grease a baking sheet, or line it with parchment paper.

Punch down the dough and turn it out onto a lightly floured surface. Divide it in half and form two round loaves. Place them on the baking sheet and make a few long, shallow gashes across each of the loaves. Let rise another half hour.

Bake for 40 minutes, or until the loaves sound hollow when tapped. Allow to cool before slicing.

Ris’s Chicken Salad Sandwich

Mix together:
3 cups fresh roasted chicken meat
1 cup cooked white or brown rice, I prefer Calasparra rice
½ cup red grapes, cut in half
¼ cup diced celery
¼ cup diced red onion
¼ cup diced dried apricots
¼ – ½ cup chopped toasted walnuts
A few Tbsp. dressing made with mayonnaise, sherry vinegar, a dash of walnut oil, honey and chopped fresh sage. Enough to bind the salad together.

Mix together. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve on fresh or toasted oatmeal bread, dressed with some of the mayonnaise and a healthy leaf of lettuce.

Georgetowner •

On the surface, the seasonal lull between winter and spring doesn’t offer much in the way of culinary inspiration. Walking through the farmers markets, shallow-stocked stalls display the dregs of winter’s harvest like the end of a liquidation sale — dried up apples, sprouted, weak garlic, some potatoes and shriveled onions, and maybe a few premature displays of under-ripe berries. With the exception of baby greens, there isn’t a whole lot to be had from our local farms right now. We’re a few weeks off from spring’s bounty, and back in the days of old we would be pulling our pickles, jams, preserves and dry goods from the cellar and waiting for the first shoots of asparagus to rise up and welcome our palettes into the new season.

“We’re all so excited for spring,” says chef and restaurateur Ris Lacoste, “but we’re not going to see asparagus or strawberries until mid-April. I spoke to farmers at the market just last week and they said they had almost nothing right now. We have to just sit and wait. It’s a tough time of year for foodies.”

However, what the farmers are doing right now is planting. And given that it has been such a mild year for rain, says Ris, the soil is in great shape around here. This time last year, it had been such a wet winter that the land was waterlogged, rendering fruits and vegetables quick to rot on the vine. This year there has been a comfortable amount of rain, perfect for the spring harvest. Plants will likely be sprouting in abundance.

For now, though, farmers are focused on the seed. “And if it’s good enough for the farmers,” says Ris, “it’s good enough for me.”

On top of being the springboard of all vegetal life, seeds also carry their own nutritional and culinary merit. It is also worth noting that we don’t want to talk about seeds without talking about nuts. They carry many of the same properties, are dealt with similarly in the kitchen, and are often mistaken for one another. For instance, almonds and Brazil nuts, widely attributed to the nut community, are in fact seeds.

While nuts and seeds are high in fat, they are natural, straight-from-the-source fats with their healthful properties intact, in contrast to many of the processed fats that work their way into our diets today. Many are good sources of vitamins E and B2, and are rich in protein, folate, fiber and essential minerals such as magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, copper and selenium.

As cooking goes, you can take seeds and nuts in any number of directions. Toast them and the flavors becomes more pronounced. Chop or crush them and you have a crunchy textural element to play with. Mill it into a flourlike meal and they can be used to add flavor and moisture to baked goods or to deliciously thicken a pureed soup. Furthermore, they are a delicious, healthful and filling snack alternative to processed foods like chips and crackers. “A handful of marcona almonds with a cup of coffee is one of the great pleasures in life for me,” says Ris. “As a midmorning or afternoon snack, it’s hard to beat.”

Here are some useful kitchen tricks with some of our favorite seeds and nuts:

Almonds are protein-rich and naturally a bit on the sweet side. They are amazingly versatile and work seamlessly with both sweet and savory dishes. You can buy them slivered in the baking section, toast them and add them to anything. Sprinkle them on salad, cereal or oatmeal (see our oatmeal column at www.Georgetowner.com for more on that). Pile them over desserts and fruit salad. You can use them as a crust for fish and white meat (almond-crusted salmon, tilapia or chicken are all winners). They are great in or on muffins and mixed into cookie dough. If you have an ice-cream maker, throw a handful into your next batch of vanilla or honey ice-cream. You’ll be amazed.

Brazil nuts are the giants of the nut world, with a protein, calcium and omega-3 profile to match their size. They’re also up there in fat content, alongside pecans and macadamias, with almost 70-percent fat and a creamy flesh that lends itself nicely to pesto — and they’re a cheaper alternative to pine nuts. If you really want to surprise and impress your guests, grate them with a microplane for a wonderfully light parmesan-like garnish on pastas or salads. You can even mix it in with a homemade salad dressing.

A moderate sprinkling of flaxseeds on top of cereal, grains or oatmeal is a nice, subtly smoky touch and can help aid digestion. Sneak them into muffins or scones. Ground flaxseeds blended with water are a common substitute for egg whites in baking.

The gorgeous, flat green Pumpkin seed, a staple in Ris’s kitchen, is a hallmark ingredient in Mexican cuisine. Also called pepitas, they lend themselves nicely to breads, soups and salads. Ground up with spices, they provide subtle seasoning and can even serve as a base for vinaigrettes. Sikil Pak, a pumpkin seed dip, is made from toasted pepitas pureed with garlic, habanero and tomato.

Walnuts are excellent in stuffings, salads, granola, pancakes, cookies and breads (they are also the author’s favorite cereal topping—just crush them up and sprinkle on your next bowl). Raw walnuts were also found to have twice as many antioxidants as other nuts.

Fennel seeds and cumin seeds are the secret weapon of many of Ris’s favorite savory dishes. They add subtle undertones to meats and fish when used in marinades, and as a base aromatic for soups and stews it can take your creations to the next level, adding unprecedented depth of flavor. To really get their flavors out, toast them dry on a hot skillet before you add your oil and vegetables.

Of course, seeds like sesame and poppy are great to crust breads with — like, for instance, bagels. But did you know that mustard seed and celery seed are among the key ingredients to the housemade pickles at Ris? (The recipe is available at www.Georgetowner.com in our pickling column from last year.)

Toasting seeds and nuts:

Flatter nuts and seeds are better toasted in a skillet — pine nuts, sesame seeds and those that have been chopped. Rounder types, such as walnuts or hazelnuts, go in the oven so heat can wrap all the way around them.

In a skillet: Place nuts or seeds in a single layer in a large, heavy skillet over medium heat. Toss them around every minute or so until fragrant and toasty—about five minutes, depending on the type of seed. Keep a very watchful eye on them, as they go from light to burnt in no time flat.

In the oven or toaster oven: Preheat to 350 degrees. Place the nuts on a rimmed baking sheet so they don’t roll off and toast until they start to darken and get fragrant. Toasting times vary depending on the seed, but this usually takes just a few minutes. They tend to brown faster toward the edge of the baking sheet, so stir them or give the pan a shake once or twice during baking.

Have specific cooking questions or nutty inquiries? Email Ari@Georgetowner.com, and he will consult with the chef and get back to you. [gallery ids="100589,100590" nav="thumbs"]

Georgetowner • May 2, 2012

**Hank?s Oyster Bar** Chef/owner, **Jamie Leeds**, and mixologist **Gina Chersevani** are working together again, but this time as partners. They plan to open a new Hank?s Oyster Bar in Eastern Market, where Ba Bay used to be. Gina plans to hand-carve ice from giant blocks. In addition to the long bar, there will be an additional 40 seats plus a small outdoor patio. In addition to Gina?s 18-22 cocktails on her nautically-themed drink list, she also plans to create her own oyster stout. Eventually, Gina?s drinks will be offered at Hank?s in Dupont Circle and Alexandria. They hope to open this June.

**Logan Circle Update: Aaron Gordon**, owner/operator of DC?s **Tangysweet**, **Red Velvet Cupcakery** and Clarendon?s **Rabbit Salad & Grille** is taking over the Logan Circle space on 14th Street where ACKC used to be. He plans to offer breakfast, and wants to open in early August.

**More on 14th Street: Mark Kuller**, owner of **Proof and Estadio**, plans to open a Southeast Asian-inspired restaurant on 14th Street in Logan Circle. Chef **Haidar Karoum** will be at the helm of this new concept. They plan to open in late fall or early winter.

Much more on 14th Street: **M Caf? & Bar**, formerly in Chevy Chase, will reopen on 14th Street in Logan Circle in September. It?s owned by retail developer **Iraklis Karabassis**, who also operates **Sette Osteria** and who co-founded **Cafe Milano**. The 90-seat space will have a bar/lounge area, outdoor terrace, and two private dining rooms. Chef **Nico Amroune** will remain as executive chef.

**Barcelona Wine Bar & Restaurant** is moving into the space formerly occupied by BodySmith gym, which is moving down the street at the end of the year and more than doubling its space. The Connecticut-based **Barcelona Wine Bar & Restaurant** chain plans to open before end of 2012.

**Columbia Heights Update**: Architect **Eric Gronning**, who designed **Jack Rose, Marvin, Cork**, and **Pizzeria Paradiso**, and his wife **Lori Robertson**, decided to jump in and open their own restaurant in their own neighborhood. **Maple**, on 11th Street in Columbia Heights, is a 38-seat European-style restaurant and bar. Tiger maple wood was used to construct the 20-foot bar, hence the name. Eric also built the bar chairs and is working on his own lighting fixtures. The chef is Eric?s uncle, **Felix Gonzales**, who pre?viously worked at a restaurant in Baltimore?s Little Italy. In the spirit of neighborly support, the owners of Cork helped create the wine list. Maple is the latest in a blossoming restaurant row. The owner of **Tryst, Open City**, and **The Diner** is opening a bar/diner/coffeehouse across the street.

**Kangaroo Boxing Club**, a barbecue joint, will open where **Acuario** used to be on 11th Street, brought to you by **PORC** food truck founders **Josh Saltzman, Trent Allen** and **Chris Powers** and **Solly?s Tavern** co-owner Peyton Sherwood. The name dates back to a college drinking bet about being able to beat a kangaroo in a boxing match. The 39-seat spot will serve an expanded menu from the food truck. Peyton will also create a craft-cocktail list along with about 10 beers. It is slated to open this summer.

**Pleasant Pops** food truck owners **Roger Horowitz** and **Brian Sykora** plan to open a market and cafe at 18th and Florida this summer. Pleasant Pops used Kickstarter to crowdsource (aka raise) $20,000 for the store. It surpassed that goal with more than 300 donors. The farmhouse chic d?cor includes old barn wood and farmhouse tools. It will sell four rotating seasonal pop flavors plus eight standards. There will also be sandwiches, salads, cheeses, milk, eggs, and jams from the same farmers who provide Pleasant Pops with the fruits they use to make their pops.

**Chef & GM Update: Bridget Kelly** has been named the new general manager for **Del Frisco?s Grille**, slated to opening July at 1201 Pennsylvania Ave, NW. She hails from Massachusetts where she was GM for sev?eral Burtons Grill restaurants in Boston and Burlington, MA. **Rob Klink** was named exec?utive chef for Del Frisco?s Grille. Previously he was executive chef for **Turnabout Grill** in Owings Mills, MD, but he?s better known around here as former executive chef for **Oceanaire Seafood Room** in downtown DC. **BlackSalt Fish Market & Restaurant** appointed **Thomas Leonard** as Executive Chef. **Jon Mathieson** has become execu?tive chef for **BLT Steak**; previously he was at **Michel at The Ritz-Carlton**, Tysons Corner. He also worked at **Inox** and 2941, also in Northern Virginia.

**Renovations: Jose Andres?** first **Jaleo** in Penn Quarter has reopened after extensive renovations. Spanish designer **Juli Capella** and architect **Eric Gronning** have given it a more whimsical look. The menu is also new with some unusual offerings?. **K Street Lounge** is renovating and rebranding as **Capitale**, a nightclub with no food service inside. Artist **Maggie O?Neill**, who designed **Sax, Lincoln,** and **Irish Whiskey Public House**, is revamping the space, which will close for renovations during the second week of May and reopen in July.

**More renovations and rebirth: ** **The North Dakota Farmers Union and Farmers Restaurant Group** announced plans to open **Farmers, Fishers & Bakers** at their Georgetown waterfront space at Washington Harbor in late fall 2012. The totally new res?taurant will replace **Farmer & Fishers**, which was destroyed a year ago in the flood along the Potomac River waterfront. It will join the long-awaited reopening of **Tony & Joe?s** and **Nick?s Riverside Grille**, also shut down by the flood. They plan to open this month.

**Artsy Renovations**: As of May 1, the **Garden Caf?** inside the National Gallery of Art will be re-dubbed **Garden Caf? Catalonia** and feature a Catalan menu created by **Jose Andres** to complement the museum?s forthcoming **Joan Mir?** exhibit. Andr?s and his **ThinkFoodGroup** collaborated with the **National Gallery of Art** in 2009 for the **Garden Caf? Espana**. And also in 2011 when **Caf? Atlantico** transformed into **America Eats Tavern** as part of a partnership with National Archives? exhibit, What?s Cooking, Uncle Sam? Run by **Restaurant Associates**, the cafe will remain open through mid-Sep?tember. It replaces the **Garden Caf? Italia**, which has been running for the past year with a menu courtesy of **Fabio Trabocchi**.

Renovations Correction: Shelly?s Back Room on F Street, NW did recently open its outdoor patio, Shelly?s Front Porch, The description of the additional 1000 sq ft and 50+ seats in April?s column referred to the expansion done last year, not to Shelly?s Front Porch.

Longtime friends and Local 16 owner **Aman Ayoubi** and **Utopia Bar & Grill** owner **Jamal Sahri** are opening a subterranean Brazilian lounge on U Street., NW. Located below Lost Society and Subway, it will focus on live music and performing art from Brazil. The plan is to have it open before the begin?ning of summer.

**Downtown DC Update**: Thai restaurateur **Oy Changsila** is opening **Sala Thai**, a fast casual spin-off of his Sala Thai restaurants. It will open in the space formerly occupied by **Maoz** on M Street in downtown DC. It will focus on Thai street food. They plan to be open by June. **Taylor Gourmet** is planning a July opening for the downtown crowd on 19th Street, NW. It will take over the space where **Mixt Greens** was. They will also offer late night and breakfast hoagies on the weekends. They are collaborating with **Grupo 7** on a crowd-sourced mural. They?re reaching out to customers via Facebook and Twitter to find 10-15 local artists who will design sections of the mural. More hoagie shops in Merrifield, VA and another DC location are also in the works along with the first** Taylor Charles Steak & Ice** on H Street.

**Tom Power**, chef/owner of **Corduroy**, who bought the building adjacent to his **Shaw** restaurant on 9th Street for a second restau?rant slated to be called **Velour**, has changed the name and concept. The new name is **Herringbone** and the concept will be sim?pler and more casual than Corduroy, offering lobster rolls rather than lobster carpaccio. A summer opening is planned.

***Linda Roth Conte is president of Linda Roth Associates, Inc (LRA) specializing in making creative connections through media relations, marketing initiatives, community outreach and special events for the hospitality industry. Contact Linda at 703-417-2700 or linda@lindarothpr.com or visit her web site at www.lindarothpr.com***

Marit Fosso • April 5, 2012

Last April, the Washington Harbour Complex at the Georgetown waterfront was flooded, causing severe damage to Tony & Joe’s Seafood Place among other local establishments. The outside bar and patio have since been open with a limited menu from an outdoor kitchen, while the inside dining room and bar have been closed for renovation. But there is good news on the horizon. ”The inside restaurant will reopen for the public in early May 2012,” owner Greg Casten said.

However, there is still some work to be done with the storefront windows. ”Everything will hopefully be completed in mid-June or early July. So, any grand opening celebrations will probably be in July,” Casten said. When the restaurant reopens, there will also be a new chef on board: David Stein. ”He’s the perfect fit for us, as he really knows seafood and the Chesapeake Bay area,” Casten said. Stein has worked as a chef in many other places, most recently at Bistro St. Michael in Maryland. ”We’re working on some menu changes for the opening. I have some great ideas for that,” Stein said. He’s currently happy cooking from the outdoor kitchen, but he also looks forward to getting started in the new kitchen. ”I’ve been here for two and a half months now, and it’s great out here. The staff here is great, they have a rare loyalty to the place that I haven’t seen in any other restaurant,” Stein said. Mark Ramirez, who’s working alongside Stein in the outdoor kitchen, has worked at Tony and Joe’s for 20 years.

The lower fountain area by the waterfront is also under renovation. The new fountain will create a water show that changes from day to night during the warmer months. In the winter the fountain will be replaced by an ice skating rink. ”The new fountain will probably be completed by the end of the summer,” said Jennifer DeMeo from MRP Realtors. [gallery ids="100707,100708,100709" nav="thumbs"]

Georgetowner • April 4, 2012

Shophouse Southeast Asian Kitchen is slated to open in the Georgetown space formerly occupied by Furin’s at 2805 M St., NW. It will be the second location (Dupont Circle was first) from Steve Ells, who also brought us **Chipotle.** Always secretive, this store will open sometime in 2012.

It?s a two-fer. Mike Isabella plans to open **Kapnos,** a Greek restaurant and **G,** an Italian operation, both in a big space at 2201 14th Street, NW. Kapnos is Greek for ?smoke? (think whole spit-roasted animals) and G is, well, little sister to Graffiato. Both are slated to open sometime next year.

Owners Au Dang and brother Di, along with Michael Jones, a former **J Paul?s** manager, plan to open **Chasin? Tails,** a silverware-optional crab shack open in Falls Church where **Bear Rock Caf?** used to be. Cajun seafood and traditional seafood will be offered, along with drinks and entertainment. The plan is to be open by beginning of April.

**Nando?s Peri-Peri** loves the DC market and has targeted more locations: Pentagon Row to open in the beginning of June; King Street in Old Town, Alexandria and Waugh Chapel area of Anne Arundel County by end of 2012. They currently have locations in Penn Quarter, Gaithersburg, Bethesda Row, Silver Spring and National Harbor.

**Eastern Market** is looking forward to a new restaurant from some familiar DC restaurant talent. Former **Komi** cook and pastry chef **Johnny Spero, Toki Underground** chef **Erik Bruner-Yang** and **Acqua al 2** chef **Ari Gejdenson** are the owners of **Suna.** Johnny takes the lead in the kitchen. Suna?s menu will be based on sustainability, supporting local farms, and what is available regionally and by season. Suna means ?moss? in Lativian, and Johnny Spero is of Latvian descent. The plan is to open by year?s end.

Chef Update: At **Rasika West End, Vikram Sunderam** will be in charge of both restaurants, but chef de cuisine **Manish Tyagi** will oversee the day-to-day operations. Christopher Morris has been named Executive Chef at **BRIO Tuscan Grille** in Rockville, Maryland.? Previously, he worked as executive chef of **O?Donnell?s Sea Grill** and **Cin Cin Tratoria. Aaron McCloud** is the new chef at **Cedar** restaurant in Penn Quarter. Previously he was executive chef for Vintage Restaurant Group in Loudoun County, then chef at The Inn at Perry Cabin in St. Michaels, Md. Patrick Forest and Raina Hull, former managers at **8407 Kitchen Bar** in Silver Spring have joined forces to open **Mealey?s Table** in New Market, Md. They hired Nate Waugaman, as chef. The restaurant will seat 80 with additional seating in the lounge. Previously, Nate had been at **Addie?s** in Rockville. Nate plans to produce his own charcuterie in-house with a farm-to-table strategy. His sous chef is Ian Benites, who worked with Nate at Addie?s. It is slated to open this month. In the meantime, Mallory Buford will run the kitchen at Addie?s, as he used to for Black Restaurant Group.

A “philanthro-pub” called Cause, is planned for the Shaw neighborhood at 1926 9th St., NW in late April. Yes, it is a philanthropic-themed bar that plans to direct a percentage of profits towards charities. Cause is the brainchild of non-restaurateurs **Raj Ratwani** and **Nick Vilelle.** Their operators are **John Jarecki** and **Dave Pressley,** who run **The Light Horse** in Alexandria. They have restaurant ops chops, as between them they have helped to open 20 restaurants including Neighborhood Restaurant Group?s **Tallula, Rustico,** and **Vermillion.** Former **Queen Vic** chef **Adam Stein** heads the kitchen. The two-story space, which will also host non-profit events, will have a **worldly theme** with globes, maps, and photography from different countries.

Renovations: **Shelly?s Back Room** at 1331 F Street, NW has added an additional 1000 square feet (and 50 seats) for an outdoor patio, appropriately called ?Shelly?s Front Porch,? offering the comfort of Adirondack chairs and a limited food menu. This will be referred to as fireplace room and bourbon room?. Alain Roussel has renovated his Chevy Chase French country restaurant, **La Ferme,** to the tune of $150,000. This includes new paneling, carpet, lamp shades, window dressings, upholstery wall hangings, and paint both in the main dining room and the private party room upstairs. **Morton?s The Steakhouse** in downtown DC is slated to undergo renovations, a part of their new ownership upgrade.

**Volt** chef Bryan Voltaggio’s forthcoming DC restaurant Range, is slated to open late fall in the **Chevy Chase Pavilion** showcasing lesser-used cuts of meat including shoulders, legs, and **offal.** The cocktails will feature house-made bitters, sodas, and mixers. As is all the rage these days, there will be an **open kitchen** as well as a bakery and retail shop.

Quick Hits: **Rahama African Restaurant** recently opened in the Shaw neighborhood at 1923 9th St, NW. Ripple in Cleveland Park has a ?sister? next door, **Sugar Magnolia** offering savory and sweets including homemade ice cream sandwiches made by pastry chef **Alison Reed**, who joined Ripple in January after four years at **Cafe Saint Ex.** Chicago-based Matt Matros, owner of **Protein Bar,** has signed a lease to open a Protein Bar in Penn Quarter at Seventh & D Streets, NW. Working with Papadopoulos Properties, this promises to be the first of many in the area. **First Watch** plans to in Chantilly at Greenbriar Town Center. This will make their third (Rockville, Fairfax) in the region. They plan to open by end of 2012. Scott Harlan is chef/owner of Green Pig Bistro, slated to open in Clarendon, Va., by the time you read this. He was previously with **Inox.**

**Nick?s Riverside Grille** and **Tony & Joe?s** at Georgetown?s Washington Harbour should be up and running ? inside and outside ? by May. That?s the time it takes to re-open after a flood and everything else that goes with it.

Kimpton Hotel & Restaurant group named Brian McPherson as chef at both **Jackson 20** and **The Grille** at Morrison House in Alexandria. He takes the place of Dennis Marron, who was head chef at **Poste** restaurant at Hotel Monaco. McPherson was previously at **New Heights** and **Butterfield 9.**

**True Food Kitchen,** a healthy, Mediterranean-themed restaurant, from Scottsdale, Ariz.-based Fox Restaurant Concepts?, is scouting locations in the D.C. region. It will be their first East Coast expansion, which has four locations in Arizona and California. True Food will appeal to D.C.?s sophisticated-leaning palate and generally healthy lifestyle. It?s backed by **P.F. Chang?s.** Thank Tom Papadopoulos for bringing this to you.

Shirlington Village?s Curious Grape returns ? as more than a wine shop. Now it?s **The Curious Grape Wine, Dine & Shop.** Owner Suzanne McGrath says the food will focus on dishes that pair well with or feature wine. In addition to the restaurant, there is a cheese bar, traditional bar and private dining space.

Marit Fosso • March 8, 2012

Celebrity chef Robert Irvine brings his hit show ‘Restaurant Impossible’ to the still unknown restaurant in Washington, D.C., today. For those of you who haven’t seen it yet, “Restaurant: Impossible” is a reality show in which muscle-bound chef Irvine sets out to save failing restaurants across the country. Irvine, who is currently staying at the Gaylord Hotel at National Harbor, will spend two intense days with each restaurant he’s trying to rescue from going out of business. During the process he will change the food, the interior and retrain the staff, using muscle and toughness, but without spending more than $10,000.

Irvine has over 25 years of culinary experiene. He is involved in several reality shows besides “Restaurant Impossible.” He owns two restaurants and has written three cookbooks. Even being around food all day, Irvine still manages to be one of the fittest chefs in the industry. ”Maintaining a healthy diet while you are constantly surrounded by food is a major challenge for chefs everywhere,” writes Irvine on his blog (http://chefirvine.com/blog/). His best advise for staying trim while working in a kitchen includes finding the time to sit down and eat, drink water instead of soda, and to take on the phsyical tasks, such as lifting the heavy boxes when the big food delivery arrives.

With all his years of experience, Irvine uses his skills and creativity to bring an unsuccessful restaurant back into business. So far, Irvine has managed to turn around more than 30 failing restaurants. It will be exciting to see which D.C. restaurant will benefit from Irvine’s two days of tough food-love. Stay tuned.