Food & Wine

Jody Kurash • March 18, 2016

Along with the hope of an early spring from Punxsutawney Phil, February also ushered in the Lunar New Year. 2016 is the Year of the Monkey, which is also my Chinese zodiac sign. In accordance, I have decided this should be a year of celebration, requiring a signature “monkey” cocktail.

Perhaps the best-known tipple with a primate name is the brass monkey, which was made famous, or infamous, by the Beastie Boys song of the same name in the 1980s.

The brass monkey wasn’t necessarily something you would order at a bar; it was a premixed bottled cocktail manufactured by the Heublein Company and sold in retail liquor stores.

A magazine ad from the 1970s tells the story of a World War II spy named H.E. Rasske who frequented a bar called the Brass Monkey in Macau. The bar was named for a brass figurine and its specialty was its self-named cocktail.

While the contents of the drink at the fictional Asian club are unknown, Heublein’s version contained orange juice, dark rum and vodka. Dark rum, when mixed with the orange juice, produced a golden “brassy color.” Variations of this recipe sometimes include triple sec, grapefruit juice, Galliano and gin.

Other chimp cocktails exist. Many of them are sweet creamy concoctions made with bananas (no doubt because of the fruit’s identification as the preferred primate provender).

For example, the mocha monkey, created by Baileys liqueur, is a frozen drink composed of Baileys, vanilla ice cream, chocolate syrup and fresh banana. A slightly more potent concoction is the cheeky monkey, made with Baileys, crème de cacao and crème de banana.

The funky monkey, marketed by Bacardi, is a similar drink with the substitution of rum and coconut cream for the Baileys.
Absinthe is another common factor in monkey cocktails, perhaps due to the antiquated notion of absinthe making drinkers crazy. In 2012, during the height of the gin craze, Esquire magazine published a recipe for the flying monkey, which contained gin, lime, orange marmalade?and absinthe.

Another gin/absinthe combo is the monkey gland, created in the 1920s at Harry’s New York Bar in Paris. According to slakethirst.com, its moniker is derived from an archaic surgical technique of grafting monkey testicle tissue into humans. The practice was started by a French doctor, who was convinced that testosterone was the key to a long and healthy life. A precursor to Viagra, perhaps?

I found my signature monkey drink for 2016 in Singapore, where I went to celebrate Chinese New Year. The streets of Chinatown were illuminated with monkeys holding peaches (which symbolize immortality), and people were jammed into restaurants eating spring rolls and whole fish for good fortune.

In Singapore, I discovered Monkey Shoulder, a blended Speyside malt whisky. The name is a reference to a condition that maltmen from the distillery sometimes picked up while working long shifts, turning the barley by hand. Because this tended to cause their turning arm to hang down a bit like a monkey’s, they nicknamed the condition ‘monkey shoulder.’

Straight up, this scotch has a mild taste with hints of nutmeg and honey. The promotional materials claim it tastes like 007 wearing a tuxedo wetsuit. I also tried the ginger monkey, an uncomplicated mixture of scotch, ginger beer and orange. In Chinese culture, displaying and consuming oranges is said to bring wealth and luck (plus the spice of the ginger beer gives this cocktail an Asian twist).

If none of these tipples tickles your fancy, you can still toast the Year of the Monkey by garnishing your drinks with tiny plastic cocktail monkeys — miniature versions of the characters from your childhood game, Barrel of Monkeys. Vanity Fair last year declared the plastic cocktail monkey the “new cocktail umbrella.” [gallery ids="117186,117180" nav="thumbs"]

Laila Widmars • March 17, 2016

Nestled amid bustling downtown D.C. is an escape to the magical land of Spain. Festive red walls trimmed in white crown molding — reminiscent of architecture found in Spain’s capital, Madrid — enclose a portal to the country’s rich culture, just past the doors of Taberna del Alabardero on 18th Street NW.

Packed with power-lunchers by day, the large, white-tablecloth dining room offers a more romantic ambiance in the evening. The bar is flanked with signed photos of Spanish royalty and A-list celebrities (recently spotted: Woody Allen and friends), many of whom make a point to dine at this American version of a Spanish classic.

For almost 27 years, Taberna — part of Grupo Lezama, which operates restaurants and a culinary school in Spain — has prided itself on the authenticity of its offerings and atmosphere. Seasonal changes to the menu highlight the techniques and flavors unique to Spain. Executive Chef Javier Romero, trained in Madrid, Aranjuez and Marbella, excels at signature dishes like paella, which is generously topped with fresh lobster, scallops, mussels and squid.

When it comes to ethnic dining, however, especially French, Italian or Spanish, a restaurant is only as good as its wine list. Taberna’s is outstanding, truly separating this establishment from its local counterparts. Embracing a menu offering both traditional favorites, such as Iberian ham carved, just so, into thin, savory slices of heaven, and new takes on old classics, such as chipirones en su tinta con arroz y salmorejo (black ink baby squid with rice and a light creamy salmorejo sauce), is a list that highlights the rich wine regions of the restaurant’s country of origin.

Bordering France and Portugal, the wine regions of Spain present unique flavor opportunities, some characterized by the grapes shared by its wine-centric neighbors. Taberna del Alabardero sommelier Jorge Olias describes Taberna’s wine program as “an extensive list rich in wines from Spain but also paying homage to a few wines produced in the U.S.”

Asked about his favorite regions, Olias is unable to choose, expressing his affection for the “peculiarities and characteristics” of many regions. At a recent lunch, we tried some wine selections exquisitely paired with gazpacho so rich and decadent it was almost buttery and paella that could possibly be the most savory this side of the Atlantic.

Of course, no siesta is complete without a selection of Spanish wines and cheeses. Standouts included the Pazo da Bouciña, an outstanding white of the Albariño variety (a white-wine grape grown in Galicia, a region in the nortwest), with aromatic intensity and hints of fruit and florals as it hits the taste buds; and a sublime tempranillo entitled Dominio de Atauta, full-bodied with a smooth finish. The medium acidity of the Pazo da Bouciña was just enough the balance out the decadence of the gazpacho. Hints of sweet spices and cocoa bean perfectly complimented the succulent suckling pig confit that topped off our exquisite midday meal.

Olias also points out Taberna’s lengthy and varied selection of sherries, boasting: “It’s impossible to describe them all.” It is traditional in Spanish culture to begin the dining experience with a little sherry to open the taste buds before indulging in a flavorful meal. We began ours with “Jarana Lustau,” a light, dry, delicate sherry with hints of pecan — perfect beginning to a most flavorful journey.

Taberna’s integrity is the foundation of what has made it an essential Washington institution along the lines of Café Milano and Al Tiramisu. Next month, the restaurant will celebrate its 27th anniversary by introducing new menu selections, cocktails and sangrias.

But it is clear that what makes this D.C. gem so special isn’t the constant introduction of new elements to keep abreast of the District’s ever-changing, overflowing food and beverage scene; it is instead the classic dining experience found here, one that draws with unmatched authenticity on one of Europe’s greatest — and most flavorful — civilizations.

To view the menu and for news of special events such as wine dinners and paella classes, visit alabardero.com.

Georgetowner • March 16, 2016

Bar à Vin at Chez Billy Sud

Bar à Vin opens this week at 1035 31st St. NW, a long-vacant space adjacent to Chez Billy Sud. Along with the original Chez Billy in Petworth, it is part of the restaurants of dance-music producer Thievery Corporation’s Eric Hilton and his younger brother Ian. The new space will feature a large and mostly French wine list and be open from 4 p.m. to 2 a.m.

The Resurrection of Bangkok Joe’s

Bangkok Joe’s, a Thai favorite on the waterfront for 10 years, said that it will return in March to its old location at 3000 K St. NW, where the short-lived Mama Rouge restaurant used to be. Both restaurants are owned by chef Aulie Bunyarataphan and proprietor Mel Oursinsiri, and while Mama Rouge offered an Asian/French fusion menu, Bangkok Joe’s will return to a more traditional Thai menu. Old favorites like the dumpling bar will still be on the menu, complemented by new creations.

Zannchi, Real Korean Fast Casual

Eunjung Kim, a business student at Georgetown University, will open Zannchi, a casual Korean eatery, at 1529 Wisconsin Ave. NW by the end of this month. The name of the restaurant means “feast” in Korean. Zannchi will specialize in bibimbap — rice bowls — and kimbap — sushi rolls that contain no raw fish. Kim will graduate from Georgetown’s MBA program this spring.

Pineapple and Pearls: $250, Starting April 7

The chef and owner of acclaimed Rose’s Luxury restaurant at Barracks Row will open a companion place, called Pineapple and Pearls, April 7. Chef Aaron Silverman has set a single-price and special menu — it will cost $250 per person, no surprises, no gratuities, no add-ons. Next week, diners can PineappleandPearls.com to start the reservation scrabble. Silverman, the Washington Post reported, “wants his fine-dining spot to be a ‘celebratory place.’ At $250 per person, Pineapple and Pearls will certainly charge like a restaurant designed for special occasions. Silverman’s menu will instantly become one of the most expensive on the planet.”

Georgetowner • March 8, 2016

The Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington revealed the finalists for its 2016 Rammy Awards. Winners in each category will be congratulated at a June 12 gala.

Georgetowner • February 24, 2016

The Watergate Hotel will feature new restaurant and bar concepts at its reopening, slated for March. The main restaurant is Kingbird, a fine-dining dinner restaurant in the evening, and a casual restaurant during the day, serving breakfast and lunch, as well as a casual-dining component in the evening. The Next Whiskey Bar is the lobby bar with a significant whiskey, bourbon and rye menu. The name is taken from lyrics to a Doors song, for those boomers who thought it sounded familiar. The property will also feature a rooftop lounge called Top of the Gate (or is it ’Gate, get it?) that has a panoramic view of the Potomac River. The executive chef is Michael Santoro, most recently at Andaz 5th Avenue in New York. In D.C., he served as chef de cuisine under Brian McBride at Blue Duck Tavern at the Park Hyatt Hotel in the West End.

Cooper’s Hawk Winery & Restaurant is slated to open this month in Ashburn’s Belmont Chase Shopping Center. It offers modern American food, featuring their own proprietary varietals crafted from their Illinois-based winery. The large 10,985-square-foot restaurant will offer indoor and outdoor seating for more than 300 guests, as well as a large private dining and events room. They also offer a wine of the month club. There are currently 20 locations around the country, including a Richmond site. They also expect to open in Reston this year. Jeffrey Patterson is the general manager.

Papadopoulos Properties is working with Boston chef Michael Schlow to expand his concepts in the DMV. Schlow’s Italian concept, Alta Strada, is slated to open in Northern Virginia’s Mosaic District where matchbox and Ted’s Bulletin are (also Papadopoulos deals). Alta Strada is also slated to open in the Mount Vernon Triangle section of DC. Schlow has already made his mark in D.C. with TICO and The Riggsby at The Carlyle — Dupont Circle Hotel.

C-C-Changes: Wagshal’s opened a full service restaurant behind the deli at its Spring Valley (AU Park) location on Yuma Street NW. The Fuchs family hopes to do the same at his other location at 3201 New Mexico Ave. NW, serving breakfast and dinner … Raku in Dupont Circle has re-branded as Rakuya, Japanese Kitchen & Bar. Chef Update: Jose Adorno is the chef at Mix Bar & Grille in Silver Spring. He was previously chef de cuisine at Graffiato … Ricarda Planas has been appointed chef at Mpire in the Golden Triangle.

Quick Hits: Manuel Iguina, owner of Mio in downtown D.C., does not plan to renew his lease, but does plan to open a similar concept, called Acerola (cherry-esque), in Fairfax over the summer. Chop’t Creative Salad Co. has signed deals to open in Vienna, Rockville and near Nats Park. These three new locations will give them 15 in the D.C. metro area, all part of the Papadopoulos portfolio. Haikan is the name of the new ramen restaurant slated to open this spring in Shaw by the folks who brought you Daikaya. The 2,000-plus square-foot restaurant will offer a varied selection of Sapporo-style ramen. Nobu is slated to open this fall in West End at 2501 M St. NW. Jackie Greenbaum, plans to open Little Coco’s, an Italian eatery in Petworth. Adam Harvey will reign over the kitchen, as he has done at Jackie’s in Silver Spring. Un Je Ne Sais Quoi will open where Hello Cupcake was in Dupont Circle. It will specialize in merveilleux, a pastry with layers of merengue and ganache. The Tilted Kilt plans to open in Silver Spring and in Sterling by end of the second quarter in 2016. Pamplona, a Spanish tapas restaurant from the Social Restaurant Group, will open where SoBe Bar and Bistro was. Super Grill opens in Merrifield’s H Mart shopping center where Mario’s Pizza House was. Arepas Pues is slated to open on Fenton Street in downtown Silver Spring, serving hand-made corn arepas, complementing Venezuelan, Colombian and Cuban cuisine. Arepas are cornmeal pockets traditionally served with diverse fillings. Burton’s Bar & Grill is planning to open this March in Alexandria. Dylyn Coolidge, formerly of Commissary and the Beacon Bar, will be the chef, adding vegetarian and gluten-free dishes to the menu. Zannchi Korean Kitchen will open in the Wisconsin Avenue space in Georgetown where Yummi Crawfish was; the owners are Georgetown MBA students. They plan to open in February. From the folks at Eat Well DC who brought you The Pig, Commissary, Grillfish and Logan Tavern, comes The Bird, slated to open in Shaw on 11th Street NW, specializing in — what else? — chicken. Seating capacity will accommodate 99 with plans for an outdoor patio. Just Chicken is also slated to open in the U Street corridor this season. Chuy’s Tex Mex is slated to open in Sterling. They just opened in Woodbridge on Prince William Parkway, in addition to the units open in Fairfax and Springfield. More are planned in the DMV in 2016. Smashburger opens in Rockville at 1800 Rockville Pike before end of the first quarter 2016. This will be the 11th Smashburger to open in the D.C. metro area.

Linda Roth is president of Linda Roth Associates, a public relations and marketing firm that specializes in the hospitality industry, Reach her at: Linda@LindaRothPR.com.

Jody Kurash • February 18, 2016

Aaaahhhhh! I let out a deep sigh as I leaned back in the cushy, raised lounge chair which served as a barstool at One-Eyed Jack’s, the newest bar-restaurant in Moalboal, a lazy beach town on the west side of Cebu island in the Philippines. I spent the entire day diving, watched a vibrant sunset and now I was eager to enjoy an evening cocktail.

Before I had the chance to talk to a bartender, my eyes were immediately drawn upwards to the drink list scratched onto chalkboards above the bar. Being a spirits writer, my eyes are always on the lookout for a cocktail menu, but this seemed a little too easy to spot. As it turns out, it was. After meeting the owner, Wayne Bruey, I discovered that the menu was specifically positioned to be in direct eye contact with customers lazing about on the comfy chairs. This is my kind of bar, I decided.

While many of the selections were geared towards the “party hardy” crowd, I found a few gems. I quickly found out that the positioning of the recliners and overhead menu was not the only visual trick in this joint. Colorful layered drinks appeared to be their specialty.

Take for example, the reggae-inspired Bob Marley, a tricolored offering that mimicked the hues of the Rastafarian flag. I watched as bartender Jocel Dionaldo carefully layered this creation with red, orange then green. After sipping one of these tipples, it was easy to determine that the red came from grenadine and the yellow was fresh fruit juice. But the green had me perplexed. I detected notes of candied orange and an oaky vanilla vibe, but I couldn’t pinpoint it. The flavor didn’t match any green liqueurs that I was familiar with, plus this drink packed a kick, so I ascertained there was some type of hard liquor.

I soon learned that the jungle-green layer was created from the mahogany color of barrel-aged rum blended with bright blue curacao. Being a rum lover, I was intrigued by the local Philippine rum, Tanduay. Their 5-year dark offering had the typical dark sugary and mature flavor, but it finished with slightly nutty and smoky notes.

Another visual trick was the Shark Bite. On an island catering to divers and famous for its population of whale and thresher sharks, a shark bite may be the last thing a visitor wants to experience, but at Jack’s it was a pleasurable experience.

This drink had an added bit of showmanship. It was forged by inverting a shot glass of vibrant grenadine in a tumbler, then filling the glass to the brim with ocean-blue curacao. For the performance, Wayne carefully removed the inverted shot glass, allowing the grenadine to mingle with the curacao, creating the illusion of blood seeping into the sea.

The other peculiar drink that caught my taste buds was the Duck Fart. I never got a good explanation for the name, but it featured a layered combination of Kahlua, Baileys Irish Cream and Jack Daniels. It had a sweet coffee shop smell but with lingering scents of a whiskey bar. Truly an international effort (Mexico, Ireland and USA), this concoction started off with a strong bourbon smack that was followed by the mellow notes of the coffee and cream liqueurs.

During my weeklong holiday, I managed to make it through the cocktail list, all the while enjoying the local brew, San Miguel. With live music and tasty American comfort food, like chilidogs, tacos and massive plates of fish and chips, One-Eyed Jack’s offers a bit of home for a westerner living (or vacationing) in the Philippines. Wayne hails from Austin, Texas, and he compared the people of Cebu with his crowd from Texas. “Like Austin,” he said, “The locals here love to sing and have fun and enjoy life.” And I certainly found a lot to enjoy at this rustic seashore spot.

The Bob Marley

1 part grenadine (Stirrings or homemade preferred)

1 part orange juice

1 part aged rum (I prefer Flor de Cana) mixed with blue curacao to form a green color

1. Pour the grenadine into the bottom of a narrow liqueur glass.
2. Using a spoon, gently touch the bottom layer and slowly pour the juice over to form the next layer.
3. Repeat the second step using the rum-curacao mixture.

If done correctly, this will form a layered cocktail.
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Jody Kurash •

Cinco de Mayo, trips to Mexico, summer, the beach, winter, spring and fall … these are all good occasions to drink a margarita. Obviously, I really don’t need a reason to imbibe one of my favorite (when prepared correctly) cocktails.

There’s something irresistible about the agave tang of good tequila — combined with the tartness of fresh lime, balanced out with a hint of sweetness and finished with the salty smack from the salted rim of my glass.

For those who may be a bit hesitant to sip this classic tipple in the dead of winter, I’m offering an justification that cannot be questioned: Feb. 22 is National Margarita Day.

The margarita — a mixture of tequila, lime and orange liqueur — is an uncomplicated drink. While countless varieties abound (think frozen, flavored and fruited), the basic recipe is an enduring masterwork that continues to stand the test of time.

Mystery surrounds the birth of the margarita and speculation has swirled about its inventor. Perhaps the most credible story is that Carlos “Danny” Herrera invented it at his Tijuana-area restaurant, Rancho La Gloria, around 1938, for one of his customers: part-time actress and showgirl Marjorie King, who was allergic to all hard alcohol other than tequila. He combined the elements of a traditional tequila shot — salt and lime — and turned them into a delightful drink.

When Hererra died in 1992 in San Diego, the Associated Press referred to him as the man “known locally as the man who topped a tequila concoction with salt and called it a Margarita.”

Speaking of showbiz, one story claims the drink was named after actress Rita Hayworth, whose real name was Margarita Cansino, in the 1930s, before she adopted her screen name. As a teenager, she worked as a dancer at the Foreign Club in Tijuana. Another tale alleges that it was invented in honor of singer Peggy (Margaret) Lee in Galveston, Texas.

Another credible contender, according to Smithsonian magazine, is Margarita Sames, a Dallas socialite who claimed she whipped up the drink for friends at her Acapulco vacation home. Among her well-connected guests was Nicky Hilton (Conrad, Jr.), who got the drink added to the bar menu at his dad’s hotel chain.

Whatever story is true, we do know from the oral history of people who drank margaritas that the cocktail was concocted sometime in the 1930s.

The frozen margarita was invented in 1971 when Mexican-American restaurateur Mariano Martinez converted a soft-serve ice cream unit into a frozen margarita machine at his restaurant in Dallas. The original machine is part of the collection of the Smithsonian Museum of American History.

Rumors aside, National Margarita Day is a superb reason to treat yourself to the perfect combination of sweet, salty, sour and bitter.

Being a cocktail town, D.C. has no shortage of places to celebrate on Feb. 22. Zagat, the food bible, recommends El Chucho in Columbia Heights and José Andrés’s Oyamel Cocina Mexicana in Penn Quarter. Yelp reviewers ranked Tico DC in the U Street corridor as having the number-one margarita, with Georgetown’s El Centro D.F., coming in at number four. Eater DC gives props to Aqua 301 near the Navy Yard.

If you prefer to mix your own, the key thing to remember is that the margarita is a simple drink. There’s no need to get fussy. Just be sure to use fresh lime juice and good liquor.

The Margarita

Recipe from the International Bartenders Association

1.5 ounces Tequila
I enjoy a bold flavor, so I use reposado tequila. If you prefer a milder taste, use silver. Only use 100 percent agave tequila. I like La Certeza or Cazadores.
1/2 ounce fresh-squeezed lime juice
1 ounce orange liqueur
I’m fond of Solerno blood orange liqueur, but Cointreau is also a great choice.

Pour the tequila, lime juice and orange liqueur into a shaker with ice. Shake well. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass rimmed with crusted salt (optional).

Colleen Evans •

Let’s face it. A pot of delicious-smelling chicken soup simmering on the stove brings back childhood memories of days spent home in bed. Cooking, blending and infusing for hours, a whole chicken, vegetables and herbs transform water into a flavorful and soul-satisfying soup, the basis of a tasty, warming meal.

The Georgetowner recently went in search of chicken soup recipes — some with pasta and others with matzo balls, rice, tapioca, even Indian spices. Chock-full of vitamin-C-packed veggies to boost immune systems and ward off illness, these are the kind of recipes that will be your go-to flu- and cold-fighting meals this winter.

Fairmont executive chef Mark Timms believes that “it’s all about the [chicken stock] base” in his succulent soup. “A rich homemade stock makes all the difference in the end result,” says Timms. “Once you have a savory base, you’ve got a winning, satisfying soup.”

Newseum executive chef Tom Blundell’s “Getting All Better” soup has lentils and a little horseradish. And he doesn’t spare the carbs, putting in both rice and rich egg noodles. A menu staple at Firefly in Kimpton’s Hotel Madera is chicken matzoh ball soup, with light, airy matzoh balls in a rich broth.

Billy Martin, owner of Georgetown’s beloved Martin’s Tavern, serves Grandma Martin’s chicken soup, the recipe dating back to the 1930s. Billy noted that Grandpa Martin added his own secret ingredient to the soup to relieve some of his cold symptoms: a tablespoon of Irish whiskey (really, just a tablespoon?).

The Ritz-Carlton Pentagon’s executive chef Sriram Hariharan bases his Indian chicken soup on his mother’s recipe, handed down from generation to generation. It highlights some unique Indian spices with known health benefits, such as turmeric, cumin, cloves, coriander and cinnamon.

St. Regis executive chef Andrew Roche, meanwhile, likes his soup classic. It’s a favorite with the hotel’s younger set and has a big fan base in guests feeling under the weather. (In fact, it’s so loved by guests that some ask for a container to go when they check out.)

Maman Samake, mom of executive chef Yves Samake at the Ritz-Carlton, always used tapioca in her soup, a tradition Samake has continued by featuring the soup on the hotel’s catering and banquet menu. “Tapioca has a rich composition of good carbs, vitamins and minerals that makes it a rich and healthy option,” says Samake. According to the hotel’s catering guru Annie Boutin-King, Samake’s soup is so popular it is often requested during the winter months as the soup course for high-level social and corporate events menus.

But are these chefs (and grandma) right to include a steaming hot bowl of chicken soup for what ails you? Is it really the best remedy for a cold?

“Research has shown that chicken soup may have anti-inflammatory properties which help reduce or help you cope better with cold symptoms,” said Suzanne Doud Galli, M.D., Ph.D., F.A.C.S. “Chicken soup helps people dealing with cold and flu symptoms stay hydrated, the soup’s salt and steam help soothe passageways in the nose and throat — all playing a big role in the cold sufferer’s recovery. Homemade broth is less salty then the commercial brands, so it makes a much better choice. It’s packed with protein-rich chicken and healthy, fresh, vitamin-rich ingredients and antioxidants like carrots, onions, celery, which also help build the immune system.”

So there you have it — soups that kick like winter’s aphrodisiac.

You don’t need to have a cold to enjoy these soups; they’re nutritious and wonderful comfort food for getting through the cold dreary days of February. But if you are one of the unlucky ones who comes down with the flu or a cold, prepare one of these satisfying recipes — or better yet find a sympathetic friend to make a batch — and see if you don’t feel half human and healthy again.

And to add some points to your good-karma score, make a big pot of your favorite recipe “to go and share” if you have a friend or neighbor who’s sick. That’s definitely something good for the cold and your soul. [gallery ids="102235,129414" nav="thumbs"]

Georgetowner • January 27, 2016

MGM National Harbor Casino has enlisted an impressive list of renowned chefs to open restaurants there. Jose Andres plans to open Fish by Jose Andres, a seafood restaurant offering sushi, tempura and cocktail bars. Marcus Samuelsson plans to open Marcus, featuring his signature whole fried chicken, as well as Swedish and Ethiopian dishes, a salute to his heritage(s). The brothers Voltaggio (Bryan of Volt, Range, Aggio, and Family Meal; and Michael of ink and ink.sack in Los Angeles) will team up for the first time and open a steakhouse, targeted for third or fourth quarter of 2016.

Chef and GM Update: Vicki Reh is now chef and wine director at Via Umbria at 1525 Wisconsin Ave. NW in Georgetown. She shares chef duties with Jodi Seiner. It’s a market and café with private dining space and a soon-to-open art gallery. Owners are Susan and Bill Menard … Mark Slater, formerly of Bastille and Citronelle, runs the wine program at Pennsylvania 6 at 1350 Eye St. NW, where Tuscana West used to be. Philadelphia-based Public House Investments owns and operates City Tap House at Ninth and I Street NW, as well as Pennsylvania 6 … Jeremy Waybright, formerly of Boss Shepherd’s is now chef de cuisine at Range at the Chevy Chase Pavilion … That may be because Mattie McGhee, former chef de cuisine at Range, is now at The Watergate Hotel … Megan Coyle, formerly of Hank’s Oyster Bar, is general manager of Twisted Horn in Petworth … Thomas Harvey, formerly of Palena, is the new executive chef at The Partisan in Penn Quarter.

Quick Hits: Jrink owners Shizo Okusa and Jennifer Ngai will open their second Jrink at 2201 14th St. NW in The Jefferson. The original is in Foggy Bottom … Ten Penh lives again. PassionFood Hospitality will open their Asian themed restaurant at the Silverline Center in Tysons Corner in 2016 … Ivan Iricanin will open another Ambar at 1547 Seventh St. NW. The original is on 523 Eighth St. SE on Barracks Row. He also owns and operates an Ambar in Belgrade, Serbia, which is home for this Balkan restaurant concept.

Linda Roth is president of Linda Roth Associates, a public relations and marketing firm that specializes in the hospitality industry, providing creative connections through media relations, marketing initiatives, community outreach and special events. Reach her at Linda@LindaRothPR.com, lindarothpr.com or #LindaRothPR.

Jody Kurash • January 11, 2016

The December holidays are a time for indulgence, and — though it’s been villainized in recent years by the calorie police — a glass of spiked eggnog is a sure-fire way to get into the spirit. Insist on counting calories? Then pass on the fruitcake (and the trays of same-old-same-old cookies), and enjoy a creamy nip of spiced nog.

Eggnog dates back to pre-colonial times in England, where it was popular with the aristocracy. Dairy products like milk and eggs were costly and scarce — as were the alcoholic ingredients mixed with them, such as brandy, sherry and Madeira.

Eggnog and its holiday associations began after the drink crossed the pond. Dairy products were plentiful in the colonies, and rum (which was inexpensive due to the triangular trade) was used to spike it. When the Caribbean rum supply dwindled after we declared our independence, domestically produced whiskey or rum was substituted.

According to kitchen records from Mount Vernon, eggnog was a popular drink for George Washington to serve his guests. His version was not for the fainthearted; it included brandy, rum, rye whiskey and sherry.

Today, with the craft cocktail revolution, creative versions of eggnog abound. Several D.C.–area locales are offering their own distinctive takes on this holiday-season classic.

The most potent version just might be the Egg-N-Grog at Capital Hill’s Balkan restaurant, Ambar. Mixologist Rico Wisner’s version is made from a combination of Hennessy Black, Ron Zacapa, Chairman’s Reserve spiced rum, Hidalgo Oloroso sherry, spiced syrup, whole egg and milk. It will be available until Serbian Christmas (Jan. 7, if you didn’t know).

If the cold weather of December makes you shiver and crave a tropical treat, the next best thing to an island getaway is Puerto Rico’s version of the seasonal staple. From the land that birthed the piña colada comes the coquito, an eggnog-like drink constructed from rum, coconut milk, sweet condensed milk, egg yolks and vanilla. Latin hot spot Cuba Libre makes a delightful version featuring coconut rum and cinnamon with a toasted coconut rim.

Perhaps the most well-planned version can be found at Magnolia’s on King in Old Town Alexandria. Way back in August, mixologist Zachary Faden bottled eggnog using bourbon, rum and rye and mezcal. These cocktails have been bottle-conditioned for four months, which allows the booze to break down the proteins, round out the drink and provide a silky mouthfeel.

Finally, for sheer holiday indulgence, hop a train to Metro Center and visit the ever-elegant Bibiana restaurant. Bibiana’s classic eggnog with a twist sports a unique combination of Pedro Ximénez sherry, Bénédictine and Buffalo Trace bourbon. This tipple is part of the restaurant’s extravagant 25 cocktails of Christmas. Bibiana began counting down to the holiday on Nov. 30, introducing a new, seasonally inspired cocktail every evening until Dec. 24. Other festive tipples include the Fichi, made from Maker’s Mark bourbon, pureed figs, maple syrup and vanilla sugar, and the Hazelnut Old Fashioned, made from hazelnut-infused Filibuster bourbon, orange and cherry.

If you prefer to remain in your own abode, you can whip up a batch of eggnog presidential-style. In an article about the history of eggnog, Time magazine published George Washington’s recipe. Apparently the original did not specify the exact number of eggs, but Time suggested using a dozen.

George Washington’s Eggnog

1 quart cream

1 quart milk

12 tablespoons sugar

1 pint brandy

1/2 pint rye whiskey

1/2 pint Jamaica rum

1/4 pint sherry

Mix liquor first, then separate yolks and whites of 12 eggs. Add sugar to beaten yolks and mix well. Add milk and cream, slowly beating. Beat whites of eggs until stiff and fold slowly into mixture. Let set in cool place for several days. Taste frequently.