Living
In Country: Virginia’s Hotel Petersburg to Reopen Next Month
Shepherds Manor Creamery: A Whirlwind of Sheep Dairy
November 6, 2012
•Nestled in the farmlands of New Windsor, Md., Shepherds Manor Creamery is the premiere destination for sheep cheese in the state. As one of approximately 100 sheep dairy farms in the United States, Shepherds Manor produces artisan sheep cheese and soap.
Sheep dairy farmers and proprietors of Shepherds Manor Creamery, Colleen and Michael Histon, participated in this year’s Chefs Go Fresh motorcycle rally. As hosts of the first stop on the excursion, the two gave visiting chefs a private tour of their sheep milking and cheese aging facilities. The Histons ended their presentation with samples of their artisan cheeses including feta and tome for the chefs.
“It was kind of a whirlwind,” Colleen Histon said of Chefs Go Fresh. “I thought it was great to meet all the people that we met but I wish we’d had more time so that we could show people more of the facility.”
The farm was awarded with the Carroll County Department of Economic Development’s Agribusiness Award in 2011 and has gained much notoriety for their agricultural diversity. Histon said that after Chefs Go Fresh, she and her husband were able to network with many of the chefs and restaurant owners.
“I was happy for the exposure and we did try to connect with some of the people that expressed interest,” she said. “We did get a few business cards and are actually planning on trying to use that information to contact them at a later date.”
As the Histons continue to expand their sheep cheese empire, their next big cheese showcase will be at the 29th annual Maryland Wine Festival from Sept. 15 to 16. For more information on Shepherds Manor Creamery, visit shepherdsmanorcreamery.com or call (240) 388-6633 to set up a visit. ?
Riding To Buy Fresh
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In 2007, the Southern Maryland Agricultural Development Commission started the Buy Local Challenge (BLC) to highlight the economic and environmental benefits of sourcing and consuming local ingredients. “And since then,” said Maryland Governor Martin O’Malley, “it’s really taken off across our state.”
“Six years ago,” he said, “you did not see the amount of produce that was available in grocery stores that was advertised as ‘local.’ This movement, this awareness—the future is all about local economies.”
The BLC, along with the Maryland Department of Agriculture, promotes a market-driven and sustainable farming culture, where farmland preservation and environmental stewardship positively impact the quality of the air and water, and where consumers and leaders play equal parts in the development and sustainability of local agriculture. A balanced community should be full of safe, nutritious food and a clean and healthy environment.
On July 16, local Washington and Maryland chefs put their pedals to the metal to promote these initiatives—literally. In an effort to build relationships with area farmers, wine and cheese makers, and purveyors of produce and other farm-raised products, some of our favorite cooks revved up their motorcycles for a bike tour of some Maryland-based farms.
The Chefs Go Fresh tour, a joint function by the Maryland Department of Agriculture and Georgetown Media Group (i.e., yours truly), was a day of friendly chatting, sputtering engines and enlightening connections. The day began with a breakfast hosted by Robert Wiedmaier at his restaurant Brasserie Beck, full of fresh, local fare. From there, the chefs were off, as their bikes roared through downtown before breaking free in the back roads of Maryland countryside, stopping at farms for presentations by farmers.
The first stop was Shepherds Manor Creamery in New Windsor, run by husband-and-wife team Michael and Colleen Histon, who produce artisan sheep’s milk cheese. From there, Black Ankle Vineyards was just down the road. An environmentally sustainable estate vineyard, Black Ankle produces wines with complexity, depth and subtlety to rival old world styles.
The day concluded with a locally-sourced lamb roast hosted by Bryan Voltaggio, local chef darling and native Frederick, Marylander, who was a finalist on television’s “Top Chef” in 2009. His new Fredericksburg restaurant, “Family Meal,” was a fitting location to wrap up this day of camaraderie and culinary affection. Chefs and farmers sat around long tables and bars sharing heaping plates of fried green tomatoes, deviled eggs, country fried chicken, sautéed greens, baked beans and heaps of smoky, delicious lamb.
There is tremendous mutual benefit in supporting local farms, from better and more nutritious ingredients to lessening of energy consumption for food transportation. If everyone across the country embraced the Buy Local Challenge, it would bring a positive and profound impact to our farms, our communities and our planet for generations to come. It’s nice to know that our chefs agree.
Here are some highlights from the day, and the list of chefs that joined Georgetown Media Group on our culinary expedition. ? [gallery ids="129071,128973,128965,128957,128948,128939,128931,128921,128913,128904,128981,128989,129064,129056,129048,129040,129031,129023,129015,129005,128997,128895,128887,128778,128771,128765,129077,128756,129083,128747,129088,129094,128785,128793,128879,128872,128861,128850,128837,128828,128818,128809,128801,100916" nav="thumbs"]
Beat the Heat with Boats and Beaches
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For the past few weeks, being out in the sun has been downright masochistic. Stepping outside, the pelting heat was nearly suffocating. On a bicycle, it felt like being blasted by a full body blow-drier. Last Sunday, our city hit 100 degrees for the fourth consecutive day — a natural feat unsurpassed since July 1930. Across the country this year, more than 40,000 daily heat records have been broken, and after the storm that left so many of us without electricity, the heat couldn’t have come at a more inconvenient time.
Wandering around the farmers markets, our local food producers are bemoaning the heat’s effects on this season’s crops. “This is the last week for blueberries, thanks to mother nature,” said one local vendor when I bought a still tasty but admittedly heat-stricken bushel last weekend.
Thankfully, things seem to be easing up outside. This isn’t to say the rest of the summer season is going to be a cakewalk, but we can start thinking again about venturing into the sun and enjoying summer as it should be enjoyed: by the shoreline, in the water, and out at sea.
From George Washington’s crossing of the Delaware River in 1776, to the Kennedys’ iconic yachting excursions that captured in celluloid the idealism and spirit of the late post-war era, Washington, D.C. has scattered bits of its history on the water. The Potomac and Anacostia Rivers wind through our neighborhoods, their beauty and power never failing to refresh the senses. If ever you’re feeling blue, take a walk along the Mt. Vernon trail up by Roosevelt Island beside the Potomac River, watch the birds take flight, breathe the air, wrap yourself in the billowing silence and tell me if you don’t feel at least a little better.
And in the Delmarva area, there are plenty of locations for waterfront escape. The Maryland shore has charm, history and abundant seaside culture. Along the Delaware coastlines, popular beach destinations give way to serene waterfront and unforgettable excursions. The odds are, most of you have your house rentals set up. Here are some great things to do.
Delaware
Coastal Kayak
Offering sailboat rentals, guided kayak and bicycle eco-tours, Coastal Kayak allows guests to experience the bayside marshlands and wildlife from a completely new perspective.
The salt marsh tour is a fanastic addendum to any list of activities. Paddle through the salt marshes around a state wildlife refuge, the feeding grounds for many animals. You’re liable to see herons, osprey, horseshoe crabs and skimmers, among other wildlife. One of the premiere offerings is the exploration of a small sandbar where you get out of your kayak and comb the beach for a variety of beach dwellers such as fiddler crabs, starfish and clams.
Chincoteague and Assateague Islands
Chincoteague Island, just a 30-minute drive from Bethany down Route 1, is Virginia’s only resort island, and one of the more beautiful islands that salt and pepper Virginia’s eastern shore. This rustic, wild-looking beach is famous for its breathtaking and accessible wildlife, oyster beds and clam shoals, migratory birds and packs of wild horses, which often graze casually around the parking area.
Throughout the summer, crowded beaches give way to stretches of secluded shore line, marshes and forests for those willing to walk beyond the crowded entrance. As a Natural Wildlife Preserve, the Chincoteague and Assateague islands harbor plenty of inspiration for the adventurous, Thoreauvian journeyman.
Nassau Valley Vineyards
Producing a wide variety of wines, Nassau Valley is Delaware’s first and only farm winery. The self-guided tour includes a chronicle of wine’s 8,000-year history, up to the processing and production of modern day vineyards. Picnickers are welcome, and specialty tastings and wine and food pairings are available on site or off. Theater and musical groups perform during the summer months. This is an ideal stop on a rainy beach day or a midweek break from the pulsing July sun.
Maryland
The Oxford-Bellevue Ferry
The Oxford-Bellevue Ferry is also a great way to see the surrounding area of Talbot County. America’s oldest privately owned ferry, established 1683, crosses the Tred Avon River between Oxford and Bellevue, Maryland. It’s a quick trip, 7 to 10 minutes (20 round trip) but it’s a lot of fun and St. Michaels is a pleasant seven-mile bike ride or drive from the Bellevue landing. The ferry can carry cars and motorcycles. For more information visit www.OxfordFerry.com.
The Chesapeake Lighthouse Tours
These tours are a unique look at Chesapeake’s lighthouse heritage, which has assisted the passage of boats for centuries. Captain Mike Richards, who guides the tours, has over 35 years’ experience on the Chesapeake Bay and shares stories of these historic lighthouses and their surrounding areas. Half and full-day tours leave from the Bay Hundred Restaurant at Knapps Narrows Marina, through October. For more information, visit www.ChesapeakeLights.com.
The Tilghman Island Marina
The Tilghman Island Marina is a popular destination spot with transient boaters and boating clubs and groups all throughout the bay, who also offer boat rentals and various charters.
The picturesque marina overlooks the Chesapeake Bay and Nature Area. Offering a quaint ambiance in a park-like setting that caters to boating groups and guests, it’s a great place to enjoy a Chesapeake Bay sunset from the comfort and privacy of your own boat. You can also jet ski, sail, bicycle, fish and take waterway tours. Walk, ride or dinghy to all Island attractions, Inns and restaurants. For more information, visit www.TilghmanMarina.com. ?
Chefs Go Fresh: The Stops Along the Route
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With the 2nd Annual Chefs Go Fresh event on July 16, here is a closer look at some of the local country farms that will be participating.
England Acres Farm: a Pasture-Fed Welcome Mat
Do you enjoy fresh produce, locally raised animals and home-baked goods? Look no further than the England Acres Farm, in Mt. Airy in Fredrick County, Maryland. The farm, which has been used since the 1870s is owned and operated by Jeff and Judy England.
“We’re friendly,” says Judy England. “We welcome the public to come experience what we have and taste the difference in our products.”
England Acres Farm and Market raises Angus cattle, sheep and Cornish Rock X chickens. The animals are all pasture fed or are fed farm-grown forage. All the meats can be bought individually or in a sampler pack from the market.
The England Acres Farm Market and Bakery is open on Saturday and Sunday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. The store offers a selection of fresh baked goods, freshly picked seasonal produce, grass fed beef and lamb and pasture raised chickens, hens and eggs. The market also offers some friendly advice on how to cook and prepare the fresh ingredients.
The working farm welcomes people to come and experience what it’s really like on a farm, and it encourages people to buy local products. For more information or to plan your trip, visit www.EnglandAcres.com
Black Ankle
Vineyards: Award Winner in Mt. Airy
“A truly great wine comes only from a truly great vineyard,” according to Black Ankle Vineyards, a winery located in Mt. Airy, Maryland and known for its award-wining wines. With a wide selection of red-and-white wines, including Chardonnay, Terra Dulce II, Passeggiata and Crumbling Rock, it’s a winery not to miss.
“We grow all our grapes on farms and harvest once a year. We’re able to come up with new wines every year,” said Sarah O’Herron, owner and wine maker at Black Ankle Vineyards. Its most popular selection of wine is Crumbling Rock, with a blend of traditional grapes. It won the Maryland Governor’s Cup for two years in a row. “It’s the wine that made us famous,” O’Herron said.
Have an urge to taste some of the selections? The Black Ankle Vineyards Tasting Room is open Friday, noon to 9 p.m.; Saturday, noon to 6 p.m.; Sunday, noon to 5 p.m.; other days and times are by appointment. A selection of local cheeses is also offered to customers for something to eat alongside the wine. In addition to the sale of wines and food products, Black Ankle Vineyarsds also provides local realtors and restaurants with selections of wine. “We want people who are wine lovers and who are interested in really good wines. We want them to find us,” O’Herron said. Black Ankle Vineyards offers tours every Saturday and Sunday at 1 p.m. For more information, visit www.BlackAnkle.com. ? [gallery ids="100879,127484" nav="thumbs"]
Resorts, a Day Away
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Washington is within reach of a handful of national resort destinations—many of which have garnered international recognition. From the cool and beautiful forests stretching up and down the Appalachian Mountains, to the sun-flecked peppery beaches of the Carolinas, and the historic rivers leading to the Chesapeake Bay, there are endless opportunities for whiling the summer away. These resorts are all within a day’s drive or airplane hop of Washington, but the diversity is astonishing. If you haven’t planned your summer retreats, this will help you get started. Gather the family or significant others around the table and figure out which suit your vacationer’s palette best.
IN THE VIRGINIAS
The Greenbrier
White Sulphur Springs, West Virginia
In the small community of White Sulphur Springs, W.Va., nestled safely within the Allegheny Mountains, lies one of this country’s most longstanding and luxurious resorts. Since 1778, the Greenbrier has hosted distinguished guests from around the world, setting the standard for luxury accommodations nationwide, while continually reinventing itself. Once known by the Southern elite as the “Queen of the Watering Places,” this sprawling estate in the lush foothills of the Appalachian Mountains is perhaps one of the best-kept secrets on the East Coast.
With the very best of comfort and accommodations, spa treatments, leisure pursuits and world-class cuisine, the Greenbrier brings together all the luxuries of the world’s finest resorts with the distinct history and character of the region. There is an endless variety of cottages and suites, such as intimate single guest houses and seven-room suites, equipped with wood-burning fireplaces, private porches and patios overlooking the surrounding area. Once you settle in, the Greenbrier offers enough activities to keep guests returning with every season.
The highlight is the resort’s collection of four 18-hole signature golf courses, all of which compliment the surrounding mountainous landscape. The championship courses—the Old White TPC, the Greenbrier, the Meadows and the Snead, a private residents-only course—are designed to challenge and captivate golfers of every skill level. The resort also features a full-service clubhouse, award-winning golf shop and expert instruction by the Greenbrier Golf Academy. The resort’s 40,000-square-foot luxury spa is another signature offering, providing an elegant setting to rejuvenate your mind, body and spirit. Relax in a whirlpool bath or soak up the healing properties of the native sulphur waters. With their wealth of exclusive spa treatments, there are endless reasons to visit this award-winning spa. For more information, visit www.Greenbrier.com
The Tides Inn
Irvington, Virginia
The Chesapeake Bay is to Washingtonians what Long Island is to New Yorkers: a stone’s throw seaside destination to rusticate and rejuvenate away from the urban tumult. Bordered by the Potomac River to the north, the Rappahannock River to the south, and Chesapeake Bay to the east, the Tides Inn provides a luxury resort setting that is quintessentially Delmarvan.
Located in historic Irvington, Va., history buffs will appreciate the opportunity to experience our nation’s heritage first-hand at the Tides. From the struggle for independence to the steamboat era, from 18th-century gardens to 21st-century artisans, the area surrounding the Tides Inn hotel in Virginia is full of historic excitement.
The Tides offers a “Girlfriend Getaway,” for friends to enjoy a variety of activities, such as touring the local wine trail, relaxing at the spa and enjoying the Tides Inn’s cuisine and cocktails.
For outdoor enthusiasts, the resort and spa destination includes the beautiful new Tides Marina, the 18-hole Golden Eagle Golf Course, as well as sailing opportunities, where you can set sail around Carters Creek and the Rappahannock River. The on-site sailing school at the Tides offers a four-day basic keelboat course that leads to sailing certification. There are also shorter sailing classes for various interests, and everyone in the family can find a Chesapeake Bay sailing course created just for them. For more information, visit www.TidesInn.com.
WAY DOWN IN DIXIE
The Sanderling
Outer Banks, North Carolina
For over half a century the Outer Banks in North Carolina have been perhaps the premier Washingtonian beach destination. Within walking distance of the unparalleled sand, surf and tranquil waters of the sound, the Sanderling Resort gives you the best of hospitality and Carolina character. Of course, staying at the Sanderling has other benefits as well, including access to the Pine Island Racquet and Fitness Club and the Currituck Golf Club.
This is a great place to take the family. Among many beachside attractions, the 3,400-acre Pine Island Audubon Sanctuary, adjacent to the Sanderling, is a favorite resting spot of countless regional beachside bird families (When summer ends in a few months, dozens of species of migrating geese and ducks descend on Currituck Sound, providing spectacular autumn bird watching). The Sanderling’s Eco-Center offers kayak tours of the preserve, and walking paths through the sanctuary are open to the public year-round. Couple that with beachfront access, great local seafood and the fresh salty air, and you can keep you and your family happy for weeks. For more information, visit www.TheSanderling.com.
The Sanctuary at Kiawah Island Golf Resort
Kiawah Island, South Carolina
This is an easy weekend getaway from Washington. Truly one of America’s most luxurious resorts, it is located along the pristine shores of Kiawah Island, South Carolina.
This exquisite hotel is only 30 minutes from downtown Charleston, which captures the spirit, history and charm of southern hospitality and some of the best southern comfort food there is—barbeque shrimp and grits are not to be missed.
With its 255 gracious guestrooms and suites, the Sanctuary at Kiawah Island Golf Resort is perhaps the finest oceanfront hotel built on the East Coast in the past 20 years. Each spacious room features luxurious five fixture baths, large marble showers, dual vanities, private water closets, shuttered bathroom windows and ocean view balconies. A private concierge level offers exclusive, personalized services and private elevator access, while the concierge club features unmatched culinary offerings throughout the day. Families and adults can enjoy two oceanfront pools.
Kiawah Island is a golfer’s paradise with five competitively designed master golf courses. In fact, three of Kiawah Island’s golf courses ranked on Golf Digest’s list of “America’s Top 75 Resort Courses,” and Conde Nast Traveler listed the resort among the top “50 Golf Resorts Worldwide.” For more information, visit www.KiawahResort.com.
DUE NORTH
Lake Placid Lodge
Lake Placid, New York
In 1882, a German family built themselves a rustic camp from which they could enjoy the dramatic view of Whiteface Mountain in the Adirondacks. This remained a private residence until 1946, when the property was sold and reopened as a hotel.
Today, the front hall is a classic Adirondack interior, with a welcoming stone fireplace, furniture crafted in the distinctive regional Adirondack style and a stairwell filled by a towering birch tree. There are thirteen rooms and seventeen luxurious cabins at the water’s edge, and the woods, water and sun enfold the Lodge.
The main lodge is full of spaces that are just as cozy and appealing. Artisans, the formal dining room, offer a seasonal New American menu. Wood-paneled Maggie’s Pub, with its fireplace and tables set by the windows, is just the place for a first-rate burger and a pint of the locally brewed Ubu Ale.
Whether you prefer to curl up in front of a fireplace and take on the challenge of a handcrafted Stave puzzle or decide to hike one of the ancient Adirondack trails, the choices are many. And warmer weather brings endless adventures. Take a tour of Lake Placid aboard the 35-foot mahogany Hacker-Craft, go swimming or fishing, kayaking or canoeing or captain your own boat. Lake Placid is one of the cleanest spring-fed lakes in New York. Lake Placid Lodge is an iconic American resort. For more information, visit www.LakePlacidLodge.com.?
The Grapes of Jefferson’s Dreams
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When he planted a vineyard at his home in Monticello some 200 years ago, it was Thomas Jefferson’s dream that vineyards and wines from his native state would one day stand with the great wines of the Old World. Jefferson’s vision remained unfulfilled in his lifetime, but in the 21st century his dream has become reality. Virginia wine country, long developing under the radar of connoisseurs and enthusiasts, is now an international libation destination.
The nation’s fifth largest wine producer and seventh largest producer of wine grapes, Virginia wine sales reached a record high last year with nearly half a million cases sold, an increase of more than 11 percent over the previous year. Wine contributes almost $350 million to the state on an annual basis, with around one
million annual visitors to the state now including local wineries among their travel destinations. Wine Enthusiast magazine even named Virginia as one of the ten best international wine destinations this year, alongside regions in California, New Zealand, Chile, Spain and France.
And while the success might seem like so much glitz, it is really a testament to the decades of sweat, blood and tears that Virginia winemakers have poured into the land. Flying under the radar of the international wine community, these devoted servants of the grape explored varietals best suited to the area—which they could only do through trial and error during the summer growing season (and grape vines take years to mature)—experimenting with almost every available grape, all while developing farming and harvesting patterns to meet with the rigorous needs of the region’s effusive, inconsistent climate.
Fittingly named, the Monticello Viticultural Area (AVA), surrounding Jefferson’s old home, is recognized as the most prominent of Virginia’s winegrowing regions, with over 20 area wineries producing fine wines of international acclaim. It’s impossible to explore them all in one visit, but here’s the scoop on two top Charlottesville wineries, perfect to grease the skids and wet the palettes of viticultural locavores, as well as to showcase the best wines the region has to offer.
Pollak Vineyards
2011 was a tough harvest in the Monticello AVA. It had already been a very hot growing season, which can hurt wines in reaching optimal acidity. Then, just as the first whites were ready to be picked, cloudy weather set in and lingered right into the red wine harvest window, putting the grapes at risk for sour rot, powdery mildew, stunted growth and low sugar levels.
But none of this stopped David and Margo Pollak, owners of Pollak Vineyards, from producing an internationally award-winning vintage. “That’s one of the great things about the Pollaks,” says Nick Dovel, general manager of the vineyard. “They’d rather make a small batch of good quality wine than a lot of mediocre wine. We sorted the grapes last year by individual cluster, de-stemmed them and then sorted each individual berry.”
David and Margo first began making wine in Napa Valley in the 1970s when they founded Bouchaine Vineyards, planting and producing Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The vineyard took off and they sold it in the 80s, but the vintner’s itch soon returned. With their new venture, they wanted to explore a new terrain in the winemaking world. Virginia, they decided, was the Napa of the East Coast.
The couple spent five years combing the state’s farmland, looking for a plot with the right sun exposure and optimal drainage for grape vines. They found their current Charlottesville plot in 2001and started planting fruit in 2003.
“We don’t buy or outsource any fruit for our wine,” says Dovel. “We grow all our own grapes, and even sell to some of our neighbors, which we’re very proud of. It’s rare to find a winery that does all estate grown wines. What you taste in our wines is our true terroir— what Mother Nature has to offer our specific
property.”
Today, Pollak is well known for their Viogniers and Petit Verdots. Their red wines are unfined and unfiltered, with a lot of finesse but a still-present power. “If you put France and California together,” says Dovel, “that’s where we sit: big fruit with great structure—and the character of Virginia’s unique climate makes it awesome.”
Dovel isn’t just talking big; judging by the vineyard’s accolades, he’s just telling it like it is. In 2011, he submitted a selection of wines to the Riverside International Wine Competition. “At first I wasn’t going to submit any because of this sort of East Coast wine stigma the industry tends to have—they tend to think less of us and rate us low. But when I read that competition was a blind tasting, I suddenly really wanted to do it.”
He sent six wines to the competition. All of them medaled.
Their Petit Verdot won unanimous gold medals and received the Chairman’s Choice Award, the highest honor of the competition. “The competition named us the best small winery in the world because of that Petit Verdot,” says Dovel. “They all wanted to know if we bought the fruit from some vineyard in California. They couldn’t believe all the grapes we used were estate grown—everyone was just blown away.”
King Family Vineyards
In the 2010 documentary “Vintage: The Winemaker’s Year,” which explored the rapid growth of Virginia’s wine industry, King Family Vineyards was featured in a segment where a late spring frost was threatening a vineyard full of budded vines. “That was a scary experience,” says Will Rucker, King Family’s tasting room manager. “So what we did last year was light bales of hay on fire surrounding the vineyard, and then had helicopters hover over the vineyard at night to circulate the warm air.”
To Rucker, this annual challenge is the beauty of making wine in Virginia. “With Virginia wine, you’re almost left guessing with each vintage. But that’s why it’s fun—as a producer and as a drinker.
“Honestly, vintage variation is the coolest thing out here,” agrees Dovel over at Pollak. “You can go buy your bottle of California Chardonnay anytime, and it’s the same from year to year. But in Virginia, you make a
Cabernet Franc one year and it will be full-bodied like a Bordeaux, and the next year it might be a light, elegant Loire Valley-type.”
“We have to adjust our farming practices on a day-to-day basis,” says Rucker. Heavy rain, for instance, makes lighter vintages because you end up with more water in the fruit. Matthieu Finot, the winemaker at King Family, has to craft the wines into something elegant each year. “It’s an exciting and dynamic process. A real and serious challenge, but in the best possible way.”
Finot tends toward making Old World European style wines at King Family. “He has experience in Italy, France, South Africa, many of the greatest winemaking regions in the world. And one of the most exciting things
about Virginia for him is how effusive the climate is. With the weather so all over the place, there’s a real humanity—a human element—to the wine he makes, because it forces him to alter his practices so frequently. The wine that comes out has his fingerprints all over it.”
David and Ellen King came to the area from Houston, Texas, in 1996 with the aspiration of becoming a premium fruit grower for the state’s then bourgeoning wine industry. It didn’t take long for them to turn into winemakers themselves. The tasting room and winery was opened in 2002 (a ten-year anniversary is on the horizon), and they have since opened an event space, “To host all those winery weddings that everyone wants to have,” says Rucker with a chuckle.
King Family’s 2010 Meritage, the current vintage of their hallmark wine, is big and chewy and dark, different from previous years, but wildly tasty. Getting into summer, returning customers are looking forward to their seasonal Crosé, a unique rosé made of Merlot grapes. “It’s a big hit when we host polo matches on Sundays,” says Rucker. “A great wine to drink cold, with a Sauvignon Blanc-esque grapefruit nose. I call it the perfect poolside wine—and it’s great when paired with anything off the grill.”
“We’ve got people traveling to this area for the purpose of tasting wine,” Rucker says, “which is enormous headway from this time five years ago. Our vineyards are winning international awards and we’re seeing the attitudes of the international community constantly changing.”
Write it off as a growing pain, but the years of dismissal and neglect are no more for Virginia wines. And as its epicenter, the Monticello AVA is the most significant place for a wine buff to sample and explore the dynamic array that Virginia’s vines has to offer.
For more information on the wines and sites of Pollak Vineyards and King Family Vineyards, visit PollakVineyards.com, or KingFamilyVineyards.com. To read up on the greater Monticello AVA and explore its full family of vineyards, visit MonticelloWineTrail.com. ? [gallery ids="102448,121135" nav="thumbs"]
New England Island Love Affairs: Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket
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When people talk about a luxurious New England summer getaway, there seem to be two categories: Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket and everything else. The secluded Massachusetts islands — nestled just south of Cape Cod in the Atlantic — have long been known as intimate havens. You don’t just visit these islands, you become members of their tight-knit communities for the length of your stay. They are attractions without gimmicks, crowds or frills: there are no big malls, no towering music venues, no amusement parks or other kitschy tourist traps. They are simply the most comfortable, well-maintained and genuine areas to rusticate and soak in the deliriously pleasant calm of summer. Nothing much changes, as proponents like to say, but people keep coming back.
This isn’t to say you will have trouble finding something to do on either island. Throughout the summer, both have their share of wine, food and art festivals, boutique shopping, history and culture. But they are also home to some of the region’s most beautiful bike rides, sailing opportunities and sprawling, uncrowded shorelines. This is where you take your family to experience life together, to cook at home or eat at a small world-class restaurant, sip wine as the sun goes down on the west end of the island, and wake up early to see it rise on the east end. And it’s easy to get across the islands: Martha’s Vineyard is about 20 miles long from tip to tip (and 87 square miles in its entirety), and Nantucket is only 14 (less than 50 square miles). Here’s a taste of what each has to offer.
Martha’s Vineyard
Martha’s Vineyard is comprised of a few rural towns: Aquinnah, Chilmark, West Tisbury, and the more populous towns of Edgartown, Oak Bluffs and Vineyard Haven. Whether you’re looking for the natural beauties of pristine beaches, clay cliffs and bird watching, historical and cultural attractions, exquisite dining, an array of outdoor activities or the many artists, handcrafts and boutiques, “The Vineyard” has it all.
Festivals and Markets
If shopping for rare finds are your druthers, a great place to start is the Chilmark Flea Market, hosted by the Chilmark Community Church every summer from late June through early September. The oldest outdoor venue on the island, the market has evolved into a quirky shopper’s heaven. Quality hand-made items from antique sellers, artists, glassblowers, and jewelers mingle among imports, fine china and more—and many of the craftsmen are waiting on their folding chairs and in the backs of their trucks to speak with you. In what will be this market’s 45th year, the Flea, as it’s called among locals and returning visitors, holds within its lively stalls everything from vintage clothing and wire statues to mounted animal heads and stained glass windows.
At the Summer Vineyard Artisans Festival, the Historic Grange Hall in West Tisbury opens for a weekly juried art show and fair. You can meet with more than 70 artisans, from weavers, potters and quilters, to jewelers, painters and furniture makers, many of whom hold demonstrations.
The Featherstone Center for the Arts hosts a Flea and Arts Market throughout the summer, offering great selections for those on the island’s south side, along with classes, summer camps for children and events. This summer, camps range from painting and photography to silkscreen and printmaking. Special events include garden tea parties, the Featherstone’s annual gala, the third annual Potter’s Bowl and the Art of Chocolate Festival.
While on the topic of festivals, the OB Harbor Festival at Oaks Bluff on June 16 brings together over local and national 40 vendors for one of the island’s most popular events. Local artists, craftsmen and antique dealers, as well as non-profit organizations offering a tempting array of baked goods, raffles and information about their causes, will be on hand. Live music on the deck at Nancy’s featuring Martha’s Vineyard’s favorite bands, and the Midsummer Faerie Festival will entertain all ages with mystical storytelling and Celtic musicians. As always, an abundance of native seafood and gourmet treats await the festive gathering at this year’s Harbor Festival.
Boating and Beaching
Perhaps you’re more of the seagoing sort. Well, you’re still in luck. Martha’s Vineyard has some of the most intimate and beautiful oceanic activities around. Moonrise Kayak, for instance, shows you Martha’s Vineyard in a whole new light: moonlight. In celebration of the full moons of summer, Moonrise Kayak takes you nighttime tours of the coast. With a guide, you will kayak out as the sun sets and the moon rises, absorbing the wonder and romance of the region.
Kayak Quest lets you enjoy the Vineyard’s Sengekontacket Pond at your own pace on a self-guided tour, taking you on a journey with a series of clues to help you uncover the story of the pond’s people, places and wildlife. Your quest ends after you find the hidden quest box. Good luck!
Boat charters are also a popular island activity. Take a joyride for the afternoon or set sail to explore the New England coast—either way, there is an endless selection of friendly and experienced guides ready to take you out on the waters.
Nantucket
More than just a sister island to Martha’s Vineyard, Nantucket is a premier destination in its own right. “The Gray Lady,” one of the island’s nicknames, was once wealthy with the profits from the whaling industry; it is rich again with luxury real estate and outsiders from New York, D.C. and elsewhere. There are more intimate leisure activities than you could think about doing—golfing, tennis, kayaking, bird watching, fishing, historic architecture, museums, art galleries and events—and enough space to get away with doing nothing at all, if that suits you best. First of all, it holds within its small borders a web of gorgeous—and flat—biking paths. As the island is only 14 miles long by 3.5 miles wide, a cyclist can bike around the entire island in a day, while stopping along the way to enjoy the scenery, culture and cuisine.
D.C.’s connection to the two islands is legendary, whether you are mentioning the Laythams, the Rubensteins or many others. During the summer, one just might bump into someone from the D.C. neighborhood. On Nantucket’s east side, Siasconset, the Summer Home with its cottages, houses and Beachside Bistro boasts the best oceanfront weddings. One of its other restaurants is by chef Todd English, Figs at 29 Fair, near Main Street. Locally, we have the likes of Smith Point, Jettie’s and Surfside restaurants from Bo Blair, who named them after spots in Nantucket.
Fishing
Nantucket is a small-time fisherman’s mecca. Its coast is home to the entire array of famous New England seafood delicacies—all of which are also available cooked and ready to eat at any of the first-class restaurants on the island. From striped bass and blue fish, to mussels, scallops, oysters and blue claw crabs, you could catch enough to make an enviable clam chowder, bouillabaisse, or just host an old fashioned clambake for your new neighbors. Just make sure to check with the Nantucket’s Marine and Coastal Resources Department for information on potential fishing restrictions.
Not Your Average Library
While a public library might not seem like the most exciting place to visit on your summer vacation, the Nantucket Atheneum is not your average library. This unique library plays a vital role in the community, providing a wide variety of cultural and educational services and events, as well as a fine picking of books, videos and audiobooks.
Among many events this summer, the Atheneum will be hosting a dance festival (July 24 – 28), featuring stars from the dance world brought together by artistic director Benjamin Millepied, a noted choreographer and former New York City Ballet principal dancer. The festival includes many free outreach events for adults and children and culminates with two evening performances on July 27 and July 28, which feature a dance program of classical and contemporary ballet.
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Newport, Rhode Island: A Fresh Sense of History
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The city is known on the whole as a New England summer resort. It integrates the most desirable qualities of any leisure travel destination, with enough options and activities to accommodate any budget. While only a half-day’s drive or aerial puddle jump away from the Washington area, Newport, Rhode Island has a spirit all its own. Founded in 1638, it is enveloped in a rich and much-beloved history—and as our Georgetown House Tour approaches, it might be worth noting that Newport also has one of the highest concentrations of colonial homes in the nation. Further similar to Georgetown, Newport is very much a contemporary urban haven, proud of its history but residing in the cultural here-and-now.
Not too crowded, not too hot, and as friendly as a summer evening is long, Newport, Rhode Island is just the ticket for a Washingtonian weekend getaway or an enriching weeklong stay. On top of the usual, year-round attractions the city has to offer, there is an array of summer events and activities on the horizon, far enough away to plan ahead but close enough to start getting excited.
Newport Mainstays
Sailing and Boating
There are myriad choices when it comes to enjoying the famed waters off Newport. From canoes and kayak rentals, to charters, excursions, harbor tours, and even sailing school for the adventurous at heart, you can enjoy the rippling tide of Narragansett Bay in nearly any capacity.
Kayaking and canoeing offers visitors the opportunity to pursue the waters, coastlines and hidden waterways of Newport intimately and at their own pace. Explore the islands and wildlife of Bluebell Cove, watch ospreys dive for fish along the Westport River, take in the waterfront homes of historic Bristol, or see the yachts of Newport Harbor.
If you want to rent a boat or charter, the horizons open even further. Dozens of destinations are easy cruises in the Bay’s protected waters—only a couple of gallons of fuel if you’re motoring, and gentle breezes if you’re hoisting the main and fore. Want to be where all the urban action is? Stay in Newport Harbor. Itching for a day of fun boutiques? Sail west over to Wickford Village. Need some peace and quiet? Drop anchor for a day or two off Jamestown. Want to visit the America’s Cup Hall of Fame? Tie a bowline to the docks in Bristol Harbor.
International Tennis Hall of Fame
If you revere the racket, this is the place for you. The Tennis Hall of Fame, at the Newport Casino, was founded in 1954 by tennis innovator James Van Alen (among other major contributions to the game, Alen invented the standard tiebreaker system used in regulation tennis matches today). It was host the first U.S. National Championships in 1881. In 1997, the complex and museum were restored to their original splendor with the completion of a five-year, $7.5 million renovation and endowment project.
The Museum’s galleries chronicle the rich history of tennis through interactive exhibits and videos, as well as showcasing popular memorabilia from historic champions and the superstars of today. Dramatically set in the original clubrooms of the Casino, the style, class and good nature of this gentleman’s sport comes vibrantly to life at the museum.
Rosecliff Mansion: the “Great Gatsby” House
There are endless mansion and historic home tours to take on in your visit to Newport. A standout among them, however, is Rosecliff Mansion. Commissioned by Nevada silver heiress Theresa Fair Oelrichs in 1899, architect Stanford White modeled Rosecliff after the Grand Trianon, the garden retreat at Versailles. After the house was completed in 1902, at a reported cost of $2.5 million, Mrs. Oelrichs hosted extravagant parties in its grand and cavernous hall, including a fairy tale dinner and a party featuring famed magician Harry Houdini.
Rosecliff is now preserved through the generosity of its last private owners, who gave the house, its furnishings, and an endowment in 1971 to the Preservation Society of Newport County, who maintains many of the areas tour-friendly historic mansion properties. The house has something of a Hollywood resume, having played the lavish home to Robert Redford’s Jay Gatsby in the 1974 film, as well as “True Lies,” Steven Spielberg’s “Amistad” and most recently “27 Dresses” starring Katherine Heigl.
The mansion is also a host to the annual Newport Mansions Food & Wine Festival, where guests can eat and drink like true 1920s flappers. For more information on that, keep reading!
Upcoming Festivals and Events
The Great Chowder Cook-Off
June 2
On Saturday, June 2, 2012, the Great Chowder Cook-Off kicks off summer in New England. Be a part of the original, largest, and longest running chowder championship in America, and try a wide spread from national to regional competitors. Festival-goers will taste-test a myriad of traditional and exotic chowders from kitchens across the country, then vote for the best in three categories: clam, seafood and creative. For more information visit NewportWaterfrontEvents.com.
Newport Antiques Show
July 27 – 29
Celebrating its sixth year, the Newport Antiques Show has become a seminal event for antique lovers across the country. Over forty of the industry’s finest dealers will showcase the best antiques the world has to offer to over 2,500 visitors at the Stephen P. Cabot and Archer Harman Ice Center at St. George’s School in Middletown. The show’s 2012 Loan Exhibit will highlight fine and decorative arts from the New Bedford Whaling Museum. The exhibit will include New Bedford art such as scrimshaw and Pairpoint Glass along with work from artists such as William Bradford. For more information visit NewportAntiquesShow.com
Newport Jazz Festival
Aug. 3 – 5
Founded in 1954, the Newport Jazz Festival was the first annual jazz festival in America. It has been host to numerous legendary performances and historic moments since its inception, including performances by Louis Armstrong, Ella Fitzgerald, Thelonious Monk, John Coltrane Miles Davis, and a career-reviving performance by Duke Ellington in 1958. Referred to as the grandfather of all jazz festivals, the event draws thousands of people from all over the world. Highlight performances this year include Bill Frisell playing the John Lennon songbook, vocalist Diane Reeves, and legendary drummer Jack DeJohnette’s 70th birthday performance. For more information visit NewportJazzFest.net
Newport International Boat Show
Sept. 13 – 16
The 42nd Annual Newport International Boat Show will feature new sailboats and powerboats, and thousands of products and services from exhibitors worldwide, showcasing the latest innovations and trends in seafaring technology. Boating has never been more exciting; whether it’s an evening harbor cruise, a fun-filled day of fishing or an extended cruise on a yacht with all the luxuries you can imagine. Come discover the many new products, programs and opportunities on the oceanic horizon. For more information visit NewportBoatShow.com
Newport Mansions Food & Wine Festival
Sept. 21 – 23
This festival, devoted to the joys of gastronomy, has quickly become one of the most anticipated food and wine events in the country. Rosecliff mansion and Marble House will host more than 100 of the world’s finest vintners and more than two dozen of New England’s finest restaurants and caterers for a three-day epicurean adventure. This year, world-renowned French chef Jacques Pépin, along with his daughter, Claudine—who has partnered with him on three of his James Beard Award-winning public television programs—will host a cooking demonstration and book signing. Form more information visit www.NewportMansions.org
Amazing Getaways: Bali, Barcelona & Belize
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BALI, PERFECTED
It’s an experience like no other. Exclusive, and luxurious, Viceroy Bali is a unique resort poised on a ridge overlooking the verdant Valley of the Kings in central Bali. Located seven minutes from central Ubud, this tropical paradise feels like another world, with 25 Bali-styled luxury pool villas and other amenities, including a complete gymnasium and wellness-centered spa, award winning restaurant, peerless service, and stunning surroundings. It’s the perfect place for the discerning traveler to relax and renew in tranquility, for celebrants to gather for a wedding or reunion, or for executives to retreat to plan for the future.
Every aspect of the Viceroy Bali experience is infused with the unique and exotic. First there are the accommodations. Surrounded by the sights and sounds of the flora and fauna of Bali, each has its own open-air living area, complete with private pool, gorgeous decorating, and amenities galore. There are even two villas that can be connected to form one large one. Included in the resort’s rates are the á la carte breakfast, Wireless Internet connection, daily restocking of the mini bar with free non-alcoholic drinks, complimentary Illy coffee for the espresso machine, 24-hour room service, evening turn down service, and all the other luxurious touches one would expect at an exceptional destination resort.
The amenities are very special as well. For those guests who choose to venture forth from their private tropical paradises, relaxing under the thatched roof of Viceroy Bar and dining at award-winning CasCades Restaurant are unforgettable experiences. The views of the Petanu River Gorge and the serenity of the reflection ponds are spectacular, matched in their excellence only by the restaurant’s delightful Asian-influenced French cuisine, superior wine offerings, and attentive service. Such decadence may be offset, should a guest so choose, by a visit to the air-conditioned gymnasium. Private yoga and Balinese dance classes are offered too, and the infinity-edge pool is well sized for serious swimmers, while the romantic balé overlooking it provides a resting place for the less ambitious. Lembah Spa combines western and Balinese techniques to provide wellness treatments in a tranquil setting that reflects the spa’s therapeutic focus. Many a guest has been known never to leave the grounds of Viceroy Bali, but the dedicated Guest Service Manager stands ready to assist those who wish an adventure small or large. Indeed, he will design the ideal itinerary to suit the inclinations of groups large or small; honeymooners or families; groups of friends or business associates. Guests appreciate the guidance, with so many magical forays on offer, from a trip to quirky and artistic Ubud on the free shuttle for some shopping or museum-going, to a bicycle ride through the rice paddies to one of the many nearby temples. Birders, cyclists, golfers, culture-lovers, botanists, and armchair anthropologists will all find something to love with Viceroy Bali as their base camp, and executives will appreciate the resort’s helicopter pad and its air conditioned, fully equipped conference room.
Website: www.viceroybali.com
THE BELLE OF BARCELONA
Like a woman of timeless beauty, Barcelona’s Hotel España is many things at once, chic yet historic, stylish but quirky, private yet accessible, sophisticated while still fun and exclusive yet offering great value. A full-service, superior four-star hotel situated in the heart of Barcelona’s historic district, Hotel España offers something for everyone, from lovers to families to executives. With 82 rooms, an award-winning chef, luxurious accommodations, a fascinating architectural heritage, and welcoming management and staff, this elegant urban retreat charms all who visit.
Featuring the latest in technology, including soundproofing, the guestrooms are luxurious, comfortable and stylish. Fifty standard rooms have views of the city or a landscaped courtyard and feature a free mini-bar. The 28 deluxe rooms are comfortable and filled with light. The three executive rooms are located on the top floor and feature a private terrace overlooking the Ciutat Vella. The suite is yet larger, with a large living area and a spacious bathroom with a rain-effect and chromatherapy shower cubicle and a hydro massage bath. This hotel is complete with three dining venues. Fonda España, supervised by award-winning chef Martín Berasategui, serves simple, balanced and mouth-watering updated traditional cuisine in a Modernist dining room, originally designed and decorated by Domènech i Montaner. Bar Arnau, named after the celebrated sculptor Eusebi Arnau whose splendid alabaster fireplace is the centerpiece of the modernist-contemporary bar, serves aperitifs, cocktails, sandwiches and tapas in a relaxed setting. Alaire Ramblas Terrace-Bar, a chic, romantic destination located on the top floor of the hotel, serves cocktails and barbecue against the backdrop of city lights and great music.
Function and banqueting options abound, and there is a rooftop swimming pool, sunning terrace and business corner. For those who seek to explore or revisit their favorite Barcelona spots, the old city awaits, just beyond the threshold: the Gran Teatro del Liceo, the Gothic Quarter, and las Ramblas and el Paseo de Gracia, two of the city’s main thoroughfares. Hotel España is a delightful base camp from which to explore the “City of Counts.” Natural wonders abound as well, from the 68 municipal parks to the seven beaches. Barcelona Beach was named best urban beach in the world by National Geographic, and Discovery Channel listed it as the third best beach in the world.
Website: www.hotelespanya.com
PRIVACY, PERSONALIZED
Just imagine it. Warm azure waters stretching as far as the eye can see, palm fronds rustling in a gentle Caribbean breeze, meals prepared by a personal chef, the gentle glow of the sun rising over the reef, warm but discreet personal attention from staff overseen by a personal concierge and not another soul in sight, because this island is dedicated to one guest party at a time. Impossible, you say? Not anymore. Travelers can find it all at Royal Belize, a personal vacation hideaway. Royal Belize opened in spring 2010 and occupies an entire islet located nine miles off the coast of Belize. It is a completely private tropical island with luxurious lodgings, excellent service, great food and entertaining activities.
The pampering starts before guests even arrive, when the concierge makes arrangements for a personal chef and activities, both on and off the island, in advance. There’s the helicopter flight and the welcome cocktail. Royal Belize offers three luxurious and comfortable villa residences with spectacular views and all the extras one could desire: a number of lounging and dining areas such as the Big Palapa; custom-prepared meals and complimentary beverages; lots on on-island activities like swimming, riding the WaveRunner, and paddling a kayak; and a wide range of off-site activities which can be accessed by either boat or helicopter. Examples: a hop to the Mayan ruins at Xunantunich, a visit to Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary & Jaguar Preserve, and a cruise down nearby Sittee River past low-hanging coconuts on the way to Butterflies Spa on the beach. And the diving is to die for.
Royal Belize: a unique and unforgettable private vacation experience.
Website: www.PrivateVacationIsland.com
Polo Benefit Promises ‘Sporting’ Good Time
September 21, 2012
•The National Sporting Library’s annual Polo Weekend will be held on Sept. 22 and 23. Following Saturday’s Symposium, the Benefit Polo Match and Luncheon will be held at the Virginia International Polo Club in Upperville, Va.
Sunday’s event will begin with the gates opening at 12:30 p.m., followed by lunch at 1 p.m.; the polo match will commence at 2:30 p.m. Other entertainment will include a performance by the Washington Scottish Pipes Band and a presentation of the Piedmont Foxhounds.
For ticket and sponsorship inquiries, contact Holly Johnson at holly@webstergroupinc.com or 202-741-1294.
Founded in 1954, the NSL’s mission is to preserve, share and promote the literature, art and culture of horse and field sports. It does this through programs offered to the public that include exhibits, lectures and special events, most of which are free.
If you cannot attend the weekend, the Sporting Library will be hosting other upcoming events, such as the “Evening at the NSLM,” an open house on Oct. 18, 5:30 to 7:30 p.m. For a complete list of all events and more information, visit NSL.org.
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