Food

Nico Dodd •

For this issue?s lunch, we stayed close to home and went to Caf? Bonaparte, a Georgetown favorite that first opened its doors in 2003. On a chilly Friday afternoon, it was packed and buzzing with people dining. The caf? does not take reservations, so be prepared.

We were impressed by their well-selected wine list and personal service. We tried the full gamut of the menu, including delicious mussels, asparagus risotto, calamari, French onion soup, and, of course, crepes. From the French fries and French onion soup to the last drop of the French press, we loved Caf? Bonaparte.

Finally, we sampled three different desserts, the best of which was–the Napoleon–coinidentally the name of Cafe Bonaparte?s sister restaurant, Napoleon Bistro & Lounge in Adams Morgan. Another restaurant, Malmaison, specializing in music and art, will be opening soon at 3401 K St., NW.

*For more information on Caf? Bonaparte, call (202) 333-8830 or visit NapoleonDC.com. Caf? Bonaparte, 1522 Wisconsin Ave., NW, Washington, D.C. 20007.*

Nico Dodd • March 12, 2013

For this issue?s lunch, we visited Range, Bryan Voltaggio?s latest, in the newly renovated Chevy Chase Pavilion. Under the pavilion?s large skylight, the restaurant is lit by a lot of natural light. We were interested in how the restaurant would look at night. The interior is decorated in palatial tans with modern opalescent soft leather seating and includes a sweet shop and a cookware shop. Diners have a full view of the kitchen, and bathrooms don?t disappoint.

As for the food, our favorites were the soup, tagliatelle. Everything we ordered had lots of savory flavors. Our dessert was a fluffy combination of chocolate and caramel corn with caramel ice cream.

The contemporary, casual vibe of the restaurant gels well with the small-plate concept. Diners can choose a few items to share, or stick to a pre-fixe menu. This is no place to be stiff. You?ve got to loosen your tie, share the dish you ordered and try something your table-mate ordered. Music was curated towards modern indie rock, with tracks from Band of Horses, Bloc Party and the Pixies among those we heard during our meal. Accordingly, serving staff are uniformly dressed in Converse Chuck Taylors.

***Range is located at 5335 Wisconsin Ave., NW, Washington, D.C. 20015. Make a reservation at [www.voltrange.com](http://www.voltrange.com)***

Georgetowner •

With a new Georgetown hotel comes a new restaurant ? with a familiar theme ? steakhouse. The new luxury **Capella Hotel** on 31st Street in Georgetown will open the **Grill Room**, featuring hand-cut meats and seafood. They have hired Swedish chef **Jakob Esko**, to run the restaurant and its bar, also with its own name, the **Rye Bar**. The restaurant will be open for lunch as well as dinner. They plan to open it in April.

And speaking of Georgetown, the **Graham Georgetown**, formerly the Hotel Monticello on Thomas Jefferson Street, which never had a restaurant, will open with two restaurants. **The Alex**, on the lower level, will offer breakfast and dinner. The rooftop Observatory will serve dinner and weekend brunch. April will be busy in Georgetown, as the Graham plans to be open at that time as well.

**Sanjeev Tuli** quietly opened **Malgudi**, a southern Indian restaurant on Wisconsin Avenue in Glover Park, just below his flagship Heritage India. Their bread is made with rice. There are more vegetarian dishes. It?s spicy?but black Pepper spicy, and southern Indian drink a pungent coffee more than tea.

**Quick Hits:** Finally, a Maryland location for **Sweetgreen** — on Georgia Avenue where Living Ruff pet store used to be ? and right near Discovery headquarters, so lunch time just got better. A summer opening is planned. Near to Maryland but still in D.C. **Soupergirl** is expanding her operations ? into the space next door. That means the kitchen can expand. Address remains the same — 314 Carroll St., NW. **Bryan Voltaggio?s Lunch Box** will open at Chevy Chase Pavilion, joining his other more upscale restaurant, Range. A Q3 2013 opening is planned. **Gourmet Pizza** plans to open on 415 8th Street, SE, on Barracks Row offering customized pizzas. No delivery service. A spring opening is planned.

**Chef Update:** **Chef Ravi Narayanan** is the executive chef at Heritage Management?s new concept, **Crossroads**, at 1901 Pennsylvania Ave., NW. He will also oversee the menu at Heritage India, also opening at that location by the end of this month. Previously, Ravi served as executive chef of Relais Chateaux USA, and worked at the luxury Hotel Oberoi in New Delhi. **Jacob Hunter** is the new executive chef at **Matchbox** in Merrifield, located in the Mosaic District. He played an integral role in the opening of matchbox Food Group?s Ted?s Bulletin and DC-3. Before matchbox, Jacob was executive chef at McCormick and Schmick?s. **Bistro Vivant** in McLean named **Ed Hardy** as chef de cuisine. Most recently he was chef de cuisine in NYC for Marcus Samuelsson?s American Table Bar & Caf? in Lincoln Center. **Anthony Pilla** formerly of Seventh Hill Pizza and Acqua al 2 is now at Urbana at Hotel Palomar Dupont Circle, taking over the pizza helm.

**Greg McCarty** has been named executive chef of NoPa Kitchen + Bar, a part of Ashok Bajaj?s Knightsbridge restaurant empire. The American brasserie will be located at 800 F St., NW. McCarty worked for Jean Georges Vongerichten for six years and opened Nobu 57 in NYC. An April opening is planned. It?s a busy April.

*Linda Roth Conte is president of Linda Roth Associates, Inc. (LRA), specializing in making creative connections through media relations, marketing initiatives, community outreach and special events for the hospitality industry. Contact Linda at 703-417-2700 or [linda@lindarothpr.com](mailto:linda@lindarothpr.com) or visit her web site at [www.lindarothpr.com](http://www.lindarothpr.com)*

Jody Kurash •

Aside from being a literary genius, Ernest Hemingway is also known for his legendary drinking habits. Evidence of his fondness for the bottle can be found throughout the world.

In Havana, the El Floridita erected a statue of Hemingway at the bar where he consumed his favorite papa doble Daiquiris. The author loved the bar at the Paris Ritz so much that when they renovated it in the 1990s, they named it after him. In Key West, visitors from across the globe flock to Sloppy Joe?s bar for the annual Hemingway look-alike contest, part of the island?s Hemingway Days celebration.

Many of Hemingway?s favorite tipples make appearances in his written works. In ?The Sun Also Rises,? the main character Jake Barnes drinks a Jack Rose in Paris while waiting for Lady Brett Ashley. In ?A Farewell to Arms,? Hemingway describes martinis as ?cool and clean? and in ?Islands in the Stream,? he mentions two of original concoctions: the Green Isaac?s Special, named for the Isaac Islands in the Bahamas, and the papa doble Daiquiri.

While much has been written about Hemingway, Phil Greene, a Washington resident and founding member of the Museum of the American Cocktail, has managed to capture another side of this prolific man. Greene?s book, ?To Have and Have Another,? is a historical account and collection of drink recipes based on the writer?s life and work. Greene focuses on Hemingway?s peculiar drinking habits and written descriptions of food and drink.

Greene, who discovered Hemingway in high school, says he ?was drawn to him for his style of writing, the vivid and compelling way he described scenes, people, food and drink, so much so that you could see, feel and taste what the characters were seeing, feeling, etc.?

As far as his interest in cocktails, you could say he was born into it. Greene is a descendant of Antoine Peychaud, the New Orleans pharmacist who created Peychaud?s Bitters and is credited with inventing the Sazerac, which was declared the official cocktail of New Orleans by the Louisiana legislature in 2008.

These two interests collided while Green was in his 20s. ?I sought to learn more about beer, wine and cocktails, I naturally took notice when Hemingway wrote about them,? he says ?When I encountered a drink I?d never seen or tasted before, the Jack Rose, absinthe, the Fine a l?Eau, Chambery Cassis, etc., I wanted to know what he/his characters were drinking. As a cocktail historian, it was a natural that I?d want to dig a little deeper here.?

?And finally, all through my 20s and 30s I wanted to write like Hemingway,? Greene recounts, ? By the time I reached my 40s, I figured I might as well write about Hemingway.?

Greene?s book is filled with interesting anecdotes about Hemingway?s preferred drinks. For example, he was not a fan of sweet drinks. ?For the Daiquiri,? Greene writes, ?he didn?t want sugar in his drinks (likely because he was diabetic), so he called for just a touch of maraschino liqueur in its place, and also added grapefruit juice to the usual lime juice.

Hemingway liked his martini ice cold. Greene describes the way he ?froze the glasses, made giant ice cubes at 20 degrees below zero using metal tennis ball cans, he froze his cocktail onions so they?d help keep the drink cold.?

Most of Greene?s research was done by scouring through Hemingway?s writings, biographies and letters. He traveled to Key West to interview Hemingway?s friends and children of friends and to Boston, where the Hemingway Collection is housed within the JFK Presidential Library.

Even if you are not a Hemingway buff, this book is full of interesting tidbits that make it a delightful read. ?I?d like to think there?s something for everyone,? Green says ?biography, literature, drinks recipes, folklore, pop culture, great old photos and ads, you name it.? The book is available at local stores including Politics & Prose, Kramerbooks, Barnes & Noble, Salt & Sundry and Coco Blanca.

**Green Isaac?s Special**
-2 oz. Gin
-4 oz. green coconut water
-1 oz. lime juice
-4 drops Angostura Bitters
-Fill highball glass with ice, add all ingredients, stir, serve. Optional garnish, wedge of lime.

To learn about upcoming events with Greene, visit [www.museumoftheamericancocktail.org](http://www.museumoftheamericancocktail.org)

Georgetowner • February 13, 2013

**Rose?s** Luxury is slated to open in second quarter 2013 in D.C.?s Barracks Row. Chef-owner is Aaron Silverman, who previously worked at **McCrady?s** in Charleston, and **Aldea** and **Momofuku Noodle Bar** in New York City. It will be a fixed price menu ($46) offering something cold, something warm, pasta, veggies & stuff, meat and a separate dessert menu. The upstairs dining space will be higher (literally) at $90 per person. No rules on how many courses to order.

Ivan Iricanin, who hails from Serbia, just opened a new Balkan restaurant, **Ambar**, in the popular Barracks Row neighborhood at of Rakija, at 523 8th Street, SE. Ambar spans two floors in 3,000 square feet and has a 700 square-foot outdoor patio on the second floor. Richard Sandoval is a partner with Iricanin in Ambar (as he is with Masa 14 and El Centro D.F. on 14th Street, NW) and is helping to develop the Balkan Mediterranean-inspired menu. Ambar is a Serbian name for a Balkan building for drying maize (corn). Iricanin?s hometown of Trstenik, Serbia, is known as the Land of Wine Goddesses, so the restaurant will offer imported Balkan wines and beer, as well as several types of Rakija, a fermented fruit brandy that is popular in Serbia.

Baltimore-based **Attman?s Delicatessen** has plans to open in Potomac, Md. Owner Marc Attman predicts an April opening date for the deli in the Cabin John Shopping Center on Seven Locks Road. D.C. has always been a strong market for Attman?s, as 80 percent of the deli?s catering business comes from D.C. As a Baltimore girl, I look forward to the opening of Attman?s closer to my D.C. home.

Former Shaw?s Tavern general manager Reza Akhavan has plans to open an upscale casual restaurant focused on local, seasonal ingredients at 917 5th St., NW, this March. It may or may not be called Success. A chef has not been named yet, but the food will have European and Mediterranean influ- ences. There will also be 12 taps for beer plus wine and cock- tails. The 85-seat spot (including bar seating) will have an industrial- style interior design. Further down the line, Akhavan hopes to open a roof deck.

**Chef Update:** Takeshi Nishikawa will be the new chef at **New Heights** in Woodley Park. Previously he worked at Bryan Voltaggio?s Volt in Frederick as well as **Restaurant Eve** in Old Town, Alexandria. He replaces Ron Tanaka, who will be opening his own place with Sherman Golden of Maple, called **Thally**. It will be located at 1316 9th St., NW. A spring opening is planned.

*Linda Roth Conte is president of Linda Roth Associates, Inc (LRA) Contact Linda at 703-417-2700 or linda@lindarothpr.com or visit her web site at www.lindarothpr.com*

Sara Gilgore • February 7, 2013

Restaurant Week hits D.C. Feb. 4 through Feb. 10, once again inviting food lovers to enjoy affordable three-course meals at top-notch restaurants.

This semiannual culinary celebration, presented by Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington, is known throughout the region for some great deals: prix fixe $20.13 lunches and $35.13 dinners that are generally pricey, comparably. It entices people to explore the growing restaurant scene and take advantage of fine dining experiences they otherwise might not.

More than 240 restaurants will participate this year, offering diverse cuisine from D.C.-metro area neighborhoods, including parts of Northern Virginia and Maryland. More than 20 Georgetown establishments will partake in the program, with menus representing flavors from Mexico, Italy, Spain, France and Latin America.

The Georgetown spots include:

1789 Restaursant

Bistro Francais

Bistrot Lepic & Wine Bar

Bodega Spanish Tapas & Lounge

Cafe Milano

Clyde’s of Georgetown

Farmers Fishers Bakers

Filomena Ristorante

Il Canale

La Chaumiere

M Street Bar & Grill

Morton’s The Steakhouse-Georgetown

Neyla Restaurant

Nick’s Riverside Grill

Ristorante Piccolo

Sea Catch

Thunder Burger & Bar

Tony & Joe’s Seafood Place

Unum Restaurant

A full list of member restaurants is available on the new Restaurant Week website: ramw.org/restaurantweek. RAMW President Kathy Hollinger said that the association worked hard to create a site that effectively provides potential consumers with important event information.

And do we need to add this advice? Make reservations now or as early as possible.

Gwendolyn Shearman • February 1, 2013

1789 Restaurant
Bringing together modern, local ingredients and old country charm, 1789 is offering a shortened version of their full menu, including sustainable seafood, like lobster from Rock Hill, Maryland, and dry aged beef from the Shenandoah Valley Beef Co-Op.

Bistrot Lepic
The “Grand Little” restaurant in upper Georgetown serves up classic French cuisine, with an extensive wine bar. The Valentine’s Day menu features duck, lamb, seafood, and a vegetarian option alongside a range of appetizers, with an optional cheese course. Starting at $69.95 per person.

Sea Catch Restaurant
Overlooking the Chesapeake & Ohio canal, Sea Catch provides a more casual atmosphere. They are serving up a four-course prix fixe dinner menu featuring some of their famous seafood, at $75 a person. All weekend couples can enjoy an ‘aphrodisiac starters kit,’ for $30, including two glasses of Prosecco and a dozen oysters.

Bistro Francais
Dine on classic French cuisine and homemade pastries at the award-winning Bistro Francais. Open until 3a.m. on Valentine’s Day, the award winning restaurant is offering a three course special menu all weekend long, as well as their a la carte menu.

Bourbon Steak
Just off the lobby of the Four Seasons, Bourbon Steak is a classic steak and seafood with a modern twist, all envisioned by James Beard award winner, Michael Mina. For $95 a person, Bourbon Steak offers a three-course meal that includes soup or salad, a selection of entrees and fabulous desserts.

Café Milano
A favorite of celebrities, the famed Italian restaurant will be serving their complete a la carte menu as well as a four course prix-fixe tasting menu, starting at $75 per person. Also, enter for a chance to win round trip airfare for two to Italy!

Blues Alley
If you are in the mood for a show on Valentine’s Day, check out Blues Alley’s dinner and a show package featuring Rock and Roll Hall of Fame inductee, Jerry “The Iceman” Butler. $100 per person.

Paolo’s Ristorante
Traditional Italian made California fresh, Paolo’s is known for its pizza and pasta. Featuring a three-course prefixed menu, $100 per couple, add a bottle of Stellina Prosecco or Poema Cava for just $25 more.

Neyla
A melting pot of Mediterranean foods, Neyla’s three-course prix fixe menu includes steak, lamb, sea bass, and a vegetarian option along with a starter and dessert. For $75 a person, chocolate dipped strawberries and a glass of champagne are complimentary.

Morton’s
The renowned steakhouse will be serving their full dinner menu, as well as offering a steak and lobster special for only $49.95. Also, check out their Valentine’s Day cocktail, The Red Velvet. The cocktail and steak and lobster menu are available Feb. 13-16.
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Shari Sheffield • December 14, 2012

If you have an especially good wine lover on your holiday shopping list this year, here are some luxurious wine-themed gifts to present to the discriminating wine lover this holiday season. Why not spoil them or yourself with a little bit of luxury? Cheers and Happy Holidays!

Agassi Venetian Wine Tumblers
These whimsical colorful hand blown Venetian wine glasses, a.k.a. gotos, come in a set of six and are designed by Italian artist Massimo Lunardo. The tumblers feature undulating shapes and confetti swirls making each glass unique and the set one of a kind. These are available at online at www.uncommongoods.com
Price: $330 for a set of six.

Cristofle Silver K+T Collection 2-Bottle Wine Cooler
Made for two champagne bottles or one magnum. Born out of a collaboration of chef Thomas Keller and architect Adam Tihany for the venerable French house of Cristofle. Stands 8.5 inches and silver-plated. Price: $1,700. Contact www.fxdougherty.com or www.cristofle.com; 800-834-3797.

Surcouf Steamer Trunk Bar
This croc-embossed leather steamer trunk will be the center of attention in any room. It is sure to impress your wine lover. It is made with a rosewood finish on the wood, bone drawer pulls and brass hardware. The bar features noble, sustainably sourced materials by Starbay. Available online through www.onekingslane.com
Price $3,199.

William Yoeward Lead Crystal Engraved “Camila” Wine and Champagne Glasses
Coveted crystal of William Yeoward marries English and Irish crystal tradition, modern sensibility and an antique aesthetic. The small intricate floral pattern with the vertical cuts in its “Camilla” stemware makes it one of the house’s most popular. Sizes to gift include goblets, large wine glasses and champagne flutes. Made in England. Prices for the “Camila” design start at approximately $260. Available at A Mano, 1677 Wisconsin Ave., NW — 202-298-7200. Also at Neiman Marcus stores. Visit www.neimanmarcus.com for specific store information.

Grape Crate-Curated Wine Subscription Service
D.C. native Alex Clifford, and a rotating panel of D.C. wine experts, meticulously taste and select a case (12 bottles) of wine. It is then packaged beautifully and delivered to your home. Crates are seasonal and currently include the Grape Crate, Christmas Dinner Crate and New Year’s Eve Crate. Orders for December crates mentioned close Dec. 17, 2012. If you miss them, sign up for their email list and you’ll be right in line to enjoy 2013’s offerings. Kosher Crate and the Easter Brunch Crate are planned for 2013. www.grapecrate.com Price $200 per crate.

Screaming Eagle’s Cabernet Sauvignon, 1992 (Napa Valley, California)
This wine is a powerhouse among Cabernet. This vintage is unfined, unfiltered and aged in 60-percent new oak. It was originally sold only via a mailing list. Lush dark fruit flavors like dark plumbs and cassis mingle with chocolate flavors. The 1992 vintage is cult-worthy. If the price tag is a little steep at $7,000 per bottle, just about any vintage of Screaming Eagle will delight a Cab drinker. Available at www.wine.com

A “Singular” French Burgundy
One bottle of 2008 Domaine de La Romanee-Conti Romanee-Conti. This French burgundy (Pinot Noir) comes from a producer and appellation that are among the very best in the world. Vintages of Romanee-Conti are renowned. The 2008 is no exception. Note the Oriental spice, raspberry, and rose petal aromas as well as a long finish. Coveted and sought after, a bottle of the 2008 can be yours for approximately $3,099.00 or $38,000.00 a case (if you can find one). Try: www.thegourmetgrape.com

Remember That One Time At Wine Camp?
Send your wine lover to a wine camp like Sonoma Grape Camp, Sept. 23 through 25, 2013. According to its website, “You’ll spend three blissful days picking grapes and blending your own wine with your very own hands” in Sonoma, Calif. Master winemakers will teach participants. Tours and dinning in a Michelin Star restaurant round out your stay. Contact Sonoma Grape Camp at 707-522-5864 to reserve. For more information, visit www.sonomagrapecamp.com Price: $2,000 per person. [gallery ids="102575,119935,119914,119921,119929,119940,119952,119946" nav="thumbs"]