Food

Jordan Wright • November 3, 2011

On June 24, bracing spirits and sublime hors d’oeuvres enlivened a steamy night at Georgetown’s Puro Café. Stunning Euro stylistas in tiny shorts teetered on four-inch heels while mixing with chic Georgetowners for the opening of the new all-white trellised patio. It was easy to keep our cool under a draped pavilion replete with comfy lounges and twinkling lights while sipping “Copper Fox Bayou Cooler,” created and served by Alembic’s chief mixologist, Jon Arroyo. The soothing summer punch recipe, given to me by Arroyo, consists of Wasmund’s Single Malt Whisky, agave sweetened iced tea, fresh lemon juice, Grand Marnier, Peychaud’s bitters and Angostura bitters. A few julep cups of this elixir and the blazing heat becomes a fleeting memory.

42 Degrees Catering, which does special events around town and for Puro Café’s private parties, created heavenly savory and sweet delicacies for the evening’s guests. Here’s what Chef Frederik de Pue prepared for the guests. I wouldn’t want you to miss a bite!

Menu of Savory Treats

Carpaccio of foie gras with a remoulade of celery root and coffee liquor dressing; Hearts of palm vol-au-vent with little cilantro pesto jellies; Grilled baby octopus rolled into in a phyllo cigar with tapenade of kalamatas and pine nuts; Seared sea scallops with a minty ginger miso mustard sauce; Muscovy duck breast in a spicy mango cube with balsamic vinegar and Thai basil; Crisp Arctic char with steamed leeks with apple cider coulis and parsley chips; Maryland jumbo lump crab tempura with black truf?e soy sauce and chervil salad; Confit of rockfish filet with Creole salsa, Peruvian aji pepper and watercress cream; Queso blanco tequenos topped with avocado cream and scallions; Black pepper chicken spring rolls with rice vinegar dressing; Beef tenderloin marinated with chardonnay and soy sauce.

Sampler of Sweet Treats

Single-origin Venezuelan chocolate; Saigon caramel mousse; Chocolate caramel mousse with vanilla sponge cocoa liqueur; Mango cilantro bavarois; Goat cheese with dark chocolate mousse and fresh raspberry; Cherry wrapped in single-origin Tanzanian dark chocolate.

Maryland Jumbo Lump Crab Tempura with Black Truffle Soy Sauce and Chervil Salad

1 pound fresh jumbo lump crab meat
2 cups tempura flour
1 teaspoon curcuma (turmeric)
1/4 bunch chervil
3 tablespoons mayonnaise
2 tablespoons truffle juice
1 tablespoon soy sauce
Salt
Pepper
Frying oil

Mix mayonnaise, truffle oil and soy sauce with a pinch of ground black pepper. Depending on saltiness of soy sauce you might need to add little more salt. Add one tablespoon of chopped chervil to bring color to the sauce.

Place whole pieces of crabmeat gently on a paper towel to dry the crab, so the batter will stick.

In a separate bowl, mix tempura flour and curcuma with a little water to create a thick, smooth batter. Add several ice cubes to the mixture — the ice will cool down the batter and will create a nice crispy tempura.

Preheat frying oil to 320 degrees. Place spoonful-sized pieces of crab into the batter and then into the oil. Give them enough time to form a nice crispy exterior. Once they’re golden, remove and place on a paper towel. Serve immediately with dipping sauce on the side.

Visit Puro Café at www.purocafe.com.
For private parties, visit www.42cateringservices.com.
For cocktail catering, visit www.drinkalembic.com.

For questions or comments on this article, contact jordan@whiskandquill.com.
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Jordan Wright •

When I heard they had revamped The Jockey Club, Washington’s bastion of the old guard and sanctuary for the well-heeled, my heart sank. The power dining spot in its heyday, it was a place where gentlemen’s chauffeurs waited, purposeful young men, hoping to impress, brought their dates and fashionable ladies lunched in suits and jewels. It stood alone in cataloguing the comings and goings of elite Washington society. And though the menu rarely changed, there was comfort in the veal paillard avec foie gras and the delicate Dover sole meuniere. No culinary acrobatics here.

On a perfect spring afternoon we drove up to the porte-cochere at The Fairfax at Embassy Row. The original Jockey Club lantern stood beside the black-booted jockey, still sporting his red and white racing silks, and the etched brass plaque were in situ as we strode into the newly decorated dining room. Gone were the red and white-checked tablecloths and the dark-stained wooden booths (how they had held such charm is now inexplicable). In their place is an elegant, understated room flooded with sunlight, soft colors, suede banquettes and equine portraiture.

But the food, my dears, after all, that is why I have come.

Levi Mezick is a young chef whose modern French cuisine has thrown down the gauntlet to every French chef in this city as he displays a new dynamic for Washingtonian gastrophiles. Mezick trained under Edouard Loubet, the Provencal chef whose Domaine de Capelongue restaurant in Luberon sports two Michelin stars. He cut his teeth in the New York kitchens of Daniel Boulud at Daniel and Café Boulud, and later at Thomas Keller’s Per Se. All revel in three Michelin-starred restaurants and all are in the forefront of progressive French cuisine.

We started with a simple butternut squash soup with cinnamon croutons and cranberry coulis, nicely executed though a bit behind the season. But it was the next dish, a snapper carpaccio exquisitely articulated with rings of blood orange segments and red radishes swirling around the thinly-sliced raw fish, that foretold the glories that lay ahead.

We swooned and chirped over a glorious crab salad, a destination dish, mounted atop green apple gelee and celery root remoulade, an old French classic reinvented with a lively balance of creamy and tart. A delicious bread-crusted sea bass on basmati rice showed Indian-Asian influences with trails of coriander, tamarind and kaffir lime oil, highlighted by tender baby bok choy aswirl in an airy coconut foam.

A duo of Pineland Farms local beef — red wine-braised short rib and seared strip loin — struck a lovely chord among sunchokes and pommes dauphine, accented by a rich Bordelaise sauce fragrant with marrow bone, wine and herbs.

Sadly, desserts don’t measure up to Meznick’s triumphs. Pastry Chef Lisa Hood, who was at the Inn at Little Washington and Westend Bistro, will hopefully have more to offer on my next visit. For the present, a serviceable but plebeian chocolate-crusted Key lime cheesecake with raspberry coulis, and a Valrhona chocolate crème brulee with fresh berries will have to suffice.

It was too early in the day to tipple, but rest assured the wine list is breathtaking. Cellaring over 450 labels and vintages, it is certainly one to explore over many occasions. Mostly weighted on the French side, it ranges from Nuits-St. Georges, Pommards and Chambertins to Meursaults and Puligny-Montrachets. Yet there are also stunning brunellos and barolos and nine Chateaux d’Yquem to quibble over.

This “new” Jockey Club is as alluring as a first kiss. Just as impressive as ever, it has returned with a fresh cachet, a winning new chef and a dining room to match the restrained elegance of its cuisine.

For questions or comments, contact jordan@whiskandquill.com.
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Georgetowner • November 2, 2011

When was the last time you had punch at a party? Was it an enjoyable experience? Dan Searing posed these two questions during a recent event sponsored by the Museum of the American Cocktail at the Passenger bar in October. Searing, a partner in the intimate Room 11 lounge in Columbia Heights, hosted the event, which featured delectable drink samples from his new book, “The Punch Bowl – 75 Recipes Spanning Four Centuries of Wanton Revelry.”

Many attendees, recalling a less than-spectacular cup of punch, snickered at Searing’s opening queries. But by the end of the evening, there was little doubt that everyone appreciated his carefully crafted concoctions.

While the history of punch dates back centuries, it’s recent incantations have caused many to associate it with a strong mixture of cheap booze served at college parties or a sugary-sweet refreshment they sipped on at their class reunions or a baby shower. Searing decidedly altered those memories with his sophisticated and freshly-made libations.

Punch dates back hundreds of years when it was made by the English in India. The name punch most likely came for the Hindustani word “panch,” meaning five. Ancient punches were forged from five ingredients: traditionally tea, lemon, sugar, water and arrack, an Asian spirit distilled from palm sap.
According to Searing’s book, sailors plying the waters of the Atlantic became particularly fond of punch and it found its way from India to pubs in England and North America, and eventually into people’s homes. During the era of triangular trade, rum became commonly used in punches.
As the trend grew, elaborate punch bowls became fashionable and the design and material of the bowl became status symbols for their owners.

Right now, cocktails are undergoing a fantastic renaissance, and punch is following closely behind. Searing proved that a glass of punch could be as distinctive and tasteful as a finely forged cocktail. While many punches in Searing’s collection are historical in nature, the book also features 25 contemporary creations from some of today’s top mixologists.

One of the of the classic recipes included is Fish House Punch, which Searing describes as “A concoction shrouded in secrecy (and ongoing disagreement about its exact ingredients). “According to Searing, “this grand recipe comes from the Schuylkill Fishing Company, one of America’s oldest men’s clubs, originally founded in 1732. Prominent figures in American history, including George Washington, have enjoyed a glass or two of Fish House Punch at the famous club (which still exists today, though no longer in Schuylkill county.”

Fish House Punch has a strong citrus tang up front followed by rich and layered flavor stemming from two types of rum. While its bright sunny taste would be refreshing on a warm day, the full-bodied and savory attributes from the cognac and brown sugar would make this an enjoyable tipple on a cool autumn evening.

Ingredients to make Fish House punch may be purchased at Dixie Liquor at 3429 M St. in Georgetown. Searing’s book ““The Punch Bowl – 75 Recipes Spanning Four Centuries of Wanton Revelry,” is available online and at Room 11.

Fish House Punch – Circa 1732
15 to 20 servings

4 cups freshly squeezed lime juice (about 32 limes)
2 cups freshly squeezed lemon juice (about 12 lemons)
1 cup dark brown sugar
1 cup Appleton’s Estate Reserve dark rum
2 cups Flor de Cana Extra Dry 4 Year Old white rum
1 cup Pierre Ferrand Cognac
1 block of ice

Pour the lemon and lime juices into a large punch bowl. Add the brown sugar, and gently stir until dissolved. Slowly add the dark and light rums and the brandy, stirring constantly. Slowly ease the block of ice into the punch bowl.  Put the punch bowl into the refrigerator, and chill for 3 hours. Stir the punch every few hours to help the flavors blend.  When ready to serve, remove the bowl from the refrigerator and, if need be, add more ice.

Georgetowner •

Hank’s Oyster Bar & Lounge at 1624 Q Street NW has doubled in size with both inside and outside dining as well as a private upstairs room that can accommodate up to 24 guests. Architect Eric Gronning transformed the space into a hip neighborhood oasis. For those into creative cocktail menus, that has expanded too as chef/owner Jamie Leeds hired a beverage director, Dana Mosbarger, and a mixologist, Megan Coyle. If you appreciate great limoncello (as I do), Megan created two types of delicious, authentic house-made limoncello.

Ch-ch-ch-changes:

Michael Sternberg re-acquired Harry’s Tap Room in Clarendon and plans to re-open it as Market Tavern later this month … Härth at Hilton McLean Tysons Corner just opened their new 52-seat outdoor patio complete with fire pits and fall cocktails to warm guests up inside and out … Ballston’s Willow Restaurant has expanded with a new bakery and casual bistro (lower price points) inside. Instead of opening a new restaurant, chefs/owners and wife/husband, Tracy O’Grady and Brian Wolken expanded within their existing space. The bistro’s small plates menu offers a variety of vegetarian options. The new “Kate at Willow” allows Kate Jansen to stretch her pastry chef creativity, which is a bonus for us all. The Ritz-Carlton, Georgetown has changed Degrees Lounge into Degrees Bistro, a French-inspired bistro with banquette seating for 46, serving breakfast, lunch, dinner and casual bar food. This new dining space was made necessary by their conversion of Fahrenheit restaurant into an event space.

He’s not just the master of fine dining French restaurants. Michel Richard plans to open a restaurant focused on meatballs in Penn Quarter at 626 E St. NW. Not just meatballs, but meatballs to be ordered with pasta, salad or sandwiches at prices up to $10. Slated to open in November, it will be called Meatballs, which is also the name of one of my favorite Bill Murray movies.

Chef & GM Update:

Joe Sluger has been named the new general manager for The Melting Pot in Gaithersburg. The new chef de cuisine at Watershed by Todd Gray is Godofredi Vaquerano, who has spent 11 years working with Todd Gray and held the same position at Equinox. Todd named Karen Nichols the executive chef at Equinox – a first in the restaurant’s history. Karen served as sous-chef at Gramercy Tavern in New York City.

Openings Update:

Cafe Deluxe, now operated by Clover Restaurant Group (CRG), will open in the RIO Center in Gaithersburg in mid-November, serving American brasserie fare. This will be its fourth location, with others in Tysons Corner, Bethesda, and Cleveland Park in D.C. CRG also plans to open its second Tortilla Coast at 15th and P Streets, NW in Logan Circle in mid-December. The new location will vary from its Tex-Mex sister restaurant on Capitol Hill and offer authentic Mexican fare … PAUL USA, the bakery that opened its first D.C. location at 801 Pennsylvania, NW has recently opened its second location on Wisconsin Avenue near M Street, NW… Wagamama, which has been expected to open in Penn Quarter for a while now, is now shooting for a spring 2012 opening in the space on 7th St, NW formerly occupied by Olsson’s Books … The second Founding Farmers farm-to-table-themed restaurant is slated to open in early November at 12505 Park Potomac Ave. in Potomac, Md. It will be overseen by corporate chef Joe Goetze, executive chef Rob Ross and pastry chef Courtney Goldian.

Quick Hits:

Mike Cordero, owner of Caribbean Breeze, Malibu Grill and Aqua Vida in Old Town plans to open Bronx Pizza in early December in Clarendon. Sushiko has a combination ramen and izakaya (Japanese pub) restaurant called Daikaya, slated to open next year at 705 Sixth St., NW in Penn Quarter … Pizza CS, a pizzeria slated to open in the first half of November in Rockville (where Three Brothers Italian Restaurant used to be), will feature Neapolitan pizza. Owners/operators are Ankur Rajpara and John Allen, formerly of local restaurant group, Latin Concepts. Bethesda Bagels is slated to open in the former Johnny Rockets space at 1718 Connecticut Ave. NW in north Dupont Circle by end of November. Jason Story and Carolina Gomez plan to open a charcuterie shop called Three Little Pigs in Petworth at 5111 Georgia Ave., NW by year’s end. Their plan calls for a sandwich station, retail space and charcuterie classes.

2100 Prime has opened in The Fairfax Hotel where The Jockey Club used to hold court. The new chef is Mark Timms, native of Sheffield, England, who has re-vamped the menu with lower prices and a greater focus on sustainable and local foods.

Chef/owner Patrick Bazin and his wife Julie plan to open a new authentic Mexican restaurant called Alegria, next door to their restaurant Bazin’s on Church, in Falls Church. It is slated to open in late December of 2011. The menu will showcase authentic Mexican food with a very strong connection to local growers and specialty regional suppliers. Outdoor dining on the patio will be offered as weather allows. The name Alegria (which means happiness) was chosen as a result of a Facebook page contest to name the new restaurant. The winner won dinner for eight on opening night for their winning submission.

Attention chefs:

MasterChef Season Three Open Calls are taking place. You will be given a few minutes to plate your dish at the given casting location, but there will not be a kitchen to cook or warm it up so come prepared. Visit MasterChefCasting.com. The event takes place Nov. 12 at Trinity Washington University from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Georgetowner • October 5, 2011

Jamie Stachowski and his son, Josef, are taking over Griffin Market in Georgetown to open what Jamie calls “a rustic Hansel & Gretel house of beef,” featuring salamis and sausages as well as sandwiches (hand-cut pastrami – I’m there), beef, pork, and more exotic items like duck pate, fois gras, confit; prepared items like turkey for Thanksgiving, short ribs and meatballs. They plan to be up and running by November.

The Capital Hilton at 16th and K Streets, NW, will open its restaurant,North Gate Grill, in November. It will open serving breakfast and lunch, before dinner service is added to the dining program. The name, North Gate Grill, refers to its location down the street from the north gate of the White House. The chef is Daniel Murray, formerly of Renaissance Cleveland. But before that, he worked here in D.C. at Blackie’s.

Ray’s the Steaks and Ray’s Hell Burger owner Michael Landrum has opened the latest restaurant in his Ray’s empire: Ray’s to the Third, selling steak frites 13 different ways. It’s only open for dinner, with plans for lunch service in the future, located at 1650 Wilson Blvd in the Rosslyn/Courthouse area of Arlington.

Richard Pawlowski, owner/operator of numerous Cosi and Qdoba Mexican Grill locations in the metro area, is opening America’s first outpost of London-based YO!Sushi in D.C. inside Union Station in 2012. The U.K. eatery is known for its conveyor-belt style of sushi service, also known as a Japanese “kaiten” sushi bar, as the sushi rolls, sashimi and Asian salads and dishes are color-coded as the belt moves past. Pawlowski has teamed up with his good friend, Darren Wightman, who will serve as operating partner for YO!Sushi. Wightman was formerly the executive chef for YO!Sushi in the U.K. He also worked for London-based Ping Pong Dim Sum as executive chef.

Quick Hits

BGR: The Burger Joint plans to open before year’s end in Gaithersburg’s Rio Center as well as in the Cascades in Sterling, Va. Also slated to open at Washingtonian Center: Nando’s Peri Peri and Café Deluxe. Al Forno, an Italian trattoria will open this fall at 3201 New Mexico Ave., NW, in the former Balducci’s space. The restaurant will feature a wood-burning oven for Neapolitan pizza, and outdoor dining, just like at its neighbor, Chef Geoff’s. New York-based Boqueria plans to open in Dupont Circle this fall, their first location outside of New York. They offer Barcelona-inspired tapas. Filter Coffeehouse plans to open its second location in Foggy Bottom near the World Bank at 19th and I Streets, NW. The plan is for it to be open before year’s end.

EatWell DC who brought us Logan Tavern, Grillfish, Commissary and The Heights, will open another Logan Circle eatery, The Pig at 1320 14th St., NW, featuring – what else? – pork. They will source foods from their own farm, EatWell Natural Farm in La Plata, Md., and use locally raised pigs. They will also offer craft cocktails, American beers and wines from eco-conscious producers as well as small batch bourbons. A second quarter 2012 opening is planned.

Relying mostly on the money he has made through his technology business, Steve Acup is opening Log Inn at Lucketts at Route 15 and Spinks Ferry Road. Although his plans call for a March 2012 opening, he has set up a mobile trailer with a commercial kitchen to give the neighbors a taste of what to expect at Log Inn. The restaurant will serve pizza, pasta, ribs, Italian beef sandwiches and cheesecakes. Acup is developing the recipes but hiring people to cook and execute the concept for the up to 125-seat restaurant.

Chef Drew Trautmann, formerly of Mendocino Grille & Wine Bar in Georgetown, and Jawad Saadaoui, of Redwood in Bethesda, plan to open District Kitchen this month in the space where Jandara used to be at 2606 Connecticut Ave., NW, in Woodley Park. The 75-seat space will offer American food, similar to Woodberry Kitchen (re: rustic) in Baltimore. Drew’s sous chef is Daniel Velasco, whom he worked with at Mendocino Grille.

Town Hall restaurant, 2218 Wisconsin Ave, NW in Glover Park will be moving a block north into the old Blue Ridge space at 2340 Wisconsin Ave., NW. Eli Hengst and Jared Rager, owners of both places, negotiated a deal that also allows Town Hall to assume Blue Ridge’s liquor license. Their former space now also comes with its own liquor license, a very attractive amenity these days. Town Hall plans to be open in their new space by Thanksgiving.

The Georgetown ANC approved a liquor license application for Malmaison, a restaurant slated to open at the corner of 34th and K Streets, NW. The owners also own and operate Cafe Bonaparte at Wisconsin Avenue and P Street, NW. The new dessert cafe’s name can translate into “naughty house” or “ill-fated domain” but is actually a reference to Napoleon’s Château de Malmaison.

Chef Update

Dennis Marron is the new executive chef at Poste Moderne Brasserie, adjacent to Kimpton’s Monaco Hotel near the Verizon Center. He comes from Kimpton’s Old Town property, the Grille at Morrison House and Jackson 20. Mark Timms has been named executive chef at 2100 Prime, the restaurant in The Fairfax Hotel that used to be the Jockey Club.

Openings Update

Passion Food Hospitality will open Burger, Tap & Shake before it opens District Commons at 2200 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, at Washington Circle in Foggy Bottom, which is sprouting foodservice options each month. District Commons will feature 20 American beers on tap. It will also be one of the few places in the area open for breakfast. Both should be open before the fourth quarter of 2011… The folks who own Tryst in Adams Morgan plan to open a taqueria at Lamont & 11 Street, NW. The working name is Margot’s Chair. If the construction gods allow, a January 2012 opening is planned. … Enzo Fargione’s Elisir on 11th Street, NW, in Penn Quarter plans to be open in October 2011 … The Hamilton, brought to you by Clyde’s Restaurant group in the former Borders space near Old Ebbitt Grill, will have three bars upstairs and two bars downstairs, and plans to be open before year’s end. Roti Mediterranean Grill plans to open on F Street, NW, the end of this month, and at Union Station, in first quarter of 2012.

Linda Roth Conte is president of Linda Roth Associates, Inc. (LRA), specializing in making creative connections through media relations, marketing initiatives, community outreach and special events for the hospitality industry. Contact Linda at 703-417-2700 or linda@lindarothpr.com or visit her web site at www.lindarothpr.com

Robert Devaney • September 13, 2011

It is a walk that is also a hit. While the Washington Nationals took care of the Philadelphia Phillies this past weekend, their ball park was taking care of hungry and thirsty baseball fans. And while around the stadium there are food spots aplenty, one space stands out: the Miller Lite Scoreboard Walk with its Miller Lite Party Nights.

The Miller Lite Scoreboard Walk, located on the mezzanine level of the stadium with its own escalator to the left of the centerfield gates behind the main scoreboard, is fast becoming a meeting hot spot as its walking area and restaurant space gives baseball fans an elevated view of the field – and a place to see and be seen.

During the Miller Lite Party Nights – Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays – fans can buy a Scoreboard Pavilion seat for $20 ($22 for prime games) and get a drink voucher for the Miller Lite Scoreboard Walk Bar. Live entertainment starts two-and-a-half hours before the start of each game. Five-dollar happy-hour beer specials are available two-and-a-half hours before the first pitch at the Miller Lite Scoreboard Walk Bar for all remaining home games this season.

In fact, one of a group of fans enjoyed the food and space so much last week, they stayed put and sat in the lounge chairs and at the high tables for most of the game.

With approximately 15,000 square feet of open space, it is easy to lounge in the new chairs, listen to pregame music and partake of burgers and shakes from Shake Shack, Union Square Hospitality Group’s most popular joint, along with Danny Meyer’s other offerings, Blue Smoke, El Verano Taquería and Box Frites. You can hang at the Walk and watch the new HDTV screen behind the scoreboard and never a moment of the action on the field. Baseball, hot dogs, burgers, real pit barbeque, tacos, Belgian fries and beer and wine – and shakes and custards. No strikeout here.

Nationals Park is the third sports venue with the Union Square eateries; the other two are the New York Mets’ Citi Field and the Saratoga Racing Course.

Here are some fun green facts about Miller Lite Scoreboard Walk that the Nationals are proud of. Building on the ballpark’s environmentally-friendly design, the enhanced Miller Lite Scoreboard Walk incorporates sustainable elements which include the following: indigenous plants and trees, which require less water and maintenance while also improving air quality; all the under plantings are herbs, which attract butterflies and will give off an herbal scent when in bloom from May to November; all plantings were installed with composted materials, while the trees were grown from intercropping.

Unique to the refreshed area are the 14 shade sails suspended by turnbuckles covering the space. The sails were designed and provided by Tenshon specifically for the Nationals. They will reduce ambient
temperature up to 20 degrees and provide protection of up to 93.7 percent of UV rays, protecting fans from excessive heat and sun exposure. Each sail measures 16 feet by 10 feet and is made of fully recyclable HDPE architectural shade fabric.

Georgetowner • September 7, 2011

By Miss Dixie
Last week on a perfect summer night, an annual event for a select group of music fans was celebrated in D.C. Parrotheads flocked to suburban Virginia for Jimmy Buffet’s annual tour and marked the event by downing margaritas in droves. While I am not a Buffet fan by any means, I am truly a margarita lover.

No other musician is so closely associated with a cocktail than Buffet and the margarita, after his continually-played “Margaritaville” tune hit the airwaves in 1977. Buffet’s ode to his island escape played a huge role in elevating the margarita to the number one tequila cocktail in the U.S. Its popularity in the states has surpassed its prominence in Mexico, where the Paloma is the preferred tipple.

Today, Buffet rakes in millions peddling pre-mixed bottled drinks and serving margaritas to fans in his vast of chain of theme-restaurants.

Unfortunately for the margarita, its place in the sun has greatly altered a drink that was once delightful and refreshing. These days, it is enjoyed by most in a ready-mixed, preprocessed or machine-dispensed form that vaguely resembles its origins.

As Buffet strummed his signature diddy last week, mullet-haired, Hawaiian-shirt wearing fans sang along holding foot-high Slurpee-like drinks housed in plastic guitar-shaped glasses purported by concessionaires to be frozen margaritas.

The original margarita is timeless mixture of tequila, orange liqueur (or triple sec) and lime juice. It is a textbook example of David Embury’s “Roll Your Own” theory that drinks are made up of three components – a liquor base, (tequila) a sweetener, (triple sec) and a sour (lime juice). Embury put forth this theory in 1948 book, “The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks.” Other cocktails that follow this formula include the daiquiri, whiskey sour and the sidecar.

With a recipe this simple, it’s hard to understand how the margarita ventured so far from it roots. For starters, instead of picking up a detergent-sized bottle of margarita mix, invest in an inexpensive lime squeezer and half dozen of limes. If you don’t want to be hassled by squeezing fresh fruit on the spot, make a batch ahead and refrigerate. It will make a world of difference.

While cheap varieties of triple sec abound, I suggest upping the ante. Many bartenders use Cointreau, a French liqueur, or Grand Mariner, a Cognac distilled with orange. My personal recommendation is Patron Citronage, a high-end triple sec made by one of the most respected tequila makers in the world.

Your choice of tequila also plays a big role. Tequila is a distilled spirit made from the blue agave plant. While some tequilas are 100 percent agave, those labeled “mixto” are made with a minimum of 51 percent with other sugars making up the remainder.

While many mixologists prefer silver or un-aged tequila for their mixability in cocktails, I prefer margaritas forged from a reposado tequila, which is aged in a barrel for up to a year. Slightly aged tequila provides an extra layer of flavor and complexity.

As for garnishes, the time-honored margarita should be served on the rocks (my apologies to the frozen drink lovers) and in a glass rimmed with salt. The pinch of salt brightens the fresh, sweet and sour flavor and adds a bit of twang.

Follow these simple steps and you can enjoy a simply sublime cocktail that has become an American summer tradition. The choice of background music is up to you.

Margarita

2 oz. 100-percent agave tequila

1 oz. triple sec, Citronage, Cointreau or Grand Marnier

1 oz. freshly squeezed lime juice

Salt for garnish
 

Georgetowner •

Chef Francesco Ricchi is moving his namesake Italian restaurant, Cesco, to a larger location in Bethesda. Cesco Trattoria will occupy the former McCormick and Schmick’s location at 7401 Woodmont Ave. This new, large pizza and pasta restaurant (10,000 square feet) will feature a roomy neighborhood bar accompanied by a big bar. It is slated to open in mid-October.

The Smoke & Barrel is the name of the new upstairs beer bar at Asylum, a vegetarian (and vegan) restaurant on 18th Street, NW in the Petworth section of D.C. John Andrade and partners also own Meridian Pint, so there’s the connection. The new name reflects the highlights of the place: barbecue, beer and bourbon (what, no bacon?!) . Yum.

Mintwood Place is slated to open this fall on Columbia Road, N.W., in Adams Morgan where the yogurt shop underneath Perry’s used to be. Saied Ayoubi owns both Perry’s and Mintwood Place. Chef will be Cedric Maupillier, whose impressive resume includes Maestro, Central by Michel Richard and Citronelle. He was also part of the opening team for Medium Rare in Cleveland Park. The chef plans to source food and beverage ingredients locally and to complement the green build-out, much of the wood used was from an Amish barn in Pennsylvania. It will be open for breakfast (house-made croissants!), lunch and dinner. There are 124 seats inside and 24 on the patio.

White House staffers, your options for lunch are increasing. New-York-based Chop’t plans to open at 1730 Pennsylvania Ave., N.W. Illinois-based gourmet sandwich chain Jimmy Johns plans to open nearby at 1717 Pennsylvania Ave., N.W., in September. They also plan to open another Jimmy Johns at 14th and L Streets N.W., later this fall.

Spike Mendelsohn’s Good Stuff Eatery plans to expand to Crystal City on Crystal Drive, near Jaleo. It will be much larger than the Capitol Hill original spot, with the addition of a PDR (private dining room). A January opening is targeted. Based on customer comments, he, along with his sister, Micheline, is also planning a Georgetown location.

On Sept. 7, Sara Polon planned the opening of her first Soupergirl, with a dash of humor and recipes from her mother, Soupermom, aka Marilyn Polon. Soupergirl will offer homemade soups and salads that feature seasonal, fresh ingredients from local farmers, as well locally sourced breads and baked goods. It’s open for self-service lunch and dinner and carry-out. All soups, salads and baked goods are vegan and are under orthodox kosher supervision. All biodegradable scraps are deposited in the compost bins which Soupergirl shares with fellow residents of the conservation-minded building in which the store is located. Dark wood tables and light green chairs are made from 111 recycled Coke bottles. Did we mention this is in the Takoma section of D.C., or was that obvious?

Banh mi is a traditional Vietnamese sandwich of pickled vegetables and fillings such as chicken, pork and meatballs, tofu and butternut squash, in a baguette. This Vietnamese quick food has been growing in popularity in the region, care of BonMi, whose new banh mi shop will open in the former Sandella’s space at 1911 I St., N.W. A late September opening is planned.

Katsuya Fukushima has been named the new head chef at Daikaya in Chinatown (or Penn Quarter), the new ramen restaurant owned by Sushiko co-owner Daisuke Utagawa. Previously the Okinawa native worked for Jose Andres’ ThinkFoodGroup. Daikaya, is scheduled to open on 6th Street, N.W., behind the Verizon Center in the first quarter 2012.

Quick Hits:
Morton’s The Steakhouse has signed a lease to re-locate its Tysons Corner steakhouse to the former Borders location in Tysons Corne, with an opening planned for 2012. Grill Kabob will open at 33rd and M Streets, N.W., in Georgetown in the old Aditi Indian restaurant space. Panera plans to open at DCUSA on Irving Street in Columbia Heights between IHOP and Panda Express by October.

Florida-based Miller’s Ale House will open its first Washington-area location at 1500 Rockville Pike next summer. This casual dining restaurant and has 50 locations nationwide. Speaking of Rockville, look for Geoff Tracy to open one of his restaurant concepts in the Againn space in Rockville. U.K.-based Wagamama (think noodles) is planning to open in the former Olsson’s bookstore space at 418 Seventh St., N.W., in Penn Quarter in early 2012. Michael Landrum, creator of the Ray’s The Steaks empire, plans to open RYSE, an urban bakeshop/café, in the City Vista building at 1065 5th St., N.W., in Mt. Vernon Square. Roti Mediterranean Grill is slated to open at 1501 Wilson Blvd. next spring, part of 14,500 square feet formerly (and partially) occupied by Oak Street Café. Also opening in Rosslyn, Ahra Cafe & Sandwich Bar at 1100 Wilson Blvd., referred to as the twin towers. Paul Park is the owner. Duplex Diner on 18th Street, N.W., between Dupont Circle and Adams Morgan has a new look and a new owner. Founding owner Eric Hirshfield sold his lucky 13-year-old place to longtime bartender, Kevin Lee. Hikari Sushi & Sake Bar is planning to open in the Atlas District at 644 H Street, N.E. Boundary Stone is under construction in Bloomingdale section of D.C. at 116 Rhode Island Ave., N.W. You’ll know the bar is open when you see the huge neon Sylvan sign (from the old Sylvan Theater) lit out front. A variety of micro-brewed beers will be featured. Marrakesh Lounge is slated to open in Adams Morgan at 1817 Columbia Rd., N.W., where Evolve used to be. Adams Morgan is popping restaurants: The Mellow Mushroom is now shooting to open this month at the old 18th and Red location, 2436 18th St., N.W. They were at the mercy of the construction gods. Cheesetique in Virginia’s Del Ray section (not far from National Airport) plans to open in the Village at Shirlington this fall. They have also added a dining room to the back of their Del Ray store.

Chef Update:
Dan Giusti, head chef at 1789, is heading to across the Atlantic to Copenhagen to work at Noma, currently ranked as No. 1 restaurant in the world by S. Pellegrino’s World’s Top Restaurants. He will not be the head chef, but he will learn unique preparations from the ground up. The kitchen at 1789 will be manned by Brian Stickel, who previously worked there, and will soon be chef at The Clyde’s Group’s forthcoming downtown restaurant and music venue, The Hamilton. Cesare Lanfranconi is now at Lia’s, part of Geoff Tracy’s restaurant empire. Derek Brown has hired Joe Rumberger to run the kitchens at The Passenger and Columbia Rood, the twin bars on 7th Street, N.W., he owns with his brother Tom. Previously, Joe was sous chef at Restaurant Nora. John Engle has been named chef de cuisine at Robert Wiedmaier’s Brasserie Beck in downtown D.C. Previously he was sous chef at Marcel’s, then at the helm of Mussel Bar by RW in Bethesda.

Peter Pastan plans to expand his creative operations, but this time way outside of the D.C. area in California’s Central Coast, about an hour north of Santa Barbara. His latest venture is a bakery called Lompoc, located behind the Piedrasassi New Vineland Winery, which he owns a part of, so knows the area is in need of a good place to eat. Peter owns Obelisk in Dupont Circle and Two Amys (his wife being one of the two). He will make his own bread and grow his own wheat for it, as he also leases land from a wheat farmer nearby.

Linda Roth Conte is president of Linda Roth Associates, Inc. (LRA) specializing in making creative connections through media relations, marketing initiatives, community outreach and special events for the hospitality industry. Contact Linda at 703-417-2700 or linda@lindarothpr.com or visit her web site at LindaRothPR.com.

Georgetowner • August 10, 2011

The coffee shop revolution has hit a new front with the opening of the uber-cool (check out the gossip columns for who goes there in LA) The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, at the Washington Hilton. It will be their second East Coast store, the first being Miami. It is slated to open this fall in the Connecticut Avenue lobby, with easy access for commuters in the Dupont Circle corridor. The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf is a Los Angeles, California-based coffee chain, with over 750 locations in 22 countries, including Australia, Brunei, China, Egypt, India, Indonesia, Israel, South Korea, Kuwait, Malaysia, Mexico, Philippines, Qatar, Singapore, Sri Lanka United Arab Emirates and Vietnam.

It’s official: the guys who brought you Matchbox have signed a lease to open at 14th and T, NW. This will be the fourth Matchbox in the D.C. area, as they also own and operate a fifth matchbox in Palm Springs, Ca.

Chris George plans to open Memphis Barbeque in the former Mackey’s Pub space in Crystal City before summer ends. A significant facelift is in the works. George got his start with Houston’s, but has also worked at Occidental Grill and Mike’s American Grill. There will also be a large patio for dining when the weather permits.

Bistro Le Zinc has arrived just in time to take advantage of the recent release of Woody Allen’s movie, “Midnight in Paris.” The Macomb Street bistro is owned and operated by Brasserie Beck’s former manager John Warner and executive chef David Ashwell, who also cooked at Marcel’s. The name comes from the term “les zincs” referring to the pewter bar counter tops often found in French cafes. There is seating for 60 inside and 20 on the patio.

The head chef of Café Atlantico, Richard Brandenburg, has been hired by Edens & Avant, one of the big boys in real estate development, as its first director of culinary strategy. Café Atlantico closed in June to make room for America Eats Tavern, the edible collaboration between Jose Andres’ ThinkFoodGroup and the National Archives.

The retail space on the corner of the 4th and Massachusetts Ave. NW (NoMa) will be the home to a new “European Café with wine bar” to be called TEL’VEH.

Chef Bryan Voltaggio has two restaurants in the works, both slated for next year. The first will be in Frederick, Voltaggio’s hometown and the site of Volt. The working name for the 10,000-square-foot space is North Market Kitchen, and it’ll have a large dining room, a store, and exhibition kitchen with stations for pasta, raw seafood, cheese, baked goods, and rotisserie meats. Voltaggio was inspired by New York’s Eataly. Closer to D.C. will be a bistro/steakhouse hybrid in Chevy Chase Pavilion, also home to a Cheesecake Factory. Voltaggio’s 220-seat restaurant will have an open kitchen.

Speaking of Eataly, rumor is that Joe Bastianich and Mario Batali are scouting sites in D.C. to open an Eataly, which is comprised of a food hall that sells gourmet foods and several restaurants. They will need a big space.

Developer Forest City Washington announced Monday the signing of seven new restaurants anchored by a Harris Teeter grocery store at its new project called The Yards near Nationals Park. The restaurants, all slated to open in 2012, will include Potbelly, Buzz Bakery, Austin Grill Express, Kruba Thai and Sushi, BRB-Be Right Burger, Huey’s 24/7 Diner and a brew pub from Neighborhood Restaurant Group, the group behind Birch & Barley and ChurchKey.

Chef Update: ThinkFoodGroup has promoted Joe Raffa, the head chef at Oyamel, to culinary operations director for the restaurant company, overseeing the culinary operations of 11 concepts in three U.S. markets. He will be replaced at Oyamel by industry veteran John Paul Damato, formerly the head chef of Jaleo in Bethesda. Chef Richard Beckel is the culinary force behind Thompson Hospitality’s BRB: Be Right Burger, awhile he is head chef at American Tap Room. A Culinary Institute of America in NY graduate, Chef Beckel has worked at Hooked Seafood Restaurant in Sterling, Va. as well as The Caucus Room in Penn Quarter, D.C.

Managers Update: Gil Fornaris has been hired as General Manager of Ping Pong Dim Sum at the new Dupont Circle location – slated to open in September, but will take on the roll of Operations Manager for both that and the Penn Quarter location. Morton’s, The Steakhouse in Georgetown has a new Sales and Marketing Manager, Carla McCully, who hails from Hilton Dulles.

Openings Update: Shaw’s Tavern slated to open by August on Florida Ave., NW. It appears the restaurants on the Georgetown waterfront at Washington Harbour will not be open until spring 2012. Pinkberry, the tart frozen yogurt shop, plans to open in Georgetown in October. RJ Cooper’s Rogue 24 opened on July 27, which is why he could not do the Chefs Go Fresh motorcycle ride on July 26 (bummer).

Bobby Flay is planning to open another Bobby’s Burger Palace at 2121 K Street, NW on Aug. 16 with his famed crunch burgers and boozy milk shakes.

Georgetowner • July 27, 2011

Yesterday, a long row of motorcycles sat in the hot morning sun on the sidewalk framing the doors of Brasserie Beck on K Street. The Washingtonians hurrying past in skirts and suits spared little more than a glance for the tough-looking bunch in black T-shirts and leather vests who smoked cigars and shot the breeze while two photographers circled, snapping their pictures.

This motley crew was a gathering of some of D.C.’s best chefs, all of them there for the “Chefs Go Fresh” event presented by Georgetown Media Group, publishers of The Georgetowner and The Downtowner, and Loudoun County, Virginia Department of Economic Development. The event was a resurrection of the popular “Chefs on Bikes” event which was last held four years ago, and was brought back with the intention of bringing D.C. chefs closer to local farmers and produce.

The day kicked off with a breakfast at Brasserie Beck hosted by Chef Robert Wiedmaier, co-founder of the original “Chefs on Bikes” event. Before the chefs took off on their ride touring Virginia farms such as Endless Summer Harvest, Notaviva Vineyard and Stoneybrook Farm, The Georgetowner took the chance to ask these restaurant personalities a few questions.

We asked the chefs what is their favorite fresh ingredient to work with, and got a varied list of produce that is in season now and ingredients that are staples year-round. Chef Peter Russo of Chef Geoff said that his favorite ingredient is foie while Chef Clifford Wharton of Matchbox went with ginger and Weidmaier said he prefers white asparagus from Belgium. Tomatoes and potatoes were also given mention while two votes were put in for garlic.

“[There are] way too many things have to have garlic in them not to give it first billing,” said Chef Thomas Elder of Harth Restaurant.

When asked whose kitchen they were in when they weren’t in the kitchens of their respective restaurants, the chefs responded with an almost unanimous answer of their kitchens at home. Chef Vinod of Indique Restaurant said that he could be found in “my mom’s kitchen.” Elder and Chef RJ Cooper of Rogue 24 both said that Weidmaier’s kitchen was a favorite of theirs, while Weidmaier himself said that you’re most likely to find him “at home with my family in my kitchen.”

Finally, we asked each chef who their personal “Top Chef” is. Wiedmair gave a list of four: Chef Paul Stearman of Marcel’s; Chris Watson, the chef de cuisine at Brabo; Matt Hagen, the chef de cuisine at Weidmair’s Mussel Bar, and John Engle, the chef de cuisine at Weidmair’s Brasserie Beck. Vinod named Chef Mike Isabella of Graffiato, Chef Roberto Donna of Galileo III replied with Pellegrino Artusi, author of the famous Italian cookbook “La scienza in cucina e l’arte di mangiare bene,” and Cooper said that his “Top Chef” is the famous Ferran Adria. Weidmair, whose kitchen’s hot Belgian waffles and fresh scrambled eggs the chefs ate while answering these questions, was nominated at “Top Chef” several times, and Russo answered diplomatically, saying “my wife.”