A Lot to Taste: Hot Georgetown Eateries Satisfy
• June 6, 2013

It may have been hot June 1, but the Taste of Georgetown proved hotter with 25 Georgetown restaurants offering their top dishes, a “Craft Libation Pavilion,” live jazz from the lawn of Grace Church, a chef showdown — oh, and lots of lemonade and bottled water.

Hosted by the Georgetown Business Improvement District, the annual tasting festival of the town’s food and beverage establishments benefits the Georgetown Ministry Center, a non-profit which helps the homeless at Grace Church. Now in its 20th year, the Taste of Georgetown routinely shuts down Wisconsin Avenue from M down to K Street and with crowd attendance that winds up totaling, by the end of the day, 8,000 to 10,000.

With 50 signature dishes from more than 25 Georgetown dining spots, food lovers and tasters got a chance to add a few newcomers to their palate, such as Bandolero and the soon-to-open El Centro.
Participating restaurants included 1789, Baked & Wired, Bandolero, Bangkok Joe’s, Bodega Spanish Tapas & Lounge, Café Bonaparte, Clyde’s of Georgetown, Connecticut Copperthite Pie Co., Dean & DeLuca, Degrees Bistro, El Centro, Filomena Ristorante, Georgetown Cupcake, J. Paul’s, Luke’s Lobster, Morton’s The Steakhouse, Muncheez Mania, Neyla, Old Glory, Paolo’s, Ristorante Piccolo, Sea Catch Restaurant & Raw Bar, Sprinkles Cupcakes, Tackle Box, Tony & Joe’s-Nick’s Riverside Grill and Thunder Burger.

To beat the summer heat, Taste of Georgetown unveiled a new focus on craft beers at this year’s Craft Beer & Wine Pavilion. The pavilion included unique brews, such as Brooklyn Brewery’s Summer Ale, Leinenkugel’s Summer, New Belgium Brewing’s Fat Tire and Rolle Bolle and Starr Hill’s the Love.

Dishes ranged from savory tastes like Maine-style shrimp rolls from Luke’s Lobster and crab-stuffed deviled eggs with mustard barbecue sauce from Old Glory BBQ to sweet treats like Cap’N Crunch and red velvet ice cream from Sprinkles Cupcakes and Key lime cupcakes from Georgetown Cupcake and unique, gourmet creations like duck prosciutto with strawberry rhubarb from 1789 and hand-rolled beef short rib agnolotti pasta from Ristorante Piccolo.

Among the competing tastes, this year saw the first-ever “Georgetown Chef Showdown” at high noon. A la “Iron Chief,” Clyde’s executive chef Adam Newton and Bryan Yealy of Capital Restaurant Concepts headed the BID team and the Yelp team, respectively. Advisory neighborhood commissioner Bill Starrels was on Newton’s winning BID team and helped to avenge a previous cooking loss at the Capella’s Grill Room. Judges for this tasty contest were Anthony Lombardo of 1789 Restaurant and Jakob Esko of the Grill Room at the Capella Hotel.

The traditional table of judges was there to sample each dish. Taste of Georgetown emcee, 94.7 Fresh FM’s Kelly Collis, was also a food judge, along with Shaun Courtney of Georgetown Patch, Jessica Sidman of the Washington City Paper and Holley Simmons of Washington Post Express. Here are the results:

“Best use of Seasonal Ingredients” — Filomena

“Best Overall Dish” — Bandolero

“Veg-Friendly: Best Meat-free Dish” — Bandolero

“Best Way to Satiate a Sweet Tooth” — Degrees

“Carnivore’s Dream Dish” – Ristorante Piccolo

Live music from local musicians included Laissez Foure, a swingin’ jazz quartet, reggae band Mystic Warriors and the Sandra Y. Johnson Sextet.

The event was begun 20 years ago by Grace Episcopal Church on Wisconsin Avenue and its former rector David Bird and member Robert Egger, who went on to found D.C. Central Kitchen. The Georgetown BID has been involved since 2004.

“2013 marks two important milestones in Georgetown: the 25th anniversary of the Georgetown Ministry Center and the 20th year of the Taste of Georgetown,” said Gunther Stern, executive director of the GMC. “Taste of Georgetown is an instrumental fundraiser for us, having raised more than $120,000 through the years in support of our efforts to eradicate homelessness through outreach and education. We look forward to continuing this constructive partnership with Grace Episcopal Church and the Georgetown BID for many anniversaries to come.”

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The Latest DishJune 5, 2013
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Chris Watson will be chef/owner of a new Italian restaurant Ovvio, slated to open in Merrifield at the new Halstead Square apartment project (outdoor movie pavilion, fire pits, virtual yoga and golf), near Dunn Loring Metro. Most recently, Chris was chef de cuisine at BRABO by Robert Wiedmaier at the Lorien Hotel & Spa in Old Town, Alexandria. Ovvio means ?obvious? in Italian, leaning in to what Chris loves to cook. An opening is planned by end of summer.

Chef Todd English returns to DC to open a Mexican restaurant called MXDC, with partner Aziz Safi who owns Panache in DC and Tysons Corner. Juan Carlos Pavlovich will be chef de cuisine. He worked for Todd at Todd English P.U.B. in Las Vegas. MXDC will open at the former Galileo III location near 14th & F Streets, NW. Todd?s last venture in DC was Olives at the corner of 16th & K Streets, NW, where P.J. Clarke?s is now. A June opening is planned.

Chef & GM Update: Amy Brandwein is currently consulting for the Italian Embassy while she is in planning mode for her next venture. Max Sagastizado is the general manager for the new Mi Cocina restaurant in Chevy Chase. He had worked at Ruth?s Chris Steakhouse in Annapolis and Zola in DC. Billy Klein is now executive chef and partner at Pulpo in Cleveland Park. He was at Caf? Saint-Ex. Brian Nance is the chef at C.F. Folks in downtown DC, since George Vetsch left. It?s now a Loews Madison Hotel and The Federalist?s chef, Harper McClure, has taken the executive sous chef position at Marcel?s in DC?s West End. The hotel?s former Executive Chef Tim Recher is now heading the kitchens of the Army Navy Country Club.

Congratulations to Tortilla Coast, celebrating 25 years on Capitol Hill. Oh, if those walls and bar top could talk. There will be a variety of ways to mark the occasion, June 19-23, including 1988 happy hour prices and celebrity guest bartenders. It wouldn?t hurt to know a little 1988 trivia too.

Quick Hits: Smashburger is planning a mid-July opening in Dupont Circle. The owners of Cantina Mexicana have opened a second location just off of Columbia Pike in what used to be a Se?or Pan. The original store is on 23rd Street in Crystal City. In addition to opening its second location, Beau Thai is also making improvements to its original location. Alba Osteria will be the name of the Mt. Vernon Triangle restaurant to be opened by summer?s end by Hakan Ilhan and Al Dente chef, Roberto Donna. Andy Shallal of Busboys & Poets has signed a lease to open a restaurant at Takoma Central, a mixed-use development located in Takoma (DC) at Carroll and Maple Streets, NW near the border with Takoma Park, Md. It will be his fifth Busboys & Poets. Brasserie Beck?s former GM, Thor Cheston, is opening a new brewpub in the Shaw neighborhood this October. The casual restaurant and brewery called Right Proper will feature fresh, inexpensive food and ?yeast-forward? beer from head brewer Nathan Zeender.

Greg Kahn and his father, Donald opened Mama Lucia?s in Reston. Now they plan to open Gregorio?s Trattoria, where Umberto?s was in the Cabin John Shopping Center. They are aiming to open by summer?s end, and to change the name of the Reston restaurant to Gregorio?s as well (yes that would be named for the owner?s Italian alter ego).

Penn Quarter News: Shophouse, from the folks who brought us Chipotle, signed a lease at 710 7th St., NW. FroZenYo plans to open right next door at 712 7th St. Red Apron Butcher at 709 D St. NW, in Penn Quarter slated to open this month. Danny Meyer?s Shake Shack plans its second store in the Spy Museum at 800 F St., NW. Lime Fresh Mexican Grill plans to open where Potbelly?s was. Jackpot opens in the lower level at 726 7th St., NW from the folks that brought us Rocket Bar and Iron Horse. A fall opening is planned.

Dino Tapper has partnered with old friends, brothers Ari and Micah Wilder, to open Fed, a modern American restaurant on 18th St. NW in Adams Morgan. It?s a twofer: Fed Restaurant on street level and Federal Lounge on lower level. Scott Perry is the chef there, formerly of Pulpo in Cleveland Park. Dino owns Pulpo as well as Floriana, so expect a new drink menu at Pulpo, care of mixologists Ari and Micah. Federal?s ?kitchen bar? will create cocktails with seasonal ingredients from the Wilder brothers.

Openings Update: Baltimore-based Attman?s Deli now plans to open this month at Cabin John Shopping Center in Potomac, Md. Instead of renovating Celebrity Deli, Marc Attman decided to gut the space completely, hence the (worthwhile) delay. Tom Yum District also plans to open this month in Rosslyn, from the folks who brought you Bangkok Joe?s. Mussel Bar & Grille will open in Ballston at 800 N. Glebe Rd. It will be Robert Wiedmaier?s third Mussel Bar, as the first is in Bethesda and the second in Atlantic City?s Revel Hotel. Yes, there will be a motorcycle hanging above the bar in this one too. A summer opening is scheduled.

Benson Fischer, co-founder of Yummy Yogurt, has recently opened Benny?s Bar & Grill at the Cabin John Center as well with Chef Andrew LaPorta at the helm. The 240-seat space features American food with 1940s d?cor. It is not named for Benson, but for his late grandfather Benny Bortnick, a boxer, wrestler, referee and restaurateur who lived in the District.

*Linda Roth is president of Linda Roth Associates, a public & marketing firm that specializes in the hospitality industry, providing creative connections through media relations, marketing initiatives, community outreach and special events. [www.lindarothpr.com](http://www.lindarothpr.com)*

Al Fresco Dining
• May 23, 2013

Like it or not, humidity is beginning to set in. Hey, it’s Washington, D.C. Enjoy eating outside after the rainy season and before it gets steamier than mussels. Let the selections below remind you to kick back at some old haunts al fresco. Cheers.

Kafe Leopold’s
3315 M St., NW.
Beat the heat out of the sun in Cady’s Alley. Leopold’s also has great air conditioning if you choose to sit indoors. Two words: French fries.

Patisserie Poupon
1645 Wisconsin Ave., NW.
Cool, shady backyard to enjoy your iced coffee and croissant. If you’re lucky, Aspen the golden retriever puppy will be there.

Paolo’s Ristorante
1303 Wisconsin Ave., NW.
You think you know Paolo’s, but the Italian restaurant offers some great specials that you can find on their website at
www.paolosristorante.com

Martin’s Tavern
1264 Wisconsin Ave., NW.
“Did you know that JFK proposed to…” Yes, we know, we know. If some restaurants are staples in Georgetown, Billy Martin’s Tavern is a cornerstone. Many bars are good spots to watch the Nats game, but none draw the regulars like Martin’s. Great potato skins.

Booeymonger’s
3265 Prospect St., NW.
Sometimes, a Booey’s sandwich is all you need. Their deals on pitchers aren’t bad, either.

Neyla
3206 N St., NW.
Neyla is one of the many outdoor staples in Georgetown. Footsteps from Wisconsin, Ave., Neyla’s menu offers a rich blend of Mediterranean cuisines.

Cactus Cantina
330 Wisconsin Ave., NW.
An old favorite farther up Wisconsin Avenue. The baskets of chips are endless. Iced Margaritas, anyone?

THREE ROOFTOPS, THREE CHOICES

Old Glory
3139 M St., NW.
Rooftop barbecue

Surfside
2444 Wisconsin Ave., NW.
Rooftop tacos

The Graham
1075 Thomas Jefferson St., NW.
Rooftop cocktails
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Let’s Do Lunch: Capella Hotel
• May 9, 2013

The opening of new hotels means the opening of new restaurants. This week for Let’s Do Lunch, we took in the Capella’s new restaurant, the Grill Room and Rye Bar. Located in the heart of Georgetown next to the C&O Canal, it’s a great setting to: do lunch.

After reviewing the printed menu for that day, we started the course with warm baked bread and offering of baked bone marrow with parmesan and bread crumbs. I soon realized I was the only person savoring the creamy marrow for the guests at my table were too squeamish to try.

We went on to try the smoked tomato soup and the spring pea soup, both vibrant in color and savory in taste. And what goes best with soup but the famed chopped lobster salad? The generous portions of lobster meat paired well with the crunchy corn and were highlighted by the citrus dressing.
The meal could have ended there. But since we were at the Grill Room, we went on to try the dry aged strip loin and the grilled Atlantic halibut. The portions were large and were grilled to perfection. Though salt and pepper had to be added to the meal, it was satisfying and fulfilling.

The true winner of the meal was the branzino fillet. The soft buttery flesh of the fish paired so well with the sautéed potatoes and vegetables, that if the menu must change daily, I pray for this to be a staple. As the meal went on and our stomachs expanded, we took a look at the sweet case containing beautifully sculpted confectionery treats. But time had run out. Clearly, we will have to make another trip.

The Grill Room and Rye Bar

Capella Hotel

1050 31st St. NW
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Cocktail of the Month: Mezcal Part II, Creamy Cocktails
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Cream liqueurs have been popular for decades. The most well known is Irish Cream, a mixture of Irish whiskey, cream, sugar and other herbs and flavors. Bailey’s, introduced in 1974 was the first on the market. It was followed by, among others, Carolans, Brady’s and Saint Brendan’s.

Many people are fond of Amarula, with its eye-catching exotic elephant label. Amarula uses a distillate of fermented South African marula fruit, cream, black tea and spices. In the Caribbean rum creams are the rage. Jamaica likes to brag about Sangster’s original Jamaica rum cream liqueur while St. Croix produces Cruzan Rum Cream.

During my recent travels through the mezcal-crazy Mexican state of Oaxaca, I was not too surprised when I encountered a wide variety of mezcal-based cream liqueurs. You may remember from last month’s column that mezcal is a distilled alcoholic beverage made from the maguey plant, a type of agave, similar to tequila.
As I was hitching from Mazunte Beach, along the Oaxacan Riviera, to the nearest commercial town, San Augustine, I noticed the collective transport truck passed a mezcal distillery. When my local bodega in town ran out of mezcal, I decided to take a ride back to the tienda and investigate.

During a scenic ride along the coast in the back of the truck, my thirst was raging from the hot afternoon sun. As I spied the spray-painted plywood sign outside the shop, I yelled for the driver to drop me off. As I walked toward the small shack, I didn’t see anyone on the premises, except for a friendly dog.

I ventured further down the gravely path towards a table lined with bottles of various colors and flavors. My next reaction was one of disbelief. Not only was there a plethora of bottles on display, there was also a sign offering, “Pruebas Gratis” (free samples) while the owner was sound asleep in a hammock.

My first thought was, “Am I in heaven?” I briefly considered loading up my backpack and catch the next truck out of Dodge, but considering how bad that could be for international relations, I timidly helped myself to a sample glass from an open bottle and woke the man who was clearly enjoying his afternoon siesta.

The owner sleepily wandered over to the table and began to give me a half-awake lecture on the different flavors of mescal creams in his collection I started off with a coffee flavor, which tasted like a white Russian with a smoky kick. The next was a minty green-colored pistachio which did not translate well. The powerful mezcal overwhelmed the delicate pistachio. My next selection, banana, went down with a sweet easy slide, like a frozen daiquiri at a swim-up bar.

The samples kept coming. There were two coffee varieties – mocha and cappuccino. While very rich, they were also heavy on the sweet side. Coconut cream, with its nutty creamy texture, made me long for some pineapple juice. As though he could read my mind, the proprietor immediately poured me a sample of a pina colada that was decadent but strong.

A brightly colored purple mixture followed. Cloyingly sweet, grape, cream and mezcal is not a flavor combination that I wanted to continue imbibing. The lines of bottles on the table seemed to be expanding. So, I knew I was going to have to cut my tasting flight short, before I forgot my way back home. I capped off the afternoon, with a taste of Oaxaca kiss, a pink tropical fruit punch flavor, reminiscent of a TGIF’s blender drink.

I thanked the owner, who had spent the last half hour entertaining me as he wrapped my purchases — a bottle of coconut cream to be enjoyed from my hammock at my beachfront cabana, mocha as a gift for my Peruvian shaman who loves his coffee with lots of sugar and a bottle of aged mezcal for nighttime fiesta on the beach.

While mescal is often noted for its high alcohol content, mescal creams are generally low-proof, averaging between 12 and 18 percent alcohol. Their strikingly pleasing flavor make them a perfect after-dinner treat. Some folks like to enjoy them over ice cream for dessert. Mezcal creams are not widely sold in the USA, but they can be purchased online. Relíquias de Oaxaca, (www.mercadoreliquiasdeoaxaca.com) has a huge selection that includes, maracuya and guanabana (tropical Latin American fruits) pina colada and coffee varieties. [gallery ids="101285,149564" nav="thumbs"]

The Latest DishMay 8, 2013
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Fabio Trabocchi is preparing to open a new concept, **Casa Luca**, offering a more casual theme in d?cor and menu than **Fiola**. There will be red, white and sparkling wines on tap at the bar. Casa Luca replaces the **Againn** space at 1099 New York Ave., NW. Fabio is also scheduled to open **Fiola Mare** on the Georgetown waterfront at Washington Harbour.

**C-C-Changes**: Going casual is becoming more and more popular especially with that ubiquitous ?sequester? word terrorizing us in D.C. Enzo Fargione?s fine dining restaurant, **Elisir**, on 11th Street in Penn Quarter, is now the more casual **Osteria Elisir**, with d?cor and menu to match. In Georgetown, Ruth Gresser?s **Pizzeria Paradiso** has re-opened its lower level **Birreria Paradiso** after renovation to make the space more open, with communal tables for better socializing. Partners Jos? Andr?s and Rob Wilder, will expand the bar area at **Oyamel Cocina Mexicana**. Hapstak and Demetriou has designed the new bar, which will increase the restaurant by 900 square feet and add 42 more seats. Completion is slated for early May.

**Quick Hits:**
**Scion**, an Asian restaurant in Dupont Circle plans to open a second location in Silver Spring at 1200 East West Highway, featuring American as well as Asian dishes. McLean?s Courthouse: Sweet Leaf Cafe plans to open a bit closer to town at 2200 Wilson Blvd., where **Hikaru** sushi restaurant used to be. Southern California-based **BJ?s Restaurant & Brewhouse** plans a Tysons Corner opening this fall on Leesburg Pike. **Sol Mexican Grill**, a food truck, also plans to open a brick-n-mortar restaurant on H Street, NE. Popular idea, as Chupacabra, also a food truck; plans to go brick-n-mortar on H Street, NE. **Dunya** plans to open at 801 Florida Ave., NW, serving Mediterranean food and tapas. Timothy Dean plans to open **TD Burger** in the Loree Grand building in NoMa at Third and K Streets, NE, where **Zuppa Fresca** was. Compass Rose, plans to serve global foods at its Logan Circle restaurant at 1346 T St., NW. Owners Rose Previte and NPR?s David Greene plan to have it open by summer. Aaron Gordon and Chef Rock Harper (of ?Top Chef? and D.C. Central Kitchen fame) plan to open **Fat Shorty?s** in Clarendon where **Rabbit** used to be. Expect sausage, and German & Belgium beers. **Gordon Biersch Brewery Restaurant** opens its second Washington, D.C., location in early April, right around the corner from Nationals Park at 100 M Street, SE. Reza Akhavan, former general manager of **Shaw?s Tavern**, is taking over what was Fun Fair Video at 919 Fifth Street, NW to open a Mediterranean-themed organic restaurant.

Mixologist extraordinaire Derek Brown plans to open **Mockingbird Hill** on 7th Street in Shaw, with a Spanish influence that includes Iberico and Surryano hams. On the beverage front: a bar featuring sherrys. A May opening is planned. In addition to Mockingbird Hill, **Derek Brown** is teaming up with Rappahannock?s **Travis Croxton** to open **Eat the Rich**, highlighting seafood ? complemented by an oyster bar.

Philadelphia-based **La Colombe Torrefaction** (translates to ?roasting?), plans to open a coffee shop in D.C.?s Shaw neighborhood, in Blagden Alley next to **Rogue 24**. This will be their seventh cafe in the U.S., in addition to their thriving wholesale business, according to co-founders **Todd Carmichael and Jean Philippe (JP) Iberti Le Colombe coffee** will be served at Philly-native, Stephen Starr?s, Le Diplomate in Logan Circle

Let’s Do Lunch: Blue Duck Tavern
• April 24, 2013

For lunch, we ventured to the Blue Duck Tavern at the Park Hyatt at 24th and M Streets in the West End. Just east of Georgetown and Rock Creek, the neighbor- hood’s name recalls when D.C. was divided into Washington City and Old Georgetown and other locales. Today, it’s an easy walk to the West End, which was until the late 1980s a nondescript place except for Blackie’s House of Beef. Opened in 2006 by chef Brian McBride, the Blue Duck Tavern along with other restaurants and hotels reflect the upscale change in this part of Washington.

While in the ground floor of a hotel, the restaurant nevertheless works for both guest and neighbor. It contains different sections with Shaker-inspired tables and chairs, whether at the patio, near the open kitchen (sometimes noisy), along the M Street windows or at the very back, where we sat for lunch.

Executive chef Sebastien Archambault and chef de cuisine John Melfi continue Blue Duck’s culinary commitment to fresh, regionally sourced ingredients that become simple, care- fully prepared, flavorful meals for the pleasure of eye and palate. But the taste is in the details and “cannot be controlled by law,” as Thomas Jefferson reminds on the menu, which indicates whence main ingredients arrived. Our attentive waiter was helpful, succinct and likable, and it was time to order.

Chilled lobster salad frisée, avocado, blood orange honey citrus vinaigrette (from Viking Village, Maine): “tasty.” Mushroom tart, mixed greens salad, hazelnut oil vinaigrette (from Kennett Square, Penn.): “mustardy but delicious.” Jumbo lump crab cakes frisée and fennel, coral aioli (from Chesapeake Bay, Md.): “perfect, a total balance.” Wood oven roasted confit of duck leg, roasted baby vegetables, red wine apple butter (from Grimaud Farms, Calif.): “sauced up, moist, fell off the bone.” Crispy skin salmon, clam chowder, bacon, uni emulsion (from Skuna Bay, B.C.): “succulent.” Swordfish carbonara, egg, Parmesan cheese (a special that afternoon): “Unique, laced with complementary flavors.” For dessert: the highly regarded Apple Pie (“oh, man, yes”); the roasted pear, sun-dried cherries and pistachio crumble (“great”); and the honey vanilla ice cream with maple syrup (“the best … it’s a gift to be simple”). The starters averaged around $15; main dishes, $25; desserts, $9.

Get yourself and friends to the Blue Duck Tavern for straight-up American dishes that are memorable and live up to the Zagat’s compliments. Not bad for a street that once boasted a greasy-spoon dive called the Pumpkin Shell.?

Reservations for dinner and brunch recom- mended. The Blue Duck Tavern, 24 & M Streets, NW — (202) 419-6755 — BlueDuckTavern.com — BlueDuck.Tavern@Hyatt.com.
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Cocktail of the Month: Mezcal Margarita
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Anyone who has ever been to Mexico has probably been exposed to tequila. Whether it was a watered-down margarita made with low-grade liquor and sour mix at an all-inclusive resort or a glass of quality handcrafted anejo at a high-end lounge, tequila and Mexico seem to go hand–in-hand.

What many outsiders don’t know is that in addition to tequila, Mexico has another similar spirit, and that depending on what state you’re in, is often the more popular option. This sister spirit is mezcal, which is often confused with tequila.

Most people’s exposure to mezcal in the States is limited. If you’ve ever drunk a bottle of “tequila” with a worm in the bottom, you’ve tasted mezcal. The worm is a marketing gimmick which is added to exported bottles. It is rarely sold that way in Mexico.
While I was traveling through the Mexican state of Oaxaca earlier this year, I had a chance to sample many varieties of mezcal.

Both mezcal and tequila are both distilled from fermented agave juice, but the preparation of these spirits is quite different. They are dis- tilled in different regions – tequila in the state of Jalisco, while mezcal is made further south with the majority of it hailing from Oaxaca. Tequila is made from only one kind of agave –blue agave. Mezcal is made from various types.

Mezcal is produced from the heart, or the pina of the agave plant. The pinas are cooked an earthen oven for about three days. This underground baking imparts a smoky flavor. The pinas are later mashed and left to ferment. The distilled liquid is later collected and aged in barrels.

Small producers, using recipes passed down from one generation to the next, make most mezcals. Because of it hand-crafted nature, one can find a variety of flavor and complexity. In Oaxaca, many brands are never sold outside the area where they were produced.

In small villages it is not uncommon to find people distilling and selling mezcal from their homes. These are often sold in recycled tequila bottles with hand-painted labels.

While staying at the laid-back beach haven of Zipolite, I watched one day when as the “mezcal” truck made a stop on the town’s only paved street. Locals formed a queue at back of the truck with empty containers waiting and have them filled. Now, that’s the type of food truck I’d like to see in D.C.!

The taste of mezcal can differ widely as many producers add flavoring agents such as cinnamon, or slices of apple, pineapple or other tropical fruits to the mash, which impart a slight, subtle flavor. (Nowhere near the powerful taste of the mostly artificially flavored spirits popular in the U.S.) Often, at the end of the distillation, a piece of the flavoring agent is added to the bottle. For example, when I bought mezcal distilled with chobocano, the bottle contained seeds from the fruit. Another common practice is adding a piece of the agave leaf to the bottle.

The quality of mezcal also widely varies. The age of both is measured the same way. Either can be made from 100-percent agave or a majority agave mixed with other ingredients. A white or clear liquid indicates a spirit with little aging, while dark un-aged liquor with added coloring is called dorado.

Mezcal or tequila that has been aged between at least two months to a year in a barrel is called reposado while anything aged over a year is anejo. Some of the best are aged from 2-4 years.

The biggest difference between mezcal and tequila is its distinctive smoky favor, almost akin to smoky single malt scotch. Mezcal’s alcoholic proof is generally stronger than tequila, which is usually watered down to conform to the 80-proof standard in the States.
While most Mexicans prefer to drink mezcal straight, I found it to be a stimulating alterna- tive to a tequila-based margarita. The strong smokiness works as an excellent complement to the tart lime.

In the U.S., the most popular brand of mezcal is Monte Alban, but if you have access to a quality liquor store there are much better alternatives. I recommend either Sacacuento or Mezcal Del Maguey.?

MEZCAL MARGARITA
•1 1/2 oz mezcal?
•1/2 agave nectar?
•1 oz fresh lime juice
?Mix ingredients well in a cocktail shaker with ice. If desired, salt the rim of your glass. Pour contents, with ice, into glass. Garnish with lime wedge.

Smell of Change: Wines of Spring
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When spring rolls around rebirth and change is in the air. Our palates desire change too. The heavy red wines of winter we so enjoyed when the temperature dipped give way to thoughts of lighter refreshing crisp white wines.

When spring comes fragrant flowers bloom. Everything turns greener and our food menus do too. Selecting white wines to go the spring menus become a focus. There are plenty of options ranging from French style chardonnays to light pinot grigio. Properly chilled, sometimes there cannot be anything more refreshing and palate pleasing in warm weather then a glass of white wine.

Here are a few white wine recommendations to quench your thirst and please your palates and your nose this spring.

TORRENTES
Torrentes is from South America. It is a moderate acidic and smooth textured white normally. When I think of the flavors of Torrentes, I think of peach and apple flavors and a wine reminiscent of Muscat or Gewürztraminer. Some top Torrentes is produced by Bodega Colome in Argentina. Try the 2011 vintage. This wine is floral. It will remind you of a fresh cut flower bouquet. The floral note will again appear upon tasting but the dominant flavors are orange, nectarine, white peaches, and lime. This wine has a long pleasing finish. It will pair beautifully with delicate white-fleshed fishes, shrimp, lobster and foods seasoned with Asian spices.

Also try Hermanos Torrentes. Its pale green tint and its delicate fruity aroma will draw you in. It will remind you of fresh cut grass. On the palate its quince, kiwi, lime zest flavors come through. Pair with grilled Mahi Mahi, pork loin, and white pizza.

ALBARINO
Found predominantly in northwest Spain and Portugal this a lightly gold colored wine with a tinge of green. It is aromatic, high in acid and a full-bodied wine. It will pair well with heavier meat based spring and summer dishes or can be sipped alone.
Marques de Caceres Deusa Nai Albarino 2011 is a good example of Albarino. On the nose it will remind you of melon. Citrus flavors like lemon and lemon zest along with pineapple and slight minerality should please you. Finish is fairly long. Acidity is refreshing. Pair this with Serrano ham, shrimp, and grilled calamari and coconut cream pie.

SOAVE
Soave is an Italian light, dry white wine. It is lighter then Albarino but also expresses floral notes. Soave is found in the Vento region of Italy and is comprised of traditionally a blend of two grapes, garganega and trebbiano. It comes in several levels of quality. Seek out Soave Classico or a higher quality for optimal enjoyment.

Pieropan, Soave Classico La Rocca is gold- en yellow in hue. Its keenly expressive floral notes persist to the palate upon tasting this wine. This is a traditional styled Soave in that the classic honey, vanilla, almond flavors show up along the peach and apricots notes. There is a slight mineral component to its taste that adds to this rather straightforward wine’s complexity.
Also try a higher quality Soave like Gini Soave Classico La Froscà. This Soave also expresses strong but pleasant aromatics immediately. You will taste that classic almond essence along with baked or dried fruits like baked apple and candied orange peel. There’s a flash of mineral essence that cuts through the fruit flavors and provides a nice complexity as well. Pair your glasses of Soave with cream of summer corn soup, chowders, flounder, trout, and clams.

So welcome in spring with these aromatic and refreshing whites and you will transition into a new season feeling lighter without comprising flavor. Cheers! Enjoy!
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The Latest DishApril 24, 2013
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The Dublin, Ireland-based **Ri Ra** will add a new location and a new concept to its growing metropolitan D.C. base of operations. When it takes over the **Mie N Yu** space on M Street in Georgetown, it will bring not only its Irish energy, but an Irish chef who is developing a full service upscale menu, punctuating Ri Ra?s latest evolution into the restaurant scene. It will also feature a state-of-the-art whiskey bar featuring 150 different whiskeys, supplemented by an authoritative whiskey program.

***Chef Update:*** Marjorie Meek-Bradley has taken over executive chef duties at **Ripple** in Cleveland Park. She worked previously with Mike Isabella at **Graffiato** and for Thomas Keller at Per Se in NYC. Chef Greg McCarty will head the kitchen at Ashok Bajaj?s newest venture, **NOPA Kitchen & Bar** where **Zola?s** was on F Street in Penn Quarter. McCarty?s credentials include **Jean-Georges** and **Nobu Fifty Seven** in NYC. **La Tasca Spanish Tapas Bar & Restaurant** has announced the appointment of Josu Zubikarai as their new executive chef, overseeing culinary operations for all five of the company?s restaurants: Washington, D.C., Arlington and Alexandria, Va., Rockville, Md. and Baltimore. Zubikarai was the opening chef for **Taberna del Alabardero** in Washington, DC in 1989. Ashley Soto has been named executive pastry chef at the new **Farmers Fishers Bakers**. She used to work for Black Restaurant Group?s **Pearl Dive Oyster Bar**. She manages pastries offered at the new **FirstBake** bakery and coffee shop within the restaurant. Carrie Jenkins, who briefly managed the pastry program at Farmers Fishers Bakers, has been promoted to executive pastry chef for **Founding Farmers** in downtown D.C.

**Karl Graham**, of the defunct New York Avenue Beach Bar, is in partnership with **Hogo and The Passenger** owner Tom Brown (Derek?s brother) to open **The Elroy**, named for the young son in The Jetsons cartoon from yester-year, so think ?futuristic.? It will be in the ever burgeoning H Street corridor, as 1423 H St NE. Karl is a general contractor, so that should be a big advantage. A June opening is planned.

Aaron Tootill is the executive chef at **The Bench** restaurant opening at the Gaithersburg Marriott Washington Center in the Rio Washingtonian Center, this spring. The restaurant will be contemporary American. Tootill was opening chef for **Fire & Sage** at Marriott Metro Center in downtown D.C. A spring opening is planned.

**Capitol Prague Restaurant** will open where **Morso** was at M and Prospect Streets in Georgetown. It will also operate a coffee shop nearby. The cuisine is Czech and Slovak: think schnitzel and dumplings. It will offer Czech Republic beers hard to find anywhere else. An April opening is planned.